Infrared spectroscopic study of stratum corneum model membranes prepared from human ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid domains. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are cholesterol, ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids forming two crystalline lamellar phases. However, only limited information is available on whether the various lipid classes participate in the same crystalline lattices or if separate domains are formed within the lipid lamellae. In this article infrared spectroscopic studies are reported of hydrated mixtures prepared from cholesterol, human CER, and free fatty acids. Evaluation of the methylene stretching vibrations revealed a conformational disordering starting at approximately 60 degrees C for all mixtures. Examination of the rotational ordering (scissoring and rocking vibrations) of mixtures prepared from equimolar cholesterol and CER with a variation in the level of free fatty acids showed that at lower free fatty acid content orthorhombic and hexagonal domains coexist in the lipid lamellae. Increasing the fatty acid level to an equimolar cholesterol/CER/fatty acid mixture reveals the dominant presence of an orthorhombic lattice, confirming x-ray diffraction studies. Replacing the protonated free fatty acid chains by their perdeuterated counterparts demonstrates that free fatty acids and CER participate in the same orthorhombic lattice up to a level of slightly less than 1:1:0.75 cholesterol/CER/free fatty acids molar ratio but that free fatty acids also form separate domains within the lipid lamellae at equimolar ratios at room temperature. However, no evidence for this has been observed at 32 degrees C. Extrapolating these findings to the situation in stratum corneum led us conclude that in stratum corneum, fatty acids and CER participate in the orthorhombic lattice at 32 degrees C, the skin temperature.     

Lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides closely mimic the unique stratum corneum lipid phase behavior

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, form the main barrier for the diffusion of molecules through the skin. The presence of a unique 13 nm lamellar phase and its high crystallinity are characteristic for the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. In the present study, small-angle and wide-angle X-ray diffraction were used to examine the organization in lipid mixtures prepared with a unique set of well-defined synthetic ceramides, varying from each other in head group architecture and acyl chain length. The results show that equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and synthetic ceramides (resembling the composition of pig ceramides) closely resemble the lamellar and lateral stratum corneum lipid organization, both at room and higher temperatures. Exclusion of several ceramide classes from the mixture does not affect the lipid organization. However, complete substitution of ceramide 1 (acylceramide with a sphingosine base) with ceramide 9 (acylceramide with a phytosphingosine base) reduces the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase. This indicates that the head group architecture of acylceramides affects the lipid organization. In conclusion, lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides offer an attractive tool with which to unravel the importance of the molecular structure of individual ceramides for proper lipid organization.     

Phase behaviour of skin barrier model membranes at pH 7.4.

The main function of the skin is to protect the body against exogenous substances. The skin barrier is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). This layer consists of keratin enriched cells embedded in lipid lamellae that form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. The main lipid classes in this barrier are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Cholesterol sulfate and calcium are also present in SC. Furthermore it has been suggested that a pH gradient exists. In a previous paper the effect of cholesterol sulfate and calcium on the lipid phase behaviour of mixtures prepared from cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids at pH 5 was reported (approximate pH at the skin surface). In the present study the phase behaviour of mixtures prepared from cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids prepared at pH 7.4 (the pH of viable cells) has been examined between 25 and 95 degrees C. Our studies reveal that a reversed hexagonal phase has been formed at elevated temperatures. Addition of calcium inhibits the formation of the reversed hexagonal phase, while cholesterol sulfate promotes the presence of the reversed hexagonal phase at increased temperatures. From our results we can conclude that the lipid mixtures prepared at pH 5 resemble more closely the lipid phase behaviour in intact SC than the lipid mixtures prepared at pH 7.4.     

Effect of epidermal acylglucosylceramides and acylceramides on the morphology of liposomes prepared from stratum corneum lipids

Epidermal acylglucosylceramides (AGC) and acylceramides (AC) cause aggregation and stacking of stratum corneum lipid liposomes formed from a lipid mixture containing epidermal ceramides (40%), cholesterol (25%), palmitic acid (25%), and cholesteryl sulfate (10%). This demonstrates the ability of these sphingolipids to hold adjacent bilayers in close apposition and their roles in the assembly of lamellar structures in the epidermis. However, AGC and AC in their hydrogenated form also caused aggregation and stacking of the stratum corneum lipid liposomes. This throws into doubt the proposed structural specificity of linoleate in the function of AGC and AC as molecular rivets in the assembly of the epidermal lamellar granules and the stratum corneum intercellular lamellae, respectively.     

Phase behavior of lipid mixtures based on human ceramides: coexistence of crystalline and liquid phases.

The lipid regions in the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum) form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. In this layer the main lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol (CHOL), and FFA. Previous studies revealed a coexistence of two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 13 nm (referred to as long periodicity phase) and 6 nm (short periodicity phase). Additional studies showed that lipid mixtures prepared with isolated pig ceramides (pigCER) mimic lipid phase behavior in stratum corneum closely. Because the molecular structure of pigCER differs in some important aspects from that of human ceramides (HCER), in the present study the phase behavior of mixtures prepared with HCER has been examined. Phase behavior studies of mixtures based on HCER revealed that in CHOL:HCER mixtures the long periodicity phase dominates. In the absence of HCER1 the short periodicity phase is dominant. Addition of FFA promotes the formation of the short periodicity phase and induces a transition from a hexagonal sublattice to an orthorhombic sublattice. Furthermore, the presence of FFA promotes the formation of a liquid phase. Finally, cholesterol sulfate, a minor but important lipid in the stratum corneum, reduces the amount of cholesterol that phase separates in crystalline domains. From these observations it can be concluded that the phase behavior of mixtures prepared from HCER differs in some important aspects from that prepared from pigCER. The most prevalent differences are the following: i) the addition of FFA promotes the formation of the short periodicity phase; and ii) liquid lateral packing is obviously present in CHOL:HCER:FFA mixtures. These changes in phase behavior might be due to a larger amount of linoleic acid moiety in HCER mixtures compared with that in pigCER mixtures.     

Preparation and characterization of a stratum corneum substitute for in vitro percutaneous penetration studies

The intercellular stratum corneum (SC) lipids form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. A porous substrate covered with synthetic SC lipids would be an attractive model to study percutaneous penetration, hereby replacing native human SC. Prerequisite is that this stratum corneum substitute (SCS) is prepared with a uniform lipid composition and layer thickness. Furthermore, the lipid organization and orientation should resemble that in SC. The objective of this study was to investigate the utility of an airbrush spraying device to prepare a SCS composed of cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids on a polycarbonate filter. The results demonstrate that a proper choice of solvent mixture and lipid concentration is crucial to achieve a uniform distribution of the applied lipids over the filter surface. A smooth and tightly packed lipid layer is only obtained when the equilibration conditions are appropriately chosen. The SCS possesses two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities similar to those present in native SC. The orientation of these lamellae is mainly parallel to the surface of the polycarbonate filter, which resembles the orientation of the intercellular SC lipids. In conclusion, the airbrush technique enables generation of a homogeneous SCS, which ultimately may function as a predictive in vitro percutaneous penetration model.     

Preparation and characterization of a stratum corneum substitute for in vitro percutaneous penetration studies

The intercellular stratum corneum (SC) lipids form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. A porous substrate covered with synthetic SC lipids would be an attractive model to study percutaneous penetration, hereby replacing native human SC. Prerequisite is that this stratum corneum substitute (SCS) is prepared with a uniform lipid composition and layer thickness. Furthermore, the lipid organization and orientation should resemble that in SC. The objective of this study was to investigate the utility of an airbrush spraying device to prepare a SCS composed of cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids on a polycarbonate filter. The results demonstrate that a proper choice of solvent mixture and lipid concentration is crucial to achieve a uniform distribution of the applied lipids over the filter surface. A smooth and tightly packed lipid layer is only obtained when the equilibration conditions are appropriately chosen. The SCS possesses two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities similar to those present in native SC. The orientation of these lamellae is mainly parallel to the surface of the polycarbonate filter, which resembles the orientation of the intercellular SC lipids. In conclusion, the airbrush technique enables generation of a homogeneous SCS, which ultimately may function as a predictive in vitro percutaneous penetration model.     

The Lipid Organisation of the Skin Barrier: Liquid and Crystalline Domains Coexist in Lamellar Phases

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.     

Human stratum corneum lipid organization as observed by atomic force microscopy on Langmuir-Blodgett films

The barrier function of skin ultimately depends on the physical state and structural organisation of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. Ceramides, cholesterol and a broad distribution of saturated long-chain free fatty acids dominate the stratum corneum lipid composition. Additionally, smaller amounts of cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate may be present. A key feature determining skin barrier capacity is thought to be whether or not different lipid domains coexist laterally in the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. In this study, the overall tendency for lipid domain formation in different mixtures of extracted human stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate were studied using atomic force microscopy (AFM) on Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) films on mica. It is shown that the saturated long-chain free fatty acid distribution of human stratum corneum prevents hydrocarbon chain segregation. Further, LB-films of human stratum corneum ceramides express a pattern of connected elongated domains with a granular domain interface. The dominating effect of both cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate is that of increased ceramide domain dispersion. This effect is counteracted by the presence of free fatty acids, which preferentially mix with ceramides and not with cholesterol. Cholesteryl oleate does not mix with other skin lipid components, supporting the hypothesis of an extra-endogenous origin. In the system composed of endogenous human ceramides and cholesterol plus 15 wt% stratum corneum distributed free fatty acids, i.e., the system mimicking most closely the lipid composition of the stratum corneum extracellular space, LB-films on mica express lateral domain formation.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 degrees C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 degrees C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

Elastic vesicles as a tool for dermal and transdermal delivery

The main problem in delivery of drugs across the skin is the barrier function of the skin, which is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid layers, the so-called lipid lamellae. When applying drugs onto the skin, the major penetration pathway is the tortuous intercellular route along the lipid lamellae. In order to increase the number of drugs administered via the transdermal route, novel drug delivery systems have to be designed. Among these systems are iontophoresis, electroporation, microneedles, and vesicular systems.     

Elastic Vesicles as a Tool for Dermal and Transdermal Delivery

The main problem in delivery of drugs across the skin is the barrier function of the skin, which is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid layers, the so-called lipid lamellae. When applying drugs onto the skin, the major penetration pathway is the tortuous intercellular route along the lipid lamellae. In order to increase the number of drugs administered via the transdermal route, novel drug delivery systems have to be designed. Among these systems are iontophoresis, electroporation, microneedles, and vesicular systems.     

Novel lipid mixtures based on synthetic ceramides reproduce the unique stratum corneum lipid organization

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin protect the body from uncontrolled water loss. In human stratum corneum (SC), two crystalline lamellar phases are present, which contain mostly cholesterol, free fatty acids, and nine types of free ceramides. Previous studies have demonstrated that the SC lipid organization can be mimicked with model mixtures based on isolated SC lipids. However, those studies are hampered by low availability and high interindividual variability of the native tissue. To elucidate the role of each lipid class in the formation of a competent skin barrier, the use of synthetic lipids would offer an alternative. The small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction results of the present study show for the first time that synthetic lipid mixtures, containing only three synthetic ceramides, reflect to a high extent the SC lipid organization. Both an appropriately chosen preparation method and lipid composition promote the formation of two characteristic lamellar phases with repeat distances similar to those found in native SC. From all synthetic lipid mixtures examined, equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids equilibrated at 80 degrees C resemble to the highest extent the lamellar and lateral SC lipid organization, both at room and increased temperatures.     

Organization of skin stratum corneum extracellular lamellae: diffraction evidence for asymmetric distribution of cholesterol

Lipid suspensions containing 2:1:1 skin ceramides:palmitic acid:cholesterol, similar to the lipid composition found in the extracellular matrix of skin stratum corneum, were analyzed by X-ray diffraction methods. These suspensions gave a sharp wide-angle reflection at 4.1 A, indicating tight hydrocarbon chain packing that would function as a water barrier, and low-angle lamellar diffraction with a repeat period near 130 A, similar to that previously recorded from intact stratum corneum. The lamellar repeat increased from 121 A at pH 6 to 133 A at pH 8.5, allowing phase angles of the lamellar data to be obtained by a sampling theorem "swelling" analysis. Electron density profiles showed that each repeating unit contained two asymmetric bilayers, with a fluid space on one side of the bilayer that increased with increasing pH, due to electrostatic repulsion between bilayers because of ionization of the palmitic acid. Profiles obtained from lamellae with cholesterol sulfate partially substituted for cholesterol showed large density increases on that same side of the bilayer, indicating that cholesterol is asymmetrically distributed in each bilayer. A molecular model was developed postulating that this asymmetry is due to the exclusion of cholesterol from lipid monolayers containing the ester-linked unsaturated (linoleic) hydrocarbon chain of skin ceramide 1. This model can explain the altered organization of extracellular lamellae in epidermal cysts (P. W. Wertz, D. C. Swartzendruber, K. C. Madison, D. T. Downing. 1987. J. Invest. Dermatol. 89:419-425) where the ester-linked chains have a higher percentage of saturated fatty acids than found in normal epidermis.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 °C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 °C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

Biophysics (and sociology) of ceramides

In the past decade, the long-neglected ceramides (N-acylsphingosines) have become one of the most attractive lipid molecules in molecular cell biology, because of their involvement in essential structures (stratum corneum) and processes (cell signalling). Most natural ceramides have a long (16-24 C atoms) N-acyl chain, but short N-acyl chain ceramides (two to six C atoms) also exist in Nature, apart from being extensively used in experimentation, because they can be dispersed easily in water. Long-chain ceramides are among the most hydrophobic molecules in Nature, they are totally insoluble in water and they hardly mix with phospholipids in membranes, giving rise to ceramide-enriched domains. In situ enzymic generation, or external addition, of long-chain ceramides in membranes has at least three important effects: (i) the lipid monolayer tendency to adopt a negative curvature, e.g. through a transition to an inverted hexagonal structure, is increased, (ii) bilayer permeability to aqueous solutes is notoriously enhanced, and (iii) transbilayer (flip-flop) lipid motion is promoted. Short-chain ceramides mix much better with phospholipids, promote a positive curvature in lipid monolayers, and their capacities to increase bilayer permeability or transbilayer motion are very low or non-existent.     

Organization of the intercellular spaces of porcine epidermal and palatal stratum corneum: a quantitative study employing ruthenium tetroxide

Previous studies have demonstrated that the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum contain multilamellar lipid sheets with variable ultrastructure in addition to desmosomes or desmosomal remnants. The intercellular lamellae are thought to provide a permeability barrier whereas the desmosomes are responsible for cell-cell cohesion. In this study, transmission electron microscopy of RuO₄-fixed tissue was used to compare the proportions of the intercellular spaces in epidermal and palatal stratum corneum occupied by desmosomes and by different patterns of lamellae. Desmosomes are more abundant in palatal than in epidermal stratum corneum (46.9 vs 15.0% length of intercellular space). In epidermis the most frequent lamellar arrangements involve 3 (23.5%) or 6 (24.2%) lucent bands with an alternating broad-narrow-broad pattern, whereas the most frequent lamellar arrangements in palatal tissue are 2 (17.2%) or 4 (10.5%) lucent bands of uniform width. Most of the nondesmosomal portion of the intercellular space in palatal stratum corneum was dilated and had elongated lamellae at the periphery and short disorganized lamellae and amorphous electron-dense material in the interior. It is concluded that the multilamellar lipid sheets are less extensive in palatal than in epidermal stratum corneum, which could explain the greater permeability of the palate.     

Interactions of elastic and rigid vesicles with human skin in vitro: electron microscopy and two-photon excitation microscopy.

Interactions between vesicle formulations and human skin were studied, in vitro, in relation to their composition and elasticity. The skin ultrastructure was investigated using transmission electron microscopy (TEM), freeze-fracture electron microscopy (FFEM) and two-photon fluorescence microscopy (TPE). The main difference between the vesicle formulations was their elasticity. Elastic vesicle formulations contained bilayer forming surfactants/lipids and single-chain surfactant octaoxyethylenelaurate-ester (PEG-8-L), whereas rigid vesicles contained bilayer surfactants in combination with cholesterol. TEM results showed three types of interactions after non-occlusive application of elastic PEG-8-L containing vesicle formulations on human skin: (1) the presence of spherical lipid structures containing or surrounded by electron dense spots; (2) oligolamellar vesicles were observed between the corneocytes in the upper part of the stratum corneum; and (3) large areas containing lipids, surfactants and electron dense spots were observed deeper down into the stratum corneum. Furthermore, after treatment with vesicles containing PEG-8-L and a saturated C12-chain surfactant, small stacks of bilayers were found in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Rigid vesicles affected only the most apical corneocytes to some extent. FFEM observations supported the TEM findings. Major morphological changes in the intercellular lipid bilayer structure were only observed after treatment with PEG-8-L containing elastic vesicles. TPE showed a distinct difference in penetration pathways after non-occlusive application of elastic or rigid vesicles. After treatment with elastic vesicles, thread-like channels were formed within the entire stratum corneum and the polygonal cell shape of corneocytes could not be distinguished. Fluorescent label incorporated in rigid vesicles was confined to the intercellular spaces of the upper 2-5 micrometer of the stratum corneum and the cell contours could still be distinguished.     

Structure of the skin barrier and its modulation by vesicular formulations

The natural function of the skin is to protect the body from unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. Since the lipids regions in the stratum corneum form the only continuous structure, substances applied onto the skin always have to pass these regions. For this reason the organization in the lipid domains is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid phase behavior is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum crystalline phases are predominantly present, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Both the crystalline nature and the presence of a 13 nm lamellar phase are considered to be crucial for the skin barrier function. Since it is impossible to selectively extract individual lipid classes from the stratum corneum, the lipid organization has been studied in vitro using isolated lipid mixtures. These studies revealed that mixtures prepared with isolated stratum corneum lipids mimic to a high extent stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. This indicates that proteins do not play an important role in the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. Furthermore, it was noticed that mixtures prepared only with ceramides and cholesterol already form the 13 nm lamellar phase. In the presence of free fatty acids the lattice density of the structure increases. In stratum corneum the ceramide fraction consists of various ceramide subclasses and the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase is also affected by the ceramide composition. Particularly the presence of ceramide 1 is crucial. Based on these findings a molecular model has recently been proposed for the organization of the 13 nm lamellar phase, referred to as "the sandwich model", in which crystalline and liquid domains coexist. The major problem for topical drug delivery is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Therefore, several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily and locally. One of the approaches is the application of drugs in formulations containing vesicles. In order to unravel the mechanisms involved in increasing the drug transport across the skin, information on the effect of vesicles on drug permeation rate, the permeation pathway and perturbations of the skin ultrastructure is of importance. In the second part of this paper the possible interactions between vesicles and skin are described, focusing on differences between the effects of gel-state vesicles, liquid-state vesicles and elastic vesicles.