Chemical analysis of constitutive pigmentation of human epidermis reveals constant eumelanin to pheomelanin ratio

The skin constitutive pigmentation is given by the amount of melanin pigment, its relative composition (eu/pheomelanin) and distribution within the epidermis, and is largely responsible for the sensitivity to UV exposure. Nevertheless, a precise knowledge of melanins in human skin is lacking. We characterized the melanin content of human breast skin samples with variable pigmentations rigorously classified through the Individual Typology Angle (ITA) by image analysis, spectrophotometry after solubilization with Soluene‐350 and high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) after chemical degradation. ITA and total melanin content were found correlated, ITA and PTCA (degradation product of DHICA melanin), and TTCA (degradation product of benzothiazole‐type pheomelanin) as well but not 4‐AHP (degradation product of benzothiazine‐type pheomelanin). Results revealed that human epidermis comprises approximately 74% of eumelanin and 26% pheomelanin, regardless of the degree of pigmentation. They also confirm the low content of photoprotective eumelanin among lighter skins thereby explaining the higher sensitivity toward UV exposure.     

Usefulness of alkaline hydrogen peroxide oxidation to analyze eumelanin and pheomelanin in various tissue samples: application to chemical analysis of human hair melanins

Eumelanin and pheomelanin in tissue samples can be specifically measured as the markers pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine after acidic permanganate oxidation and hydroiodic acid hydrolysis, respectively. Those degradation methods, although widely applied, are not easily performed in most laboratories. To overcome this difficulty, we developed alkaline H(2)O(2) oxidation in 1 M K(2)CO(3) that produces, in addition to the eumelanin marker PTCA, thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) and thiazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid (TDCA) as markers for pheomelanin and pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA) as a marker for 5,6-dihydroxyindole-derived eumelanin. Those four degradation products can be easily separated by HPLC and analyzed with ultraviolet detection. The alkaline H(2)O(2) oxidation method is simple, reproducible and applicable to all pigmented tissues. Its application to characterize eumelanin and pheomelanin in human hair shows that PTCA and TTCA serve as specific markers for eumelanin and pheomelanin, respectively, although some caution is needed regarding the artificial production of TTCA from eumelanic tissue proteins.     

UVA-induced oxidative degradation of melanins: fission of indole moiety in eumelanin and conversion to benzothiazole moiety in pheomelanin

Eumelanin is photoprotective while pheomelanin is phototoxic to pigmented tissues. Ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced tanning seems to result from the photooxidation of pre-existing melanin and contributes no photoprotection. However, data available for melanin biodegradation remain limited. In this study, we first examined photodegradation of eumelanin and pheomelanin in human black hairs and found that the ratio of Free (formed by peroxidation in situ) to Total (after hydrogen peroxide oxidation) pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) increases with hair aging, indicating fission of the dihydroxyindole moiety. In red hair, the ratio of thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) to 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine (4-AHP) increases with aging, indicating the conversion from benzothiazine to benzothiazole moiety. These photodegradation of melanins were confirmed by UVA (not UVB) irradiation of melanins from mice and human hairs and synthetic eumelanin and pheomelanin. These results show that both eumelanin and pheomelanin degrade by UVA and that Free/Total PTCA and TTCA/4-AHP ratios serve as sensitive indicators of photodegradation.     

A novel LC‐MS/MS method to quantify eumelanin and pheomelanin and their relation to UVR sensitivity – A study on human skin biopsies

Melanin in the skin can be divided into eumelanin and pheomelanin subtypes. Simultaneous quantification of these subtypes could clarify their relation to skin type and skin cancer development. We describe a novel, sensitive liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry method to quantify two eumelanin markers, pyrrole‐2,3,5‐tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole‐2,3‐dicarboxylic acid (PDCA), and two pheomelanin markers, thiazole‐4,5‐dicarboxylic acid (TDCA) and thiazole‐2,4,5 tricarboxylic acid (TTCA), performed in a single run using the same biopsy. Volunteers with either Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) I/II or III/IV (n = 30) each provided a 4‐mm punch biopsy from the buttock. Upon analysis, the FST I + II group had significantly less of all four melanin biomarkers (PTCA, 0.75 ng/mm²; PDCA, 0.08 ng/mm²; TTCA, 0.24 ng/mm²; and TDCA, 0.10 ng/mm²) versus the FST III + IV group (PTCA, 4.89 ng/mm²; PDCA, 0.22 ng/mm²; TTCA, 2.61 ng/mm²; and TDCA, 0.72 ng/mm²), p ≤ 0.003. We find that this new LC‐MS/MS method is sensitive enough to quantify eumelanin and pheomelanin markers even in the lightest skin types.     

Human hair melanins: what we have learned and have not learned from mouse coat color pigmentation

Hair pigmentation is one of the most conspicuous phenotypes in humans. Melanocytes produce two distinct types of melanin pigment: brown to black, indolic eumelanin and yellow to reddish brown, sulfur‐containing pheomelanin. Biochemically, the precursor tyrosine and the key enzyme tyrosinase and the tyrosinase‐related proteins are involved in eumelanogenesis, while only the additional presence of cysteine is necessary for pheomelanogenesis. Other important proteins involved in melanogenesis include P protein, MATP protein, α‐MSH, agouti signaling protein (ASIP), MC1R (the receptor for MSH and ASIP), and SLC7A11, a cystine transporter. Many studies have examined the effects of loss‐of‐function mutations of those proteins on mouse coat color pigmentation. In contrast, much less is known regarding the effects of mutations of the corresponding proteins on human hair pigmentation except for MC1R polymorphisms that lead to pheomelanogenesis. This perspective will discuss what we have/have not learned from mouse coat color pigmentation, with special emphasis on the significant roles of pH and the level of cysteine in melanosomes in controlling melanogenesis. Based on these data, a hypothesis is proposed to explain the diversity of human hair pigmentation.     

Red human hair pheomelanin is a potent pro‐oxidant mediating UV‐independent contributory mechanisms of melanomagenesis

The highest incidence of melanoma in red haired individuals is attributed to the synthesis and phototoxic properties of pheomelanin pigments. Recently, pheomelanin has also been implicated in UV‐independent pathways of oxidative stress; however, the underlying mechanisms have remained uncharted. Herein, we disclose the unprecedented property of purified red human hair pheomelanin (RHP) to promote (i) the oxygen‐dependent depletion of major cell antioxidants, for example glutathione and NADH; (ii) the autoxidative formation of melanin pigments from their precursors. RHP would thus behave as a unique ‘living’ polymer and biocatalyst that may grow by simple exposure to monomer building blocks and may trigger autoxidative processes. These results yield new clues as to the origin of the pro‐oxidant state in the red hair phenotype, uncover non‐enzymatic pathways of melanogenesis, and pave the way to innovative strategies for melanoma prevention.     

The mouse pink-eyed dilution allele of the P-gene greatly inhibits eumelanin but not pheomelanin synthesis

The mouse pink-eyed dilution (p) locus is known to control eumelanin synthesis, melanosome morphology, and tyrosinase activity in melanocytes. However, it has not been fully determined whether the mutant allele, p affects pheomelanin synthesis. Effects of the p allele on eumelanin and phemelanin synthesis were investigated by chemical analysis of dorsal hairs of 5-week-old mice obtained from the F(2) generations (black, pink-eyed black, recessive yellow, pink-eyed recessive yellow, agouti, and pink-eyed agouti) between C57BL/10JHir (B10)-congenic pink-eyed black mice (B10-p/p) and recessive yellow (B10-Mc1r(e)/Mc1r(e)) or agouti (B10-A/A) mice. The eumelanin content was dramatically (>20-fold) decreased in pink-eyed black and pink-eyed agouti mice, whereas the pheomelanin content did not decrease in pink-eyed black, pink-eyed recessive yellow, or pink-eyed agouti mice compared to the corresponding P/- mice. These results suggest that the pink-eyed dilution allele greatly inhibits eumelanin synthesis, but not pheomelanin synthesis.     

Molecular and biochemical mechanisms of human iris color: A comprehensive review

Eye color is determined as a polymorphism and polygenic trait. Brown is the most common eye color in the world, accounting for about 79%, blue eye color for about 8–10%, hazel for 5%, and green for 2%. Rare-colored eyes include gray and red/violet. Different factors are involved in determining eye color. The two most important factors are the iris pigment and the way light is scattered from the iris. Gene expression determines the iris pigmentation and how much melanin is present in the eye, which is the number of melanin subunits that identify eye color. The genes involved in the pigmentation of single-nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) have a significant role; and even some genes are included only in the eye color through SNP. MicroRNAs also affect melanocyte synthesis, which is usually affected by the downregulation of essential genes involved in pigmentation. In this study, we assess the biochemical pathways of melanin synthesis, and the role of each gene in this pathway also has been examined in the signaling pathway that stimulates melanin synthesis.     

Raman spectroscopy as a non‐invasive technique for the quantification of melanins in feathers and hairs

The quantification of melanins is a complex task due to the chemical heterogeneity of the pigments and the difficulty of their isolation. The best accepted procedure currently consists in the chemical cleavage of melanins and the subsequent detection of degradation products by HPLC, which implies the destruction of samples. Here, we show that Raman spectroscopy is a non‐invasive technique that can be used to quantify melanins. We made parallel analyses of the characteristics of pheomelanin and eumelanin Raman spectra as measured by confocal Raman microscopy and of degradation products of pheomelanin (4‐amino‐3‐hydroxyphenylalanine, 4‐AHP) and eumelanin (pyrrole‐2,3,5‐tricarboxylic acid, PTCA) as measured by HPLC in feathers of red‐legged partridges and hairs of wild boars and humans. We found strong correlations between the spectral Raman characteristics and 4‐AHP and PTCA levels, which indicates that the Raman spectra of melanins can be used to determine their content.     

Regulation of eumelanin/pheomelanin synthesis and visible pigmentation in melanocytes by ligands of the melanocortin 1 receptor

The production of melanin in the hair and skin is tightly regulated by the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) whose activation is controlled by two secreted ligands, alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alphaMSH) and agouti signal protein (ASP). As melanin is extremely stable, lasting years in biological tissues, the mechanism underlying the relatively rapid decrease in visible pigmentation elicited by ASP is of obvious interest. In this study, the effects of ASP and alphaMSH on the regulation of melanin synthesis and on visible pigmentation were assessed in normal murine melanocytes and were compared with the quick depigmenting effect of the tyrosinase inhibitor, phenylthiourea (PTU). alphaMSH increased pheomelanin levels prior to increasing eumelanin content over 4 days of treatment. Conversely, ASP switched off the pigment synthesis pathway, reducing eu- and pheo-melanin synthesis within 1 day of treatment that was proportional to the decrease in tyrosinase protein level and activity. These results demonstrate that the visible depigmentation of melanocytes induced by ASP does not require the degradation of existing melanin but rather is due to the dilution of existing melanin by melanocyte turnover, which emphasizes the importance of pigment distribution to visible color.     

The cell biology of human hair follicle pigmentation

Although we have made significant progress in understanding the regulation of the UVR‐exposed epidermal‐melanin unit, we know relatively little about how human hair follicle pigmentation is regulated. Progress has been hampered by gaps in our knowledge of the hair growth cycle’s controls, to which hair pigmentation appears tightly coupled. However, pigment cell researchers may have overly focused on the follicular melanocytes of the nocturnal and UVR‐shy mouse as a proxy for human epidermal melanocytes. Here, I emphasize the epidermis‐follicular melanocyte pluralism of human skin, as research models for vitiligo, alopecia areata and melanoma, personal care/cosmetics innovation. Further motivation could be in finding answers to why hair follicle and epidermal pigmentary units remain broadly distinct? Why melanomas tend to originate from epidermal rather than follicular melanocytes? Why multiple follicular melanocyte sub‐populations exist? Why follicular melanocytes are more sensitive to aging influences? In this perspective, I attempt to raise the status of the human hair follicle melanocyte and highlight some species‐specific issues involved which the general reader of the pigmentation literature (with its substantial mouse‐based data) may not fully appreciate.     

Characterization of melanin in human iridal and choroidal melanocytes from eyes with various colored irides

Variance in iris color is related to the incidence of several important ocular diseases, including uveal melanoma and age-related macular degeneration. The purposes of this study were to determine the quantity and the types of melanin in cultured human uveal melanocytes in relation to the iris color. Sixty-one cell cultures of pure uveal melanocytes were isolated from donor eyes with various iris colors. The amount of eumelanin (EM) and pheomelanin (PM) of these cells was measured by chemical degradation and microanalytical high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) methods. The total amount of melanin was measured by both microanalytical methods and spectrophotometry. Total melanin content, measured by HPLC and spectrophotometry, correlated well with r = 0.872 (P < 0.0001). The quantity and type of melanin in iridal and choroidal melanocytes showed no significant difference (P > 0.05). When cells became senescent, the levels of EM, PM and total melanin were significantly increased. In both growing and senescent melanocytes, the quantity and type of melanin were closely correlated to the iris color. In cells from eyes with dark-colored irides (dark brown and brown), the amount of EM, the ratio of EM/PM and total melanin were significantly greater than that from eyes with light-colored irides (hazel, green, yellow-brown and blue) (P < 0.0001). The quantity of PM in uveal melanocytes from eyes with light-colored irides was slightly greater than that from dark-colored irides, although not statistically significant (P > 0.05). The present study shows that iris color is determined by both the quantity and the type of melanin in uveal melanocytes. These results suggest a possibility that uveal melanin in eyes with dark-colored irides is eumelanic at the surface and acts as an antioxidant while that in eyes with light-colored irides exposes pheomelanic core and behaves as a pro-oxidant.     

Isomeric cysteinyldopas provide a (photo)degradable bulk component and a robust structural element in red human hair pheomelanin

Alkaline H₂O₂ degradation of red hair pheomelanin gave, besides 6‐(2‐amino‐2‐carboxyethyl)‐2‐carboxy‐4‐hydroxybenzothiazole (BTCA), a new product which was identified as 7‐(2‐amino‐2‐carboxyethyl)‐2‐carboxy‐4‐hydroxybenzothiazole (BTCA‐2) originating from 2‐S‐cysteinyldopa (2SCD) derived units. BTCA‐2 was also obtained from a variety of pheomelanic tissues and synthetic pigments. Simultaneous determination of BTCA and BTCA‐2 in segments of red hair locks taken at variable distances from the scalp in a group of 19 individuals indicated an abrupt drop of BTCA yields on passing from root to tip, whereas BTCA‐2 values remained virtually constant throughout hair length. Analysis of 4‐amino‐3‐hydroxyphenylalanine (AHP) and 3‐aminotyrosine (AT) in the same lock segments showed a closely similar trend, whereas yields of thiazole‐2,4,5‐tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) increased with increasing the distance from the scalp. Prolonged exposure of hair locks to sunlight caused a significant decrease in BTCA‐, but not BTCA‐2‐yielding elements. Finally, model studies showed a substantial degradation of 5SCD‐, but not 2SCD‐derived units, during pheomelanin synthesis in vitro. It is concluded that red hair pheomelanin consists of a degradable 5SCD‐derived bulk component associated with stable 2SCD‐derived units. Structural degradation occurs during hair growth probably as a result of oxidative processes related in part to sun exposure.     

Exposure to a competitive social environment activates an epigenetic mechanism that limits pheomelanin synthesis in zebra finches

Competitive environments promote high testosterone levels, produce oxidative stress and, consequently, impair cellular homeostasis. The regulation of genes involved in the synthesis of the pigment pheomelanin in melanocytes seems to help to maintain homeostasis against environmental oxidative stress. Here, we experimentally increased social interactions in some zebra finch (Taeniopygia guttata) males by keeping them in groups of six birds during feather growth, while others were kept alone, to test if melanocytes show epigenetic lability under a competitive social environment. As these changes may depend on the oxidative status, we administrated buthionine sulfoximine (BSO) to decrease the antioxidant capacity of some birds. The competitive environment downregulated a gene involved in pheomelanin synthesis (Slc7a11) by changing the level of DNA methylation in feather melanocytes. In other genes involved in pheomelanin synthesis (Slc45a2, MC1R and AGRP), DNA methylation was also affected, but no changes in expression were detected. Exposure to the competitive environment did not affect systemic oxidative stress and damage, indicating that a protective epigenetic mechanism that changes the expression of Slc7a11 may have been activated. However, no changes to the pigmentation phenotype of birds were found, probably due to the short duration or low intensity of the competitive environment. BSO treatment did not affect the epigenetic mechanism, suggesting that the antioxidant capacity of birds was high enough to deal with the competitive environment. An epigenetic mechanism limiting pheomelanin synthesis therefore becomes activated under exposure to a competitive environment in male zebra finches, which may help to avoid damage caused by competitive interactions.     

Tissue microenvironment and the genetic control of hair pigment patterns in mice

This study was conducted to assess microenvironmental variability within integumental tissue of genetically identical mice with respect to a specific cellular response: cyclic synthesis of yellow and black pigment by hair bulb melanocytes. Crosses were performed within and between inbred strains of mice that were isogenic with the exception of a single gene substitution at the agouti locus. Agouti locus genes included the A^vy, A^w, A, a^td, a^t, a^x, a^m, and a alleles. The pigment patterns of dorsal, flank, and ventral hairs of the first and third hair generations and of hairs growing in special integumentary areas such as the pinna, tail, and hind foot were studied. It was found that the amount of yellow pigment synthesized by hair bulb melanocytes within genetically identical mice is both agedependent and conditioned by the integumentary environment. Furthermore, the special integumentary regions produce hairs with a variety of pigment patterns in which the distribution and relative amounts of black and yellow pigments do not necessarily conform to dominance relationships expected among agouti locus alleles as judged by their effects on the pigmentation of the dorsal pelage. We conclude that within genetically uniform integumental tissues, microenvironmental differences occur and are reflected as alterations in the metabolic pattern of differentiated cells.     

Determination of copper and zinc levels in human hair

The Cu and Zn levels of both 607 men (1–85 y old) and 649 women (1–92 y old) were determined by atomic absorption spectrometry. Sex does not influence Cu (14.89±0.89 μg/g and 15.26±0.79 μg/g hair for males and females, respectively) and Zn contents (200.97±9.68 μg/g for men and 209.81±9.49 μg/g hair for women). Age influences Cu and Zn concentrations, but only significantly in females: Cu levels decrease over 60 y of age; whereas Zn levels increase significantly from age groups 2–5 to 20–40 years. Hair color influences Cu concentrations in both males and females. In males, white hair containes less Cu than black hair; in females, white hair's Cu levels are significantly lower than those of dark blond, red, light brown, and brown hair. There are no significant differences in Zn concentrations with respect to different hair colors, in either males or females.     

Analysis of structural changes in bleached keratin fibers (black and white human hair) using Raman spectroscopy

To investigate the influence of bleaching treatments on keratin fibers, the structure of cross-sections at various depths of bleached human hair (black and white human hair) was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. The S-S band intensity existing from the cuticle region to the center of cortex region of virgin white human hair decreased, while the S-O band intensity at 1040 cm(-1), assigned to cysteic acid, increased by performing the bleaching treatment. Especially, the S-O band intensity of the cuticle region increased remarkably compared with that of the cortex region. Also, the amide III (unordered) band intensity in the cortex region increased, indicating that some of the proteins existing throughout the cortex region changed to the random coil form. Moreover, it has been found that the S-S band intensity existing from the cuticle region to the center of the cortex region of the virgin black human hair decreased remarkably, while the S-O band intensity increased significantly compared with that of the virgin white human hair by performing the bleaching treatment. From these experiments, we concluded that the melanin granules including metal ions act as a decomposition accelerator for the oxidizing agent, thereby leading to a higher level of disulfide (-SS-) group cleavage in the black human hair compared with that of the white human hair.     

A preliminary study of steroid reproductive hormones in human hair

Nowadays research and clinical studies of human reproductive endocrinology are generally carried out using human blood reproductive hormone assays. However the acquisition of human blood samples has some shortcomings. In search of new approaches, we paid attention to the fact that progesterone can be detected in cow's hair. Consequently we investigated whether or not steroid hormones are measurable in human hair. The results showed that the levels of steroid hormones in hair are not affected by shampoo and do not significantly vary between different segments of hair (i.e. top, middle and basal segments). The menstrual estradiol and progesterone rhythm of female hair is similar to that of female serum. The ratio of hair estradiol to serum estradiol in the female is 41.2% and that of hair progesterone to serum progesterone is 59.0%; the ratio of hair testosterone to serum testosterone in male is 116%. There are significant correlations between hair and serum steroid hormones of healthy human adult: γ (estradiol)=0.395 (n=20), p<0.05; γ (progesterone)=0.440 (n=22), p<0.025 and γ (testosterone)=0.395 (n=25), p<0.05.