X-ray diffraction analysis of internal wool lipids

Polarised optical microscopy (POM) and X-ray diffraction techniques were applied to intercellular lipids extracted from wool to study their structural arrangement in order to determine their role in the diffusion properties of wool fibre. Intercellular wool lipids (IWL) arranged as concentrated liposomes were shown to be a good intercellular lipid model, allowing their study by X-ray diffraction techniques. The results confirm that intercellular lipids of wool fibre are organised in a lamellar structure of 5.0–8.0 nm width, termed β-layer, which had been assumed to be lipids arranged as a bilayer. Structurally, internal wool lipids are distributed at least in two domains at low temperatures: an ordered phase made up of ceramides and free fatty acids (FFA) alone, arranged in crystal orthorhombic states separately, and a liquid crystal state when mixed together. At 40 °C there is a reversible phase transition produced by the melt of the crystal orthorhombic states, whereas the liquid crystal state remains until 65 °C.