Reconstructed human epidermis for skin absorption testing: results of the German prevalidation study

Exposure to chemicals absorbed by the skin can threaten human health. In order to standardise the predictive testing of percutaneous absorption for regulatory purposes, the OECD adopted guideline 428, which describes methods for assessing absorption by using human and animal skin. In this study, a protocol based on the OECD principles was developed and prevalidated by using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). The permeation of the OECD standard compounds, caffeine and testosterone, through commercially available RHE models was compared to that of human epidermis and animal skin. In comparison to human epidermis, the permeation of the chemicals was overestimated when using RHE. The following ranking of the permeation coefficients for testosterone was obtained: SkinEthic > EpiDerm, EPISKIN > human epidermis, bovine udder skin, pig skin. The ranking for caffeine was: SkinEthic, EPISKIN > bovine udder skin, EpiDerm, pig skin, human epidermis. The inter-laboratory and intra-laboratory reproducibility was good. Long and variable lag times, which are a matter of concern when using human and pig skin, did not occur with RHE. Due to the successful transfer of the protocol, it is now in the validation process.     

Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations

The lipids of mammalian stratum corneum are known to be important regulators of skin permeability. Since the human stratum corneum displays remarkable regional variations in skin permeability, we assessed the total lipid concentration, the distribution of all major lipid species, and the fatty acid composition in Bligh-Dyer extracts from four skin sites (abdomen, leg, face, and sole) that are known to display widely disparate permeability. Statistically significant differences in lipid weight were found at the four sites that were inversely proportional to their known permeability. In all four sites, among the polar lipids, the stratum corneum contained negligible phospholipids, but substantially more cholesterol sulfate (1-7%) than previously appreciated. As in the stratum corneum from other mammals, the bulk of the lipids consisted of neutral (60-80%) and sphingolipids (15-35%). Of the neutral lipids, free sterols (4- to 5-times greater than esterified sterols), free fatty acids, triglycerides, and highly nonpolar species (n-alkanes and squalene) predominated. n-Alkanes, which were present in greater quantities than previously appreciated, comprised a homologous series of odd- and even-chained compounds ranging from C19 to C34. The sphingolipids comprised over 80% ceramides vs. lesser quantities of glycosphingolipids. In all four sites, the sphingolipids were the major repository of long-chain, saturated fatty acids. The neutral lipid:sphingolipid ratio generally was proportional to the known permeability of each site: higher neutral lipids and lower sphingolipids generally were associated with superior barrier properties. These studies provide: 1) the first detailed, quantitative analysis of human stratum corneum lipids and 2) information about the variability in lipid composition at four skin sites with known differences in permeability. The latter results suggest that variations in neutral lipids, rather than sphingolipids, may underlie local variations in skin permeability.     

Phase behaviour of skin barrier model membranes at pH 7.4.

The main function of the skin is to protect the body against exogenous substances. The skin barrier is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). This layer consists of keratin enriched cells embedded in lipid lamellae that form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. The main lipid classes in this barrier are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Cholesterol sulfate and calcium are also present in SC. Furthermore it has been suggested that a pH gradient exists. In a previous paper the effect of cholesterol sulfate and calcium on the lipid phase behaviour of mixtures prepared from cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids at pH 5 was reported (approximate pH at the skin surface). In the present study the phase behaviour of mixtures prepared from cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids prepared at pH 7.4 (the pH of viable cells) has been examined between 25 and 95 degrees C. Our studies reveal that a reversed hexagonal phase has been formed at elevated temperatures. Addition of calcium inhibits the formation of the reversed hexagonal phase, while cholesterol sulfate promotes the presence of the reversed hexagonal phase at increased temperatures. From our results we can conclude that the lipid mixtures prepared at pH 5 resemble more closely the lipid phase behaviour in intact SC than the lipid mixtures prepared at pH 7.4.     

Effects of sphingomyelin/ceramide ratio on the permeability and microstructure of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

The conversion of sphingomyelin (SM) to a ceramide (Cer) by acid sphingomyelinase (aSMase) is an important event in skin barrier development. A deficiency in aSMase in diseases such as Niemann–Pick disease and atopic dermatitis coincides with impaired skin barrier recovery after disruption. We studied how an increased SM/Cer ratio influences the barrier function and microstructure of model stratum corneum (SC) lipid membranes. In the membranes composed of isolated human SC Cer (hCer)/cholesterol/free fatty acids/cholesteryl sulfate, partial or full replacement of hCer by SM increased water loss. Partial replacement of 25% and 50% of hCer by SM also increased the membrane permeability to theophylline and alternating electric current, while a higher SM content either did not alter or even decreased the membrane permeability. In contrast, in a simple membrane model with only one type of Cer (nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine, CerNS), an increased SM/Cer ratio provided a similar or better barrier against the permeation of various markers. X-ray powder diffraction revealed that the replacement of hCer by SM interferes with the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase with a repeat distance of d = 12.7 nm. Our results suggest that SM-to-Cer processing in the human epidermis is essential for preventing excessive water loss, while the permeability barrier to exogenous compounds is less sensitive to the presence of sphingomyelin.     

Lanolin-derived lipid mixtures mimic closely the lipid composition and organization of vernix caseosa lipids

The aim of the present study was to use semi-synthetic lipid mixtures to mimic the complex lipid composition, organization and thermotropic behaviour of vernix caseosa (VC) lipids. As VC shows multiple protecting and barrier supporting properties before and after birth, it is suggested that a VC substitute could be an innovative barrier cream for barrier deficient skin. Lanolin was selected as the source of the branched chain sterol esters and wax esters — the main lipid classes of VC. Different lipid fractions were isolated from lanolin and subsequently mixed with squalene, triglycerides, cholesterol, ceramides and fatty acids to generate semi-synthetic lipid mixtures that mimic the lipid composition of VC, as established by high-performance thin-layer chromatography. Differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy investigations revealed that triglycerides play an important role in the (lateral) lipid organization and thermotropic behaviour of the synthetic lipid mixtures. Excellent resemblance of VC lipids was obtained when adding unsaturated triglycerides. Moreover, these lipid mixtures showed similar long range ordering as VC. The optimal lipid mixture was evaluated on tape-stripped hairless mouse skin in vivo. The rate of barrier recovery was increased and comparable to VC lipid treatment.     

The in vitro use of the hair follicle closure technique to study the follicular and percutaneous permeation of topically applied drugs

Recent studies on follicular permeation emphasise the importance of hair follicles as diffusion pathways, but only a limited amount of data are available about the follicular permeation of topically applied drugs. This study examines the use of a hair follicle closure technique in vitro, to determine the participation of hair follicles in transdermal drug penetration. Various substances, with different lipophilicities, were tested: caffeine, diclofenac, flufenamic acid, ibuprofen, paracetamol, salicylic acid and testosterone. Diffusion experiments were conducted with porcine skin, the most common replacement material for human skin, in Franz-type diffusion cells over 28 hours. Different experimental settings allowed the differentiation between interfollicular and follicular permeation after topical application of the test compounds. A comparison of the apparent permeability coefficients of the drugs demonstrates that the percutaneous permeations of caffeine and flufenamic acid were significantly higher along the hair follicles. In the cases of paracetamol and testosterone, the follicular pathway appears to be of importance, while no difference was found between interfollicular and follicular permeation for diclofenac, ibuprofen and salicylic acid. Thus, the hair follicle closure technique represents an adequate in vitro method for gaining information about follicular or percutaneous permeation, and can replace in vivo testing in animals or humans.     

Hair follicular expression and function of group X secreted phospholipase A2 in mouse skin

Although perturbed lipid metabolism can often lead to skin abnormality, the role of phospholipase A(2) (PLA(2)) in skin homeostasis is poorly understood. In the present study we found that group X-secreted PLA(2) (sPLA(2)-X) was expressed in the outermost epithelium of hair follicles in synchrony with the anagen phase of hair cycling. Transgenic mice overexpressing sPLA(2)-X (PLA2G10-Tg) displayed alopecia, which was accompanied by hair follicle distortion with reduced expression of genes related to hair development, during a postnatal hair cycle. Additionally, the epidermis and sebaceous glands of PLA2G10-Tg skin were hyperplasic. Proteolytic activation of sPLA(2)-X in PLA2G10-Tg skin was accompanied by preferential hydrolysis of phosphatidylethanolamine species with polyunsaturated fatty acids as well as elevated production of some if not all eicosanoids. Importantly, the skin of Pla2g10-deficient mice had abnormal hair follicles with noticeable reduction in a subset of hair genes, a hypoplasic outer root sheath, a reduced number of melanin granules, and unexpected up-regulation of prostanoid synthesis. Collectively, our study highlights the spatiotemporal expression of sPLA(2)-X in hair follicles, the presence of skin-specific machinery leading to sPLA(2)-X activation, a functional link of sPLA(2)-X with hair follicle homeostasis, and compartmentalization of the prostanoid pathway in hair follicles and epidermis.     

Human stratum corneum lipid organization as observed by atomic force microscopy on Langmuir-Blodgett films

The barrier function of skin ultimately depends on the physical state and structural organisation of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. Ceramides, cholesterol and a broad distribution of saturated long-chain free fatty acids dominate the stratum corneum lipid composition. Additionally, smaller amounts of cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate may be present. A key feature determining skin barrier capacity is thought to be whether or not different lipid domains coexist laterally in the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. In this study, the overall tendency for lipid domain formation in different mixtures of extracted human stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate were studied using atomic force microscopy (AFM) on Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) films on mica. It is shown that the saturated long-chain free fatty acid distribution of human stratum corneum prevents hydrocarbon chain segregation. Further, LB-films of human stratum corneum ceramides express a pattern of connected elongated domains with a granular domain interface. The dominating effect of both cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate is that of increased ceramide domain dispersion. This effect is counteracted by the presence of free fatty acids, which preferentially mix with ceramides and not with cholesterol. Cholesteryl oleate does not mix with other skin lipid components, supporting the hypothesis of an extra-endogenous origin. In the system composed of endogenous human ceramides and cholesterol plus 15 wt% stratum corneum distributed free fatty acids, i.e., the system mimicking most closely the lipid composition of the stratum corneum extracellular space, LB-films on mica express lateral domain formation.     

The important role of epidermal triacylglycerol metabolism for maintenance of the skin permeability barrier function

Survival in a terrestrial, dry environment necessitates a permeability barrier for regulated permeation of water and electrolytes in the cornified layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) to minimize desiccation of the body. This barrier is formed during cornification and involves a cross-linking of corneocyte proteins as well as an extensive remodeling of lipids. The cleavage of precursor lipids from lamellar bodies by various hydrolytic enzymes generates ceramides, cholesterol, and non-esterified fatty acids for the extracellular lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum. However, the important role of epidermal triacylglycerol (TAG) metabolism during formation of a functional permeability barrier in the skin was only recently discovered. Humans with mutations in the ABHD5/CGI-58 (α/β hydrolase domain containing protein 5, also known as comparative gene identification-58, CGI-58) gene suffer from a defect in TAG catabolism that causes neutral lipid storage disease with ichthyosis. In addition, mice with deficiencies in genes involved in TAG catabolism (Abhd5/Cgi-58 knock-out mice) or TAG synthesis (acyl-CoA:diacylglycerol acyltransferase-2, Dgat2 knock-out mice) also develop severe skin permeability barrier dysfunctions and die soon after birth due to increased dehydration. As a result of these defects in epidermal TAG metabolism, humans and mice lack ω-(O)-acylceramides, which leads to malformation of the cornified lipid envelope of the skin. In healthy skin, this epidermal structure provides an interface for the linkage of lamellar membranes with corneocyte proteins to maintain permeability barrier homeostasis. This review focuses on recent advances in the understanding of biochemical mechanisms involved in epidermal neutral lipid metabolism and the generation of a functional skin permeability barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.     

The comparability of in vitro and ex vivo studies on the percutaneous permeation of topical formulations containing Ibuprofen

In order to avoid in vivo experiments and to gain information about the suitability of surrogates for skin replacement, Franz-type diffusion cell experiments were conducted by using three ibuprofen-containing formulations (cream, gel and microgel) on bovine split-skin samples and cellophane membranes. Moreover, ex vivo examinations were performed on the isolated perfused bovine udder, to study the comparability of in vitro and ex vivo experimental set-ups. Depending on the formulation, noticeable differences in the permeation of Ibuprofen occurred in vitro (udder skin) and ex vivo (isolated perfused bovine udder), but not in the cellophane membrane. The rates of ibuprofen permeability (cream > gel > microgel) and adsorption into the skin (gel > microgel > cream) varied with the formulation, and were probably caused by differences in the ingredients. Furthermore, different storage conditions and seasonal variation in the collection of the skin samples probably led to differences in the amounts of ibuprofen adsorption apparent in the isolated bovine udder and udder skin. In vitro diffusion experiments should be preferred to experiments on isolated organs with regard to the costs involved, the throughput, and the intensity of labour required, unless metabolism of the drug in the skin, or cell-cell interactions are of particular interest.     

Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis

The permeability barrier is required for terrestrial life and is localized to the stratum corneum, where extracellular lipid membranes inhibit water movement. The lipids that constitute the extracellular matrix have a unique composition and are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. Essential fatty acid deficiency results in abnormalities in stratum corneum structure function. The lipids are delivered to the extracellular space by the secretion of lamellar bodies, which contain phospholipids, glucosylceramides, sphingomyelin, cholesterol, and enzymes. In the extracellular space, the lamellar body lipids are metabolized by enzymes to the lipids that form the lamellar membranes. The lipids contained in the lamellar bodies are derived from both epidermal lipid synthesis and extracutaneous sources. Inhibition of cholesterol, fatty acid, ceramide, or glucosylceramide synthesis adversely affects lamellar body formation, thereby impairing barrier homeostasis. Studies have further shown that the elongation and desaturation of fatty acids is also required for barrier homeostasis. The mechanisms that mediate the uptake of extracutaneous lipids by the epidermis are unknown, but keratinocytes express LDL and scavenger receptor class B type 1, fatty acid transport proteins, and CD36. Topical application of physiologic lipids can improve permeability barrier homeostasis and has been useful in the treatment of cutaneous disorders.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

Changes in permeability of fetal guinea pig skin during gestation

Permeability of fetal skin to tritiated water was measured in vitro using samples taken from the back and flanks of 21 guinea pig fetuses whose gestational age ranged from 30 to 67 days (term = 68 days). From 30 to 45 days, fetal skin was relatively permeable to water, with a permeability coefficient for unidirectional, diffusional transfer of labelled water that averaged 0.372 +/- 0.041 (SEM) X 10(-4) cm/s. Then during a 5-10 day interval, the measured permeability coefficient decreased abruptly to very low and barely detectable levels. These changes took place at the time during gestation when others have shown the skin becomes keratinized and growth of new hair follicles is completed. Thus these findings are consistent with a relatively free exchange of water between amniotic fluid and fetal interstitium across the skin during the first two-thirds of gestation and then with further maturation an abrupt functional separation between these fluid compartments during the last third of gestation.     

Lipid oxidation in the skin

Abstract

Skin is the largest organ of the body and exerts several physiological functions such as a protective barrier against moisture loss and noxious agents including ultraviolet irradiation. Oxidation of skin may impair such functions and induce skin disorders including photoaging and skin cancer. Skin surface lipids, a mixture of sebaceous and epidermal lipids, have unique species and fatty acid profile. The major unsaturated lipids are squalene, sebaleic aicd, linoleic acid, and cholesterol. Singlet oxygen and ozone as well as free radicals and enzymes are important oxidants for skin lipids. Squalene is the major target for singlet oxygen, giving rise to twelve regio-isomeric squalene hydroperoxides. Ultraviolet radiation activates lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase, inducing specific enzymatic oxidation of lipids. Free radical mediated lipid peroxidation gives multiple oxidation products. Lipid oxidation products produced by these mechanisms are observed in human skin and induce various skin diseases, but in contrast to plasma and other tissues, identification and quantitative measurement of lipid oxidation products in skin are scarce and should be the subjects of future studies.     

Transformation of amnion epithelium into skin and hair follicles

There is increasing interest into the extent to which epithelial differentiation can be altered by mesenchymal influence, and the molecular basis for these changes. In this study, we investigated whether amnion epithelium could be transformed into skin and hair follicles by associating E12.5 to E14.5 mouse amnion from the ROSA 26 strain, with mouse embryonic hair-forming dermis from a wild-type strain. These associations were able to produce fully formed hair follicles with associated sebaceous glands, and skin epidermis. Using beta-galactosidase staining we were able to demonstrate that the follicular epithelium and skin epidermis, but not the associated dermal cells, originated from the amnion. As Noggin and Sonic hedgehog (Shh) were recently shown to be required for early chick ventral skin formation, and able to trigger skin and feather formation from chick amnion, we associated cells engineered to produce those two factors with mouse amnion. In a few cases, we obtained hair buds connected to a pluristratified epithelium; however, the transformation of the amnion was impeded by uncontrolled fibroblastic proliferation. In contrast to an earlier report, none of our control amnion specimens autonomously transformed into skin and hair follicles, indicating that specific influences are necessary to elicit follicle formation from the mouse amnion. The ability to turn amnion into skin and its appendages has practical potential for the tissue engineering of replacement skin, and related biotechnological approaches.     

Effect of ceramide acyl chain length on skin permeability and thermotropic phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Stratum corneum ceramides play an essential role in the barrier properties of skin. However, their structure-activity relationships are poorly understood. We investigated the effects of acyl chain length in the non-hydroxy acyl sphingosine type (NS) ceramides on the skin permeability and their thermotropic phase behavior. Neither the long- to medium-chain ceramides (8-24 C) nor free sphingosine produced any changes of the skin barrier function. In contrast, the short-chain ceramides decreased skin electrical impedance and increased skin permeability for two marker drugs, theophylline and indomethacin, with maxima in the 4-6C acyl ceramides. The thermotropic phase behavior of pure ceramides and model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesterol sulfate was studied by differential scanning calorimetry and infrared spectroscopy. Differences in thermotropic phase behavior of these lipids were found: those ceramides that had the greatest impact on the skin barrier properties displayed the lowest phase transitions and formed the least dense model stratum corneum lipid membranes at 32°C. In conclusion, the long hydrophobic chains in the NS-type ceramides are essential for maintaining the skin barrier function. However, this ability is not shared by their short-chain counterparts despite their having the same polar head structure and hydrogen bonding ability.     

Role for ELOVL3 and fatty acid chain length in development of hair and skin function

Very little is known about the in vivo regulation of mammalian fatty acid chain elongation enzymes as well as the role of specific fatty acid chain length in cellular responses and developmental processes. Here, we report that the Elovl3 gene product, which belongs to a highly conserved family of microsomal enzymes involved in the formation of very long chain fatty acids, revealed a distinct expression in the skin that was restricted to the sebaceous glands and the epithelial cells of the hair follicles. By disruption of the Elovl3 gene by homologous recombination in mouse, we show that ELOVL3 participates in the formation of specific neutral lipids that are necessary for the function of the skin. The Elovl3-ablated mice displayed a sparse hair coat, the pilosebaceous system was hyperplastic, and the hair lipid content was disturbed with exceptionally high levels of eicosenoic acid (20:1). This was most prominent within the triglyceride fraction where fatty acids longer than 20 carbon atoms were almost undetectable. A functional consequence of this is that Elovl3-ablated mice exhibited a severe defect in water repulsion and increased trans-epidermal water loss.     

The role of ceramide chain length distribution on the barrier properties of the skin lipid membranes

The skin barrier function is provided by the stratum corneum (SC). The lipids in the SC are composed of three lipid classes: ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) which form two crystalline lamellar structures. In the present study, we investigate the effect of CER chain length distribution on the barrier properties of model lipid membranes mimicking the lipid composition and organization of SC. The membranes were prepared with either isolated pig CERs (PCERs) or synthetic CERs. While PCERs have a wide chain length distribution, the synthetic CERs are quite uniform in chain length. The barrier properties were examined by means of permeation studies using hydrocortisone as a model drug. Our studies revealed a reduced barrier in lipid membranes prepared with PCERs compared to synthetic CERs. Additional studies revealed that a wider chain length distribution of PCERs results in an enhanced hexagonal packing and increased conformational disordering of the lipid tails compared to synthetic CERs, while the lamellar phases did not change. This demonstrates that the chain length distribution affects the lipid barrier by reducing the lipid ordering and density within the lipid lamellae. In subsequent studies, the effect of increased levels of FFAs or CERs with a long acyl chain in the PCERs membranes was also studied. These changes in lipid composition enhanced the level of orthorhombic packing, reduced the conformational disordering and increased the barrier of the lipid membranes. In conclusion, the CER chain length distribution is an important key factor for maintaining a proper barrier.