Effect of dimethyl sulfoxide on the phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid mixtures

Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), an efficient transdermal enhancer, is proposed to alter the skin barrier by, at least partially, disturbing the lipid phase of the stratum corneum (SC). We have investigated, using differential scanning calorimetry and vibrational microspectroscopy, the effect of DMSO on the phase behavior of a lipid mixture formed by N-palmitoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine, deuterated palmitic acid, and cholesterol, mimicking the SC lipid phase. Our results reveal that DMSO favors the disordering of the lipid acyl chains. Moreover, the effect of DMSO is strongly concentration dependent and this dependence is reminiscent of that describing the DMSO transdermal enhancement. DMSO-induced fluidification affects primarily the fatty acid in the mixture. Therefore, it is proposed that the molecular mechanism of the transdermal transport enhancement caused by DMSO is associated with its H-bonding properties; its presence alters the interfacial H-bond network involving the fatty acid molecules and consequently the cohesive lipid packing.     

Molecular properties of a stratum corneum model lipid system: large unilamellar vesicles.

Stratum corneum lipids are relatively complex, and there is little detailed understanding of their chemical and physical properties at the molecular level. Large unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) with lipid compositions similar to those of stratum corneum were prepared at pH 9 with commercially available lipids. This system was used as a model system for molecular studies of stratum corneum lipids. LUVs were chosen as the model system as they are comparatively more stable and can be characterized more quantitatively in terms of lipid concentration, surface area, and volume than model systems such as lipid mixture suspensions, lipid films, and small unilamellar vesicles. Results from freeze-fracture and cryo electron microscopy studies of our LUVs showed spherical vesicles. Quasi-elastic light scattering measurements revealed a narrow size distribution, centering around 119 nm. At room temperature, the LUVs were stable for several weeks at pH 9 and for more than 15 h but less than 24 h at pH 6. Differential scanning calorimetry measurements indicated broad endothermic transitions centered near 60-65 degrees C, closely matching the transition temperature reported for stratum corneum lipid extracts. Spin probes, 5-doxylstearic acid and 12-doxylstearic acid, were used for electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) studies of the molecular dynamics of the lipids. EPR results indicated more restricted motion near the polar headgroup region than near the center of the alkyl chain region. Motional profiles of the spin labels near the polar headgroup and within the alkyl chain region in the LUVs were obtained as a function of temperature, ranging from 25 to 90 degrees C. We also found that the partitioning between the lipid and aqueous phases for each spin probe was temperature dependent and was generally correlated with phase transitions observed by differential scanning calorimetry and with alkyl chain mobility observed by EPR. Thus, this LUV system is well suited for additional molecular studies under different experimental conditions.     

Cholesterol sulfate and calcium affect stratum corneum lipid organization over a wide temperature range

The main diffusion barrier for drugs penetrating through the skin is located in the intercellular lipid matrix in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). The main lipid classes in the SC are ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). The lipids in SC are organized into two lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 13 and 6 nm, respectively. Similar lipid organization has been found with equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures in SAXD studies performed at room temperature. However, one may conclude that the phase behavior of the mixtures is similar to that in SC only when the lipid organization of the lipid mixtures resembles that in SC over a wide temperature range. Therefore, in the present study, the organization of the lipid mixtures has been studied in a temperature range between 20 degrees and 95 degrees C. From these experiments it appeared that at elevated temperatures in equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures a new prominent 4.3 nm phase is formed between 35;-55 degrees C, which is absent or only weakly formed in intact human and pig SC, respectively. As it has been suggested that gradients of pH and cholesterol sulfate exist in the SC and that Ca(2+) is present only in the lowest SC layers, the effect of pH, cholesterol sulfate, and Ca(2+) on the lipid phase behavior has been investigated with lipid mixtures. Both an increase in pH from 5 (pH at the skin surface) to 7.4 (pH at the SC;-stratum granulosum interface) and the presence of cholesterol sulfate promote the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase. Furthermore, cholesterol sulfate reduces the amount of CHOL that is present in crystalline domains, causes a shift in the formation of the 4.3 nm phase to higher temperatures, and makes this phase less prominent at higher temperatures. The finding that Ca(2+) counteracts the effects of cholesterol sulfate indicates the importance of a proper balance of minor SC components for appropriate SC lipid organization. In addition, when the findings are extrapolated to the in vivo situation, it seems that cholesterol sulfate is required to dissolve cholesterol in the lamellar phases and to stabilize SC lipid organization. Therefore, a drop in cholesterol sulfate content in the superficial layers of the SC is expected to destabilize the lipid lamellar phases, which might facilitate the desquamation process.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Transition processes in stratum corneum model lipid membranes with a mixture of free fatty acids

The hydration of model membranes based on ceramide 6 with a mixture of free fatty acids most commonly encountered in the native lipid matrix of stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the mammalian skin, has been studied by neutron diffraction. Membrane hydration with water vapor at a temperature of 25°C is characterized by a small increase in the repeat distance Δd ₀ = 1.0 Å, which is comparable with membrane swelling in the presence of excess water. The kinetics of changes in the repeat distance, connected with an increase of the water layer between bilayers during hydration, and water exchange during the processes of hydration and H-D isotopic substitution, consists of a fast initial and a subsequent slow stage and is well described by exponentials with two characteristic times lying in the range from a few tens of minutes to several hundreds of minutes. During hydration at a temperature of 57°C, the repeat distance increases by Δd ₀ = 1.6 Å, after which the membrane irreversibly separates into two phases. One of the phases is formed mainly by long-chain free fatty acids and is characterized by a large decrease in the repeat distance Δd _ph = 8.3 Å on dehydration. The investigation of the structure of model membranes in the temperature range 20–72°C indicated that the system with 20% (w) of cholesterol in the range of 63–67°C undergoes a structural phase transition caused by the melting of hydrocarbon chains of lipids. In the system with a smaller content of cholesterol, no phase transition was observed up to a temperature of 72°C.     

Direct observation of domains in model stratum corneum lipid mixtures by Raman microspectroscopy

Several studies on intact and model stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, have suggested the presence of crystalline domains. In the present work, we used micro-Raman mapping to detect lipid domains in model lipid mixtures formed by an equimolar mixture of ceramides, cholesterol, and palmitic acid, the three main lipid species of SC. We were able to determine the spatial distribution of the three compounds individually based on the systematic analysis of band areas. As a control, we studied freeze-dried lipid mixtures, and the Raman microspectroscopy reported faithfully the homogeneous distribution of the three compounds. Spectral mapping was then performed on hydrated equimolar mixtures carefully annealed. In this case, clear phase separations were observed. Domains enriched in cholesterol, ceramides, or palmitic acid with a size of a few tens of square microns were detected. These findings constitute the first direct evidence of the formation of heterogeneous domains in the SC lipid models in a bulk phase. Raman microspectroscopy is an innovative approach to characterize the conditions leading to the formation of domains and provides new insights into the understanding of the skin barrier.     

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.     

Effect of ceramide acyl chain length on skin permeability and thermotropic phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Stratum corneum ceramides play an essential role in the barrier properties of skin. However, their structure-activity relationships are poorly understood. We investigated the effects of acyl chain length in the non-hydroxy acyl sphingosine type (NS) ceramides on the skin permeability and their thermotropic phase behavior. Neither the long- to medium-chain ceramides (8-24 C) nor free sphingosine produced any changes of the skin barrier function. In contrast, the short-chain ceramides decreased skin electrical impedance and increased skin permeability for two marker drugs, theophylline and indomethacin, with maxima in the 4-6C acyl ceramides. The thermotropic phase behavior of pure ceramides and model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesterol sulfate was studied by differential scanning calorimetry and infrared spectroscopy. Differences in thermotropic phase behavior of these lipids were found: those ceramides that had the greatest impact on the skin barrier properties displayed the lowest phase transitions and formed the least dense model stratum corneum lipid membranes at 32°C. In conclusion, the long hydrophobic chains in the NS-type ceramides are essential for maintaining the skin barrier function. However, this ability is not shared by their short-chain counterparts despite their having the same polar head structure and hydrogen bonding ability.     

Lateral diffusion of small compounds in human stratum corneum and model lipid bilayer systems.

An image-based technique of fluorescence recovery after photobleaching (video-FRAP) was used to measure the lateral diffusion coefficients of a series of nine fluorescent probes in two model lipid bilayer systems, dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC) and DMPC/cholesterol (40 mol%), as well as in human stratum corneum-extracted lipids. The probes were all lipophilic, varied in molecular weight from 223 to 854 Da, and were chosen to characterize the lateral diffusion of small compounds in these bilayer systems. A clear molecular weight dependence of the lateral diffusion coefficients in DMPC bilayers was observed. Values ranged from 6.72 x 10(-8) to 16.2 x 10(-8) cm2/s, with the smaller probes diffusing faster than the larger ones. Measurements in DMPC/cholesterol bilayers, which represent the most thorough characterization of small-solute diffusion in this system, exhibited a similar molecular weight dependence, although the diffusion coefficients were lower, ranging from 1.62 x 10(-8) to 5.60 x 10(-8) cm2/s. Lateral diffusion measurements in stratum corneum-extracted lipids, which represent a novel examination of diffusion in this unique lipid system, also exhibited a molecular weight dependence, with values ranging from 0.306 x 10(-8) to 2.34 x 10(-8) cm2/s. Literature data showed that these strong molecular weight dependencies extend to even smaller compounds than those examined in this study. A two-parameter empirical expression is presented that describes the lateral diffusion coefficient in terms of the solute's molecular weight and captures the size dependence over the range examined. This study illustrates the degree to which small-molecule lateral diffusion in stratum corneum-extracted lipids can be represented by diffusion in DMPC and DMPC/cholesterol bilayer systems, and may lead to a better understanding of small-solute transport across human stratum corneum.     

Models of stratum corneum intercellular membranes: the sphingolipid headgroup is a determinant of phase behavior in mixed lipid dispersions.

During formation of the intercellular membranes of mammalian stratum corneum, sphingomyelin and glucosylceramide are converted enzymatically to ceramide. To model in isolation the possible effect of such a lipid modification on the phase behavior of the ensemble, we used proton and deuterium nuclear magnetic resonance to compare an equimolar dispersion of bovine brain sphingomyelin, cholesterol, and perdeuterated palmitic acid (at pH 6.2), with an equivalent dispersion in which bovine brain ceramide was substituted for sphingomyelin. While the sphingomyelin dispersions remain in a homogeneous fluid lamellar phase from 20-75 degrees C under these conditions, those containing ceramide display complex polymorphism.     

Fatty acid interdigitation in stratum corneum model membranes: a neutron diffraction study

The influence of the chain length of the free fatty acid (FFA) in a stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membrane composed of N-(alpha-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER [AP]), cholesterol (Ch), FFA and cholesterol sulphate (ChS) was investigated by neutron diffraction. The internal nanostructure of the SC lipid membrane in addition to the water distribution function was determined via calculation of the neutron scattering length density profile (Fourier profile). The Fourier profiles of the studied SC model membranes revealed that such membranes have a repeat distance approximately equal to the membrane thickness. Increasing the chain length of the FFA in the CER[AP] based model membrane did not cause an alteration of the internal nanostructure but led to a decrease in the membrane repeat distance from 45.6 A (palmitic acid, C16:0) to 43.7 A (cerotic acid, C26:0) due to a partial interdigitation of the FFA chains. Ceramide [AP] forces the long chain fatty acids to incorporate into the unchanged spacing of the bilayer, thereby obligating the FFA protrude partly through opposing leaflet. Furthermore, the longer chained free fatty acids tend to form a new separate so-called "fatty acid rich phase". Therefore, the elongation of the chain length of the FFA decreases the solubility of the FFA in the SC model membrane based on CER[AP].     

New insights into the structure and hydration of a stratum corneum lipid model membrane by neutron diffraction

The structure and hydration of a stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membrane composed of N-(-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER6)/cholesterol (Ch)/palmitic acid (PA)/cholesterol sulfate (ChS) were characterized by neutron diffraction. The neutron scattering length density across the SC lipid model membrane was calculated from measured diffraction peak intensities. The internal membrane structure and water distribution function across the bilayer were determined. The low hydration of the intermembrane space is a major feature of the SC lipid model membrane. The thickness of the water layer in the SC lipid model membrane is about 1 Å at full hydration. For the composition 55% CER6/25% Ch/15% PA/5% ChS, in a partly dehydrated state (60% humidity) and at 32°C, the lamellar repeat distance and the membrane thickness have the same value of 45.6 Å . The hydrophobic region of the membrane has a thickness of 31.2 Å . A decrease of the Ch content increases the membrane thickness. The water diffusion through the SC lipid model multilamellar membrane is a considerably slow process relative to that through phospholipid membranes. In excess water, the membrane hydration follows an exponential law with two characteristic times of 93 and 44 min. At 81°C and 97% humidity, the membrane separates into two phases with repeat distances of 45.8 and 40.5 Å . Possible conformations of CER6 molecules in the dry and hydrated multilayers are discussed.     

Stratum corneum hydration: phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

The outermost layer of skin, stratum corneum (SC), functions as the major barrier to diffusion. SC has the architecture of dead keratin filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. This work presents a detailed study of the hydration process in extracted SC lipids, isolated corneocytes and intact SC. Using isothermal sorption microcalorimetry and relaxation and wideline (1)H NMR, we study these systems at varying degrees of hydration/relative humidities (RH) at 25 degrees C. The basic findings are (i) there is a substantial swelling both of SC lipids, the corneocytes and the intact SC at high RH. At low RHs corneocytes take up more water than SC lipids do, while at high RHs swelling of SC lipids is more pronounced than that of corneocytes. (ii) Lipids in a fluid state are present in both extracted SC lipids and in the intact SC. (iii) The fraction of fluid lipids is lower at 1.4% water content than at 15% but remains virtually constant as the water content is further increased. (iv) Three exothermic phase transitions are detected in the SC lipids at RH=91-94%, and we speculate that the lipid re-organization is responsible for the hydration-induced variations in SC permeability. (v) The hydration causes swelling in the corneocytes, while it does not affect the mobility of solid components (keratin filaments).     

Influence of different ceramides on the structure of in vitro model lipid systems of the stratum corneum lipid matrix

Human stratum corneum (SC) consists of several layers of keratinized corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure which is considered to constitute the major barrier to percutaneous penetration. Artificial mixtures of SC lipids are often used as model systems to mimic the skin barrier or to investigate the effects of substances on the phase behaviour of the models. In the present study a SC lipid model composed of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides was used to investigate the effect of three different commercially available ceramide types on the microstructure and the physicochemical behaviour of the lipids. Polarized light microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, small-angle X-ray diffraction, wide-angle X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used for physicochemical characterization. The results revealed a lamellar structure for all models but showed differences with regard to the thermal and optical behaviour depending obviously on the composition of the ceramide mixtures. A model containing a mixture of Cer[AS] was comparable to human SC lipids.     

Homogeneous transport in a heterogeneous membrane: water diffusion across human stratum corneum in vivo.

The objective of this study was to determine whether a structurally heterogeneous biomembrane, human stratum corneum (SC), behaved as a homogeneous barrier to water transport. The question is relevant because the principal function of the SC in vivo is to provide a barrier to the insensible loss of tissue water across the skin. Impedance spectra (IS) of the skin and measurements of the rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were recorded sequentially in vivo in human subjects as layers of the SC were progressively removed by the serial application of adhesive tape strips. The low-frequency (< or = 100 rad s-1) impedance of skin was much more significantly affected by tape stripping than the higher frequency values; removal of the outermost SC layer had the largest effect. In contrast, TEWL changed little as the outer SC layers were stripped off, but increased dramatically when 6-8 microns of the tissue had been removed. It follows that the two noninvasive techniques probe SC barrier integrity in somewhat different ways. After SC removal, recovery of barrier function, as assessed by increasing values of the low-frequency impedance, apparently proceeded faster than TEWL decreased to the prestripping control. The variation of TEWL as a function of SC removal behaved in a manner entirely consistent with a homogeneous barrier, thereby permitting the apparent SC diffusivity of water to be found. Skin impedance (low frequency) was correlated with the relative concentration of water within the SC, thus providing an in vivo probe for skin hydration. Finally, the SC permeability coefficient to water, as a function of SC thickness, was calculated and correlated with the corresponding values of skin admittance derived from IS.     

Arrangement of ceramide [EOS] in a stratum corneum lipid model matrix: new aspects revealed by neutron diffraction studies

The lipid matrix in stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in the barrier function of the mammalian skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). Especially the unique-structured omega-acylceramide CER[EOS] is regarded to be essential for skin barrier properties by inducing the formation of a long-periodicity phase of 130 angstroms (LPP). In the present study, the arrangement of CER[EOS], either mixed with CER[AP] and CHOL or with CER[AP], CHOL and palmitic acid (PA), inside a SC lipid model membrane has been studied for the first time by neutron diffraction. For a mixed CER[EOS]/CER[AP]/CHOL membrane in a partly dehydrated state, the internal membrane nanostructure, i.e. the neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface, was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The membrane repeat distance is equal to that of the formerly used SC lipid model system composed of CER[AP]/CHOL/PA/ChS. By comparing both the neutron scattering length density profiles, a possible arrangement of synthetic long-chain CER[EOS] molecules inside a SC lipid model matrix is suggested. The analysis of the internal membrane nanostructure implies that one CER[EOS] molecule penetrates from one membrane layer into an adjacent layer. A 130 angstroms periodicity phase could not be observed under experimental conditions, either in CER/CHOL mixtures or in CER/CHOL/FFA mixture. CER[EOS] can be arranged inside a phase with a repeat unit of 45.2 angstroms which is predominately formed by short-chain CER[AP] with distinct polarity.