Lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides closely mimic the unique stratum corneum lipid phase behavior

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, form the main barrier for the diffusion of molecules through the skin. The presence of a unique 13 nm lamellar phase and its high crystallinity are characteristic for the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. In the present study, small-angle and wide-angle X-ray diffraction were used to examine the organization in lipid mixtures prepared with a unique set of well-defined synthetic ceramides, varying from each other in head group architecture and acyl chain length. The results show that equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and synthetic ceramides (resembling the composition of pig ceramides) closely resemble the lamellar and lateral stratum corneum lipid organization, both at room and higher temperatures. Exclusion of several ceramide classes from the mixture does not affect the lipid organization. However, complete substitution of ceramide 1 (acylceramide with a sphingosine base) with ceramide 9 (acylceramide with a phytosphingosine base) reduces the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase. This indicates that the head group architecture of acylceramides affects the lipid organization. In conclusion, lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides offer an attractive tool with which to unravel the importance of the molecular structure of individual ceramides for proper lipid organization.     

Phase behavior of stratum corneum lipids in mixed Langmuir-Blodgett monolayers.

The lipids found in the bilayers of the stratum corneum fulfill the vital barrier role of mammalian bodies. The main classes of lipids found in stratum corneum are ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. For an investigation of their phase behavior, mixed Langmuir-Blodgett monolayers of these lipids were prepared. Atomic force microscopy was used to investigate the structure of the monolayers as a function of the monolayer composition. Three different types of ceramide were used: ceramide extracted from pigskin, a commercially available ceramide with several fatty acid chain lengths, and two synthetic ceramides that have only one fatty acid chain length. In pigskin ceramide-cholesterol mixed monolayers phase separation was observed. This phase separation was also found for the commercially available type III Sigma ceramide-cholesterol mixed monolayers with molar ratios ranging from 1:0.1 to 1:1. These monolayers separated into two phases, one composed of the long fatty acid chain fraction of Sigma ceramide III and the other of the short fatty acid chain fraction of Sigma ceramide III mixed with cholesterol. Mixtures with a higher cholesterol content consisted of only one phase. These observations were confirmed by the results obtained with synthetic ceramides, which have only one fatty acid chain length. The synthetic ceramide with a palmitic acid (16:0) chain mixed with cholesterol, and the synthetic ceramide with a lignoceric acid (24:0) chain did not. Free fatty acids showed a preference to mix with one of these phases, depending on their fatty acid chain lengths. The results of this investigation suggest that the model system used in this study is in good agreement with those of other studies concerning the phase behavior of the stratum corneum lipids. By varying the composition of the monolayers one can study the role of each lipid class in detail.     

Effect of cholesterol on miscibility and phase behavior in binary mixtures with synthetic ceramide 2 and octadecanoic acid. Infrared studies

The three main lipid components of the stratum corneum, namely ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, play a fundamental role in the maintenance of the skin barrier. The current investigation is aimed toward understanding the miscibility and intermolecular interactions of these lipids. Toward this end, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopic studies of the three possible equimolar binary mixtures of cholesterol, a synthetic non-hydroxylated fatty acid N-acyl sphingosine with a C18 chain length (N-stearoylsphingosine, approximating human ceramide 2), and stearic acid were undertaken. The thermotropic responses of the methylene stretching and scissoring vibrations were used to evaluate chain conformation and packing respectively. Selective perdeuteration, of either the stearic acid or the ceramide acid chains, permitted separate and simultaneous evaluation of the conformational order and packing properties of the sphingosine chain, the amide linked fatty acid chains and/or the stearic acid chain. Whereas cholesterol mixed well with ceramide at physiological temperatures, the stearic acid was miscible with the cholesterol only at relatively high temperatures where the fatty acid is disordered. A complex interaction between stearic acid and ceramide was detected. A separate fatty acid-rich phase persisted until at least 50 degrees C, whereas at higher temperatures the components appear to be quite miscible. However, a preferential association of the fatty acid with the ceramide base chain is indicated. None of the binary systems studied exhibit miscibility and interactions resembling those in the ternary mixtures of these substances, which is widely used to model stratum corneum. The role of cholesterol in controlling the miscibility characteristics in the ternary system is evident.     

Optimization of submerged keratinocyte cultures for the synthesis of barrier ceramides

Epidermal differentiation results in the formation of the extracellular lipid barrier in the stratum corneum, which mainly consists of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. Differentiating keratinocytes of the stratum granulosum synthesize a series of complex long-chain ceramides and glucosylceramides with different chain lengths and hydroxylation patterns at intracellular membranes of the secretory pathway. Formation of complex extracellular ceramides parallels the transition of keratinocytes from the stratum granulosum to the stratum corneum, where their precursors, complex glucosylceramides and sphingomyelin, are secreted and exposed to extracellular lysosomal lipid hydrolases. Submerged cultures used so far showed a reduced ceramide content compared to the native epidermis or the air-exposed, organotypic culture system. In order to investigate the sphingolipid metabolism during keratinocyte differentiation, we optimized a simple cell culture system to generate the major barrier sphingolipids. This optimized model is based on the chemically well-defined serum-free MCDB medium. At low calcium ion concentrations (0.1mM), keratinocytes proliferate and synthesize mainly Cer(NS) and a small amount of Cer(NP). Supplementation of the MCDB cell culture medium with calcium ions (1.1mM) and 10 microM linoleic acid triggered differentiation of keratinocytes and synthesis of a complex pattern of free and covalently bound ceramides as found in native epidermis or air-exposed organotypic cultures, though at a reduced level. The mRNA levels of the differentiation markers keratin 10 and profilaggrin increased, as well as those of ceramide glucosyltransferase and glucosylceramide-beta-glucosidase. The described culture system was thus suitable for biochemical studies of the sphingolipid metabolism during keratinocyte differentiation. The addition of serum or vitamin A to the medium resulted in a decrease in ceramide and glucosylceramide content. Lowering the medium pH to 6, while maintained cell viability, led to an increase in the processing of probarrier lipids glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin to free ceramides and protein-bound ceramide Cer(OS).     

Effect of ceramide acyl chain length on skin permeability and thermotropic phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Stratum corneum ceramides play an essential role in the barrier properties of skin. However, their structure-activity relationships are poorly understood. We investigated the effects of acyl chain length in the non-hydroxy acyl sphingosine type (NS) ceramides on the skin permeability and their thermotropic phase behavior. Neither the long- to medium-chain ceramides (8-24 C) nor free sphingosine produced any changes of the skin barrier function. In contrast, the short-chain ceramides decreased skin electrical impedance and increased skin permeability for two marker drugs, theophylline and indomethacin, with maxima in the 4-6C acyl ceramides. The thermotropic phase behavior of pure ceramides and model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesterol sulfate was studied by differential scanning calorimetry and infrared spectroscopy. Differences in thermotropic phase behavior of these lipids were found: those ceramides that had the greatest impact on the skin barrier properties displayed the lowest phase transitions and formed the least dense model stratum corneum lipid membranes at 32°C. In conclusion, the long hydrophobic chains in the NS-type ceramides are essential for maintaining the skin barrier function. However, this ability is not shared by their short-chain counterparts despite their having the same polar head structure and hydrogen bonding ability.     

Structure of the skin barrier and its modulation by vesicular formulations

The natural function of the skin is to protect the body from unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. Since the lipids regions in the stratum corneum form the only continuous structure, substances applied onto the skin always have to pass these regions. For this reason the organization in the lipid domains is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid phase behavior is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum crystalline phases are predominantly present, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Both the crystalline nature and the presence of a 13 nm lamellar phase are considered to be crucial for the skin barrier function. Since it is impossible to selectively extract individual lipid classes from the stratum corneum, the lipid organization has been studied in vitro using isolated lipid mixtures. These studies revealed that mixtures prepared with isolated stratum corneum lipids mimic to a high extent stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. This indicates that proteins do not play an important role in the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. Furthermore, it was noticed that mixtures prepared only with ceramides and cholesterol already form the 13 nm lamellar phase. In the presence of free fatty acids the lattice density of the structure increases. In stratum corneum the ceramide fraction consists of various ceramide subclasses and the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase is also affected by the ceramide composition. Particularly the presence of ceramide 1 is crucial. Based on these findings a molecular model has recently been proposed for the organization of the 13 nm lamellar phase, referred to as "the sandwich model", in which crystalline and liquid domains coexist. The major problem for topical drug delivery is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Therefore, several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily and locally. One of the approaches is the application of drugs in formulations containing vesicles. In order to unravel the mechanisms involved in increasing the drug transport across the skin, information on the effect of vesicles on drug permeation rate, the permeation pathway and perturbations of the skin ultrastructure is of importance. In the second part of this paper the possible interactions between vesicles and skin are described, focusing on differences between the effects of gel-state vesicles, liquid-state vesicles and elastic vesicles.     

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy: a chemometric approach for studying the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum

The barrier function of skin resides in the lipid components of the stratum corneum, particularly their spatial organisation. FTIR spectroscopy has already been used as a relevant tool to study this lipid organisation: IR vibration band shifts have been attributed to the variations in lipid organisation induced by temperature. Our study included a stratum corneum model, composed of the three main lipids: palmitic acid as an example of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramide III as an example of ceramide. Different films with various ratios of these lipids were studied. In our analytical strategy, the interest of using a chemometric analysis of global data obtained from ATR-FTIR spectra to highlight the main interactions involved in the molecular organisation of lipids has been demonstrated. Two kinds of interaction between the three main lipids have been shown: a non polar interaction between the long hydrocarbon chains and a polar interaction as the hydrogen bonding between polar functional groups. By varying the lipid ratio, we have shown first that the relative importance of each interaction was modified, second, that the induced modification of organisation can be detected by chemometric analysis of the ATR-FTIR spectra. The role of each kind of lipid in the organisation has been discussed. In conclusion, associating the ATR-FTIR with chemometric treatment is a promising tool: firstly, to understand the consequence of lipid relative compositions on the structural organisation of the stratum corneum, secondly, to show the relationship between lipid organisation and percutaneous penetration data. Indeed, this methodology will be transposed to in vivo studies with IR measurements through a probe.     

The Lipid Organisation of the Skin Barrier: Liquid and Crystalline Domains Coexist in Lamellar Phases

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.     

Integrity and barrier function of the epidermis critically depend on glucosylceramide synthesis

Ceramides are vital components of the water barrier in mammalian skin. Epidermis-specific, a major ceramide portion contains omega-hydroxy very long chain fatty acids (C30-C36). These omega-hydroxy ceramides (Cers) are found in the extracellular lamellae of the stratum corneum either as linoleic acyl esters or protein bound. Glucosylceramide is the major glycosphingolipid of the epidermis. Synthesized from ceramide and UDP-glucose, it is thought to be itself an intracellular precursor and carrier for extracellular omega-hydroxy ceramides. To investigate whether GlcCer is an obligatory intermediate in ceramide metabolism to maintain epidermal barrier function, a mouse with an epidermis-specific glucosylceramide synthase (Ugcg) deficiency has been generated. Four days after birth animals devoid of GlcCer synthesis in keratinocytes showed a pronounced desquamation of the stratum corneum and extreme transepidermal water loss leading to death. The stratum corneum appeared as a thick unstructured mass. Lamellar bodies of the stratum granulosum did not display the usual ordered inner structure and were often irregularly arranged. Although the total amount of epidermal protein-bound ceramides remained unchanged, epidermal-free omega-hydroxy ceramides increased 4-fold and omega-hydroxy sphingomyelins, almost not detectable in wild type epidermis, emerged in quantities comparable with lost GlcCer. We conclude that the transient formation of GlcCer is vital for a regular arrangement of lipids and proteins in lamellar bodies and for the maintenance of the epidermal barrier.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum.

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while alpha-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified omega-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T2) at a slightly lower temperature (68 degrees C) than human skin (74 degrees C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: Lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while α-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified ω-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T₂) at a slightly lower temperature (68 °C) than human skin (74 °C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

The role of sphingolipid metabolism in cutaneous permeabilitybarrier formation

The epidermal permeability barrier of mammalian skin is localized in the stratum corneum. Corneocytes are embedded in an extracellular, highly ordered lipid matrix of hydrophobic lipids consisting of about 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% long and very long chain fatty acids. The most important lipids for the epidermal barrier are ceramides. The scaffold of the lipid matrix is built of acylceramides, containing ω-hydroxylated very long chain fatty acids, acylated at the ω-position with linoleic acid. After glucosylation of the acylceramides at Golgi membranes and secretion, the linoleic acid residues are replaced by glutamate residues originating from proteins exposed on the surface of corneocytes. Removal of their glucosyl residues generates a hydrophobic surface on the corneocytes used as a template for the formation of extracellular lipid layers of the water permeability barrier. Misregulation or defects in the formation of extracellular ceramide structures disturb barrier function. Important anabolic steps are the synthesis of ultra long chain fatty acids, their ω-hydroxylation, and formation of ultra long chain ceramides and glucosylceramides. The main probarrier precursor lipids, glucosylceramides and sphingomyelins, are packed in lamellar bodies together with hydrolytic enzymes such as glucosylceramide-β-glucosidase and acid sphingomyelinase and secreted into the intercelullar space between the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum. Inherited defects in the extracellular hydrolytic processing of the probarrier acylglucosylceramides impair epidermal barrier formation and cause fatal diseases: such as prosaposin deficiency resulting in lack of lysosomal lipid binding and transfer proteins, or the symptomatic clinical picture of the “collodion baby” in the absence of glucocerebrosidase. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis

The permeability barrier is required for terrestrial life and is localized to the stratum corneum, where extracellular lipid membranes inhibit water movement. The lipids that constitute the extracellular matrix have a unique composition and are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. Essential fatty acid deficiency results in abnormalities in stratum corneum structure function. The lipids are delivered to the extracellular space by the secretion of lamellar bodies, which contain phospholipids, glucosylceramides, sphingomyelin, cholesterol, and enzymes. In the extracellular space, the lamellar body lipids are metabolized by enzymes to the lipids that form the lamellar membranes. The lipids contained in the lamellar bodies are derived from both epidermal lipid synthesis and extracutaneous sources. Inhibition of cholesterol, fatty acid, ceramide, or glucosylceramide synthesis adversely affects lamellar body formation, thereby impairing barrier homeostasis. Studies have further shown that the elongation and desaturation of fatty acids is also required for barrier homeostasis. The mechanisms that mediate the uptake of extracutaneous lipids by the epidermis are unknown, but keratinocytes express LDL and scavenger receptor class B type 1, fatty acid transport proteins, and CD36. Topical application of physiologic lipids can improve permeability barrier homeostasis and has been useful in the treatment of cutaneous disorders.     

The permeability enhancing mechanism of DMSO in ceramide bilayers simulated by molecular dynamics

The lipids of the topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, represent the primary barrier to molecules penetrating the skin. One approach to overcoming this barrier for the purpose of delivery of active molecules into or via the skin is to employ chemical permeability enhancers, such as dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). How these molecules exert their effect at the molecular level is not understood. We have investigated the interaction of DMSO with gel-phase bilayers of ceramide 2, the predominant lipid in the stratum corneum, by means of molecular dynamics simulations. The simulations satisfactorily reproduce the phase behavior and the known structural parameters of ceramide 2 bilayers in water. The effect of DMSO on the gel-phase bilayers was investigated at various concentrations over the range 0.0-0.6 mol fraction DMSO. The DMSO molecules accumulate in the headgroup region and weaken the lateral forces between the ceramides. At high concentrations of DMSO (> or =0.4 mol fraction), the ceramide bilayers undergo a phase transition from the gel phase to the liquid crystalline phase. The liquid-crystalline phase of ceramides is expected to be markedly more permeable to solutes than the gel phase. The results are consistent with the experimental evidence that high concentrations of DMSO fluidize the stratum corneum lipids and enhance permeability.     

Improved procedure for the separation of major stratum corneum lipids by means of automated multiple development thin-layer chromatography

The separation of the major stratum corneum lipids, i.e., ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol and its esters by means of high-performance thin-layer chromatography is hereby presented. The used automated multiple development technique allows the reproducible development of a 17-step solvent gradient also capable of separating seven ceramide classes in the same run. Reliable quantification has been performed after visualisation and densitometric scanning. The present approach is less time and solvent-consuming than previously described procedures. The application to samples obtained by in vivo skin surface extraction with hexane-ethanol (2:1) demonstrates that the method can be routinely used for diagnostic purposes.     

Human stratum corneum lipid organization as observed by atomic force microscopy on Langmuir-Blodgett films

The barrier function of skin ultimately depends on the physical state and structural organisation of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. Ceramides, cholesterol and a broad distribution of saturated long-chain free fatty acids dominate the stratum corneum lipid composition. Additionally, smaller amounts of cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate may be present. A key feature determining skin barrier capacity is thought to be whether or not different lipid domains coexist laterally in the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. In this study, the overall tendency for lipid domain formation in different mixtures of extracted human stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate were studied using atomic force microscopy (AFM) on Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) films on mica. It is shown that the saturated long-chain free fatty acid distribution of human stratum corneum prevents hydrocarbon chain segregation. Further, LB-films of human stratum corneum ceramides express a pattern of connected elongated domains with a granular domain interface. The dominating effect of both cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate is that of increased ceramide domain dispersion. This effect is counteracted by the presence of free fatty acids, which preferentially mix with ceramides and not with cholesterol. Cholesteryl oleate does not mix with other skin lipid components, supporting the hypothesis of an extra-endogenous origin. In the system composed of endogenous human ceramides and cholesterol plus 15 wt% stratum corneum distributed free fatty acids, i.e., the system mimicking most closely the lipid composition of the stratum corneum extracellular space, LB-films on mica express lateral domain formation.     

Infrared spectroscopy studies of mixtures prepared with synthetic ceramides varying in head group architecture: Coexistence of liquid and crystalline phases

The barrier function of the skin is provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) are present in SC and form highly ordered crystalline lipid lamellae. These lamellae are crucial for a proper skin barrier function. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to examine the lipid organization of mixtures prepared from synthetic CERs with CHOL and FFAs. The conformational ordering and lateral packing of these mixtures showed great similarities to the lipid organization in SC and lipid mixtures prepared with native CERs. Therefore, mixtures with synthetic CERs serve as an excellent tool for studying the effect of molecular architecture of CER subclasses on the lipid phase behavior. In SC the number of OH-groups in the head groups of CER subclasses varies. Furthermore, acylCERs with a linoleic acid chemically bound to a long acyl chain are also identified. The present study revealed that CER head group architecture affects the lateral packing and conformational ordering of the CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures. Furthermore, while the majority of the lipids form a crystalline packing, the linoleate moiety of the acylCERs participates in a “pseudo fluid” phase.     

Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations

The lipids of mammalian stratum corneum are known to be important regulators of skin permeability. Since the human stratum corneum displays remarkable regional variations in skin permeability, we assessed the total lipid concentration, the distribution of all major lipid species, and the fatty acid composition in Bligh-Dyer extracts from four skin sites (abdomen, leg, face, and sole) that are known to display widely disparate permeability. Statistically significant differences in lipid weight were found at the four sites that were inversely proportional to their known permeability. In all four sites, among the polar lipids, the stratum corneum contained negligible phospholipids, but substantially more cholesterol sulfate (1-7%) than previously appreciated. As in the stratum corneum from other mammals, the bulk of the lipids consisted of neutral (60-80%) and sphingolipids (15-35%). Of the neutral lipids, free sterols (4- to 5-times greater than esterified sterols), free fatty acids, triglycerides, and highly nonpolar species (n-alkanes and squalene) predominated. n-Alkanes, which were present in greater quantities than previously appreciated, comprised a homologous series of odd- and even-chained compounds ranging from C19 to C34. The sphingolipids comprised over 80% ceramides vs. lesser quantities of glycosphingolipids. In all four sites, the sphingolipids were the major repository of long-chain, saturated fatty acids. The neutral lipid:sphingolipid ratio generally was proportional to the known permeability of each site: higher neutral lipids and lower sphingolipids generally were associated with superior barrier properties. These studies provide: 1) the first detailed, quantitative analysis of human stratum corneum lipids and 2) information about the variability in lipid composition at four skin sites with known differences in permeability. The latter results suggest that variations in neutral lipids, rather than sphingolipids, may underlie local variations in skin permeability.