云南鹤庆白依人植物染料的民族植物学研究

植物染料有绿色环保、安全性高等优势,但其资源量少、成本高、色牢度低等缺点限制了植物染料在工业化的应用。云南鹤庆白依人有植物染色的传统习俗,当地有丰富的染料植物资源和传统染色工艺。为调查、记录和研究白依人植物染色和相关传统知识,拓展植物染料资源并促进植物染料的开发利用,该研究对大理州鹤庆县六合彝族乡白依人植物染色及相关传统知识进行了民族植物学调研。2019年9月至2020年3月,对大理州鹤庆县六合彝族乡4个村落的288位信息报告人进行半结构式访谈,对当地植物染料进行实地调研,以参与式观察法记录传统植物染色技艺,通过定量分析法对传统植物染色知识(f值、CII_s值、ICF值)进行分析研究。结果表明:(1)鹤庆白依人使用11种植物染料,分属10科11属。(2)不同地区、年龄、性别的白依人对传统植物染色知识的认知有差异。(3)水红木和密蒙花的使用频率和文化重要性指数较高,并且白依人对蓝染的植物染料认知高度一致。(4)白依人常用植物染料给本民族服饰火草衣染色。该文揭示了鹤庆白依人有较完整的传统植物染色知识体系,但随着时代的发展而逐渐流失。该研究结果为植物染料资源的开发和传统植物染色工艺的研究提供科学线索,促进少数民族植物染料的产业化应用,对少数民族地区的经济发展有重要意义和应用价值。     

Ethonobotany and sustainable utilization of natural dye plants in Sierra Leone

An ethnobotanical survey of practicing dyers in the biodiversity rich ecosystems of Sierra Leone and of the literature was conducted on the common plant species used to produce natural dyes. In addition, the methods used to obtain these dyes and to dye fabric, together with the techniques used to produce various patterns on fabric were investigated. Although the thriving dye industry is now predominantly serviced by synthetic dyes, the knowledge of the plants used still survives among some dyers, who use plant dyes to some extent. However this indigenous knowledge is rapidly being lost as increasingly less of it is being passed on to succeeding generations. Several plants used in the dyeing process are documented, together with their taxonomic characteristics; local names; how the dyes are produced and fabric dyed; the colors obtained; in addition to how various patterns are designed. Sustainable utilization of this important renewable natural resource is discussed.     

Plants used as natural dye sources in Turkey

This study was carried out in the regions where handcrafts such as carpet and rug weaving are common in Turkey. In the regions where natural dyes are used, 123 plant species belonging to 50 families were identified as sources of natural dyes. In natural dye production, different parts of the plant or the whole aboveground plant is used. Ten different colors are gained from the plants. Sometimes the same color can be obtained from different plants. By mixing different plants, it is possible to produce various colors. We also identified more than 12 natural and more than eight chemical assistant substances (mordant) that are used in the regions to bind dye to fibers, to maintain the strongness and brightness of the colors, and to obtain various colors     

Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand

The objective of this study was to document the traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing by the Tai-Lao ethnic group in Roi Et province in northeastern Thailand. Traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing is disappearing because of modernization including new lifestyles, urbanization, and the introduction of synthetic colors. Textile dyeing with local plants, however, is experiencing a revival connected to ecotourism and global interest in natural products. To exploit that potential, it is important to preserve the local knowledge related to textile dyeing. We interviewed 60 Tai-Lao informants in 15 villages and 9 districts about their dyeing traditions and the species used through individual semi-structured and focus groups interviews. A total of 56 species in 50 genera and 31 families were used for dyeing cotton and silks; most species belonged to Fabaceae (11 spp., 19%) and Anacardiaceae (5 spp., 9%). Trees (36 spp., 65%) were the best represented life form among the dye plants, followed by shrubs and herbs (8 spp., 16% each), and climbers (4 spp., 7%). Bark was the plant part most commonly used for dyeing (25 spp., 42%) followed by leaves (12 spp., 20%), and fruits (9 spp., 15%). Home gardens were the most common habitat of dye plant (30 spp., 53%) followed by community forests (16 spp., 28%). Indigofera tinctoria L. and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. were the most important dye plant species of the Tai-Lao ethnic group as demonstrated by their high use value index (UV = 0.60). Blue/indigo-blue was the color most informants had common knowledge about with an informant consensus factor (ICF) of 0.92 followed by black with ICF = 0.84. Ten different colors were obtained from the 56 plant species. Brown/pale-brown/golden-brown was the color obtained from most dye plant species (14 spp., 25%) followed by green/pale-green/dark-green (13 spp., 23%). Nine different kinds of mordants were used in the dyeing, including alum, chrome (potassium dichromate; K₂Cr₂O₇), copper sulfate (CuSO₄), iron oxide (Fe₂O₃), tamarind juice (tartaric acid), salt (NaCl), lime (calcium oxide; CaO), ash (potassium hydroxide; KOH), and mud. Among the 56 species used for textile dyeing, three are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, including: Dipterocarpus alatus Roxb. & G.Don, Dipterocarpus obtusifolius Teijsm. ex Miq., and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. Documenting these and other species used for textile dyeing will provide additional arguments for their conservation. It will also help to secure the reappearing tradition of textile dyeing with local plants, and hence support the cultural integrity of the Tai-Lao communities, and serve as an example for other communities in Thailand and elsewhere for preserving their traditional knowledge.     

Indigenous knowledge of dye-yielding plants among Bai communities in Dali,Northwest Yunnan,China

Background

Bai people in the Dali Prefecture of Northwest Yunnan, China, have a long history of using plant extracts to dye their traditional costumes and maintain this culture for posterity. However, the development of modern technology, while vastly improving the dyeing efficiency, is also replacing indigenous knowledge which threatens the indigenous practice, causing the latter disappearing gradually. This study sought to examine the indigenous knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing in Bai communities, so as to provide a foundation for their sustainable development.

Methods

We conducted a semi-structured interview among 344 informants (above age 36) selected through a snowball sampling method. Free lists and participant observation were used as supplementary methods for the interviews. Three quantitative indicators (informant consensus factor [ICF], use frequency, and cultural importance index [CI]) were used to evaluate the indigenous knowledge of the dye-yielding plants.

Results

Twenty-three species belonging to 19 plant taxonomic families were used for dye by Bai communities. We summarized them into four life forms, eight used parts, five colors, three processing methods, and four dyeing methods. Among them, Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) O. Kuntze was the most traditional dyeing plant and has an important cultural value. Location, age, and gender were found to have a significant effect on indigenous knowledge, and the dyeing knowledge was dynamic and influenced by social factors.

Conclusions

Diverse plant resources and rich indigenous knowledge of textile dyeing persist at settlements of Bai communities in Dali Prefecture. However, high labor costs and thinning market of traditional products that use plant dye cause repulsion toward traditional practice. To that, a good income in other profession attracts indigenous people to shift from their tradition of making plant-based dye and associated cultural systems at risk of extinction. More research for market development for products that use plant-based dye is necessary for the conservation of this valuable knowledge and biodiversity protection in Bai communities.

     

Isolation of colour components from native dye-bearing plants in northeastern India

Recently dyes derived from natural sources have emerged as important alternatives to synthetic dyes. A study was initiated in the year 2000 at the RRL (CSIR), Jorhat to extract dyes from parts of five different plant species indigenous to northeastern India. The colour components responsible for dyeing were isolated and their chemical constituents were established based on chemical and spectroscopic investigations. The principal colour components from the species Morinda angustifolia Roxb., Rubia cordifolia Linn. and Tectona grandis Linn. were found to contain mainly anthraquinone moieties in their molecules. Those from the species Mimusops elengi Linn. and Terminalia arjuna (Roxb.) Wight & Arn. contained flavonoid moieties in their molecules. The absorption of dye (%) on fibres increased with increasing concentrations of dye in the dye-bath. Maximum absorption of dyes on fibres was obtained at 3% concentration of dyes obtained from R. cordfolia (35.350%), M. angustifolia (31.580%) and T. grandis (25.888%) and at 4% concentration of the dyes from M. elengi (31.917%) and T. arjuna (12.246%). The K/S values were found to increase with the increase in concentration of mordants. The colour co-ordinates of dyed samples were found to lie in the yellow-red quadrant of the colour space diagram. The dyes obtained from the native plants may be alternative sources to synthetic dyes for the dyeing of natural silk and cotton.     

An Ethnobotanical Survey of Inner-West Anatolia, Turkey

This study is focused on ethnobotanical usages of wild plants growing within the Afyonkarahisar province districts of Sinanpaşa, Hocalar and Dazkırı. Ninety local informants in 11 villages were interviewed. A total of 129 different usages of wild plants in the study area were recorded. Out of 650 plant species commonly present, 93 plant taxa (14.3%) belonging to 43 families were used for medicinal (52 citations), foodstuff (37 citations), fodder (14 citations), dye (six citations), firewood (five citations), construction materials (four citations) and miscellaneous purposes (11 citations). At least 15% of the information regarding ethnobotanical uses of wild plants was obtained by showing herbarium voucher samples to the informants. It was noted that Sideritis leptoclada and Verbascum stenostachyum are endemic to Turkey and their endangered status has markedly increased in recent years because of increased collecting for ethnobotanical purposes. Informants indicate that members of the younger generation have a much reduced interest in ethnobotanical knowledge and that this is a danger to the continued use of local plants.     

耐碱的偶氮染料脱色菌筛选及其特性的研究

从浙江某污水处理厂的活性污泥中筛选出若干株在高pH条件下对偶氮染料酸性大红GR有脱色能力的菌株,经脱色验证得到一株具有高效脱色活性的菌株Z1,经鉴定为巴斯德葡萄球菌(Staphylococcus pasteuri),并对此菌株的脱色特性进行了初步研究。结果表明,在厌氧条件下,Z1在pH7~12,40h对50mg/L的酸性大红GR脱色率均可达90%以上。该菌株对染料有较强的耐受力,在酸性大红GR浓度为300mg/L时,48h的脱色率仍可达93%。此外,该菌株能够对多种偶氮染料脱色,具有较好的脱色广谱性,有望应用于处理工业废水中的偶氮染料。     

Dyeing Plants and Knowledge Transfer in the Yungas Communities of Northwest Argentina

Dyeing Plants and Knowledge Transfer in the Yungas Communities of Northwest Argentina. In the Yungas region of the Salta province, Argentina, interest in the use of plant dyes has revived due to new market demands and the growth of rural tourism. In this study we compare the use of dyeing plants recorded between 1994 and 2000 with those used in 2007 and 2008. We also address factors currently involved in the acquisition and transmission of knowledge. We worked with 39 randomly chosen participants (of which 11 were artisans) in the first stage, and 32 artisans in the second stage. Information was gathered during semi–structured interviews and structured questionnaires. Eleven and 57 dye plant species, and 10 and 2 mordants, were registered in the first and second stage, respectively. The use of soft plant parts has increased, relative to the employment of roots and barks. Pastels predominate among the colors obtained. Mothers are the main transmitters of this knowledge; however, new mechanisms of knowledge acquisition and transfer are gaining importance. These results provide an alternative for the diversification and quality of existing crafts.     

Process balance and product quality in the production of natural indigo from Polygonum tinctorium Ait. applying low-technology methods.

Indigo is the most important blue component in the class of natural dyes for cellulose and protein fibres. In the moderate European climate Polygonum tinctorium Ait. could be an interesting source for natural indigo (Vat blue 1). Following a cultivation of the plant material a simple procedure for the extraction of the indigo precursor indican was investigated with regard to crop and quality of dye obtained. The dependence of the crop on the storage conditions of the harvested plant material was investigated. The results quantify the distinct sensitivity of the fresh material to the time of storage before extraction with regard to the amount of natural indigo obtained, the photometrically determined indigo content in the product and the shade and colour depth observed in standardised dyeing experiments. A basic set of data is presented, which describes the process in terms of consumption of energy, water and chemicals and organic waste released from the extraction step.     

Dye removal by immobilised fungi

Dyes are widely used within the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, printing, textile and leather industries. This has resulted in the discharge of highly coloured effluents that affect water transparency and gas solubility in water bodies. Furthermore, they pose a problem because of their carcinogenicity and toxicity. Therefore, removal of such dyes before discharging them into natural water streams is essential. For this, appropriate treatment technologies are required. The treatment of recalcitrant and toxic dyes with traditional technologies is not always effective or may not be environmentally friendly. This has impelled the search for alternative technologies such as biodegradation with fungi. In particular, ligninolytic fungi and their non-specific oxidative enzymes have been reported to be responsible for the decolouration of different synthetic dyes. Thus, the use of such fungi is becoming a promising alternative to replace or complement the current technologies for dye removal. Processes using immobilised growing cells seem to be more promising than those with free cells, since the immobilisation allows using the microbial cells repeatedly and continuously. This paper reviews the application of fungal immobilisation to dye removal.     

Mucoromycotina sp. HS-3对苯胺蓝染料的降解

采用静置开敞式培养法研究了碳源、氮源、盐度、金属离子对Mucoromycotina sp.HS-3菌降解苯胺蓝的影响。结果表明,菌株脱色最适合条件为葡萄糖1 g/L,硫酸铵0.6 g/L,Fe3+0.15 mmol/L,盐度小于50 g/L,在上述各培养条件下,对浓度为100 mg/L不灭菌的苯胺蓝溶液静止培养5 d,脱色率达95%以上。此外,通过降解前后的苯胺蓝溶液对豇豆和枯草芽孢杆菌进行毒性测试发现,降解后的苯胺蓝溶液毒性明显降低。因此,该菌对处理以苯胺蓝为主要成分的印染废水具有较好的应用潜力。     

The Analysis of Homegarden Plant Diversity at the Mongolian Household Level in Horqin Sandy Land——A Case Study in Horqin Left Wing Real Banner of Inner Mongolia

In order to show the function of agricultural protection of biodiversity at the level of homegarden, comparative analysis was operated between 20 farmer households through random sampling and farmers recommended in Horqin Left Wing Real Banner Tongliao city Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region and 10 farmer households of the Han nationality in the neighborhood. Thirty sampling plots of homegardens are investigated. The result indicates there are 100 homegarden plants in Bashou village, 84 in Hariwusu livestock farm, and 87 in Gongjihao village. It involves the cultivated and wild vegetables, fruits, and plants used for ornamental, medicine and forage. The comparative analysis of species richness demonstrates, among these villages the species richness of Bashou village is highest, while Hariwusu livestock farm is lowest. The former village contributes greatly to the conservation of plant biodiversity. These differences result from their respectively different natural conditions, homegarden areas, homegarden history, homegarden management conditions, traditional knowledge and culture understanding of homegarden manager, local farmers and herdsmen on homegarden plants.The homegarden plants from the three investigated villages are cataloged preliminary in the end of the paper.     

中药诃子制备的天然染料对棉织物的染色研究

本文研究由中药诃子制备的天然染料对棉织物染色方法,分别采用非媒、预媒、同媒和后媒四种染色方法,并运用多种媒染剂进行染色试验。研究结果表明:采用优化的铝预媒染色工艺可染得色泽鲜艳,色牢度较好的黄色棉织物。     

科尔沁沙地蒙古族户级水平庭园植物多样性分析——以内蒙古通辽市科尔沁左翼后旗的研究为例

为了表明农户庭园在户级水平上对农业生物多样性保护的作用,在内蒙古通辽市科尔沁左翼后旗采用随机抽样和农户推荐选择20个农户,同时在邻近地区的汉族地区选择10个农户作为对比分析。在此基础上对其家庭庭园采用典型取样法设立30个样方进行调查。结果表明：巴首嘎查庭园植物有100种、哈日乌苏种畜场共有84种、公济号村有87种,包括栽培及野生蔬菜、水果、观赏、药用、饲用等植物。三个村庄庭园植物物种丰富度分析比较发现巴首嘎查的物种丰富度相对最高,而哈日乌苏种畜场的相对最低,反映巴首村对庭园物种多样性保护的贡献相对最大。这些差异是由于自然条件、庭园面积、庭园历史、庭园管理条件及庭园管理者、当地农牧民对庭园植物的传统知识和文化的认识的差异所造成。文末还对调查的三个村庄的庭园植物进行了初步编目。     

麻栎壳斗染料在羊毛染色中的应用

本文研究了提取自麻栎壳斗的植物染料(麻栎染料)的耐酸、碱稳定性,染浴pH值及铝、铁离子等环保型媒染剂对其染毛织物效果的影响,并且探究了其染色动力学.研究表明,麻栎染料在强酸性染浴(pH=3)中对羊毛织物直接性好,染色后毛织物得棕色,也可采用铝离子、铁离子对直接染色后的毛织物进行后媒染,以得到不同色相的毛织物,尤其是铁后...     

The racialization of Kurdish identity in Turkey

Until the 1990s, the Kurdish issue in Turkey largely involved the Turkish state, an ethnic group and the Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK). The 2000s witnessed community-level clashes between Kurds and Turks, signalling the Turkish population's rise as an actor in the issue. This paper makes two claims. First, communal clashes indicate that Kurdish identity is not an ethnic identity alone, but is experiencing a racialization process, based on four indicators: emphasis on physical characteristics in the definitions of Kurds; linking Kurdish identity with the absence of certain moral characteristics; the increasing assignment, rather than self-assertion, of Kurdish identity; and discourses of racial extinction. Second, the racialization of Kurdish identity corresponds to historical change in conceptions of diversity. Racialization became possible after a distinct Kurdish identity was recognized but normatively unwelcomed.     

Dye shift: a neglected source of genotyping error in molecular ecology

Molecular ecologists must be vigilant in detecting and accounting for genotyping error, yet potential errors stemming from dye-induced mobility shift (dye shift) may be frequently neglected and largely unknown to researchers who employ 3-primer systems with automated genotyping. When left uncorrected, dye shift can lead to mis-scoring alleles and even to falsely calling new alleles if different dyes are used to genotype the same locus in subsequent reactions. When we used four different fluorophore labels from a standard dye set to genotype the same set of loci, differences in the resulting size estimates for a single allele ranged from 2.07 bp to 3.68 bp. The strongest effects were associated with the fluorophore PET, and relative degree of dye shift was inversely related to locus size. We found little evidence in the literature that dye shift is regularly accounted for in 3-primer studies, despite knowledge of this phenomenon existing for over a decade. However, we did find some references to erroneous standard correction factors for the same set of dyes that we tested. We thus reiterate the need for strict quality control when attempting to reduce possible sources of genotyping error, and in cases where different dyes are applied to a single locus, perhaps mistakenly, we strongly discourage researchers from assuming generic correction patterns.     

Dyeing and antimicrobial characteristics of chitosan treated wool fabrics with henna dye

Chitosan, a naturally available biopolymer which is now increasingly being used as a functional finish on textile substrates to impart antimicrobial characteristics and increase dye uptake of fabrics was applied on wool fabrics. Henna a natural dye with proven bactericidal properties was applied on wool fabrics along with chitosan to impart antimicrobial characteristics. The effect of chitosan application on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics was studied by measuring the K/S values of the treated substrates at various concentrations of chitosan and the dye. The antimicrobial properties of chitosan and natural dyes both when applied independently and collectively on fabrics were assessed. The results proved that the chitosan treated wool fabrics showed increase dye uptake of fabrics. The treated fabrics were found to be antimicrobial and the chitosan treatment enhances the antimicrobial characteristics of the dyes. Fastness properties of the applied finish to washing, rubbing and perspiration have also been discussed.