Distinct Melanogenic Response of Human Melanocytes in Mono‐culture,in Co‐Culture with Keratinocytes and in Reconstructed Epidermis,to UV Exposure

Striking differences are observed in the melanogenic response of normal human melanocytes to UVA and UVB irradiation depending on culture conditions and the presence of keratinocytes. Exposure of melanocytes co‐cultured with keratinocytes to UVB irradiation triggered, already at low doses (5 mJ/cm²), an increase in melanin synthesis whereas in melanocyte mono‐cultures, UVB doses up to 50 mJ/cm² had no melanogenic effect. Unlike UVB, UVA exposure caused the same melanogenic response in both mono‐ and co‐cultures. Removing certain keratinocyte growth factors from the co‐culture medium abolished the melanogenic response to UVB, but not to UVA exposure. When integrated into the basal layer of a reconstructed human epidermis, human melanocytes similarly reacted to UVA and UVB irradiation as in vivo by increasing their production and transfer of melanin to the neighboring keratinocytes which resulted in a noticeable tanning of the reconstructed epidermis. The presence of a dense stratum corneum, known to scatter and absorb UV light, is responsible for higher minimal UVB and UVA doses required to trigger a melanogenic response in the reconstructed epidermis compared to keratinocyte–melanocyte co‐cultures. Furthermore, an immediate tanning response was observed in the pigmented epidermis following UVA irradiation. From these results we conclude that: (i) keratinocytes play an important role in mediating UVB‐induced pigmentation, (ii) UVA‐induced pigmentation is the result of a rather direct effect on melanocytes and (iii) reconstructed pigmented epidermis is the most appropriate model to study UV‐induced pigmentation in vitro.     

The deceptive nature of UVA tanning versus the modest protective effects of UVB tanning on human skin

The relationship between human skin pigmentation and protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation is an important element underlying differences in skin carcinogenesis rates. The association between UV damage and the risk of skin cancer is clear, yet a strategic balance in exposure to UV needs to be met. Dark skin is protected from UV-induced DNA damage significantly more than light skin owing to the constitutively higher pigmentation, but an as yet unresolved and important question is what photoprotective benefit, if any, is afforded by facultative pigmentation (i.e. a tan induced by UV exposure). To address that and to compare the effects of various wavelengths of UV, we repetitively exposed human skin to suberythemal doses of UVA and/or UVB over 2 weeks after which a challenge dose of UVA and UVB was given. Although visual skin pigmentation (tanning) elicited by different UV exposure protocols was similar, the melanin content and UV-protective effects against DNA damage in UVB-tanned skin (but not in UVA-tanned skin) were significantly higher. UVA-induced tans seem to result from the photooxidation of existing melanin and its precursors with some redistribution of pigment granules, while UVB stimulates melanocytes to up-regulate melanin synthesis and increases pigmentation coverage, effects that are synergistically stimulated in UVA and UVB-exposed skin. Thus, UVA tanning contributes essentially no photoprotection, although all types of UV-induced tanning result in DNA and cellular damage, which can eventually lead to photocarcinogenesis.     

Toll‐like receptors 2 and 3 enhance melanogenesis and melanosome transport in human melanocytes

Because little is known about how the innate immune response influences skin pigmentation, we examined whether Toll‐like receptor (TLR) agonists participate in melanogenesis and melanosome transportation. We observed that TLR2/2 agonist HKLM and TLR3 agonist Poly(I:C) increased the amount of extracellular melanin from primary human epidermal melanocytes. HKLM, but not Poly(I:C), increased the melanogenic genes such as tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase. Poly(I:C) increased the expression of Rab27A, a molecule that facilitates melanosome transport to perimembranous actin filament. UVB irradiation induced Rab27A and melanosome transportation in a similar manner of Poly(I:C). SiRNA for TLR3 or Rab27A suppressed the perimembranous accumulation of Gp100‐positive vesicles in melanocytes and decreased melanin transfer to neighboring keratinocytes induced by both Poly(I:C) and UVB. These results suggest that the microenvironment in the epidermis and innate immune stimuli, such as microbiome and ultraviolet represented here by TLR2 and TLR3 agonists, could affect the melanogenesis in human melanocytes.     

Melanosome capping of keratinocytes in pigmented reconstructed epidermis--effect of ultraviolet radiation and 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine on melanogenesis

Reconstructed pigmented epidermis was established by co-seeding autologous melanocytes and keratinocytes onto a dermal substrate and culturing for up to 6 weeks at the air-liquid interface. Inspection of the tissue architecture revealed that melanocytes are regularly interspersed only in the basal layer and transfer melanosomes to the keratinocytes. We report for the first time, the in vitro formation of supranuclear melanin caps above the keratinocyte nuclei. The formation and abundance of these melanin caps could be enhanced by pigment modifiers such as ultraviolet light and 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine (IBMX). In untreated cultures, the capping was observed in the spinous layers after 6 weeks of culture, whereas after irradiation or supplementation of the culture medium with IBMX, the capping occurred already in the basal layer 2 weeks after initiation of the stimulus. In this study, we show that IBMX and ultraviolet irradiation stimulate pigmentation via different mechanisms. After supplementation of the culture medium with IBMX the increase in pigmentation was entirely due to the increase in melanocyte activity as observed by increased dendrite formation, melanin production and transport to the keratinocytes and was not due to an increase in melanocyte proliferation. In contrast, after UV irradiation, the increase in pigmentation was also accompanied with an increase in melanocyte proliferation as well as an increase in melanocyte activity. In conclusion, we describe the establishment of pigmented reconstructed epidermis with autologous keratinocytes and melanocytes that can be kept in culture for a period of at least 6 weeks. The complete program of melanogenesis occurs: melanosome synthesis, melanosome transport to keratinocytes, supranuclear capping of keratinocyte nuclei and tanning of the epidermis. This enables sustained application of pigment stimulators over a prolonged period of time and also repeated application of pigment stimulators to be studied.     

Melanosome Capping of Keratinocytes in Pigmented Reconstructed Epidermis – Effect of Ultraviolet Radiation and 3‐Isobutyl‐1‐Methyl‐Xanthine on Melanogenesis

Reconstructed pigmented epidermis was established by co‐seeding autologous melanocytes and keratinocytes onto a dermal substrate and culturing for up to 6 weeks at the air–liquid interface. Inspection of the tissue architecture revealed that melanocytes are regularly interspersed only in the basal layer and transfer melanosomes to the keratinocytes. We report for the first time, the in vitro formation of supranuclear melanin caps above the keratinocyte nuclei. The formation and abundance of these melanin caps could be enhanced by pigment modifiers such as ultraviolet light and 3‐isobutyl‐1‐methyl‐xanthine (IBMX). In untreated cultures, the capping was observed in the spinous layers after 6 weeks of culture, whereas after irradiation or supplementation of the culture medium with IBMX, the capping occurred already in the basal layer 2 weeks after initiation of the stimulus. In this study, we show that IBMX and ultraviolet irradiation stimulate pigmentation via different mechanisms. After supplementation of the culture medium with IBMX the increase in pigmentation was entirely due to the increase in melanocyte activity as observed by increased dendrite formation, melanin production and transport to the keratinocytes and was not due to an increase in melanocyte proliferation. In contrast, after UV irradiation, the increase in pigmentation was also accompanied with an increase in melanocyte proliferation as well as an increase in melanocyte activity. In conclusion, we describe the establishment of pigmented reconstructed epidermis with autologous keratinocytes and melanocytes that can be kept in culture for a period of at least 6 weeks. The complete program of melanogenesis occurs: melanosome synthesis, melanosome transport to keratinocytes, supranuclear capping of keratinocyte nuclei and tanning of the epidermis. This enables sustained application of pigment stimulators over a prolonged period of time and also repeated application of pigment stimulators to be studied.     

Reconstituted 3-dimensional human skin of various ethnic origins as an in vitro model for studies of pigmentation

Reconstituted 3-dimensional human skin equivalents containing melanocytes and keratinocytes on an artificial dermal substitute are gaining popularity for studies of skin metabolism because they exhibit morphological and growth characteristics similar to human epidermis. In this study, we show that such a pigmented epidermis model can be used to assess the regulation of pigmentation by known melanogenic compounds. In monolayers or in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-cultures, melanocyte-keratinocyte interactions are missing or are spatially limited. The commercial skin equivalents used in this study were derived from epidermal cells obtained from donors of three different ethnic origins (African- American, Asian, and Caucasian), and they reflect those distinct skin phenotypes. We used these pigmented human epidermis models to test compounds for potential effects on pigmentation in a more physiologically relevant context, which allows further characterization and validation of interesting melanogenic factors. We used known melanogenic stimulators (alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine) and inhibitors (hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, and niacinamide) and examined their effects on the production of melanin and its distribution in upper layers of the skin. Our studies indicate that commercial skin equivalents provide a convenient and cost-effective alternative to animal testing for evaluating the regulation of mammalian pigmentation by melanogenic factors and for elucidating their mechanisms of action.     

Pigmentation effects of solar-simulated radiation as compared with UVA and UVB radiation

Different wavelengths of ultraviolet (UV) radiation elicit different responses in the skin. UVA induces immediate tanning and persistent pigment darkening through oxidation of pre-existing melanin or melanogenic precursors, while UVB induces delayed tanning which takes several days or longer to develop and requires activation of melanocytes. We compared the effects of a 2-week repetitive exposure of human skin to solar-simulated radiation (SSR), UVA or UVB at doses eliciting comparable levels of visible tanning and measured levels of melanins and melanin-related metabolites. Levels of eumelanin and pheomelanin were significantly higher in the order of SSR, UVB, UVA or unexposed control skin. Levels of free 5-S-cysteinyldopa (5SCD) were elevated about 4-fold in SSR- or UVB-exposed skin compared with UVA-exposed or control skin. Levels of protein-bound form of 5SCD tended to be higher in SSR- or UVB-exposed skin than in UVA-exposed or control skin. Total levels of 5-hydroxy-6-methoxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (5H6MI2C) and 6H5MI2C were higher in SSR- than in UVB-exposed or control skin. These results show that SSR is more effective in promoting delayed tanning than UVB radiation alone, suggesting a synergistic effect of UVA radiation. Furthermore, free 5SCD may serve as a good marker of the effect of SSR and UVB.     

Ex Vivo Reconstruction of the Epidermis With Melanocytes and the Influence of UVB

To study pigmentation, we have reconstructed an epidermis ex vivo with keratinocytes and melanocytes. Keratinocytes and melanocytes were grown first in primary cocultures and separately in secondary cultures, then seeded on a dead deepidermized dermis (Pruniéras type) at a 1:20 melanocyte/keratinocyte ratio. Reconstructed epidermis were grown in a special medium enriched with calcium and fetal bovine serum lifted for 15 days at the air-liquid interface. Using histology, immunohistochemistry and electron microscopy we have shown an excellent level of differentiation of the reconstructed epidermis and a physiologic distribution of dendritic melanocytes in the basal layer capable of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes. UVB irradiation 0.15 J/cm²× 5 consecutive days increased melanocyte numbers and stimulated pigmentation as evidenced macroscopically and microscopically and at the biochemical level. Following UVB irradiation melanosome transfer was markedly increased and isolated or clumps of melanosomes were seen in the basal layers as well as in the stratum corneum. This model allows the study of the physiology of pigmentation ex vivo.     

Keratinocytes control the pheo/eumelanin ratio in cultured normal human melanocytes

The pheo/eumelanin ratio of cultured normal human melanocytes is distinct from the ratio observed for the same cells in vivo where they are in close contact with keratinocytes. To study the possible involvement of keratinocytes in the control of melanogenesis, we compared quantitatively and qualitatively the melanin production in melanocyte mono-cultures, in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-cultures and in pigmented reconstructed epidermis. Pheomelanin and eumelanin contents were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical and fluorometric detection of their specific degradation products and revealed striking differences in the presence of keratinocytes. In the absence of keratinocytes (melanocyte mono-cultures), we observed a very limited eumelanin production and a very high pheomelanin synthesis. The pheo/eumelanin ratio in mono-cultures could be slightly influenced by changing the composition of the culture medium, however, the very strong imbalance in favor of pheomelanin remained unchanged. An induction of eumelanin synthesis accompanied by an important reduction of pheomelanin formation was only observed in the presence of keratinocytes. The pheo/eumelanin ratio in melanocyte mono-culture dropped from 1043 down to about 25 in the presence of keratinocytes (co-cultures). The same observations were made when the melanocytes were integrated into a reconstructed human epidermis. Interestingly, under co-culture conditions resulting in only a partial contact between melanocytes and keratinocytes, the reduction of the pheo/eumelanin ratio were less pronounced. From these results we conclude that keratinocytes play an important role in the melanin production, affecting the melanogenic pathways.     

The role of melanocytes in protection against photooxidative stress Krystyna Stepień

Excessive exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation is an essential etiological factor for skin cancer. UV radiation, directly or indirectly through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), causes damage to DNA, proteins and lipids, and induces inflammation and immunosuppression. Cutaneous pigmentation afforded by melanocytes is the main photoprotective mechanism in human skin. In response to UV, melanocytes produce melanin pigments and transfer them to adjacent keratinocytes. This review describes: (i) the photoprotective action of melanin; (ii) the regulation of UV-induced melanogenesis and the role of p53 in this process; (iii) the relation between melanogenic and antioxidant activities in melanocytes. The possible involvement of UV-induced ROS in the stimulation of melanin synthesis is also discussed.     

Ultraviolet wavebands and melanoma initiation

In view of claims that ultraviolet radiation-emitting sunbeds are safe, or safe when they emit only longer wavelengths, research findings are reviewed here on the effects of ultraviolet wavebands A and B (UVA, 315-400 nm and UVB, 290-315 nm) on mutagenesis and carcinogenesis in skin, with particular reference to melanocytes and melanoma. Both UVA and UVB radiation have been shown to induce mutations, as well as mutagenic photoproducts such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, in human skin. UVB can induce melanoma in susceptible mice and in xenografted human skin engineered to express melanocyte growth factors. There is evidence for photosensitization of melanocytes by melanin, especially pheomelanin. UVA can induce melanoma in pigmented fish, and melanocytic hyperplasia in pigmented opossums, but has not generally been tested for melanoma induction in pigmented mammals or in human skin. There is no experimental basis for a claim that UVA is safe, and recreational exposure to this known mutagen should be discouraged.     

Essential Role of RAB27A in Determining Constitutive Human Skin Color

Human skin color is predominantly determined by melanin produced in melanosomes within melanocytes and subsequently distributed to keratinocytes. There are many studies that have proposed mechanisms underlying ethnic skin color variations, whereas the processes involved from melanin synthesis in melanocytes to the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes are common among humans. Apart from the activities in the melanogenic rate-limiting enzyme, tyrosinase, in melanocytes and the amounts and distribution patterns of melanosomes in keratinocytes, the abilities of the actin-associated factors in charge of melanosome transport within melanocytes also regulate pigmentation. Mutations in genes encoding melanosome transport-related molecules, such as MYO5A, RAB27A and SLAC-2A, have been reported to cause a human pigmentary disease known as Griscelli syndrome, which is associated with diluted skin and hair color. Thus we hypothesized that process might play a role in modulating skin color variations. To address that hypothesis, the correlations of expression of RAB27A and its specific effector, SLAC2-A, to melanogenic ability were evaluated in comparison with tyrosinase, using human melanocytes derived from 19 individuals of varying skin types. Following the finding of the highest correlation in RAB27A expression to the melanogenic ability, darkly-pigmented melanocytes with significantly higher RAB27A expression were found to transfer significantly more melanosomes to keratinocytes than lightly-pigmented melanocytes in co-culture and in human skin substitutes (HSSs) in vivo, resulting in darker skin color in concert with the difference observed in African-descent and Caucasian skins. Additionally, RAB27A knockdown by a lentivirus-derived shRNA in melanocytes concomitantly demonstrated a significantly reduced number of transferred melanosomes to keratinocytes in co-culture and a significantly diminished epidermal melanin content skin color intensity (ΔL* = 4.4) in the HSSs. These data reveal the intrinsically essential role of RAB27A in human ethnic skin color determination and provide new insights for the fundamental understanding of regulatory mechanisms underlying skin pigmentation.     

Keratinocyte-melanocyte co-cultures and pigmented reconstructed human epidermis: models to study modulation of melanogenesis.

Normal human melanocytes were amplified and cultured in a new defined culture medium without phorbol esters or cholera toxin. The medium decreased considerably the doubling time and increased the possible passage number. Melanocytes were co-seeded with normal human keratinocytes into 24 well culture dishes to screen potentially active modulators of melanogenesis. For the assay, the co-cultures were exposed to the compounds under investigation in the presence of 14C-thiouracil and 3H-leucine. Control cultures contain L-tyrosine or kojic acid, modulators which served as internal calibration standards. Changes in the rate of melanin synthesis were measured on the basis of 14C-thiouracil incorporation into newly synthesized melanin. A reduction or increase in 3H-leucine incorporation was taken as an indication of cytotoxicity or induction of proliferation, respectively. The NHK-NHM co-culture screening assay provides a useful tool to compare the activity of known modulators of melanogenesis and to perform structure-activity studies with newly identified modulators to improve their activity. The efficacy of particularly interesting new compounds was further evaluated on reconstructed pigmented epidermis after repeated topical application. The same model was used to assess the anti-pigmenting effect of sunscreens on UV-induced pigmentation. Integration of melanocytes from different ethnic origin resulted in pigmented epidermis reflecting different skin phenotypes, Caucasian, Asian and African.     

The mathematics of tanning

Background  

The pigment melanin is produced by specialized cells, called melanocytes. In healthy skin, melanocytes are sparsely spread among the other cell types in the basal layer of the epidermis. Sun tanning results from an UV-induced increase in the release of melanin to neighbouring keratinocytes, the major cell type component of the epidermis as well as redistribution of melanin among these cells. Here we provide a mathematical conceptualization of our current knowledge of the tanning response, in terms of a dynamic model. The resolution level of the model is tuned to available data, and its primary focus is to describe the tanning response following UV exposure.     

Pigmented Human Skin Equivalent: New Method of Reconstitution by Grafting an Epithelial Sheet Onto a Non-Contractile Dermal Equivalent

We have established a new protocol for reconstituting a pigmented human skin equivalent (PSE) and have evaluated its functional responses to environmental stimulus, UVB. The PSE is reconstituted by grafting an epithelial sheet consisting of keratinocytes and melanocytes onto a porous non-contractile dermal equivalent populated with mitotically and metabolically active fibroblasts. i) The PSE has a multilayered, well-differentiated epidermis with cuboidal basal cells and highly organised dermis with newly synthesised extracellular matrix components. ii) Ki67-positive proliferating keratinocytes (18.1 ± 7.4%) were detected on the basal layer of the epidermis. iii) Melanocytes located exclusively within the basal layer were detected by monoclonal antibody against tyrosinase-related protein (TRP-1). iv) After exposure to UVB (100 mJ/cm² per day) for 7 consecutive days, the intensity of TRP-1 staining was increased in the PSE, showing their functional state, whereas the number of melanocytes was not changed. This non-contractile and functioning new PSE is potentially useful as a model for studying the role of melanocyte-keratinocyte-fibroblast interactions in photoprotection of the skin in more complex cutaneous microenvironment than monolayer culture, and for developing in vitro disease models and therapeutic protocols with genetically altered cells both in epidermis and dermis.     

Correlation between melanogenic and catalase activity in in vitro human melanocytes: a synergic strategy against oxidative stress

UV-induced DNA damage can lead to melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer. Understanding the mechanisms employed by melanocytes to protect against UV is therefore a key issue. In melanocytes, catalase is the main enzyme responsible for degrading hydrogen peroxide and we have previously shown that that low basal levels of catalase activity are associated with the light phototype in in vitro and ex vivo models. Here we investigate the possible correlation between its activity and melanogenesis in primary cultures of human melanocytes. We show that while the total melanin concentration is directly correlated to the level of pigmentation, the more the degree of pigmentation increased, the lower the proportion of pheomelanin present. Moreover, in human melanocytes in vitro, catalase-specific mRNA, protein and enzymatic activity were all directly correlated with total cellular melanin content. We also observed that immediately after a peroxidative treatment, the increase in reactive oxygen species was inversely associated with pigmentation level. Darkly pigmented melanocytes therefore possess two protective strategies represented by melanins and catalase activity that are likely to act synergistically to counteract the deleterious effects of UV radiation. By contrast, lightly pigmented melanocytes possess lower levels of melanogenic and catalase activity and are therefore more susceptible to accumulate damage after UV exposition.     

Phosphorylated mixed isomers of L-dopa increase melanin content in skins of Skh-2 pigmented hairless mice

Dopa phosphates, a new class of compounds, contain phosphate-ester linkages at the 3- and/or 4- positions of the phenylalanine ring of L-dopa. Dopa phosphates have been shown to increase pigment production in the epidermis of hairless mice. Groups of Skh-2 pigmented hairless mice were treated topically with various concentrations of dopa phosphates daily for five weeks. Half of each group received suberythemal UVB radiation three times weekly for four weeks from a bank of filtered FS20 lamps. UVB and dopa phosphates alone each caused a modest increase in epidermal pigmentation. However, treatment of mice with dopa phosphates plus UVB radiation resulted in a marked increase in pigmentation, greater than with either treatment alone. The optimal concentration of dopa phosphates was 0.01% (100 micrograms/ml Tris-glycerol buffer) whether or not they were applied in conjunction with UVB radiation. Histological analyses revealed that dopa phosphates and UVB radiation each caused an increase in the number of pigmented melanocytes in the epidermis. Control groups treated with Tris-glycerol buffer alone, or buffer containing L-phenylalanine or L-dopa showed no significant changes in pigmentation. Our results indicate that dopa phosphates stimulate the production of melanin and affect the development and distribution of melanocytes in the skin of Skh-2 mice. By these criteria, dopa phosphates and UVB act in a similar manner to increase melanin content in the skin. The processes may be related to those recently observed in cultured mouse melanoma cells where dopa phosphates are incorporated into melanin, presumably following enzymatic hydrolysis by cellular phosphatases with the resultant production of L-dopa and inorganic phosphate.     

Up-Regulation and redistribution of Bax in ultraviolet B-irradiated melanocytes

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation may activate or deteriorate cultured human epidermal melanocytes, depending on the doses and culture conditions. It is also reported that cultured human epidermal melanocytes derived from different pigmentary phenotypes showed different responses to UVB radiation. In this study, we examined whether apoptosis of melanocytes can be induced by physiologic doses of UVB irradiation using cultured human epidermal melanocytes derived from oriental males of skin types III and IV. Propidium iodide staining for DNA condensation and flow cytometric analyses demonstrated the apoptotic cell death of melanocytes following UVB irradiation (0-30 mJ/cm2). The levels of p53, Bax, and Bcl-2, determined by immunoblotting, revealed a dose-dependent increase in p53 and Bax, but the level of Bcl-2 remained unchanged. Confocal microscopic examination showed that Bax moved from a diffuse to a punctate distribution after UVB irradiation. However, there were no changes in the pattern of distribution of Bcl-2. These data suggest that the high constitutional level of Bcl-2 may protect melanocytes from UVB-induced injury, and that apoptotic death of melanocytes may be induced by the elevation and redistribution of Bax.