Ectoine disperses keratin and alters hydration kinetics in stratum corneum

Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ～30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ～20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of <5% RH, but SC swelling measurements suggest that water retention was improved in ambient conditions. Further, changes up to ～4 J/m² were seen in cohesion after ectoine treatments, suggesting corneodesmosome interactions. HEG was tested and found to disperse keratin without impacting corneodesmosomes. These results indicate that keratin dispersants produce beneficial effects on SC hydration kinetics, ultimately resulting in higher SC hydration under ambient conditions.