Confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging for in vitro monitoring of active ingredient penetration and distribution in reconstructed human epidermis model

Topically applied active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) or active pharmaceutical ingredients (API) efficacy is directly related to their efficiency of penetration in the skin. In vitro reconstructed human epidermis surrogate models offer in vivo like skin samples for transdermal studies. Using Delipidol®, an ACI currently used in the cosmetics industry, the capabilities to deliver accurate distribution maps and penetration profiles of this molecule by means of confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging have been demonstrated. Using a non‐negative constrained least squares (NCLS) approach, contribution of specific molecules can be estimated at each point of spectral maps in order to deliver semi‐quantitative heat maps representing the ACI levels in the different skin layers. The concentration profiles obtained are approximately single exponential for all 3 time points evaluated, with a consistent decay constant, which is independent of the sublayer structure. Notably, however, there is no significant penetration into the lower basal layers until a critical concentration is built up, after 3 hours. Combination of Raman confocal imaging with spectral unmixing methods such as NCLS is demonstrated to be a relevant approach for in vitro biological evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients and could easily be implemented as a screening tool for industrial use.      

Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of a 6-isoprenoid-substituted flavanone isolated from Dalea elegans

To aid the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry in the development of alternatives to prevent melanin-related hyperpigmentation disorders, the plant Dalea elegans was submitted to fractionation with the aim of obtaining its anti-tyrosinase principle. Bioguided fractionation of D. elegans led to the isolation of 5,2',4'-trihydroxy-2″,2″-dimethylchromene-(6,7:5″,6″)-flavanone (1) as the active compound. This novel flavanone, named as dalenin, showed notable activity at inhibiting tyrosinase using l-tyrosine or l-DOPA as substrates with IC(50) values of 0.26 and 18.61 μM, respectively. This meant that the flavanone was 52 and 495 times more effective as a monophenolase inhibitor than hydroquinone and kojic acid, respectively. With l-DOPA as a substrate, compound 1 showed itself 59 times more effective at inhibiting the enzyme than hydroquinone and showed the same level of effectiveness as that of kojic acid. It was found that the flavanone behaved as a reversible inhibitor of the enzyme and that it was a mixed-I type or a non-competitive inhibitor with l-tyrosine or l-DOPA as substrates, respectively. Molecular modeling studies were conducted confirming the inhibitory potency of dalenin and showing that the 2',4'-dihydroxy substituents are important for the interaction with the enzyme. The results suggest that compound 1 has great potential to be further developed as a pharmaceutical and cosmetic agent for use in dermatological disorders associated with melanin.     

Role of corticotropin releasing factor in anxiety disorders: a translational research perspective

Anxiety disorders are a group of mental disorders that include generalized anxiety disorder (GAD), panic disorder, phobic disorders (e.g., specific phobias, agoraphobia, social phobia) and posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD). Anxiety disorders are among the most common of all mental disorders and, when coupled with an awareness of the disability and reduced quality of life they convey, they must be recognized as a serious public health problem. Over 20 years of preclinical studies point to a role for the CRF system in anxiety and stress responses. Clinical studies have supported a model of CRF dysfunction in depression and more recently a potential contribution to specific anxiety disorders (i.e., panic disorder and PTSD). Much work remains in both the clinical and preclinical fields to inform models of CRF function and its contribution to anxiety. First, we will review the current findings of CRF and HPA axis abnormalities in anxiety disorders. Second, we will discuss startle reflex measures as a tool for translational research to determine the role of the CRF system in development and maintenance of clinical anxiety.     

Human skin reconstructed in vitro as a model to study the keratinocyte, the fibroblast and their interactions: photodamage and repair processes

The protective role of the skin is provided by the two major compartments of the skin, dermis and epidermis. Both are affected in the long term by consequences of sun exposure such as skin photoaging and cancer development. Characterization of UV-induced skin response at cellular and molecular levels is needed for prevention or correction of these long term effects. The human skin reconstructed in vitro, comprising both a living dermal equivalent and a fully differentiated epidermis represents a predictive tool to characterize wavelength and cell type specific biological damage together with tissular distribution. While UVB directly affects epidermis, inducing DNA lesions and apoptotic sunburn keratinocytes, UVA radiation can directly target the dermal compartment through ROS generation, dermal fibroblasts alterations and extracellular matrix (ECM) modifications. Interactions between the two compartments have also been found, especially for MMP1 induction. In the normal population, photodamage can be repaired through specialized systems. Using skin cells from Xeroderma pigmentosum (XP, a photosensitive and cancer-prone disease), a DNA-repair deficient skin has been developed in vitro. Specific features due to intrinsic XP cell phenotype have been discovered, some of them being indicative of early steps of neoplasia and suggesting a particular role for stroma-epithelium interactions. Finally, human reconstructed skin can be used for approaches designed to regenerate photodamaged skin. The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), which is crucial for skin cohesion, is drastically altered in photo-aged skin. The three-dimensional skin model allowed to visualize the improving effects of vitamin C on the DEJ. Modified skin models, lacking one cell type, allowed us to determine the cellular origin of the different markers, their spatial localization, and the respective roles and interactions of keratinocytes and fibroblasts during DEJ formation. All together these studies give a global and tissular view concerning the effects of UV light on skin cells and emphazise the interest of such models for general aspects of cellular biology. By allowing the control of cells used to reconstruct the model and their origin, these studies make it possible to assess the respective role of the two major cellular actors of the skin as well as their interactions. Ongoing research about incorporating other cell types may certainly give rise to even more relevant models.     

In Vivo Muscle Electroporation Threshold Determination: Realistic Numerical Models and In Vivo Experiments

In vivo electroporation is used as an effective technique for delivery of therapeutic agents such as chemotherapeutic drugs or DNA into target tissue cells for different biomedical purposes. In order to successfully electroporate a target tissue, it is essential to know the local electric field distribution produced by an application of electroporation voltage pulses. In this study three-dimensional finite element models were built in order to analyze local electric field distribution and corresponding tissue conductivity changes in rat muscle electroporated either transcutaneously or directly (i.e., two-plate electrodes were placed either on the skin or directly on the skeletal muscle after removing the skin). Numerical calculations of electroporation thresholds and conductivity changes in skin and muscle were validated with in vivo measurements. Our model of muscle with skin also confirms the in vivo findings of previous studies that electroporation “breaks” the skin barrier when the applied voltage is above 50?V.     

Synthesis and biological evaluation of caffeic acid derivatives as potent inhibitors of α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis

We have disclosed our effort to develop caffeic acid derivatives as potent and non-toxic inhibitors of α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis to treat pigmentation disorders and skin medication including a cosmetic skin-whitening agent. The SAR studies revealed that cyclohexyl ester and secondary amide derivatives of caffeic acid showed significant inhibitory activities.     

Microfluidic skin chip with vasculature for recapitulating the immune response of the skin tissue

There is a considerable need for cell-based in vitro skin models for studying dermatological diseases and testing cosmetic products, but current in vitro skin models lack physiological relevance compared to human skin tissue. For example, many dermatological disorders involve complex immune responses, but current skin models are not capable of recapitulating the phenomena. Previously, we reported development of a microfluidic skin chip with a vessel structure and vascular endothelial cells. In this study, we cocultured dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes with vascular endothelial cells, human umbilical vascular endothelial cells. We verified the formation of a vascular endothelium in the presence of the dermis and epidermis layers by examining the expression of tissue-specific markers. As the vascular endothelium plays a critical role in the migration of leukocytes to inflammation sites, we incorporated leukocytes in the circulating media and attempted to mimic the migration of neutrophils in response to external stimuli. Increased secretion of cytokines and migration of neutrophils was observed when the skin chip was exposed to ultraviolet irradiation, showing that the microfluidic skin chip may be useful for studying the immune response of the human tissue.     

Molecular docking studies of a phlorotannin, dieckol isolated from Ecklonia cava with tyrosinase inhibitory activity

In this study, the phlorotannin dieckol, which was isolated from the brown alga Ecklonia cava, was examined for its inhibitory effects on melanin synthesis. Tyrosinase inhibitors are important agents for cosmetic products. We therefore examined the inhibitory effects of dieckol on mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis, and analyzed its binding modes using the crystal structure of Bacillus megaterium tyrosinase (PDB ID: 3NM8). Dieckol inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with an IC(50) of 20μM and was more effective as a cellular tyrosinase having melanin reducing activities than the commercial inhibitor, arbutin, in B16F10 melanoma cells, and without apparent cytotoxicity. It was found that dieckol behaved as a non-competitive inhibitor with l-tyrosine substrates. For further insight, we predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and dieckol. These molecular modeling studies were successful (calculated binding energy value: -126.12kcal/mol), and indicated that dieckol interacts with His208, Met215, and Gly46. These results suggest that dieckol has great potential to be further developed as a pharmaceutical or cosmetic agent for use in dermatological disorders associated with melanin.     

Therapeutic potential of melatonin ligands

Melatonin is a neurohormone that is believed to be involved in a wide range of physiological functions. In humans, appropriate clinical trials confirm the efficacy of melatonin or melatoninergic agonists for the MT1 and MT2 receptor subtypes in circadian rhythm sleep disorders only. Nevertheless, preclinical animal model studies relevant to human pathologies involving validated reference compounds lead to other therapeutic possibilities. Among these is a recently developed treatment concept for depression, which has been validated by the clinical efficacy of agomelatine, an agent having both MT1 and MT2 agonist and 5-HT2C antagonist activity. A third melatonin binding site has been purified and characterized as the enzyme quinone reductase 2 (QR2). The physiological role of this enzyme is not yet known. Recent results obtained by different groups suggest: (1) that inhibition of QR2 may lead to "protective" effects and (2) that over-expression of this enzyme may have deleterious effects. The inhibitory effect of melatonin on QR2 observed in vitro may explain the protective effects reported for melatonin in different animal models, such as cardiac or renal ischemia-effects that have been attributed to the controversial antioxidant properties of the hormone. The development of specific ligands for each of these melatonin binding sites is necessary to link physiological and/or therapeutic effects.     

Mitochondrial Disease: A Historical,Biochemical, and London Perspective

Roland Luft is credited with describing the first truly mitochondrial disorder in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Cases such as his have proven to be exceptionally rare. Some years later, methods of mitochondrial analysis--enzymatic, polarographic, and spectroscopic, which had been developed primarily by groups in Philadelphia--were applied to the study of mitochondria isolated from skeletal muscle biopsies of patients thought to have defects of oxidative phosphorylation. In the vanguard of these investigations were groups in New York and London. John Clark led the latter group. Application of biochemical studies, more recently supplemented by molecular mtDNA and nuclear DNA studies, have revealed that mitochondrial disorders are among the most common of all metabolic disorders.     

Induced pluripotent stem cells reprogramming overcomes technical limitations for highly pigmented adult melanocyte amplification and integration in 3D skin model

Understanding pigmentation regulations taking into account the original skin color type is important to address pigmentary disorders. Biological models including adult melanocytes from different phenotypes allow to perform fine-tuned explorative studies and support discovery of treatments adapted to populations' skin color. However, technical challenges arise when trying to not only isolate but also amplify melanocytes from highly pigmented adult skin. To bypass the initial isolation and growth of cutaneous melanocytes, we harvested and expanded fibroblasts from light and dark skin donors and reprogrammed them into iPSC, which were then differentiated into melanocytes. The resulting melanocyte populations displayed high purity, genomic stability, and strong proliferative capacity, the latter being a critical parameter for dark skin cells. The iPSC-derived melanocyte strains expressed lineage-specific markers and could be successfully integrated into reconstructed skin equivalent models, revealing pigmentation status according to the native phenotype. In both monolayer cultures and 3D skin models, the induced melanocytes demonstrated responsiveness to promelanogenic stimuli. The data demonstrate that the iPSC-derived melanocytes with high proliferative capacity maintain their pigmentation genotype and phenotypic properties up to a proper integration into 3D skin equivalents, even for highly pigmented cells.     

Somatic gene mutation and human disease other than cancer

While the focus of much mutation research is on germ-line mutation, somatic mutation is being found to be important in human disease. Neurofibromatosis 1 and McCune-Albright are disorders which are detected in the skin and other systems. The skin manifestations were essential for the demonstration of somatic mosaicism in neurofibromatosis 1, while analysis of blood DNA demonstrated somatic mutation in neurofibromatosis 2. Incontinentia pigmenti is also a disorder seen in skin and other tissues, but here it is the rare variant of the disorder in males, where it is usually lethal, that involves somatic mosaicism. Paroxysmal nocturnal hemoglobinuria is a disorder of the blood and cell separation of blood elements allows the demonstration of the somatic mosaicism. This review also discusses disorders in which somatic mosaicism, for mutations probably incompatible with life if the mutation had been germ-line, are likely to be involved. These include the Proteus syndrome, which involves both vascular tissues and bones, and two disorders which might be thought of as representing two subtypes of Proteus: Klippel-Trenaunay, which involves vascular tissues, and Maffuci, which involves bones. Embryonic mutations, which create mosaicism for both the soma and germ-line, are being increasingly found in a number of disorders and are discussed more briefly. Finally, reverse mutations involving the soma have been recently found in several disorders and such revertant mutations are also examined. While the review focuses on the clinical importance of somatic mutations, many of the mutations found to date are tabulated. It is too early to see if there is a different pattern of somatic mutation as compared to germ-line mutation. Although the parameters to allow careful quantitation are not yet available, it seems that the frequency of gene mutation in embryonic cells is not markedly different than that in the germ-line.     

Hailey-Hailey disease as an orthodisease of PMR1 deficiency in Saccharomyces cerevisiae

The term orthodisease has recently been introduced to define human disorders in which the pathogenic gene has orthologs in model organism genomes. Here, we describe Hailey-Hailey disease (HHD), a blistering skin disorder caused by haploinsufficiency of ATP2C1 as an orthodisease from a Saccharomyces cerevisiae perspective. ATP2C1 encodes the human secretory pathway Ca(2+)/Mn(2+) ATPase hSPCA1 and is orthologous to the PMR1 gene in S. cerevisiae. hSPCA1 fully complements PMR1 deficiency in yeast and pmr1DeltaS. cerevisiae has proved to be a valuable tool to screen ATP2C1 mutations and address potential pathogenic/pharmacologic mechanisms in HHD. Consequently, this human skin disorder is an ideal example of an orthodisease.     

Antimicrobial peptides isolated from insects and their potential applications

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) in insects have the potential to be developed as chemotherapy agents against numerous microbial species. This article reviewed the existing knowledge of what have been focused so far on published materials related to AMPs isolated from insects. Previous studies were focused on peptide characterization and the mechanism pathways of different AMPs from a variety of insect Orders. Most studied insect Orders are as follows: Hymenoptera (50%), Diptera (17%), Coleoptera (13%), Lepidoptera (10%), Hemiptera (5%), Blattodea (3%) and Odonata (2%). Dozens of new AMPs have been extracted from insects recently. However, more studies in vivo and in vitro are necessary to fully understand their effect and the mechanisms of antimicrobial action to utilize their promising potential in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.     

Pharmacotoxicological applications of an equivalent dermis: three measurements of cytotoxicity

The legal procedure for evaluating the toxicity of cosmetic, household, chemical and pharmaceutical products is still the irritancy Draize test on rabbits. Various irritation tests are currently being developed as alternatives toin vivo animal testing. Ourin vitro model system is composed of 24 equivalent dermis (ED) comprising a chitosan-cross-linked collagen-glycosaminoglycan matrix populated by foreskin fibroblasts. In evaluating this system for irritancy testing, three different measures of toxicity were used: MTT (dimethylthiazol diphenyltetrazolium bromide) reduction, and lactate dehydrogenase and interleukin-6 release. The experiments described herein represent a preliminary evaluation to determine the usefulness and predictive value of our 24 ED kit as an alternative method for the prediction of human dermal reaction, versus three chemical products: cadmium chloride, lauryl sulfate, and benzalkonium chloride. Preliminary results suggest that the ED may be a usefulin vitro model for the prediction of cutaneous and ocular toxicity and allow the development of a 24-skin-equivalent kit realized by seeding human normal keratinocytes onto the equivalent dermis.Abbreviations ED equivalent dermis - ECM extracellular matrix - FCM fibroblast culture medium - LDH lactate dehydrogenase - IL-6 interleukin-6 - MTT dimethylthiazol diphenyltetrazolium bromide     

A review of psychosocial outcomes for patients seeking cosmetic surgery

The authors reviewed the literature on psychological and psychosocial outcomes for individuals undergoing cosmetic surgery, to address whether elective cosmetic procedures improve psychological well-being and psychosocial functioning and whether there are identifiable predictors of an unsatisfactory psychological outcome. They conducted a search of appropriate computerized databases for studies that evaluated psychological and psychosocial status both before and after elective cosmetic surgery. They identified 37 relevant studies of varying cosmetic procedures that utilized disparate methodologies. Overall, patients appeared generally satisfied with the outcome of their procedures, although some exhibited transient and some exhibited longer-lasting psychological disturbance. Factors associated with poor psychosocial outcome included being young, being male, having unrealistic expectations of the procedure, previous unsatisfactory cosmetic surgery, minimal deformity, motivation based on relationship issues, and a history of depression, anxiety, or personality disorder. Body dysmorphic disorder was also recognized by some studies as a predictor of poor outcome, a finding reinforced by reference to the psychiatric literature. The authors conclude that although most people appear satisfied with the outcome of cosmetic surgical procedures, some are not, and attempts should be made to screen for such individuals in cosmetic surgery settings.     

Targeting mutant fibroblast growth factor receptors in cancer

Fibroblast growth factor receptors (FGFRs) play diverse roles in the control of cell proliferation, cell differentiation, angiogenesis and development. Activating the mutations of FGFRs in the germline has long been known to cause a variety of skeletal developmental disorders, but it is only recently that a similar spectrum of somatic FGFR mutations has been associated with human cancers. Many of these somatic mutations are gain-of-function and oncogenic and create dependencies in tumor cell lines harboring such mutations. A combination of knockdown studies and pharmaceutical inhibition in preclinical models has further substantiated genomically altered FGFR as a therapeutic target in cancer, and the oncology community is responding with clinical trials evaluating multikinase inhibitors with anti-FGFR activity and a new generation of specific pan-FGFR inhibitors.