Ethanol effects on the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior.

The stratum corneum is considered to be the diffusional barrier of mammalian skin for water and most solutes. The intercellular lipid multilayer domains of the stratum corneum are believed to be the diffusional pathway for most lipophilic solutes. Fluidization of the lipid multilayers in the presence of ethanol is frequently conceived to result in enhanced permeation. Current investigations address the effect of ethanol on the phase behavior in terms of stratum corneum lipid alkyl chain packing, mobility and conformational order as measured by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Phospholipid multilamellar vesicles were also studied as model systems. There appeared to be no effect of ethanol on either the solid-solid phase transition or the gel phase interchain coupling of the stratum corneum lipids. However, there was a reduction in the mobility of the alkyl chains in the presence of ethanol. Possible mechanistic relationships between the current FTIR spectroscopic results with available literature data of ethanol induced lipophilic solute penetration enhancement through the skin are discussed.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: Lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while α-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified ω-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T₂) at a slightly lower temperature (68 °C) than human skin (74 °C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy: a chemometric approach for studying the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum

The barrier function of skin resides in the lipid components of the stratum corneum, particularly their spatial organisation. FTIR spectroscopy has already been used as a relevant tool to study this lipid organisation: IR vibration band shifts have been attributed to the variations in lipid organisation induced by temperature. Our study included a stratum corneum model, composed of the three main lipids: palmitic acid as an example of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramide III as an example of ceramide. Different films with various ratios of these lipids were studied. In our analytical strategy, the interest of using a chemometric analysis of global data obtained from ATR-FTIR spectra to highlight the main interactions involved in the molecular organisation of lipids has been demonstrated. Two kinds of interaction between the three main lipids have been shown: a non polar interaction between the long hydrocarbon chains and a polar interaction as the hydrogen bonding between polar functional groups. By varying the lipid ratio, we have shown first that the relative importance of each interaction was modified, second, that the induced modification of organisation can be detected by chemometric analysis of the ATR-FTIR spectra. The role of each kind of lipid in the organisation has been discussed. In conclusion, associating the ATR-FTIR with chemometric treatment is a promising tool: firstly, to understand the consequence of lipid relative compositions on the structural organisation of the stratum corneum, secondly, to show the relationship between lipid organisation and percutaneous penetration data. Indeed, this methodology will be transposed to in vivo studies with IR measurements through a probe.     

The roles of ABCA12 in epidermal lipid barrier formation and keratinocyte differentiation

ATP-binding cassette (ABC) transporters form a large superfamily of transporters that bind and hydrolyze ATP to transport various molecules across limiting membranes or into vesicles. The ABCA subfamily members are thought to transport lipid materials. ABCA12 is a keratinocyte transmembrane lipid transporter protein associated with the transport of lipids via lamellar granules. ABCA12 is considered to transport lipids including ceramides to form extracellular lipid layers in the stratum corneum of the epidermis, which is essential for skin barrier function. ABCA12 mutations are known to underlie the three major types of autosomal recessive congenital ichthyoses: harlequin ichthyosis, lamellar ichthyosis and congenital ichthyosiform erythroderma. ABCA12 mutations result in defective lipid transport via lamellar granules in the keratinocytes, leading to ichthyosis phenotypes from malformation of the stratum corneum lipid barrier. Studies on ABCA12-deficient bioengineered models have revealed that lipid transport by ABCA12 is required for keratinocyte differentiation and epidermal morphogenesis. Defective lipid transport due to loss of ABCA12 function leads to the accumulation of intracellular lipids, including glucosylceramides and gangliosides, in the epidermal keratinocytes. The accumulation of gangliosides seems to result in the apoptosis of Abca12^−/− keratinocytes. It was reported that AKT activation occurs in Abca12^−/− granular-layer keratinocytes, which suggests that AKT activation serves to prevent the cell death of Abca12^−/− keratinocytes. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

Spectral monitoring of photoirradiated skin lipids: MS and IR approaches

An investigation of the effects of UV(A) irradiation on the stratum corneum lipids was carried out in vitro on films. The modifications of their conformational order were studied by FTIR and the formation of new entities was detected by mass spectroscopy. The results show not only differences in behaviour of the three lipid classes (fatty acids (FA), ceramides (CER), and cholesterol), but also variation within a class, depending on the molecules structure. Upon UV(A) irradiation, beta scission occurs on all the components, saturated and unsaturated. Moreover, unsaturated FA or CER having a double bond on their FA moiety may become saturated or may be transformed into their free radical form. Unsaturated FA are more sensitive to UV(A) and lead more easily to oxygenated components than unsaturated CER. The chemical effects are irradiation dose dependent but do not deeply influence the supramolecular organisation of these lipids. The global conformation of the lipids stays in an orthorhombic state, a decrease of the packing density however is observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

The stratum corneum lipid thermotropic phase behavior.

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of mammalian skin, is considered the least permeable skin layer to the diffusion of water and other solutes. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid multilayer domain is the diffusional pathway for most lipophilic solutes. Fluidization of the lipid multilayers is believed to result in the loss of barrier properties of the stratum corneum. Current investigations address the lipid thermotropic phase behavior in terms of lipid alkyl chain packing, mobility and conformational order as measured by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. A solid-solid phase transition is observed with increased alkyl chain mobility followed by a gel to liquid-crystalline phase transition near 65 degrees C. These results further elucidate the role of lipid fluidity that may contribute to the transport properties of the stratum corneum.     

Percutaneous Penetration Modifiers and Formulation Effects: Thermal and Spectral Analyses

The study investigated the formulation effects of laurocapram and iminosulfurane derived penetration modifiers on human stratum corneum using thermal and spectral analyses. Firstly, formulations of penetration modifiers were assessed as enhancers/retardants using the model permeant, diethyl-m-toluamide followed by investigation of their mechanisms of action using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and attenuated total reflectance Fourier-transform infra-red spectroscopy. The penetration modifiers investigated were laurocapram, 3-dodecanoyloxazolidin-2-one (N-0915), S,S-dimethyl-N-(4-bromobenzoyl) iminosulfurane (DMBIS), S,S-dimethyl-N-(2-methoxycarbonylbenzenesulfonyl) iminosulfurane (DMMCBI) and tert-butyl 1-dodecyl-2-oxoazepan-3-yl-carbamate (TBDOC) that were formulated in either water, propylene glycol (PG), ethanol or polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400). The results explain the mechanism for the first time why an enhancer can become a retardant or vice versa depending upon the vehicle in which it is applied to the skin. DSC indicated that penetration modifier formulations enhanced permeation of active mainly by disruption and fluidization of the stratum corneum lipid bilayers while IR data indicated characteristic blue shifts with decreases in peak intensity. On the other hand, DSC of penetration modifier formulations showing retardation depicted elevated T _m2 with a strengthening of lipid–protein complex while IR results indicated formation of multiple peaks around 1,738 cm⁻¹ transition in stratum corneum spectra suggesting retardation may be caused by organization of SC lipids by increased H-bonding.     

Ethanol perturbs lipid organization in models of stratum corneum membranes: An investigation combining differential scanning calorimetry, infrared and (2)H NMR spectroscopy

Ethanol is used in a variety of topical products. It is known to enhance the permeability of the skin by altering the ability of the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular membranes to form an effective barrier. In addition, ethanol and other alcohols are key components of antiseptic gels currently used for hand wash. Using infrared and deuterium NMR spectroscopy as well as calorimetry, we have investigated the effect of ethanol on a model membrane composed of lipids representing the three classes of SC lipids, an equimolar mixture of N-palmitoylsphingosine (ceramide), palmitic acid and cholesterol. Ethanol is found to influence the membrane in a dose dependent manner, disrupting packing and increasing lipid motion at low concentrations and selectively extracting lipids at moderate concentrations.     

Ethanol perturbs lipid organization in models of stratum corneum membranes: An investigation combining differential scanning calorimetry,infrared and 2H NMR spectroscopy

Ethanol is used in a variety of topical products. It is known to enhance the permeability of the skin by altering the ability of the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular membranes to form an effective barrier. In addition, ethanol and other alcohols are key components of antiseptic gels currently used for hand wash. Using infrared and deuterium NMR spectroscopy as well as calorimetry, we have investigated the effect of ethanol on a model membrane composed of lipids representing the three classes of SC lipids, an equimolar mixture of N-palmitoylsphingosine (ceramide), palmitic acid and cholesterol. Ethanol is found to influence the membrane in a dose dependent manner, disrupting packing and increasing lipid motion at low concentrations and selectively extracting lipids at moderate concentrations.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 °C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 °C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

The important role of epidermal triacylglycerol metabolism for maintenance of the skin permeability barrier function

Survival in a terrestrial, dry environment necessitates a permeability barrier for regulated permeation of water and electrolytes in the cornified layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) to minimize desiccation of the body. This barrier is formed during cornification and involves a cross-linking of corneocyte proteins as well as an extensive remodeling of lipids. The cleavage of precursor lipids from lamellar bodies by various hydrolytic enzymes generates ceramides, cholesterol, and non-esterified fatty acids for the extracellular lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum. However, the important role of epidermal triacylglycerol (TAG) metabolism during formation of a functional permeability barrier in the skin was only recently discovered. Humans with mutations in the ABHD5/CGI-58 (α/β hydrolase domain containing protein 5, also known as comparative gene identification-58, CGI-58) gene suffer from a defect in TAG catabolism that causes neutral lipid storage disease with ichthyosis. In addition, mice with deficiencies in genes involved in TAG catabolism (Abhd5/Cgi-58 knock-out mice) or TAG synthesis (acyl-CoA:diacylglycerol acyltransferase-2, Dgat2 knock-out mice) also develop severe skin permeability barrier dysfunctions and die soon after birth due to increased dehydration. As a result of these defects in epidermal TAG metabolism, humans and mice lack ω-(O)-acylceramides, which leads to malformation of the cornified lipid envelope of the skin. In healthy skin, this epidermal structure provides an interface for the linkage of lamellar membranes with corneocyte proteins to maintain permeability barrier homeostasis. This review focuses on recent advances in the understanding of biochemical mechanisms involved in epidermal neutral lipid metabolism and the generation of a functional skin permeability barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 degrees C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 degrees C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

ω-O-Acylceramides but not ω-hydroxy ceramides are required for healthy lamellar phase architecture of skin barrier lipids

Epidermal omega-O-acylceramides (ω-O-acylCers) are essential components of a competent skin barrier. These unusual sphingolipids with ultralong N-acyl chains contain linoleic acid esterified to the terminal hydroxyl of the N-acyl, the formation of which requires the transacylase activity of patatin-like phospholipase domain containing 1 (PNPLA1). In ichthyosis with dysfunctional PNPLA1, ω-O-acylCer levels are significantly decreased, and ω-hydroxylated Cers (ω-OHCers) accumulate. Here, we explore the role of the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers in the assembly of the skin lipid barrier. Ultrastructural studies of skin samples from neonatal Pnpla1^+/+ and Pnpla1^-/- mice showed that the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers is essential for lamellar pairing in lamellar bodies, as well as for stratum corneum lipid assembly into the long periodicity lamellar phase. To further study the molecular details of ω-O-acylCer deficiency on skin barrier lipid assembly, we built in vitro lipid models composed of major stratum corneum lipid subclasses containing either ω-O-acylCer (healthy skin model), ω-OHCer (Pnpla1^-/- model), or combination of the two. X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies indicated that ω-OHCers could not substitute for ω-O-acylCers, although in favorable conditions, they form a medium lamellar phase with a 10.8 nm-repeat distance and permeability barrier properties similar to long periodicity lamellar phase. In the absence of ω-O-acylCers, skin lipids were prone to separation into two phases with diminished barrier properties. The models combining ω-OHCers with ω-O-acylCers indicated that accumulation of ω-OHCers does not prevent ω-O-acylCer-driven lamellar stacking. These data suggest that ω-O-acylCer supplementation may be a viable therapeutic option in patients with PNPLA1 deficiency.     

The Lipid Organisation of the Skin Barrier: Liquid and Crystalline Domains Coexist in Lamellar Phases

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.