The dissipation of wind wave energy across a fringing reef at Ipan,Guam

Field observations over a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam, during trade wind and tropical storm conditions are used to assess the transformation of sea and swell energy from the fore reef to the shoreline. Parameterizations of wave breaking and bottom friction developed for sandy beaches are found to represent the observed decay in wave energy with an increased friction coefficient. These parameterizations are incorporated into the one-dimensional energy flux balance, which is integrated across the reef to assess the effects of varying tidal range, incident wave height and reef bathymetry on the sea and swell band wave height and wave setup near the shoreline. Wave energy on the reef is strongly depth-limited and controlled by the reef submergence level. Shoreline wave energy increases with incident wave height largely due to the increase in water level from breaking wave setup. Increased tidal levels result in increased shoreline energy, since wave setup is only weakly reduced. The wave height at the shore is shown to be inversely proportional to the width of the reef flat due to dissipation.