Physical processes in an Indian Ocean atoll

 Detailed measurements of water levels, and tide and wave-induced currents were undertaken to examine physical processes and their relationship with morphology in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, a medium sized atoll in the Indian Ocean. Results indicate that the atoll structure controls both lagoon circulation and the spatial pattern of energy distribution. Lagoon circulation is tide dominated (currents 16–31 cms^-1) with flushing (2–5 days) of the lagoon occurring through the deep leeward passages. Wave- and tide-driven unidirectional flows through shallow passages (26–65 cms^-1) are important mechanisms of ocean to lagoon water exchange and contribute up to 24% of the lagoon neap tide prism. Reef flats are dominated by wave energy (maximum velocity 140 cms^-1, east) with measurements of the attenuation of wave energy between reef flats and shallow lagoon (80–90%) conforming to measurements from fringing and barrier reefs. Spectral analysis shows that the characteristics of wave energy vary on different sectors of the atoll, with gravity wave energy dominating the east, and infragravity wave energy dominating the southern reef flat and passages. Wave setup at the reef crest is considered to be responsible for an identified 0.1 m higher water level in the southern as opposed to eastern and northern atoll, which promotes higher reef flat growth. Transmission of gravity waves across reef flats requires threshold water depths of 0.65 (east) and 0.70 m (south). The higher southern reef is an effective filter of gravity wave energy for most tidal elevations. Differences in the type and magnitude of physical processes within the atoll are discussed with relation to geomorphic development on Cocos. Accepted: 28 February 1998