Investigation of stratum corneum lipid model membranes with free fatty acid composition by neutron diffraction

The outermost epidermal layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is the main skin barrier. Studies of SC model systems enable characterization of the influence of individual lipids on the organization of the SC lipid matrix, which is the main pathway of water through the skin. This work presents a neutron diffraction study of the SC model membranes based on short-chain ceramide 6 with nearly realistic composition of free fatty acids (FFA) at physiological temperature of the SC. The influence of FFA and the effect of cholesterol–cholesterol sulfate substitution on the structure and hydration of the SC model membranes are described. The structure of the SC membrane with FFA is close to the structure of the earlier studied SC membrane based on short-chain palmitic acid (PA) and does not vary significantly under changes of the ratio of the main membrane components. FFA accelerates membrane swelling at the same low level of hydration of both PA- and FFA-containing membranes. The substitution of cholesterol sulfate by cholesterol in the membrane composition decreases membrane swelling and leads to phase separation in the model system.     

Neutron diffraction studies of oral stratum corneum model lipid membranes

In this work we have investigated model lipid mixtures simulating a lipid component of oral stratum corneum (OSC). Neutron diffraction experiments on oriented samples have revealed that SM (bovine brain)/dipalmitoylphosphatidylethanolamine/dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPE/DPPC) mixtures at molar ratios of 1/2/1 and 1/1/1 are one-phase membranes. The incorporation of low concentrations of ceramide 6 and cholesterol into SM/DPPC/DPPE bilayers does not result in a phase separation, affecting membrane hydration. The model OSC membrane composed of ceramide 6/cholesterol/fatty acids/cholesterol sulfate/SM (bovine brain)/DPPE/DPPC is characterized by coexistence of several lamellar phases, that behave differently during their hydration in water excess. The phase with lamellar repeat distance of about 45 Å is likely a ceramide-rich phase and shows a restricted swelling in water, while another phase with repeat distance of 50 Å swells very quickly on 15 Å and then disappears. Our results indicate that phospholipid-rich and ceramide-rich domains could possibly coexist in the intercellular space of oral epithelium.     

The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC) plays a fundamental role in the barrier function of the skin. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. The main lipid classes in the lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to examine the effect of the chain length of FFAs on the thermotropic phase behavior and mixing properties of SC lipids. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman imaging spectroscopy were used to study the mixing properties using either protonated or deuterated FFAs. We selected SC model lipid mixtures containing only a single CER, CHOL and either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs mimicking the FFA SC composition. The single CER consists of a sphingoid base with 18 carbon atoms and an acyl chain with a chain length of 24 carbon atoms. When using lignoceric acid (24 carbon atoms) or a mixture of FFAs, the CER and FFAs participated in mixed crystals, but hydration of the mixtures induced a slight phase separation between CER and FFA. The mixed crystalline structures did not phase separate during storage even up to a time period of 3 months. When using palmitic acid (16 carbon atoms), a slight phase separation was observed between FFA and CER. This phase separation was clearly enhanced during hydration and storage. In conclusion, the thermotropic phase behavior and the mixing properties of the SC lipid mixtures were shown to strongly depend on the chain length and chain length distribution of FFAs, while hydration enhanced the phase separation.     

Molecular dynamics simulations of stratum corneum lipid models: fatty acids and cholesterol

We report the results of an investigation on stratum corneum lipids, which present the main barrier of the skin. Molecular dynamics simulations, thermal analysis and FTIR measurements were applied. The primary objective of this work was to study the effect of cholesterol on skin structure and dynamics. Two molecular models were constructed, a free fatty acid bilayer (stearic acid, palmitic acid) and a fatty acid/cholesterol mixture at a 1:1 molar ratio. Our simulations were performed at constant pressure and temperature on a nanosecond time scale. The resulting model structures were characterized by calculating surface areas per headgroup, conformational properties, atom densities and order parameters of the fatty acids. Analysis of the simulations indicates that the free fatty acid fraction of stratum corneum lipids stays in a highly ordered crystalline state at skin temperatures. The phase behavior is strongly influenced when cholesterol is added. Cholesterol smoothes the rigid phases of the fatty acids: the order of the hydrocarbon tails (mainly of the last eight bonds) is reduced, the area per molecule becomes larger, the fraction of trans dihedrals is lower and the hydrophobic thickness is reduced. The simulation results are in good agreement with our experimental data from FTIR analysis and NIR-FT Raman spectroscopy.     

Infrared spectroscopic study of stratum corneum model membranes prepared from human ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid domains. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are cholesterol, ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids forming two crystalline lamellar phases. However, only limited information is available on whether the various lipid classes participate in the same crystalline lattices or if separate domains are formed within the lipid lamellae. In this article infrared spectroscopic studies are reported of hydrated mixtures prepared from cholesterol, human CER, and free fatty acids. Evaluation of the methylene stretching vibrations revealed a conformational disordering starting at approximately 60 degrees C for all mixtures. Examination of the rotational ordering (scissoring and rocking vibrations) of mixtures prepared from equimolar cholesterol and CER with a variation in the level of free fatty acids showed that at lower free fatty acid content orthorhombic and hexagonal domains coexist in the lipid lamellae. Increasing the fatty acid level to an equimolar cholesterol/CER/fatty acid mixture reveals the dominant presence of an orthorhombic lattice, confirming x-ray diffraction studies. Replacing the protonated free fatty acid chains by their perdeuterated counterparts demonstrates that free fatty acids and CER participate in the same orthorhombic lattice up to a level of slightly less than 1:1:0.75 cholesterol/CER/free fatty acids molar ratio but that free fatty acids also form separate domains within the lipid lamellae at equimolar ratios at room temperature. However, no evidence for this has been observed at 32 degrees C. Extrapolating these findings to the situation in stratum corneum led us conclude that in stratum corneum, fatty acids and CER participate in the orthorhombic lattice at 32 degrees C, the skin temperature.     

Evidence of free fatty acid interdigitation in stratum corneum model membranes based on ceramide [AP] by deuterium labelling

This research paper provides direct evidence concerning the localisation of free fatty acids in stratum corneum lipid model membranes. We employed partially deuterated free fatty acids to gain further information about the assembly of a stratum corneum lipid model membrane based on a ceramide of the phytosphingosine-type (ceramide [AP]) with particular respect to the position of the deuterated groups of the free fatty acids. The application of behenic-22,22,22-d₃-acid and cerotic-12,12,13,13-d₄-acid confirmed that the short-chain ceramide [AP] forces the longer-chained free fatty acids to incorporate into the bilayer created by ceramide [AP]. The ceramide [AP] molecules determine the structural assembly of this model membrane and obligate the long-chain free fatty acids to either arrange inside this formation or to separate as a fatty acid rich phase.     

Fatty acid interdigitation in stratum corneum model membranes: a neutron diffraction study

The influence of the chain length of the free fatty acid (FFA) in a stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membrane composed of N-(alpha-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER [AP]), cholesterol (Ch), FFA and cholesterol sulphate (ChS) was investigated by neutron diffraction. The internal nanostructure of the SC lipid membrane in addition to the water distribution function was determined via calculation of the neutron scattering length density profile (Fourier profile). The Fourier profiles of the studied SC model membranes revealed that such membranes have a repeat distance approximately equal to the membrane thickness. Increasing the chain length of the FFA in the CER[AP] based model membrane did not cause an alteration of the internal nanostructure but led to a decrease in the membrane repeat distance from 45.6 A (palmitic acid, C16:0) to 43.7 A (cerotic acid, C26:0) due to a partial interdigitation of the FFA chains. Ceramide [AP] forces the long chain fatty acids to incorporate into the unchanged spacing of the bilayer, thereby obligating the FFA protrude partly through opposing leaflet. Furthermore, the longer chained free fatty acids tend to form a new separate so-called "fatty acid rich phase". Therefore, the elongation of the chain length of the FFA decreases the solubility of the FFA in the SC model membrane based on CER[AP].     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Effects of sphingomyelin/ceramide ratio on the permeability and microstructure of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

The conversion of sphingomyelin (SM) to a ceramide (Cer) by acid sphingomyelinase (aSMase) is an important event in skin barrier development. A deficiency in aSMase in diseases such as Niemann–Pick disease and atopic dermatitis coincides with impaired skin barrier recovery after disruption. We studied how an increased SM/Cer ratio influences the barrier function and microstructure of model stratum corneum (SC) lipid membranes. In the membranes composed of isolated human SC Cer (hCer)/cholesterol/free fatty acids/cholesteryl sulfate, partial or full replacement of hCer by SM increased water loss. Partial replacement of 25% and 50% of hCer by SM also increased the membrane permeability to theophylline and alternating electric current, while a higher SM content either did not alter or even decreased the membrane permeability. In contrast, in a simple membrane model with only one type of Cer (nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine, CerNS), an increased SM/Cer ratio provided a similar or better barrier against the permeation of various markers. X-ray powder diffraction revealed that the replacement of hCer by SM interferes with the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase with a repeat distance of d = 12.7 nm. Our results suggest that SM-to-Cer processing in the human epidermis is essential for preventing excessive water loss, while the permeability barrier to exogenous compounds is less sensitive to the presence of sphingomyelin.     

Molecular properties of a stratum corneum model lipid system: large unilamellar vesicles.

Stratum corneum lipids are relatively complex, and there is little detailed understanding of their chemical and physical properties at the molecular level. Large unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) with lipid compositions similar to those of stratum corneum were prepared at pH 9 with commercially available lipids. This system was used as a model system for molecular studies of stratum corneum lipids. LUVs were chosen as the model system as they are comparatively more stable and can be characterized more quantitatively in terms of lipid concentration, surface area, and volume than model systems such as lipid mixture suspensions, lipid films, and small unilamellar vesicles. Results from freeze-fracture and cryo electron microscopy studies of our LUVs showed spherical vesicles. Quasi-elastic light scattering measurements revealed a narrow size distribution, centering around 119 nm. At room temperature, the LUVs were stable for several weeks at pH 9 and for more than 15 h but less than 24 h at pH 6. Differential scanning calorimetry measurements indicated broad endothermic transitions centered near 60-65 degrees C, closely matching the transition temperature reported for stratum corneum lipid extracts. Spin probes, 5-doxylstearic acid and 12-doxylstearic acid, were used for electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) studies of the molecular dynamics of the lipids. EPR results indicated more restricted motion near the polar headgroup region than near the center of the alkyl chain region. Motional profiles of the spin labels near the polar headgroup and within the alkyl chain region in the LUVs were obtained as a function of temperature, ranging from 25 to 90 degrees C. We also found that the partitioning between the lipid and aqueous phases for each spin probe was temperature dependent and was generally correlated with phase transitions observed by differential scanning calorimetry and with alkyl chain mobility observed by EPR. Thus, this LUV system is well suited for additional molecular studies under different experimental conditions.     

Electron spin-echo studies of spin-labelled lipid membranes and free fatty acids interacting with human serum albumin

Human serum albumin (HSA) is an abundant plasma protein that transports fatty acids and also binds a wide variety of hydrophobic pharmacores. Echo-detected (ED) EPR spectra and D(2)O-electron spin echo envelope modulation (ESEEM) Fourier-transform spectra of spin-labelled free fatty acids and phospholipids were used jointly to investigate the binding of stearic acid to HSA and the adsorption of the protein on dipalmitoyl phosphatidylcholine (DPPC) membranes. In membranes, torsional librations are detected in the ED-spectra, the intensity of which depends on chain position at low temperature. Water penetration into the membrane is seen in the D(2)O-ESEEM spectra, the intensity of which decreases greatly at the middle of the membrane. Both the chain librational motion and the water penetration are only little affected by adsorption of serum albumin at the DPPC membrane surface. In contrast, both the librational motion and the accessibility of the chains to water are very different in the hydrophobic fatty acid binding sites of HSA from those in membranes. Indeed, the librational motion of bound fatty acids is suppressed at low temperature, and is similar for the different chain positions, at all temperatures. Correspondingly, all segments of the bound chains are accessible to water, to rather similar extents.     

Electron spin-echo studies of spin-labelled lipid membranes and free fatty acids interacting with human serum albumin

Human serum albumin (HSA) is an abundant plasma protein that transports fatty acids and also binds a wide variety of hydrophobic pharmacores. Echo-detected (ED) EPR spectra and D₂O-electron spin echo envelope modulation (ESEEM) Fourier-transform spectra of spin-labelled free fatty acids and phospholipids were used jointly to investigate the binding of stearic acid to HSA and the adsorption of the protein on dipalmitoyl phosphatidylcholine (DPPC) membranes. In membranes, torsional librations are detected in the ED-spectra, the intensity of which depends on chain position at low temperature. Water penetration into the membrane is seen in the D₂O-ESEEM spectra, the intensity of which decreases greatly at the middle of the membrane. Both the chain librational motion and the water penetration are only little affected by adsorption of serum albumin at the DPPC membrane surface. In contrast, both the librational motion and the accessibility of the chains to water are very different in the hydrophobic fatty acid binding sites of HSA from those in membranes. Indeed, the librational motion of bound fatty acids is suppressed at low temperature, and is similar for the different chain positions, at all temperatures. Correspondingly, all segments of the bound chains are accessible to water, to rather similar extents.     

Impact of free hydroxylated and methyl-branched fatty acids on the organization of lipid membranes

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) has been applied to study the effect of free hydroxylated and methyl-branched fatty acids on the physico-chemical properties of lipid membranes. First, the impact of free hydroxy fatty acids (HFAs) on dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC) model membranes was monitored only as a function of chain length and position of the attached hydroxyl group. Second, racemic vs. enantiopure anteiso fatty acids (AFAs) and HFAs were investigated to address the question of which role does a fatty acid's chirality play on its membrane pertubing effect. The DSC thermograms revealed that the main gel to liquid-crystalline phase transition of the DMPC bilayers which results in a disordering effect of the lipid hydrocarbon chains was affected in different ways depending on the nature of the incorporated fatty acid. Long-chain 2- and 3-HFAs stabilized the gel phase by reducing the phase transition temperature (T(m)), whereas short-chain HFAs and long-chain HFAs with the hydroxy group remote from the head group stabilized the more disordered liquid-crystalline state. Additionally, we observed that enantiopure (S)-14-methylhexadecanoic acid ((S)-a17:0) and (R)-2-hydroxy octadecanoic acid and the corresponding racemates had contrary effects upon incorporation into DMPC bilayers. In both cases, the pure enantiomers alleviated the liquid-crystalline state of the biological model membrane.     

Direct observation of domains in model stratum corneum lipid mixtures by Raman microspectroscopy

Several studies on intact and model stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, have suggested the presence of crystalline domains. In the present work, we used micro-Raman mapping to detect lipid domains in model lipid mixtures formed by an equimolar mixture of ceramides, cholesterol, and palmitic acid, the three main lipid species of SC. We were able to determine the spatial distribution of the three compounds individually based on the systematic analysis of band areas. As a control, we studied freeze-dried lipid mixtures, and the Raman microspectroscopy reported faithfully the homogeneous distribution of the three compounds. Spectral mapping was then performed on hydrated equimolar mixtures carefully annealed. In this case, clear phase separations were observed. Domains enriched in cholesterol, ceramides, or palmitic acid with a size of a few tens of square microns were detected. These findings constitute the first direct evidence of the formation of heterogeneous domains in the SC lipid models in a bulk phase. Raman microspectroscopy is an innovative approach to characterize the conditions leading to the formation of domains and provides new insights into the understanding of the skin barrier.     

Effect of ceramide acyl chain length on skin permeability and thermotropic phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Stratum corneum ceramides play an essential role in the barrier properties of skin. However, their structure-activity relationships are poorly understood. We investigated the effects of acyl chain length in the non-hydroxy acyl sphingosine type (NS) ceramides on the skin permeability and their thermotropic phase behavior. Neither the long- to medium-chain ceramides (8-24 C) nor free sphingosine produced any changes of the skin barrier function. In contrast, the short-chain ceramides decreased skin electrical impedance and increased skin permeability for two marker drugs, theophylline and indomethacin, with maxima in the 4-6C acyl ceramides. The thermotropic phase behavior of pure ceramides and model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesterol sulfate was studied by differential scanning calorimetry and infrared spectroscopy. Differences in thermotropic phase behavior of these lipids were found: those ceramides that had the greatest impact on the skin barrier properties displayed the lowest phase transitions and formed the least dense model stratum corneum lipid membranes at 32°C. In conclusion, the long hydrophobic chains in the NS-type ceramides are essential for maintaining the skin barrier function. However, this ability is not shared by their short-chain counterparts despite their having the same polar head structure and hydrogen bonding ability.     

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.     

Investigation of the interaction between modified ISCOMs and stratum corneum lipid model systems

The modified ISCOMs, so-called Posintro™ nanoparticles, provide an opportunity for altering the surface charge of the particles, which influences their affinity for the negatively charged antigen sites, cell membranes and lipids in the skin. Hypothetically, this increases the passage of the ISCOMs (or their components) and their load through the stratum corneum. The subsequent increase in the uptake by the antigen-presenting cells results in enhanced transcutaneous immunization. To understand the nature of penetration of Posintro™ nanoparticles into the intercorneocyte space of the stratum corneum, the interaction between the nanoparticles and lipid model systems in form of liposomes and/or supported lipid bilayer was studied. As a lipid model we used Stratum Corneum Lipid (SCL), a mixture similar in composition to the lipids of the intercorneocyte space. By Förster Resonance Energy Transfer (FRET), Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), Electrochemical Impedance Spectroscopy (EIS) and cryo-Transmission Electron Microscopy (cryo-TEM) it was shown that application of nanoparticles to the SCL bilayers results in lipid disturbance. Investigation of this interaction by means of Isothermal Titration Calorimetry (ITC) confirmed existence of an enthalpically unfavorable reaction. All these methods demonstrated that the strength of electrostatic repulsion between the negatively charged SCL and the nanoparticles affected their interaction, as decreasing the negative charge of the Posintro™ nanoparticles leads to enhanced disruption of lipid organization.