Breaking the frontiers of cosmetology with antimicrobial peptides

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are mostly endogenous, cationic, amphipathic polypeptides, produced by many natural sources. Recently, many biological functions beyond antimicrobial activity have been attributed to AMPs, and some of these have attracted the attention of the cosmetics industry. AMPs have revealed antioxidant, self-renewal and pro-collagen effects, which are desirable in anti-aging cosmetics. Additionally, AMPs may also be customized to act on specific cellular targets. Here, we review the recent literature that highlights the many possibilities presented by AMPs, focusing on the relevance and impact that this potentially novel class of active cosmetic ingredients might have in the near future, creating new market outlooks for the cosmetic industry with these molecules as a viable alternative to conventional cosmetics.     

Plant cell culture technology in the cosmetics and food industries: current state and future trends

The production of drugs, cosmetics, and food which are derived from plant cell and tissue cultures has a long tradition. The emerging trend of manufacturing cosmetics and food products in a natural and sustainable manner has brought a new wave in plant cell culture technology over the past 10 years. More than 50 products based on extracts from plant cell cultures have made their way into the cosmetics industry during this time, whereby the majority is produced with plant cell suspension cultures. In addition, the first plant cell culture-based food supplement ingredients, such as Echigena Plus and Teoside 10, are now produced at production scale. In this mini review, we discuss the reasons for and the characteristics as well as the challenges of plant cell culture-based productions for the cosmetics and food industries. It focuses on the current state of the art in this field. In addition, two examples of the latest developments in plant cell culture-based food production are presented, that is, superfood which boosts health and food that can be produced in the lab or at home.

     

Stem cells and the pursuit of youth,a tale of limitless possibilities and commercial fraud

This article examines the hype generated around the term “stem cell”, and the capitalization of the stem cell craze by the cosmetic industry. It started by introducing product lines containing active ingredients derived from plant stem cells. Then, evolved to using own cells for skin regeneration and hair loss treatment, and allogenic cells for the manufacturing of stem cell-derived products. This article also discusses the missing links for safe and reliable stem cell applications in cosmetics, and why local regulatory bodies, members of the industry and consumers must all work together to stop the illegitimate use of the “stem cell” good name in unsafe or fraudulent commercial practices.     

植物天然产物微生物重组合成研究进展

植物天然产物是小分子药物、营养品、化妆品、香精香料等的主要来源之一,在国民经济中发挥重要的作用。目前植物天然产物主要依赖于植物提取,这种生产方式占用耕地、生长周期长,而且植物活性成分往往含量低、生产成本高。通过解析植物天然产物生物合成途径,在微生物细胞中重构,创建细胞工厂,实现利用可再生原料发酵合成,为植物天然产物的供给提供了新的路线。本文重点介绍了中国科学院天津工业生物技术研究所在萜类、黄酮类、苯丙素类等重要类型植物天然产物微生物重组合成方面的研究进展,简要探讨了当前研究面临的挑战及未来前景。     

Biological activities and potential cosmeceutical applications of bioactive components from brown seaweeds: a review

Seaweeds are the primary producers of all aquatic ecosystems. Chemical constituents isolated from diverse classes of seaweeds exert a wide range of nutritional, functional and biological activities. Unique metabolites of seaweeds possess specific biological properties that make them potential ingredients of many industrial applications such as functional foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals of natural origin are becoming more popular than synthetic cosmetics. Hence, the investigation of new seaweeds derived functional components, a different source of natural products, has proven to be a promising area of cosmeceutical studies. Brown seaweeds also produce a range of active components including unique secondary metabolites such as phlorotannins and many of which have specific biological activities that give possibilities for their economic utilization. Brown seaweeds derived active compounds have been shown various functional properties including, antioxidant, antiwrinkling, whitening, antiinflammatory and antiallergy. It is well-known that these kind of biological effects are closely associated with cosmeceutical preparations. This communication reviews the current knowledge on brown seaweeds derived metabolites with various biological activities and the potential use as cosmeceutical ingredients. It is hoped that the reviewed literature on multifunctional properties of brown seaweeds will improve access to the seaweed based natural products specially the ability to incorporate these functional properties in cosmeceutical applications.     

Drug development from natural products: exploiting synergistic effects

Drug development in phytomedicine has been focused in the past on the discovery and analysis of new structures from natural products. The search aimed at the determination of the single "active principle" in plants, based on the assumption that a plant has one or a few ingredients which determine its therapeutic effects. But traditional systems of medicines like Ayurveda, traditional Chinese medicine or the European phytotherapy generally assume that a synergy of all ingredients of the plants will bring about the maximum of therapeutic efficacy. This approach has for long been impossible to investigate since adequate methods to standardize complex plant mixtures as well as to rationalize complex mode of actions were lacking. The introduction of high throughput technologies provides the opportunity to determine profiles of plants and to systematically explore the mode of action of combinatory drug regimes. The present review highlights the concept of synergy and gives examples of synergistic effects of plant constituents. It elaborates on how the high throughput technologies can be used in drug development from natural products with the aim of creating evidence-based plant medications in prevention and treatment of different diseases in the form of new single treatments or new combinatory drug regimes while exploiting synergy-effects.     

Argireline: Needle-Free Botox as Analytical Challenge

Argireline-containing cosmetics attract public interest due to their confirmed reduction of facial wrinkles. Argireline is a peptide that works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters in the neuromuscular junction, producing a botox-like effect. Therefore, it is used as a safe needle-free alternative to botox treatment. In this work we investigated the presence of Argireline in cosmetic creams and sera by application of reversed phase liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (RP-HPLC/MS and MS/MS). The analysis revealed the presence of argireline and its oxidized form in several different cosmetics. The methionine residue in Argireline sequence was indicated as oxidation point according to neutral loss MS studies. The developed sample preparation strategy minimizes and monitors methionine oxidation, bringing to our attention the question of impact of ingredients on the stability of cosmetic product.     

Recent advances in genetic engineering for improvement of fruit crops

Fruits are one of the major sources of vitamins, essential nutrients, antioxidants and fibers in human diet. During the last two–three decades, genetic engineering methods based on the use of transgenes have been successfully adopted to improve fruit plants and focused mainly on enhanced tolerance to biotic and abiotic stresses, increased fruit yield, improved post harvest shelf life of fruit, reduced generation time and production of fruit with higher nutritional value. However, the development of transgenic fruit plants and their commercialization are hindered by many regulatory and social hurdles. Nowadays, new genetic engineering approaches i.e. cisgenesis or intragenesis receive increasing interest for genetic modification of plants. The absence of selectable marker gene in the final product and the introduced gene(s) derived from the same plant or plants sexually compatible with the target crop should increase consumer’s acceptance. In this article, we attempt to summarize the recent progress achieved on the genetic engineering in fruit plants and their applications in crop improvement. Challenges and opportunities for the deployment of genetic engineering in crop improvement programs of fruit plants are also discussed.     

Comparative antioxidant and cytotoxic effects of lignins from different sources

The potential antioxidant activity of industrial lignins obtained from different sources and their potential cytotoxic effect on two immortalized cell lines is studied. In addition the stability of aqueous preparations of these lignins is studied together with the effect on them of ultraviolet irradiation. The lignins studied show a high antioxidant capacity over a range of concentrations that are not harmful to normal human cells. The stability of the lignin solutions when they are exposed to UVA light is confirmed. These findings suggest new uses for lignins in cosmetic and topical medical formulations. This study aims to demonstrate the antioxidant activity and stability of several lignins from different sources. It assesses their suitability for new commercial applications, mainly in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, by discarding any possible cytotoxic properties.     

Lignans as food constituents with estrogen and antiestrogen activity

Phytoestrogens are plant-derived food ingredients assumed to contribute to the prevention of hormone-dependent cancers, osteoporosis, cardiovascular disease, and menopausal symptoms. Lignans occur in numerous food plants and various structures; they are common constituents of human diet, and estrogen activity has been assessed for lignan metabolites formed in the mammalian intestine. We examined natural lignans and semisynthetic norlignans for estrogen and antiestrogen activity. A transformed yeast strain (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) expressing the estrogen receptor alpha and a reporter system was applied as test system. Some plant lignans showed estrogen activity while others and the semisynthetic norlignans were moderately active antiestrogens. Docking of lignans to protein models of estrogen receptor alpha in the active and inactive form sustained the results of the yeast estrogen assay and supported the concept of plant lignans as phytoestrogens.     

Hyperthermophilic endoglucanase for in planta lignocellulose conversion

ABSTRACT: BACKGROUND: The enzymatic conversion of lignocellulosic plant biomass into fermentable sugars is a crucial step in the sustainable and environmentally friendly production of biofuels. However, a major drawback of enzymes from mesophilic sources is their suboptimal activity under established pretreatment conditions, e.g. high temperatures, extreme pH values and high salt concentrations. Enzymes from extremophiles are better adapted to these conditions and could be produced by heterologous expression in microbes, or even directly in the plant biomass. RESULTS: Here we show that a cellulase gene (sso1354) isolated from the hyperthermophilic archaeon Sulfolobus solfataricus can be expressed in plants, and that the recombinant enzyme is biologically active and exhibits the same properties as the wild type form. Since the enzyme is inactive under normal plant growth conditions, this potentially allows its expression in plants without negative effects on growth and development, and subsequent heat-inducible activation. Furthermore we demonstrate that the recombinant enzyme acts in high concentrations of ionic liquids and can therefore degrade alpha-cellulose or even complex cell wall preparations under those pretreatment conditions. CONCLUSION: The hyperthermophilic endoglucanase SSO1354 with its unique features is an excellent tool for advanced biomass conversion. Here we demonstrate its expression in planta and the possibility for post harvest activation. Moreover the enzyme is suitable for combined pretreatment and hydrolysis applications.     

Excipients and additives: hidden hazards in drug products and in product substitution.

The excipients and additives in drug formulations have been described as inert because they do not have an active role in the prevention or treatment of particular ailments. This has led to the misconception among physicians, pharmacists, drug manufacturers and the public that excipients are harmless and unworthy of mention. In fact, pharmacists are allowed to substitute drug formulations, without regard to the excipients, as long as they ensure that the active ingredients in the substitute are the same as those in the formulation prescribed. The inappropriateness of the term inert is becoming increasingly apparent as evidence of adverse reactions--some fatal--to excipients mounts. The likelihood that some "active" constituents, particularly erythromycin, have been blamed for such reactions deserves to be investigated. The public deserves to be better protected. For example, the United States has legislation requiring complete labelling of all food, drugs and cosmetics that incorporate more than one ingredient, no matter how innocuous the constituents are believed to be. In Canada, drug manufacturers are not even required to share this information with physicians or pharmacists when they introduce a new drug or reformulate a product already being marketed, nor are pharmacists required to disclose the contents of formulations that they prepare in the absence of commercially available products.     

Statistical experimental designs for the production of secondary metabolites in plant cell suspension cultures

Statistical experimental designs, also known as the “design of experiments” (DoE) approach, are widely used to improve not only technical processes but also to answer questions in the agricultural, medical and social sciences. Although many articles have been published about the application of DoE in these fields, few studies have addressed the use of DoE in the plant sciences, particularly in the context of plant cell suspension cultures (PCSCs). Compounds derived from PCSCs can be developed as pharmaceuticals, chemical feedstocks and cosmetic ingredients, and statistical experimental designs can be used to improve the productivity of the cells and the yield and/or quality of the target compounds in a cost efficient manner. In this article, we summarize recent findings concerning the application of statistical approaches to improve the performance of PCSCs and discuss the potential future applications of this approach.     

Antimutagenicity of secondary metabolites from higher plants.

Higher plants contain both mutagens and antimutagens and are susceptible to mutagenesis but screening programs for detection of antimutagenesis rarely employ higher plant systems. Short-term bacterial and mammalian tissue culture systems are the norm. Using modified screening tests for detecting antimutagenic agents, higher plants have been shown to contain a variety of structurally novel antimutagenic agents. Systematic bioassay-directed methodology resulted in the isolation in pure form and biological and chemical characterization of the responsible individual active components from various plants. The methodology in use is illustrated by the isolation of cinnamic acid, cinnamyl cinnamate and cinnamyl ricinoleate as the active constituents of the classic medicinal plant product, Styrax asiatica. The methods which may be used to reveal structure-activity relationships and to explore putative molecular modes of action are illustrated with excerpts from the same study.     

Bismuth and Silver in Cosmetic Products: A Source of Environmental and Resource Concern?

Bismuth (Bi) and silver (Ag) are used in increasing amounts and are consequently being emitted from various sources and showing high accumulation rates in soils when sewage sludge is applied on arable land. This study aimed to analyze the amounts of Bi and Ag in three cosmetic products (foundation, powder, and eye shadow) in order to study the flows in urban wastewater in Stockholm, Sweden. Analyses showed that Bi was present in very high concentrations (7,000 to 360,000 milligrams per kilogram) in one third of the analyzed foundation and powder samples, whereas Ag concentrations all were below the detection limit. These cosmetic products explained approximately 24% of the measured total Bi amounts per year reaching the WWTP (wastewater treatment plant), making cosmetics a major Bi source, whereas for Ag the corresponding contribution was <0.1% of the measured annual Ag amounts. The results were roughly adapted for Europe and the United States, estimating the Bi flows from cosmetics to WWTPs. On a global scale, these flows correspond to a non‐negligible part of the world Bi production that, every year, ends up in sewage sludge, limiting the reuse of a valuable metal resource. From an environmental and resource perspective, foundations and powder products should be considered as significant sources of measured Bi amounts in sludge. This large Bi flow must be considered as unsustainable. For Ag, however, the three analyzed cosmetic products are not a significant source of the total Ag load to WWTPs.     

Influence of primary callus induction conditions on the establishment of barley cell suspensions yielding regenerable protoplasts

Summary With the aim of the development of a culture method for efficient plant regeneration from barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) protoplasts, we examined several culture conditions for primary calli from immature embryos of cvs. Dissa and Igri, which were used for initiation of cell suspensions. Among the primary callus culture conditions tested, growth condition of donor plants had a great impact on these efficiencies; Igri protoplasts derived from embryos of plants grown in a greenhouse gave rise to albino plants and few green shoots while several cell lines originating from embryos of plants grown in a growth chamber (16h light, 12°C) yielded protoplasts developing into green plants. In contrast, cell suspensions were produced at higher frequencies from calli derived from embryos of greenhouse-grown Dissa plants. In Igri, increased levels of 2,4-dichlorophenoxyaceticacid (2,4-D) significantly reduced the efficiency of cell suspension establishment and plant regeneration from protoplasts was achieved only with suspension cells derived from calli induced at the lowest level (2.5 mg/l), while the effect of the 2,4-D concentration was not clear in Dissa. The developmental stage of immature embryos also affected the efficiency of cell suspension establishment, and the optimal embryo size was determined to be approximately 1mm in diameter. These results demonstrate the importance of callus induction conditions for successful barley protoplast culture.     

Strategies for transgenic manipulation of monoterpene biosynthesis in plants

Monoterpenes, the C(10) isoprenoids, are a large family of natural products that are best known as constituents of the essential oils and defensive oleoresins of aromatic plants. In addition to ecological roles in pollinator attraction, allelopathy and plant defense, monoterpenes are used extensively in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The importance of these plant products has prompted the definition of many monoterpene biosynthetic pathways, the cloning of the relevant genes and the development of genetic transformation techniques for agronomically significant monoterpene-producing plants. Metabolic engineering of monoterpene biosynthesis in the model plant peppermint has resulted in yield increase and compositional improvement of the essential oil, and also provided strategies for manipulating flavor and fragrance production, and plant defense.     

Fruit cuticular waxes as a source of biologically active triterpenoids

The health benefits associated with a diet rich in fruit and vegetables include reduction of the risk of chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease, diabetes and cancer, that are becoming prevalent in the aging human population. Triterpenoids, polycyclic compounds derived from the linear hydrocarbon squalene, are widely distributed in edible and medicinal plants and are an integral part of the human diet. As an important group of phytochemicals that exert numerous biological effects and display various pharmacological activities, triterpenoids are being evaluated for use in new functional foods, drugs, cosmetics and healthcare products. Screening plant material in the search for triterpenoid-rich plant tissues has identified fruit peel and especially fruit cuticular waxes as promising and highly available sources. The chemical composition, abundance and biological activities of triterpenoids occurring in cuticular waxes of some economically important fruits, like apple, grape berry, olive, tomato and others, are described in this review. The need for environmentally valuable and potentially profitable technologies for the recovery, recycling and upgrading of residues from fruit processing is also discussed.     

An overview of preliminary studies on the development of doubled haploid protocols for nutraceutical species

There is very little activity underway to improve the genetics of herbs, spices, and nutraceutical crops. Much of the industry relies on the harvest of “wild” plants; therefore, the potential for variability in performance and active ingredients is high. This presents significant challenges for an industry that is striving to achieve market credibility and meet current regulatory standards. Uniform varieties would also be beneficial for use in clinical trials. The development of plants performing consistently in cultivation under various environmental conditions and producing a stable quality and quantity of desired active ingredients cannot solely rely on traditional plant breeding, but must be supported by the development of tissue culture methods targeted to the species of interest. We have screened over 80 herb, spice, and nutraceutical species for microspore culture response using the Brassica napus microspore culture protocol. The majority of the species did not respond. Swelling and initial divisions of the microspores were observed in some species. Embryogenesis, however, was observed in the Apiaceae and the Caryophyllaceae. Species within these families were selected for further optimization. Improvements in embryogenic frequency were observed in both families. Haploid and doubled haploid plants have been regenerated in anise (Pimpinella anisum), carrot (Daucus carota), caraway (Carum carvi), dill (Anethum graveolens), fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), lovage (Levisticum officinale), laceflower (Amni majus), parsnip (Petroselinum crispum), and cow cockle (Saponaria vaccaria).