Sources of variation affecting cashmere grown in the Pamir mountain districts of Tajikistan and implications for industry development

We aimed to quantify the sources of variation contributing to the main quality attributes of cashmere produced from goats in the Pamir mountain districts of Murghab, Shugnon and Vanj in Tajikistan. In early spring 2010, mid-side samples were taken from 194 adult females, 43 adult males and 20 castrates belonging to 58 farmers and pastoralists in 14 villages. For 57 goats, samples were also taken from the shoulder and hip sites. Mean fibre diameter (MFD), fibre curvature (FC) and cashmere staple length (SL) data were examined using a general linear model to determine the relationships between fleece attributes and other possible effects. For females, the mean (s.d.) for MFD, FC and SL were: 16.5 (1.70) μm; 46 (12.1)°/mm; 53 (22.9) mm. MFD was affected by district, SL and age of goat. SL was affected by district, MFD, gender, age of goat and village. FC was affected by district, MFD, shade of cashmere, age of goat and farmer. Cashmere from Vanj district was finer and shorter than cashmere from Murghab and Shugnon. Cashmere grown on the mid-side and hip sites was finer and had higher FC than cashmere grown on the shoulder. Cashmere grown on the hip was shorter than cashmere grown on the mid-side and shoulder. About 50% of the cashmere sampled was < 16.4 μm and potentially suitable for knitwear. Of this fine cashmere, 53% was 34 mm or longer. A further 37% of the cashmere was 16.4-18.5 μm, and suitable for weaving as 97% was longer than 36 mm. Almost 12% of samples were > 18.5 μm and may only be suitable for weaving or, if cashgora, will have little commercial value. Most of the cashmere was coloured. There are cashmere goats in the Murghab, Shugnon and Vanj districts of Tajikistan which produce the finest qualities of cashmere, comparable to premium grades of Chinese cashmere. There is substantial scope to increase the commercial value of cashmere produced by goats in Tajikistan, in particular increasing SL for fine cashmere, reducing MFD for the longest cashmere and ensuring cashmere has acceptable FC and white colour.