The World According to Vogue: The Role of Culture(s) in International Fashion Magazines

Anthropologists are known to work in contexts wider than academic settings, actively engaging with people from other disciplines and professions. The lecturers in the Fashion Institute where we presently work are challenged to integrate the practical knowledge and skills originating from the fashion industry into lessons, lectures and␣projects that prepare the students for their future careers. Our own task as (anthro)pology lecturers in Intercultural Communication and Culture and Globalization courses is to engrain a broader knowledge to compliment the practical competencies required in the professional settings. An example of the practical assignments is integrating the students' knowledge of minority groups or other cultures in developing certain fashion brands that would appeal to different ethnic groups or social classes within society or be marketable abroad. The deeper knowledge of segmentation, niche markets and specific target groups helps students to orient themselves in professional situations within the fashion industry. This requires an act of translation as well as transformation in order to translate the general (such as cultural theories) into the concrete (such as examples from the fashion industry) and to transform concrete examples and cases into broader theories. This article reflects on such acts of translation and transformation as evidenced in fashion magazines such as Vogue.     

全胃切除空肠代胃Lahey术式和Nadrowske推荐术式的临床疗效比较

目的 观察、总结和分析全胃切除后Lahey术式与Nadrowsdi推荐术式的临床疗效。方法 选择经医师直接随访复查6个月至1年的全胃切除后饮食量、体力恢复、后遗症及并发症等项目,然后评定疗效。结果 Lahey术式34例中,吻合口瘘2例,肺部感染3例,吻合口狭窄4例,腹壁剖开、腹腔感染3例,并发症发生率35．3％;Nadrowski推荐术式18例中仅吻合口瘘1例,经1周治疗痊愈出院,并发症发生率为5．5％,两者差异显著（P＜0．05）。Lahey术式正常饮食量22例,体力恢复19例,反流性食管炎24例,营养不良18例,腹泻7例;Nadrowski推荐术式正常饮食量16例,体力恢复15例,营养不良1例,无反流性食管炎和腹泻病例,两者除体力恢复无显著差异外,其余各项均有显著性差异（P＜0．05－0．01）。结论 Nadrowski推荐式术优于Lahey术式。Nadrowski推荐术式是本世纪初以来所介绍的最有营养前途而操作简单的一种替代胃手术。     

抑癌基因p53与细胞自噬

细胞自噬(autophagy)是一种在进化上高度保守的代谢通路,它发生的分子机制和信号调控途径相当复杂,其中mTOR信号通路和Beclin1复合物发挥了最重要的调控作用,p53也是细胞自噬重要的调节因子。研究发现,p53可通过多种途径调节细胞自噬水平,这主要决定于它的亚细胞定位。在细胞核中,p53可通过多种方式上调细胞自噬;而在细胞质中,p53对细胞自噬具有负性调节作用,可抑制细胞自噬的发生。探究清楚p53与细胞自噬之间的调控关系将有助于人类正确认识由于细胞自噬功能异常所诱导的肿瘤的发生发展过程,从而最终攻克各种肿瘤性疾病。     

长沙市春季时尚花卉调查与初步研究

研究表明,长沙市2004年春季时尚花卉有79种,涉及45科52属.其中主要种类有蝴蝶兰、巴西铁、金琥、红星果子蔓、圣诞花、金桔等30种,涉及15个科,28个属,包含观花、观叶、观茎、观果和观赏苞片类等5大类,其中以观叶类和观花类花卉占大多数,二者分别占38.7%和32.2%.对重要花卉种类的形态特征、栽培要点及观赏特点等进行了描述,分析了其中15种重要时尚花卉的观赏特色和人气指数,对近年来大众花卉消费观念的变化进行了分析,预测了未来花卉的消费趋势.对我省花卉消费市场及花卉产业发展等问题进行了讨论,提出了有益的建议.     

地鼠繁殖方式的改进与规模化生产

目的：探索SPF地鼠在屏障系统内的配种繁殖方式是否适合目前地鼠大规模生产,满足乙脑减毒活疫苗生产所需动物。方法：采取短期同居配种的繁殖方式进行试验和大规模生产。结果：短期同居配种的繁殖方式与人工刺激配种的繁殖方式相比具有仔鼠成活率高、受孕率高、单产高、利用率高的特点。结论：地鼠短期同居配种的繁殖方式适合在屏障系统内操作和大规模生产。     

贵州梵净山自然保护区藤本植物攀援方式及类型的研究

研究了梵净山自然保护区藤本植物的攀援方式及类型。从生物学、生态学角度 ,将梵净山藤本植物依照它们附着于支持物的攀登方法不同而划分为缠绕、攀援、卷须、根系、铺展与匍匐、寄生及兼有 2种以上攀援方式等 7大类型 14个亚型。并对该林区主要植被类型中的藤本植物进行了相应的讨论     

Cultural Pattern and Process: A Study of Stylistic Change in Women's Dress

Using time series analysis and systems theory it is possible to translate Kroeber's idea of a cultural configuration and its processual consequences into a less ambiguous model. By employing a mathematical formulation certain features of stylistic change in women's dress become evident: it is stochastic/probabilistic in nature and it is in stable equilibrium. The sequence of women's fashions through time would appear to arise from simultaneous operation of inertia, cultural continuity, a rule system of esthetic proportions, and an inherently unpredictable element.     

Castoff from the West,pearls in Kantamanto? A critique of second-hand clothes trade

African countries are today the major importers of the lowest grade of second-hand clothing (SHC). With the opening of global markets and the intense circulation of fast fashion in the Global North from the 1990s, the trade of SHC has exploded in the twenty-first century. The fast fashion business model, which fuels the SHC trade, has led to reduced quality of clothes, limited clothing lifetime, and accelerated discard of clothing, which end up as donations or become waste. The complexity of the international geographies of the SHC trade creates opacity and secrecy, maintaining inequalities and imbalances between Global North (GN) and South (GS), which continue a relationship of colonial dependence. This paper presents a critical look at SHC exchange in Kantamanto, the biggest SHC market in West Africa, situated within the central business district of Accra, Ghana. The paper scrutinizes the export of unwanted donated clothing, popularly known as “Obroni w'awu” (white man is dead), to Kantamanto. We use direct observation along with an interpretive research design through the analysis of photos taken from Kantamanto, and scholarly and gray literature. The paper documents local practices of reuse, exposing a duality: on the one hand, clothing's symbolic value that is lost in the GN is reconstituted in the GS through exchange and labor-creating local economies. On the other, the global trade of SHC has become synonymous with dumping, continuing a colonialist relationship between the GN and GS whereby the GN exports unwanted clothing to predominantly African countries’ landfills.