Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305–315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm^?2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.     

Infrared spectroscopy studies of mixtures prepared with synthetic ceramides varying in head group architecture: Coexistence of liquid and crystalline phases

The barrier function of the skin is provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) are present in SC and form highly ordered crystalline lipid lamellae. These lamellae are crucial for a proper skin barrier function. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to examine the lipid organization of mixtures prepared from synthetic CERs with CHOL and FFAs. The conformational ordering and lateral packing of these mixtures showed great similarities to the lipid organization in SC and lipid mixtures prepared with native CERs. Therefore, mixtures with synthetic CERs serve as an excellent tool for studying the effect of molecular architecture of CER subclasses on the lipid phase behavior. In SC the number of OH-groups in the head groups of CER subclasses varies. Furthermore, acylCERs with a linoleic acid chemically bound to a long acyl chain are also identified. The present study revealed that CER head group architecture affects the lateral packing and conformational ordering of the CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures. Furthermore, while the majority of the lipids form a crystalline packing, the linoleate moiety of the acylCERs participates in a “pseudo fluid” phase.     

The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC) plays a fundamental role in the barrier function of the skin. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. The main lipid classes in the lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to examine the effect of the chain length of FFAs on the thermotropic phase behavior and mixing properties of SC lipids. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman imaging spectroscopy were used to study the mixing properties using either protonated or deuterated FFAs. We selected SC model lipid mixtures containing only a single CER, CHOL and either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs mimicking the FFA SC composition. The single CER consists of a sphingoid base with 18 carbon atoms and an acyl chain with a chain length of 24 carbon atoms. When using lignoceric acid (24 carbon atoms) or a mixture of FFAs, the CER and FFAs participated in mixed crystals, but hydration of the mixtures induced a slight phase separation between CER and FFA. The mixed crystalline structures did not phase separate during storage even up to a time period of 3 months. When using palmitic acid (16 carbon atoms), a slight phase separation was observed between FFA and CER. This phase separation was clearly enhanced during hydration and storage. In conclusion, the thermotropic phase behavior and the mixing properties of the SC lipid mixtures were shown to strongly depend on the chain length and chain length distribution of FFAs, while hydration enhanced the phase separation.     

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.     

sPLA2 and the epidermal barrier

The mammalian epidermis provides both an interface and a protective barrier between the organism and its environment. Lipid, processed into water-impermeable bilayers between the outermost layers of the epidermal cells, forms the major barrier that prevents water from exiting the organism, and also prevents toxins and infectious agents from entering. The secretory phospholipase 2 (sPLA2) enzymes control important processes in skin and other organs, including inflammation and differentiation. sPLA2 activity contributes to epidermal barrier formation and homeostasis by generating free fatty acids, which are required both for formation of lamellar membranes and also for acidification of the stratum corneum (SC). sPLA2 is especially important in controlling SC acidification and establishment of an optimum epidermal barrier during the first postnatal week. Several sPLA2 isoforms are present in the epidermis. We find that two of these isoforms, sPLA2 IIA and sPLA2 IIF, localize to the upper stratum granulosum and increase in response to experimental barrier perturbation. sPLA2F^−/− mice also demonstrate a more neutral SC pH than do their normal littermates, and their initial recovery from barrier perturbation is delayed. These findings confirm that sPLA2 enzymes perform important roles in epidermal development, and suggest that the sPLA2IIF isoform may be central to SC acidification and barrier function. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

Determination of molecular conformation and permeation in skin via IR spectroscopy, microscopy, and imaging

Skin tissue, in addition to its specific use in dermal research, provides an excellent model for developing the techniques of vibrational microscopy and imaging for biomedical applications. In addition to permitting characterization of various regions of skin, the relative paucity of major biological constituents in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin), permits us to image, with microscopic resolution, conformational alterations and concentration variations in both the lipid and protein components. Thus we are able to monitor the effects of exogenous materials such as models for drug delivery agents (liposomes) and permeation enhancers (DMSO) on stratum corneum lipid organization and protein structure. In addition, we are able to monitor protein conformational changes in single corneocytes. The current article demonstrates these procedures, ranging from direct univariate measures of lipid chain conformational disorder, to factor analysis which permits us to image conformational differences between liposomes that have permeated through the stratum corneum from those which have remained on the surface in a reservoir outside the skin.     

New insights into the structure and hydration of a stratum corneum lipid model membrane by neutron diffraction

The structure and hydration of a stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membrane composed of N-(-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER6)/cholesterol (Ch)/palmitic acid (PA)/cholesterol sulfate (ChS) were characterized by neutron diffraction. The neutron scattering length density across the SC lipid model membrane was calculated from measured diffraction peak intensities. The internal membrane structure and water distribution function across the bilayer were determined. The low hydration of the intermembrane space is a major feature of the SC lipid model membrane. The thickness of the water layer in the SC lipid model membrane is about 1 Å at full hydration. For the composition 55% CER6/25% Ch/15% PA/5% ChS, in a partly dehydrated state (60% humidity) and at 32°C, the lamellar repeat distance and the membrane thickness have the same value of 45.6 Å . The hydrophobic region of the membrane has a thickness of 31.2 Å . A decrease of the Ch content increases the membrane thickness. The water diffusion through the SC lipid model multilamellar membrane is a considerably slow process relative to that through phospholipid membranes. In excess water, the membrane hydration follows an exponential law with two characteristic times of 93 and 44 min. At 81°C and 97% humidity, the membrane separates into two phases with repeat distances of 45.8 and 40.5 Å . Possible conformations of CER6 molecules in the dry and hydrated multilayers are discussed.     

Acyl-CoA binding protein and epidermal barrier function

The acyl-CoA binding protein (ACBP) is a 10 kDa intracellular protein expressed in all eukaryotic species and mammalian tissues investigated. It binds acyl-CoA esters with high specificity and affinity and is thought to act as an intracellular transporter of acyl-CoA esters between different enzymatic systems; however, the precise function remains unknown. ACBP is expressed at relatively high levels in the epidermis, particularly in the suprabasal layers, which are highly active in lipid synthesis. Targeted disruption of the ACBP gene in mice leads to a pronounced skin and fur phenotype, which includes tousled and greasy fur, development of alopecia and scaling of the skin with age. Furthermore, epidermal barrier function is compromised causing a ~ 50% increase in transepidermal water loss relative to that of wild type mice. Lipidomic analyses indicate that this is due to significantly reduced levels of non-esterified very long chain fatty acids in the stratum corneum of ACBP^−/− mice. Here we review the current knowledge of ACBP with special focus on the function of ACBP in the epidermal barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

Physical and chemical perturbations of the supramolecular organization of the stratum corneum lipids: In vitro to ex vivo study

Background: FTIR spectroscopy is classically used to study the supramolecular organization of the stratum corneum lipids. Exposure to UV_A is responsible for a small decrease in packing observed on cutaneous lipid films. Methods: Lipid films and human skin biopsies were either exposed to UV_A irradiation of 120 J/cm², UV_B irradiation of 0.15 J/cm² or put in contact with ethanol. Using FTIR in vitro and IR microspectroscopy ex vivo provided information on: i) the precise localisation of the stratum corneum in the skin, ii) its thickness, and iii) the organization of its constituted lipids. Results: Different action modes were observed for UV irradiation and the contact with ethanol with a certain destabilisation of the lipidic layer. Ethanol was also found to be responsible for the creation of pores. The destabilisation of the lipid cement was mainly observed ex vivo. Conclusion: The barrier function of the skin is affected by the action of physical and chemical external agents at the molecular level. The increased laxity of the lipid packing could enable the percutaneous penetration velocity of actives.     

PPARalpha gene expression is up-regulated by LXR and PXR activators in the small intestine

LXR, PXR, and PPARα are members of a nuclear receptor family which regulate the expression of genes involved in lipid metabolism. Here, we show the administration of T0901317 stimulates PPARα gene expression in the small intestine but not in the liver of both normal and FXR-null mice. The administration of LXR specific ligand GW3965, or PXR specific ligand PCN has the same effect, indicating that ligand-dependent activation of LXR and PXR, but not FXR, is responsible for the increased gene expression of PPARα in the mouse small intestine.     

Participation of interferons in psoriatic inflammation

Interferons are multifunctional cytokines not expressed in the skin under normal physiological conditions. However, they are overexpressed in serum and skin lesions of patients with psoriasis and play an important role in the pathogenesis of the disease. Interferons act directly on skin resident cells and recruit and modulate inflammatory cells, thereby exacerbating psoriatic inflammation. They upregulate the expression of relevant cytokines and chemokines, facilitate excessive proliferation of keratinocytes, and enhance the formation of poorly differentiated dermal microvessels. In this review, we summarized the pathogenic effect of interferons on psoriasis and also discussed the therapeutic strategies targeting interferons.     

Enrichment of epidermal stem cells by rapid adherence and analysis of the reciprocal interaction of epidermal stem cells with neighboring cells using an organotypic system

Keratinocytes have the ability to adhere to extracellular matrix rapidly. With this in mind, in this study we isolated keratinocytes known as rapidly adhering (RA) cells. To compare epidermal regenerative abilities, skin substitutes were reconstructed by adding keratinocytes or RA cells to two groups of bioengineered dermis made by fibroblasts and hair follicle dermal cells respectively. After transplantation, the results illustrated that the skin substitutes including RA cells were integrated into the host tissue. Furthermore, with hair follicle dermal cells' influences, the RA cells could form structures very similar to normal hair follicles. These results indicate that RA cells are predominately comprised of epidermal stem cells. The results also demonstrated that besides the reciprocal interaction of epidermal stem cells with dermal cells, the interaction of epidermal stem cells with keratinocytes were critical in epidermis morphogenesis and self-renewal, and application of RA cells could optimize engineering of skin substitutes.     

The 2004 Biophysical Society-Avanti Award in Lipids address: roles of bilayer structure and elastic properties in peptide localization in membranes

This review details how bilayer structural/elastic properties impact three distinct areas of biological significance. First, the partitioning of melittin into bilayers and melittin-induced bilayer leakage depended strongly on bilayer composition. The incorporation of cholesterol into phosphatidylcholine bilayers decreased melittin-induced leakage from 73 to 3%, and bilayers composed of lipopolysaccharide (LPS), the main lipid on the surface of Gram-negative bacteria, also had low (3%) melittin-induced leakage. Second, transbilayer peptides of different hydrophobic lengths were largely excluded from bilayer microdomains (“rafts”) enriched in sphingomyelin (SM) and cholesterol, even when the length of the transbilayer peptide domain matched the hydrocarbon thickness of the raft bilayer. This is likely due to the large area compressibility modulus of SM:cholesterol bilayers. Third, the major water barrier of skin, the extracellular lamellae of the stratum corneum, was found to contain tightly packed asymmetric lipid bilayers with cholesterol located preferentially on one side of the bilayer and a unique skin ceramide containing an unsaturated acyl chain on the opposite side. We argue that, in each of these three areas, key factors are differences in lipid hydrocarbon chain packing for different lipids, particularly the tight hydrocarbon chain packing caused by cholesterol’s strong interaction with saturated chains.     

Ginnalin B induces differentiation markers and modulates the proliferation/differentiation balance via the upregulation of NOTCH1 in human epidermal keratinocytes

The red maple and sugar maple (Acer rubrum and A. saccharum, respectively) contain acertannins (ginnalins and maplexins), galloylated derivatives of 1,5-anhydro-d-glucitol (1,5-AG, 1). These compounds have a variety of potential medicinal properties and we have shown that some of them promote the expression of ceramide synthase 3. We now report on the beneficial effects of ginnalin B, (6-O-galloyl-1,5-AG, 5), leading to acceleration of skin metabolism and reduction of the turnover time. Ginnalin B dose-dependently increased the relative amount of keratin 10, keratin 1, and filaggrin gene, with maximal increase of 1.7-, 2.9, and 5.2-fold at 100 μM, respectively. The validation study showed that it had superior capacity to induce multiple stages of keratinocyte differentiation and significantly elevated the immunostaining site of keratin 10 and filaggrin in a 3-dimensional cultured human skin model, by 1.2 and 2.8-fold, respectively. Furthermore, ginnalin B caused the arrest of proliferation at the G₀/G₁ phase but it did not induce apoptotic cell death in normal human keratinocytes. Molecular studies revealed that ginnalin B up-regulated the levels of NOTCH1 and a concomitant increase p21 expression. Ginnalin B, therefore, represents a new class of promising functional and medical cosmetic compound and it could contribute to the maintenance of homeostasis of the epidermis.     

Disruption of epidermal specific gene expression and delayed skin development in AP-2 gamma mutant mice

Summary Sentence: Conditional ablation of AP-2γ results in a delay in skin development and abnormal expression of p63, K14, K1, filaggrin, repetin and secreted Ly6/Plaur domain containing 1, key genes required for epidermal development and differentiation.The development of the epidermis, a stratified squamous epithelium, is dependent on the regulated differentiation of keratinocytes. Differentiation begins with the initiation of stratification, a process tightly controlled through proper gene expression. AP-2γ is expressed in skin and previous research suggested a pathway where p63 gene induction results in increased expression of AP-2γ, which in turn is responsible for induction of K14. This study uses a conditional gene ablation model to further explore the role of AP-2γ in skin development. Mice deficient for AP-2γ exhibited delayed expression of p63, K14, and K1, key genes required for development and differentiation of the epidermis. In addition, microarray analysis of E16.5 skin revealed delayed expression of additional late epidermal differentiation genes: filaggrin, repetin and secreted Ly6/Plaur domain containing 1, in mutant mice. The genetic delay in skin development was further confirmed by a functional delay in the formation of an epidermal barrier. These results document an important role for AP-2γ in skin development, and reveal the existence of regulatory factors that can compensate for AP-2γ in its absence.     

Assessment of penetration of quantum dots through in vitro and in vivo human skin using the human skin equivalent model and the tape stripping method

Quantum dots (QDs) are rapidly emerging as an important class of nanoparticles (NPs) with potential applications in medicine. However, little is known about penetration of QDs through human skin. This study investigated skin penetration of QDs in both in vivo and in vitro human skin. Using the tape stripping method, this study demonstrates for the first time that QDs can actually penetrate through the stratum corneum (SC) of human skin. Transmission electron microscope (TEM) and energy diverse X-ray (EDX) analysis showed accumulation of QDs in the SC of a human skin equivalent model (HSEM) after dermal exposure to QDs. These findings suggest possible transdermal absorption of QDs after dermal exposure over a relatively long period of time.     

Role of lipids in the formation and maintenance of the cutaneous permeability barrier

The major function of the skin is to form a barrier between the internal milieu and the hostile external environment. A permeability barrier that prevents the loss of water and electrolytes is essential for life on land. The permeability barrier is mediated primarily by lipid enriched lamellar membranes that are localized to the extracellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lipid enriched membranes have a unique structure and contain approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids with very little phospholipid. Lamellar bodies, which are formed during the differentiation of keratinocytes, play a key role in delivering the lipids from the stratum granulosum cells into the extracellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Lamellar bodies contain predominantly glucosylceramides, phospholipids, and cholesterol and following the exocytosis of lamellar lipids into the extracellular space of the stratum corneum these precursor lipids are converted by beta glucocerebrosidase and phospholipases into the ceramides and fatty acids, which comprise the lamellar membranes. The lipids required for lamellar body formation are derived from de novo synthesis by keratinocytes and from extra-cutaneous sources. The lipid synthetic pathways and the regulation of these pathways are described in this review. In addition, the pathways for the uptake of extra-cutaneous lipids into keratinocytes are discussed. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

The thyroid hormone receptors as modulators of skin proliferation and inflammation

We have analyzed the role of the thyroid hormone receptors (TRs) in epidermal homeostasis. Reduced keratinocyte proliferation is found in interfollicular epidermis of mice lacking the thyroid hormone binding isoforms TRα1 and TRβ (KO mice). Similar results were obtained in hypothyroid animals, showing the important role of the liganded TRs in epidermal proliferation. In addition, KO and hypothyroid animals display decreased hyperplasia in response to 12-O-tetradecanolyphorbol-13-acetate. Both receptor isoforms play overlapping functional roles in the skin because mice lacking individually TRα1 or TRβ also present a proliferative defect but not as marked as that found in double KO mice. Defective proliferation in KO mice is associated with reduction of cyclin D1 expression and up-regulation of the cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitors p19 and p27. Paradoxically, ERK and AKT activity and expression of downstream targets, such as AP-1 components, are increased in KO mice. Increased p65/NF-κB and STAT3 phosphorylation and, as a consequence, augmented expression of chemokines and proinflammatory cytokines is also found in these animals. These results show that thyroid hormones and their receptors are important mediators of skin proliferation and demonstrate that TRs act as endogenous inhibitors of skin inflammation, most likely due to interference with AP-1, NF-κB, and STAT3 activation.