Role of ceramide structure and its microenvironment on the conformational order of model stratum corneum lipids mixtures: an approach by FTIR spectroscopy

The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of ceramide head group architecture and free fatty acid (another main class of stratum corneum lipids) or protein (keratin), on the lamellar organization of the ceramide auto-associated in model films mimicking lipid organization within the stratum corneum. FTIR spectroscopy is a powerful technique for investigating the structure of such systems. This technique has already been used to characterize phase transitions of the SC and of related model systems. As temperature is known to modify the conformational order of lipids, we used it as a variable parameter to monitor the differences in the conformational stability of ceramides. Our study included four ceramides: ceramide 2, 3, 5 and 6 which differ by their head group architecture. Two kinds of lipid-lipid interactions were studied: non-polar and polar. We noted some structural factors which participated to the organizational behavior: insaturation of alkyl chain, alpha-hydroxyl on fatty acid moiety and sphingosine or phytosphingosine head group. There is a direct interaction of palmitic acid on alkyl chains organization and a weak interaction with polar head group in presence of keratin, both provoking a destabilization of the ceramidic orthorhombic organization.     

Structure of the skin barrier and its modulation by vesicular formulations

The natural function of the skin is to protect the body from unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. Since the lipids regions in the stratum corneum form the only continuous structure, substances applied onto the skin always have to pass these regions. For this reason the organization in the lipid domains is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid phase behavior is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum crystalline phases are predominantly present, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Both the crystalline nature and the presence of a 13 nm lamellar phase are considered to be crucial for the skin barrier function. Since it is impossible to selectively extract individual lipid classes from the stratum corneum, the lipid organization has been studied in vitro using isolated lipid mixtures. These studies revealed that mixtures prepared with isolated stratum corneum lipids mimic to a high extent stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. This indicates that proteins do not play an important role in the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. Furthermore, it was noticed that mixtures prepared only with ceramides and cholesterol already form the 13 nm lamellar phase. In the presence of free fatty acids the lattice density of the structure increases. In stratum corneum the ceramide fraction consists of various ceramide subclasses and the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase is also affected by the ceramide composition. Particularly the presence of ceramide 1 is crucial. Based on these findings a molecular model has recently been proposed for the organization of the 13 nm lamellar phase, referred to as "the sandwich model", in which crystalline and liquid domains coexist. The major problem for topical drug delivery is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Therefore, several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily and locally. One of the approaches is the application of drugs in formulations containing vesicles. In order to unravel the mechanisms involved in increasing the drug transport across the skin, information on the effect of vesicles on drug permeation rate, the permeation pathway and perturbations of the skin ultrastructure is of importance. In the second part of this paper the possible interactions between vesicles and skin are described, focusing on differences between the effects of gel-state vesicles, liquid-state vesicles and elastic vesicles.     

The Lipid Organisation of the Skin Barrier: Liquid and Crystalline Domains Coexist in Lamellar Phases

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.     

The permeability enhancing mechanism of DMSO in ceramide bilayers simulated by molecular dynamics

The lipids of the topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, represent the primary barrier to molecules penetrating the skin. One approach to overcoming this barrier for the purpose of delivery of active molecules into or via the skin is to employ chemical permeability enhancers, such as dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). How these molecules exert their effect at the molecular level is not understood. We have investigated the interaction of DMSO with gel-phase bilayers of ceramide 2, the predominant lipid in the stratum corneum, by means of molecular dynamics simulations. The simulations satisfactorily reproduce the phase behavior and the known structural parameters of ceramide 2 bilayers in water. The effect of DMSO on the gel-phase bilayers was investigated at various concentrations over the range 0.0-0.6 mol fraction DMSO. The DMSO molecules accumulate in the headgroup region and weaken the lateral forces between the ceramides. At high concentrations of DMSO (> or =0.4 mol fraction), the ceramide bilayers undergo a phase transition from the gel phase to the liquid crystalline phase. The liquid-crystalline phase of ceramides is expected to be markedly more permeable to solutes than the gel phase. The results are consistent with the experimental evidence that high concentrations of DMSO fluidize the stratum corneum lipids and enhance permeability.     

Phase behavior of stratum corneum lipids in mixed Langmuir-Blodgett monolayers.

The lipids found in the bilayers of the stratum corneum fulfill the vital barrier role of mammalian bodies. The main classes of lipids found in stratum corneum are ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. For an investigation of their phase behavior, mixed Langmuir-Blodgett monolayers of these lipids were prepared. Atomic force microscopy was used to investigate the structure of the monolayers as a function of the monolayer composition. Three different types of ceramide were used: ceramide extracted from pigskin, a commercially available ceramide with several fatty acid chain lengths, and two synthetic ceramides that have only one fatty acid chain length. In pigskin ceramide-cholesterol mixed monolayers phase separation was observed. This phase separation was also found for the commercially available type III Sigma ceramide-cholesterol mixed monolayers with molar ratios ranging from 1:0.1 to 1:1. These monolayers separated into two phases, one composed of the long fatty acid chain fraction of Sigma ceramide III and the other of the short fatty acid chain fraction of Sigma ceramide III mixed with cholesterol. Mixtures with a higher cholesterol content consisted of only one phase. These observations were confirmed by the results obtained with synthetic ceramides, which have only one fatty acid chain length. The synthetic ceramide with a palmitic acid (16:0) chain mixed with cholesterol, and the synthetic ceramide with a lignoceric acid (24:0) chain did not. Free fatty acids showed a preference to mix with one of these phases, depending on their fatty acid chain lengths. The results of this investigation suggest that the model system used in this study is in good agreement with those of other studies concerning the phase behavior of the stratum corneum lipids. By varying the composition of the monolayers one can study the role of each lipid class in detail.     

Lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides closely mimic the unique stratum corneum lipid phase behavior

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, form the main barrier for the diffusion of molecules through the skin. The presence of a unique 13 nm lamellar phase and its high crystallinity are characteristic for the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. In the present study, small-angle and wide-angle X-ray diffraction were used to examine the organization in lipid mixtures prepared with a unique set of well-defined synthetic ceramides, varying from each other in head group architecture and acyl chain length. The results show that equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and synthetic ceramides (resembling the composition of pig ceramides) closely resemble the lamellar and lateral stratum corneum lipid organization, both at room and higher temperatures. Exclusion of several ceramide classes from the mixture does not affect the lipid organization. However, complete substitution of ceramide 1 (acylceramide with a sphingosine base) with ceramide 9 (acylceramide with a phytosphingosine base) reduces the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase. This indicates that the head group architecture of acylceramides affects the lipid organization. In conclusion, lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides offer an attractive tool with which to unravel the importance of the molecular structure of individual ceramides for proper lipid organization.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum.

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while alpha-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified omega-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T2) at a slightly lower temperature (68 degrees C) than human skin (74 degrees C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: Lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while α-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified ω-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T₂) at a slightly lower temperature (68 °C) than human skin (74 °C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

Translating chemometric analysis into physiological insights from in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy of the human stratum corneum

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions and acts as a protective barrier for the body against water loss, toxic agents and microorganisms. As most substances permeate the stratum corneum through the lipid regions, lipid organization is considered crucial for the skin barrier function. Here, we investigate the potential of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to describe the composition and organization of the SC. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is finding increasing use in the characterization of skin in biomedical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. In this work, we analyze the spectra using chemometric methods and obtain principal components that correspond to the primary skin constituents: protein (keratin), natural moisturizing factor (NMF), water and lipid contributions in both ordered (orthorhombic) and disordered structural organization. By identifying these important components of the SC, these results highlight the utility of this in vivo, non-invasive, and depth resolved tool at the forefront of skin research.     

Human epidermal lipids: characterization and modulations during differentiation

Using thin-layer chromatography and glass capillary gas-liquid chromatography, we have quantitated the lipids in the germinative, differentiating, and fully cornified layers in human epidermis. As previously noted in nonhuman species, we found progressive depletion of phospholipids coupled with repletion of sterols and sphingolipids during differentiation. The sphingolipids, present only in small quantities in the lower epidermis, accounted for about 20% of the lipid in the stratum corneum, and were the major repository for the long-chain fatty acids that predominate in the outer epidermis. Although the absolute quantities of sphingolipids increased in the outer epidermis, the glycolipid:ceramide ratio diminished in the stratum corneum, and glycolipids virtually disappeared in the outer stratum corneum. Squalene and n-alkanes were distributed evenly in all epidermal layers, suggesting that these hydrocarbons are not simply of environmental or pilosebaceous origin. Cholesterol sulfate, previously considered only a trace metabolite in epidermis, was found in significant quantities, with peak levels immediately beneath the stratum corneum in the stratum granulosum. These studies: 1) provide new quantitative data about human epidermal lipids; 2) implicate certain classes of lipids for specific functions of the stratum corneum; and, 3) shed light on possible product-precursor relationships of these lipids.     

Stratum corneum lipid phase transitions and water barrier properties

In mammals, the outer skin layer, the stratum corneum, is the ultimate barrier to water loss. In order to relate barrier function to stratum corneum structure, samples from porcine skin were investigated by using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), infrared (IR) spectroscopy, and water permeability techniques. Results of DSC and IR studies show that stratum corneum lipids undergo thermal transitions between 60 and 80 degrees C similar to lipid thermotropic transitions seen in a variety of synthetic and biological membranes. Results of water flux experiments performed under conditions similar to those of the DSC and IR studies show an abrupt change in permeability at about 70 degrees C. At low temperatures, water flux values are similar to those obtained for human skin in vivo, yielding an activation energy of 17 kcal/mol, in excellent agreement with values obtained for water flux through a variety of lipid biomembranes. In contrast, at temperatures above about 70 degrees C, water flux is characterized by an activation energy only slightly higher than that of free diffusion, suggesting that the stratum corneum offers little diffusional resistance under these conditions. These combined results suggest that increased disorder in stratum corneum lipid structure, brought about by thermotropic transitions, results in dramatically altered diffusional resistance of this tissue to water flux. Thus, as found for numerous biological membranes, water flux and lipid order in porcine stratum corneum are inversely related.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Sphingosylphosphorylcholine is upregulated in the stratum corneum of patients with atopic dermatitis

To clarify the functional relevance of sphingomyelin (SM) deacylase to the ceramide deficiency seen in atopic dermatitis (AD), we developed a new highly sensitive method and measured the metabolic intermediate sphingosylphosphorylcholine (SPC) that accumulates in the stratum corneum. SPC in intercellular lipids extracted from stratum corneum was reacted with [(14)C]acetic anhydride to yield [(14)C-C(2)]SM, which was then analyzed by TLC. In both the lesional and non-lesional stratum corneum obtained from patients with AD, there was a significant increase in the content of SPC over that of healthy control subjects. There was a reciprocal relationship between increases in SPC and decreases in ceramide levels of stratum corneum obtained from healthy controls, and from lesional and non-lesional skin from patients with AD. Comparison with other sphingolipids present in the stratum corneum demonstrated that there is a significant positive correlation between SPC and glucosylsphingosine, another lysosphingolipid derived from glucosylceramide by another novel epidermal enzyme, termed glucosylceramide deacylase. In contrast, there was no correlation between SPC and sphingosine, a degradative product generated from ceramide by ceramidase. These findings strongly suggest the physiological relevance of SM deacylase function in vivo to the ceramide deficiency found in the skin of patients with AD.     

Human stratum corneum lipid organization as observed by atomic force microscopy on Langmuir-Blodgett films

The barrier function of skin ultimately depends on the physical state and structural organisation of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. Ceramides, cholesterol and a broad distribution of saturated long-chain free fatty acids dominate the stratum corneum lipid composition. Additionally, smaller amounts of cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate may be present. A key feature determining skin barrier capacity is thought to be whether or not different lipid domains coexist laterally in the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. In this study, the overall tendency for lipid domain formation in different mixtures of extracted human stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate were studied using atomic force microscopy (AFM) on Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) films on mica. It is shown that the saturated long-chain free fatty acid distribution of human stratum corneum prevents hydrocarbon chain segregation. Further, LB-films of human stratum corneum ceramides express a pattern of connected elongated domains with a granular domain interface. The dominating effect of both cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate is that of increased ceramide domain dispersion. This effect is counteracted by the presence of free fatty acids, which preferentially mix with ceramides and not with cholesterol. Cholesteryl oleate does not mix with other skin lipid components, supporting the hypothesis of an extra-endogenous origin. In the system composed of endogenous human ceramides and cholesterol plus 15 wt% stratum corneum distributed free fatty acids, i.e., the system mimicking most closely the lipid composition of the stratum corneum extracellular space, LB-films on mica express lateral domain formation.     

Molecular properties of a stratum corneum model lipid system: large unilamellar vesicles.

Stratum corneum lipids are relatively complex, and there is little detailed understanding of their chemical and physical properties at the molecular level. Large unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) with lipid compositions similar to those of stratum corneum were prepared at pH 9 with commercially available lipids. This system was used as a model system for molecular studies of stratum corneum lipids. LUVs were chosen as the model system as they are comparatively more stable and can be characterized more quantitatively in terms of lipid concentration, surface area, and volume than model systems such as lipid mixture suspensions, lipid films, and small unilamellar vesicles. Results from freeze-fracture and cryo electron microscopy studies of our LUVs showed spherical vesicles. Quasi-elastic light scattering measurements revealed a narrow size distribution, centering around 119 nm. At room temperature, the LUVs were stable for several weeks at pH 9 and for more than 15 h but less than 24 h at pH 6. Differential scanning calorimetry measurements indicated broad endothermic transitions centered near 60-65 degrees C, closely matching the transition temperature reported for stratum corneum lipid extracts. Spin probes, 5-doxylstearic acid and 12-doxylstearic acid, were used for electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) studies of the molecular dynamics of the lipids. EPR results indicated more restricted motion near the polar headgroup region than near the center of the alkyl chain region. Motional profiles of the spin labels near the polar headgroup and within the alkyl chain region in the LUVs were obtained as a function of temperature, ranging from 25 to 90 degrees C. We also found that the partitioning between the lipid and aqueous phases for each spin probe was temperature dependent and was generally correlated with phase transitions observed by differential scanning calorimetry and with alkyl chain mobility observed by EPR. Thus, this LUV system is well suited for additional molecular studies under different experimental conditions.     

Effect of cholesterol on miscibility and phase behavior in binary mixtures with synthetic ceramide 2 and octadecanoic acid. Infrared studies

The three main lipid components of the stratum corneum, namely ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, play a fundamental role in the maintenance of the skin barrier. The current investigation is aimed toward understanding the miscibility and intermolecular interactions of these lipids. Toward this end, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopic studies of the three possible equimolar binary mixtures of cholesterol, a synthetic non-hydroxylated fatty acid N-acyl sphingosine with a C18 chain length (N-stearoylsphingosine, approximating human ceramide 2), and stearic acid were undertaken. The thermotropic responses of the methylene stretching and scissoring vibrations were used to evaluate chain conformation and packing respectively. Selective perdeuteration, of either the stearic acid or the ceramide acid chains, permitted separate and simultaneous evaluation of the conformational order and packing properties of the sphingosine chain, the amide linked fatty acid chains and/or the stearic acid chain. Whereas cholesterol mixed well with ceramide at physiological temperatures, the stearic acid was miscible with the cholesterol only at relatively high temperatures where the fatty acid is disordered. A complex interaction between stearic acid and ceramide was detected. A separate fatty acid-rich phase persisted until at least 50 degrees C, whereas at higher temperatures the components appear to be quite miscible. However, a preferential association of the fatty acid with the ceramide base chain is indicated. None of the binary systems studied exhibit miscibility and interactions resembling those in the ternary mixtures of these substances, which is widely used to model stratum corneum. The role of cholesterol in controlling the miscibility characteristics in the ternary system is evident.     

Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations

The lipids of mammalian stratum corneum are known to be important regulators of skin permeability. Since the human stratum corneum displays remarkable regional variations in skin permeability, we assessed the total lipid concentration, the distribution of all major lipid species, and the fatty acid composition in Bligh-Dyer extracts from four skin sites (abdomen, leg, face, and sole) that are known to display widely disparate permeability. Statistically significant differences in lipid weight were found at the four sites that were inversely proportional to their known permeability. In all four sites, among the polar lipids, the stratum corneum contained negligible phospholipids, but substantially more cholesterol sulfate (1-7%) than previously appreciated. As in the stratum corneum from other mammals, the bulk of the lipids consisted of neutral (60-80%) and sphingolipids (15-35%). Of the neutral lipids, free sterols (4- to 5-times greater than esterified sterols), free fatty acids, triglycerides, and highly nonpolar species (n-alkanes and squalene) predominated. n-Alkanes, which were present in greater quantities than previously appreciated, comprised a homologous series of odd- and even-chained compounds ranging from C19 to C34. The sphingolipids comprised over 80% ceramides vs. lesser quantities of glycosphingolipids. In all four sites, the sphingolipids were the major repository of long-chain, saturated fatty acids. The neutral lipid:sphingolipid ratio generally was proportional to the known permeability of each site: higher neutral lipids and lower sphingolipids generally were associated with superior barrier properties. These studies provide: 1) the first detailed, quantitative analysis of human stratum corneum lipids and 2) information about the variability in lipid composition at four skin sites with known differences in permeability. The latter results suggest that variations in neutral lipids, rather than sphingolipids, may underlie local variations in skin permeability.