Stratum corneum hydration: Phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

The outermost layer of skin, stratum corneum (SC), functions as the major barrier to diffusion. SC has the architecture of dead keratin filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. This work presents a detailed study of the hydration process in extracted SC lipids, isolated corneocytes and intact SC. Using isothermal sorption microcalorimetry and relaxation and wideline ¹H NMR, we study these systems at varying degrees of hydration/relative humidities (RH) at 25 °C. The basic findings are (i) there is a substantial swelling both of SC lipids, the corneocytes and the intact SC at high RH. At low RHs corneocytes take up more water than SC lipids do, while at high RHs swelling of SC lipids is more pronounced than that of corneocytes. (ii) Lipids in a fluid state are present in both extracted SC lipids and in the intact SC. (iii) The fraction of fluid lipids is lower at 1.4% water content than at 15% but remains virtually constant as the water content is further increased. (iv) Three exothermic phase transitions are detected in the SC lipids at RH = 91-94%, and we speculate that the lipid re-organization is responsible for the hydration-induced variations in SC permeability. (v) The hydration causes swelling in the corneocytes, while it does not affect the mobility of solid components (keratin filaments).     

Ectoine disperses keratin and alters hydration kinetics in stratum corneum

Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ～30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ～20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of <5% RH, but SC swelling measurements suggest that water retention was improved in ambient conditions. Further, changes up to ～4 J/m² were seen in cohesion after ectoine treatments, suggesting corneodesmosome interactions. HEG was tested and found to disperse keratin without impacting corneodesmosomes. These results indicate that keratin dispersants produce beneficial effects on SC hydration kinetics, ultimately resulting in higher SC hydration under ambient conditions.     

Structure of lamellar lipid domains and corneocyte envelopes of murine stratum corneum. An X-ray diffraction study

The lipid of the outermost layer of the skin is confined largely to the extracellular spaces surrounding the corneocytes of the stratum corneum where it forms a multilamellar adhesive matrix to act as the major permeability barrier of the skin. Knowledge of the molecular architecture of these intercellular domains is important for understanding various skin pathologies and their treatment, percutaneous drug delivery, and the cosmetic maintenance of the skin. We have surveyed by X-ray diffraction the structure of the intercellular domains and the extracted lipids of murine stratum corneum (SC) at 25, 45, and 70 degrees C which are temperatures in the vicinity of known thermal phase transitions [Rehfeld, S. J., & Elias, P. M. (1982) J. Invest. Dermatol. 79, 1-3]. The intercellular domains produce lamellar diffraction patterns with a Bragg spacing of 131 +/- 2 A. Lipid extracted from the SC and dispersed in excess water does not produce a simple lamellar diffraction pattern at any temperature studied, however. This and other facts suggest that another component, probably a protein, must be present to control the architecture of the intercellular lipid domains. We have also obtained diffraction patterns attributable to the protein envelopes of the corneocytes. The patterns suggest a beta-pleated sheet organizational scheme. No diffraction patterns were observed that could be attributed to keratin.     

Lipid chain dynamics in stratum corneum studied by spin label electron paramagnetic resonance

The lipid chain motions in stratum corneum (SC) membranes have been studied through electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy of stearic acid spin-labeled at the 5th, 12th and 16th carbon atom positions of the acyl chain. Lipids have been extracted from SC with a series of chloroform/methanol mixtures, in order to compare the molecular dynamics and the thermotropic behavior in intact SC, lipid-depleted SC (containing covalently bound lipids of the corneocyte envelope) and dispersion of extracted SC lipids. The segmental motion of 5- and 12-doxylstearic acid (5- and 12-DSA) and the rotational correlation time of 16-doxylstearic acid (16-DSA) showed that the envelope lipids are more rigid and the extracted lipids are more fluid than the lipids of the intact SC over the range of temperature measured. The lower fluidity observed for the corneocyte envelope, that may be caused mainly due to lipid-protein interactions, suggests a major contribution of this lipid domain to the barrier function of SC. Changes in the activation energy for reorientational diffusion of the 16-DSA spin label showed apparent phase transitions around 54 degrees C, for the three SC samples. Some lipid reorganization may occur in SC above 54 degrees C, in agreement with results reported from studies with several other techniques. This reorganization is sensitive to the presence of the extractable intercellular lipids, being different in the lipid-depleted sample as compared to native SC and lipid dispersion. The results contribute to the understanding of alkyl chain packing and mobility in the SC membranes, which are involved in the mechanisms that control the permeability of different compounds through skin, suggesting an important involvement of the envelope in the skin barrier.     

Study of human stratum corneum and extracted lipids by thermomicroscopy and DSC

A study on the thermal behavior of human stratum corneum and lipids is described. The use of high scanning rate DSC for both SC and extracted lipids allows the consistent determination of transition temperatures, including those of lower energy. Changes are found both at physiological and higher temperatures. There is a clear correspondence between the thermotropic behavior of these two systems. However, one of the transitions found in human SC (approximately 55 degrees C) is absent in extracted lipids and may be ascribed to those covalently-linked to corneocytes. Lipidic thermotropic behavior is clearly found above 100 degrees C, in which proteins do not play an exclusive role. Changes related to most transitions are observed directly by polarized light thermal microscopy in extracted lipids. This technique also allowed for the observation of large segregated domains in the extracted lipids. A drastic change is observed at approximately 60 degrees C, corresponding to the disruption of the lamellar structure.     

Modeling of composite sorption isotherm for stratum corneum

Equilibrium water sorption in stratum corneum (SC) is considered by treating it as a biocomposite with two main phases, namely, corneocytes and lipids. To validate the rule of mixtures for the individual phase sorption isotherms, a new flexible fitting model is introduced by accounting for characteristic features observed in the variations of the thermodynamic correction factors corresponding to the individual sorption isotherms. The comparison of the model fitting performance with that of the five-parameter Park's model shows a remarkably good ability to fit experimental data for different types of sorption isotherms. The effect of the lipids content on the variance of the composite sorption isotherm of stratum corneum is highlighted. The sensitivity analysis reveals that for the typical water content 20–30 wt%, which corresponds to the SC in a stable condition, the sensitivity of the composite sorption isotherm to the variation of the lipids content on dry basis is predominantly positive and sufficiently small. The good agreement observed between the experimental sorption isotherm for SC and the composite isotherm, which is based on the rule of mixtures for the individual phase sorption isotherms, yields a plausible conclusion (hypothesis) that the corneocytes–lipids mechanical interaction during unconstrained swelling of the SC membrane in the in vitro laboratory experiment is negligible.     

Investigation of stratum corneum lipid model membranes with free fatty acid composition by neutron diffraction

The outermost epidermal layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is the main skin barrier. Studies of SC model systems enable characterization of the influence of individual lipids on the organization of the SC lipid matrix, which is the main pathway of water through the skin. This work presents a neutron diffraction study of the SC model membranes based on short-chain ceramide 6 with nearly realistic composition of free fatty acids (FFA) at physiological temperature of the SC. The influence of FFA and the effect of cholesterol–cholesterol sulfate substitution on the structure and hydration of the SC model membranes are described. The structure of the SC membrane with FFA is close to the structure of the earlier studied SC membrane based on short-chain palmitic acid (PA) and does not vary significantly under changes of the ratio of the main membrane components. FFA accelerates membrane swelling at the same low level of hydration of both PA- and FFA-containing membranes. The substitution of cholesterol sulfate by cholesterol in the membrane composition decreases membrane swelling and leads to phase separation in the model system.     

Novel method to observe subtle structural modulation of stratum corneum on applying chemical agents

In the development of functional chemicals such as percutaneous penetration enhancers and cosmetics, the structural evidence at the molecular level in stratum corneum (SC) is highly desirable. We developed a method to observe a minute structural change of intercellular lipid matrix and corneocytes on applying the chemicals to the SC using synchrotron X-ray diffraction technique. The performance of the present method was demonstrated by applying typical chemicals, chloroform/methanol mixture, hydrophilic ethanol and hydrophobic d-limonene. From the small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction we obtained the following results: on applying chloroform/methanol mixture the intercellular lipids were extracted markedly, on applying ethanol the intercellular lipid structure was slightly disrupted, ethanol molecules were taken into the corneocytes and in addition the pools of ethanol seem to be formed in the hydrophilic region of the intercellular lipid matrix in the SC, and on applying d-limonene the repeat distance of the long lamellar structure increased by incorporating d-limonene molecules, the intercellular lipid structure was slightly disrupted, and the pools of d-limonene were formed in the hydrophobic region of the intercellular lipid matrix in the SC.     

Translating chemometric analysis into physiological insights from in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy of the human stratum corneum

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions and acts as a protective barrier for the body against water loss, toxic agents and microorganisms. As most substances permeate the stratum corneum through the lipid regions, lipid organization is considered crucial for the skin barrier function. Here, we investigate the potential of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to describe the composition and organization of the SC. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is finding increasing use in the characterization of skin in biomedical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. In this work, we analyze the spectra using chemometric methods and obtain principal components that correspond to the primary skin constituents: protein (keratin), natural moisturizing factor (NMF), water and lipid contributions in both ordered (orthorhombic) and disordered structural organization. By identifying these important components of the SC, these results highlight the utility of this in vivo, non-invasive, and depth resolved tool at the forefront of skin research.     

The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC) plays a fundamental role in the barrier function of the skin. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. The main lipid classes in the lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to examine the effect of the chain length of FFAs on the thermotropic phase behavior and mixing properties of SC lipids. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman imaging spectroscopy were used to study the mixing properties using either protonated or deuterated FFAs. We selected SC model lipid mixtures containing only a single CER, CHOL and either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs mimicking the FFA SC composition. The single CER consists of a sphingoid base with 18 carbon atoms and an acyl chain with a chain length of 24 carbon atoms. When using lignoceric acid (24 carbon atoms) or a mixture of FFAs, the CER and FFAs participated in mixed crystals, but hydration of the mixtures induced a slight phase separation between CER and FFA. The mixed crystalline structures did not phase separate during storage even up to a time period of 3 months. When using palmitic acid (16 carbon atoms), a slight phase separation was observed between FFA and CER. This phase separation was clearly enhanced during hydration and storage. In conclusion, the thermotropic phase behavior and the mixing properties of the SC lipid mixtures were shown to strongly depend on the chain length and chain length distribution of FFAs, while hydration enhanced the phase separation.     

Characterization of Stratum Corneum Molecular Dynamics by Natural-Abundance 13C Solid-State NMR

Despite the enormous potential for pharmaceutical applications, there is still a lack of understanding of the molecular details that can contribute to increased permeability of the stratum corneum (SC). To investigate the influence of hydration and heating on the SC, we record the natural-abundance ¹³C signal of SC using polarization transfer solid-state NMR methods. Resonance lines from all major SC components are assigned. Comparison of the signal intensities obtained with the INEPT and CP pulse sequences gives information on the molecular dynamics of SC components. The majority of the lipids are rigid at 32°C, and those lipids co-exist with a small pool of mobile lipids. The ratio between mobile and rigid lipids increases with hydration. An abrupt change of keratin filament dynamics occurs at RH = 80–85%, from completely rigid to a structure with rigid backbone and mobile protruding terminals. Heating has a strong effect on the lipid mobility, but only a weak influence on the keratin filaments. The results provide novel molecular insight into how the SC constituents are affected by hydration and heating, and improve the understanding of enhanced SC permeability, which is associated with elevated temperatures and SC hydration.     

A possible regulation mechanism of water content in human stratum corneum via intercellular lipid matrix

We studied the water regulation mechanism in human stratum corneum which is composed of corneocytes and intercellular lipid matrix by the ex vivo small- and medium-angle X-ray diffraction. Under the normal condition water molecules are stored mainly in the corneocytes. When the water content increased, from the small-angle X-ray diffraction of the human stratum corneum we obtained the swelling behavior of the short lamellar lipid structure as a result of incorporating a very small amount of water into water layers between neighboring the lipid bilayers, and its diffraction peak width became narrow and turned to wide at the water content of 20-30wt%. In addition as evidence for uptake of water in the corneocytes, we observed the structural modification of soft keratins in the corneocytes from the medium-angle X-ray diffraction. Based upon these results we propose that the water content in the human stratum corneum is regulated to be at 20-30wt% so as to stabilize the short lamellar structure in the intercellular lipid matrix.     

The influence of two azones and sebaceous lipids on the lateral organization of lipids isolated from human stratum corneum

The main problem with topical application of compounds to administer drugs to and regulate drug levels in a human body, is the barrier formed by the intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC). In a search for possibilities to overcome this barrier function, a good understanding of the organization and phase behavior of these lipids is required. SC lipid model studies especially provide a wealth of information with respect to the lipid organization and the importance of certain subclasses of lipids for the structure. Previously, we have shown that electron diffraction (ED) provides detailed information on the lateral lipid packing in both intact SC (G.S.K. Pilgram et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 113 (1999) 403) and SC lipid models (G.S.K. Pilgram et al., J. Lipid Res. 39 (1998) 1669). In the present study, we used ED to examine the influence of two azones and sebaceous lipids on the lateral phase behavior of lipids isolated from human SC. We established that human SC lipids are arranged in an orthorhombic packing pattern. Upon mixing with the two enhancers the orthorhombic packing pattern was still observed; however, an additional fluid phase became more apparent. In mixtures with sebaceous lipids, the presence of the hexagonal lattice increased. These findings provide a basis for the mechanism by which these enhancers and sebaceous lipids interact with human SC lipids.     

New insights into the structure and hydration of a stratum corneum lipid model membrane by neutron diffraction

The structure and hydration of a stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membrane composed of N-(-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER6)/cholesterol (Ch)/palmitic acid (PA)/cholesterol sulfate (ChS) were characterized by neutron diffraction. The neutron scattering length density across the SC lipid model membrane was calculated from measured diffraction peak intensities. The internal membrane structure and water distribution function across the bilayer were determined. The low hydration of the intermembrane space is a major feature of the SC lipid model membrane. The thickness of the water layer in the SC lipid model membrane is about 1 Å at full hydration. For the composition 55% CER6/25% Ch/15% PA/5% ChS, in a partly dehydrated state (60% humidity) and at 32°C, the lamellar repeat distance and the membrane thickness have the same value of 45.6 Å . The hydrophobic region of the membrane has a thickness of 31.2 Å . A decrease of the Ch content increases the membrane thickness. The water diffusion through the SC lipid model multilamellar membrane is a considerably slow process relative to that through phospholipid membranes. In excess water, the membrane hydration follows an exponential law with two characteristic times of 93 and 44 min. At 81°C and 97% humidity, the membrane separates into two phases with repeat distances of 45.8 and 40.5 Å . Possible conformations of CER6 molecules in the dry and hydrated multilayers are discussed.     

Influence of different ceramides on the structure of in vitro model lipid systems of the stratum corneum lipid matrix

Human stratum corneum (SC) consists of several layers of keratinized corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure which is considered to constitute the major barrier to percutaneous penetration. Artificial mixtures of SC lipids are often used as model systems to mimic the skin barrier or to investigate the effects of substances on the phase behaviour of the models. In the present study a SC lipid model composed of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides was used to investigate the effect of three different commercially available ceramide types on the microstructure and the physicochemical behaviour of the lipids. Polarized light microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, small-angle X-ray diffraction, wide-angle X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used for physicochemical characterization. The results revealed a lamellar structure for all models but showed differences with regard to the thermal and optical behaviour depending obviously on the composition of the ceramide mixtures. A model containing a mixture of Cer[AS] was comparable to human SC lipids.     

Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.     

Cholesterol sulfate and calcium affect stratum corneum lipid organization over a wide temperature range

The main diffusion barrier for drugs penetrating through the skin is located in the intercellular lipid matrix in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). The main lipid classes in the SC are ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). The lipids in SC are organized into two lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 13 and 6 nm, respectively. Similar lipid organization has been found with equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures in SAXD studies performed at room temperature. However, one may conclude that the phase behavior of the mixtures is similar to that in SC only when the lipid organization of the lipid mixtures resembles that in SC over a wide temperature range. Therefore, in the present study, the organization of the lipid mixtures has been studied in a temperature range between 20 degrees and 95 degrees C. From these experiments it appeared that at elevated temperatures in equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures a new prominent 4.3 nm phase is formed between 35;-55 degrees C, which is absent or only weakly formed in intact human and pig SC, respectively. As it has been suggested that gradients of pH and cholesterol sulfate exist in the SC and that Ca(2+) is present only in the lowest SC layers, the effect of pH, cholesterol sulfate, and Ca(2+) on the lipid phase behavior has been investigated with lipid mixtures. Both an increase in pH from 5 (pH at the skin surface) to 7.4 (pH at the SC;-stratum granulosum interface) and the presence of cholesterol sulfate promote the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase. Furthermore, cholesterol sulfate reduces the amount of CHOL that is present in crystalline domains, causes a shift in the formation of the 4.3 nm phase to higher temperatures, and makes this phase less prominent at higher temperatures. The finding that Ca(2+) counteracts the effects of cholesterol sulfate indicates the importance of a proper balance of minor SC components for appropriate SC lipid organization. In addition, when the findings are extrapolated to the in vivo situation, it seems that cholesterol sulfate is required to dissolve cholesterol in the lamellar phases and to stabilize SC lipid organization. Therefore, a drop in cholesterol sulfate content in the superficial layers of the SC is expected to destabilize the lipid lamellar phases, which might facilitate the desquamation process.     

Cholesterol sulfate and Ca(2+) modulate the mixing properties of lipids in stratum corneum model mixtures

The influence of cholesterol sulfate (CS) and calcium on the phase behavior of lipid mixtures mimicking the stratum corneum (SC) lipids was examined using vibrational spectroscopy. Raman microspectrocopy showed that equimolar mixtures of ceramide, palmitic acid, and cholesterol underwent a phase transition in which, at low temperatures, lipids formed mainly a mosaic of microcrystalline phase-separated domains, and above 45 degrees C, a more fluid and disordered phase in which the three lipid species were more miscible. In the presence of Ca(2+), there was the formation of fatty acid-Ca(2+) complexes that led to domains stable on heating. Consequently, these lipid mixtures remained heterogeneous, and the fatty acid molecules were not extensively involved in the formation of the fluid lipid phase, which included mainly ceramide and cholesterol. However, the presence of CS displaced the association site of Ca(2+) ions and inhibited the formation of domains formed by the fatty acid molecules complexed with Ca(2+) ions. This work reveals that CS and Ca(2+) modulate the lipid mixing properties and the lipid order in SC lipid models. The balance in the equilibria involving Ca(2+), CS, and fatty acids is proposed to have an impact on the organization and the function of the epidermis.     

Novel lipid mixtures based on synthetic ceramides reproduce the unique stratum corneum lipid organization

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin protect the body from uncontrolled water loss. In human stratum corneum (SC), two crystalline lamellar phases are present, which contain mostly cholesterol, free fatty acids, and nine types of free ceramides. Previous studies have demonstrated that the SC lipid organization can be mimicked with model mixtures based on isolated SC lipids. However, those studies are hampered by low availability and high interindividual variability of the native tissue. To elucidate the role of each lipid class in the formation of a competent skin barrier, the use of synthetic lipids would offer an alternative. The small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction results of the present study show for the first time that synthetic lipid mixtures, containing only three synthetic ceramides, reflect to a high extent the SC lipid organization. Both an appropriately chosen preparation method and lipid composition promote the formation of two characteristic lamellar phases with repeat distances similar to those found in native SC. From all synthetic lipid mixtures examined, equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids equilibrated at 80 degrees C resemble to the highest extent the lamellar and lateral SC lipid organization, both at room and increased temperatures.