Isomeric cysteinyldopas provide a (photo)degradable bulk component and a robust structural element in red human hair pheomelanin

Alkaline H₂O₂ degradation of red hair pheomelanin gave, besides 6‐(2‐amino‐2‐carboxyethyl)‐2‐carboxy‐4‐hydroxybenzothiazole (BTCA), a new product which was identified as 7‐(2‐amino‐2‐carboxyethyl)‐2‐carboxy‐4‐hydroxybenzothiazole (BTCA‐2) originating from 2‐S‐cysteinyldopa (2SCD) derived units. BTCA‐2 was also obtained from a variety of pheomelanic tissues and synthetic pigments. Simultaneous determination of BTCA and BTCA‐2 in segments of red hair locks taken at variable distances from the scalp in a group of 19 individuals indicated an abrupt drop of BTCA yields on passing from root to tip, whereas BTCA‐2 values remained virtually constant throughout hair length. Analysis of 4‐amino‐3‐hydroxyphenylalanine (AHP) and 3‐aminotyrosine (AT) in the same lock segments showed a closely similar trend, whereas yields of thiazole‐2,4,5‐tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) increased with increasing the distance from the scalp. Prolonged exposure of hair locks to sunlight caused a significant decrease in BTCA‐, but not BTCA‐2‐yielding elements. Finally, model studies showed a substantial degradation of 5SCD‐, but not 2SCD‐derived units, during pheomelanin synthesis in vitro. It is concluded that red hair pheomelanin consists of a degradable 5SCD‐derived bulk component associated with stable 2SCD‐derived units. Structural degradation occurs during hair growth probably as a result of oxidative processes related in part to sun exposure.