Perfume formulation: words and chats

What does it mean to create fragrances with materials from chemistry and/or from nature? How are they used to display their characteristic differences, their own personality? Is it easier to create with synthetic raw materials or with essential oils? This review explains why a perfume formulation corresponds in fact to a conversation, an interplay between synthetic and natural perfumery materials. A synthetic raw material carries a single information, and usually is very linear. Its smell is uniform, clear, and faithful. Natural raw materials, on the contrary, provide a strong, complex and generous image. While a synthetic material can be seen as a single word, a natural one such as rose oil could be compared to chatting: cold, warm, sticky, heavy, transparent, pepper, green, metallic, smooth, watery, fruity…? full of information. Yet, if a very small amount of the natural material is used, nothing happens, the fragrance will not change. However, if a large amount is used, the rose oil will swallow up everything else. The fragrance will smell of nothing else except rose! To formulate a perfume is not to create a culinary recipe, with only dosing the ingredients in well‐balanced amounts. To formulate rather means to flexibly knit materials together with a lively stitch, meeting or repelling each other, building a pleasant form, which is neither fixed, nor solid, nor rigid. A fragrance has an overall structure, which ranges from a clear sound, made up of stable, unique, and linear items, to a background chat, comfortable and reassuring. But that does, of course, not mean that there is only one way of creating a fragrance!     

The primary moult of the Lapwing

This study of primary moult in the Lapwing, using conventional methodology, shows that the duration is considerably longer than was estimated previously by a novel technique based on the collection of discarded primaries from roost sites.     

Divergent rectrix moult: the implications and conditions of moult sequence

Wing and tail morphology strongly affect flight performance which may consequently decline during feather moult due to the creation of feather gaps in the flight‐surface. Hence, the size and shape of moult‐related gaps may directly affect flight capacity. Here, I examined the divergent rectrix moult sequence compared to the more common distal moult sequence. In the divergent moult, the focus of rectrix moult is shifted from the tail centre (R₁; rectrices numbered distally from mid‐tail outward) to another rectrix (R₂ or R₃), and then rectrices are moulted bidirectionally, towards the tail centre and outwards. The result of this moult sequence is the splitting of the tail gap into multiple smaller gaps. Using a large moult database including 5669 individuals of 47 Western Palaearctic passerine species, I found evidence of divergent moult sequence for only seven species. Using comparative and experimental approaches, I found that the divergent rectrix sequence is correlated with higher moult speed and lower aerodynamic cost. Furthermore, the divergent rectrix sequence is more common among adults than juveniles. This work focused on the feather moult sequence – a seldom studied aspect of the avian life‐history. I propose that moult‐related aerodynamic costs may be an important evolutionary factor not only in moult speed, but also in moult sequence.     

Motor stereotypy and diversity in songs of mimic thrushes

The relationship between the motor and acoustic similarity of song was examined in brown thrashers (Toxostoma rufum) and grey catbirds (Dumetella carolinensis) (family Mimidae), which have very large song repertoires and sometimes mimic other species. Motor similarity was assessed by cross correlation of syringeal airflows and air sac pressures that accompany sound production. Although most syllables were sung only once in the song analyzed, some were repeated, either immediately forming a couplet, or after a period of intervening song, as a distant repetition. Both couplets and distant repetitions are produced by distinctive, stereotyped motor patterns. Their motor similarity does not decrease as the time interval between repetitions increases, suggesting that repeated syllables are stored in memory as fixed motor programs. The acoustic similarity between nonrepeated syllables, as indicated by correlation of their spectrograms, has a significant positive correlation with their motor similarity. This correlation is weak, however, suggesting that there is no simple linear relationship between motor action and acoustic output and that similar sounds may sometimes be produced by different motor mechanisms. When compared without regard to the sequence in which they are sung, syllables paired for maximum spectral similarity form a continuum with repeated syllables in terms of their acoustic and motor similarity. The prominence of couplets in the “syntax” of normal song is enhanced by the dissimilarity of successive nonrepeated syllables that make up the remainder of the song. © 1996 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Estimating survival of thrushes: modeling capture-recapture probabilities

The stochastic modeling technique serves as a way to correctly separate "return rate" of marked animals into survival rate (phi) and capture probability (p). The method can readily be used with the program MARK freely distributed through Internet (Cooch, White, 2009). Input data for the program consist of "capture histories" of marked animals--strings of units and zeros indicating presence or absence of the individual among captures (or sightings) along the set of consequent recapture occasions (e.g., years). Probability of any history is a product of binomial probabilities phi, p or their complements (1 - phi) and (1 - p) for each year of observation over the individual. Assigning certain values to parameters phi and p, one can predict the composition of all individual histories in the sample and assess the likelihood of the prediction. The survival parameters for different occasions and cohorts of individuals can be set either equal or different, as well as recapture parameters can be set in different ways. There is a possibility to constraint the parameters, according to the hypothesis being tested, in the form of a specific model. Within the specified constraints, the program searches for parameter values that describe the observed composition of histories with the maximum likelihood. It computes the parameter estimates along with confidence limits and the overall model likelihood. There is a set of tools for testing the model goodness-of-fit under assumption of equality of survival rates among individuals and independence of their fates. Other tools offer a proper selection among a possible variety of models, providing the best parity between details and precision in describing reality. The method was applied to 20-yr recapture and resighting data series on 4 thrush species (genera Turdus, Zoothera) breeding in the Yenisei River floodplain within the middle taiga subzone. The capture probabilities were quite independent of observational efforts fluctuations while differing significantly between the species and sexes. The estimates of adult survival rate, obtained for the Siberian migratory populations, were lower than those for sedentary populations from both the tropics and intermediate latitudes with marine climate (data by Ricklefs, 1997). Two factors, the average temperature influencing birds during their annual movements, and climatic seasonality (temperature difference between summer and winter) in the breeding area, fit the latitudinal pattern of survival most closely (R2 = 0.90). Final survival of migrants reflects an adaptive life history compromise for use of superabundant resources in breeding area at the cost of avoidance of severe winter conditions.     

Pre‐moult patterns of habitat use and moult site selection by Brent Geese Branta bernicla nigricans: individuals prospect for moult sites

In environments where habitat quality varies, the mechanism by which individuals assess and select habitats has significant consequences on their spatial distribution and ability to respond to environmental change. Each year, thousands of Black Brent Geese Branta bernicla nigricans migrate to the Teshekpuk Lake Special Area (TLSA), Alaska, to undergo a flightless wing‐moult. Over the last three decades, moulting Brent Geese have changed their distribution within the TLSA, redistributing from inland, freshwater wetlands towards coastal, brackish wetlands. To understand better the mechanism by which Brent Geese select a moult site, as well as reasons behind the long‐term shift of moulting distributions, we examined movements and habitat use of birds marked with GPS‐transmitters during the pre‐moult period. Brent Geese did not generally migrate directly to their moulting site during the pre‐moult period, defined as the time from arrival at the moulting grounds to the onset of flightlessness. Rather, individuals used an average of 3.7 ± 0.6 (se) wetland complexes and travelled a minimum of 95.14 ± 15.84 km during the pre‐moult period. Moreover, 69% of Brent Geese visited their final moult site only to leave and visit other sites before returning for the flightless moult. Brent Geese spent significant time in both inland freshwater and coastal estuarine habitats during the pre‐moult, irrespective of the habitat in which they ultimately moulted. Whereas previous research suggested that Brent Geese choose moult sites based largely upon the experience of previous years, our observations suggest a mechanism of moult site selection whereby Brent Geese ‘prospect’ for moult sites, visiting multiple potential moult sites across varied habitat types, presumably gathering information from each site and correspondingly using this information to choose an appropriate moult site. By allowing individuals to adjust their distributions in response to habitat quality cues that may change annually, such as forage type and availability, prospecting may have influenced the long‐term shift in moulting distributions of Brent Geese in the TLSA.     

Motor dynamics of song production by mimic thrushes

In brown thrashers (Toxostoma rufum) and grey catbirds (Dumetella carolinensis) neither side of the syrinx has a consistently dominant role in song production. During song, the two sides operate independently, but in close cooperation with each other and with the respiratory muscles which are capable of adjusting expiratory effort to maintain a constant rate of syringeal airflow despite sudden changes in syringeal resistance. Phonation is frequently switched from one side of the syrinx to the other, both between syllables and within a syllable. When both sides of the syrinx produce sound simultaneously, their respective contributions are seldom harmonically related. The resulting “two-voice” syllables sometimes contain difference tones with prominent sinusoidal amplitude modulation (AM). Rarely, both sides simultaneously produce the same sound. In general, however, the frequency range of sound contributed by the right syrinx is higher than that of the left syrinx. The right syrinx is also primarily responsible for producing a rapid cyclical amplitude modulation which is a characteristic feature of some syllables. This kind of AM is generated by either repetitive brief bursts of sound from the right side that modulate the amplitude of a continuous sound arising on the left side or cyclically opening the right syrinx, allowing unmodulated expiratory air to bypass the phonating left side. 1994 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Sociable Weaver biometrics and primary moult

The biometric and primary moult data housed at the South African Bird Ringing Unit (SAFRING) were analysed for the Sociable Weaver Philetairus socius. The average body mass and wing length was 27.9g (SD = 2.2) and 74.1mm (SD = 2.5), respectively. Variation in these parameters is not clearly correlated with region, season or climate, other than a negative correlation of body mass with average annual water deficiency. Body mass of Sociable Weavers near Kimberley showed a longterm decrease of 2.9g, probably due to stabilising selection on mass. Primary moult duration varied from 152 days to 169 days and started between 26 January and 31 December in two populations (socius and South African eremnus respectively). Individual primaries moulted mainly one at a time, each taking 20–28 days to grow fully. Prolonged moult duration in this species is probably an adaptation to reduce energy expenditure, and to grow more durable feathers due to abrasion in entering the nest. The lack of clear patterns of geographical variation in biometrics indicates that the contiguous populations of Sociable Weaver should belong to the nominate species. The biometric and primary moult data housed at the South African Bird Ringing Unit (SAFRING) were analysed for the Sociable Weaver Philetairus socius. The average body mass and wing length was 27.9g (SD = 2.2) and 74.1mm (SD = 2.5), respectively. Variation in these parameters is not clearly correlated with region, season or climate, other than a negative correlation of body mass with average annual water deficiency. Body mass of Sociable Weavers near Kimberley showed a longterm decrease of 2.9g, probably due to stabilising selection on mass. Primary moult duration varied from 152 days to 169 days and started between 26 January and 31 December in two populations (socius and South African eremnus respectively). Individual primaries moulted mainly one at a time, each taking 20–28 days to grow fully. Prolonged moult duration in this species is probably an adaptation to reduce energy expenditure, and to grow more durable feathers due to abrasion in entering the nest. The lack of clear patterns of geographical variation in biometrics indicates that the contiguous populations of Sociable Weaver should belong to the nominate species.     

Prebreeding moult, plumage and evidence for a presupplemental moult in the Great Knot Calidris tenuirostris

We studied the prebreeding moult and resulting plumage in a long-distance migrant sandpiper (Scolopacidae), the Great Knot Calidris tenuirostris , on the non-breeding grounds (northwest Australia), on arrival at the staging grounds after the first migratory flight (eastern China) and on or near the Russian breeding grounds (Russian data from museum specimens). We show that breeding plumage scores and breast blackness were affected not only by the increase in moulted feathers but also in the wearing down of overlaying pale tips of fresh feathers. Birds migrating from Australia and arriving in China had completed or suspended moult, but more moult must occur in Asia as Russian specimens had moulted more of their mantle and scapular feathers. Russian birds had significantly more red feathering on their upperparts than had birds in Australia or those arriving in China. The increase in reddish feathers cannot by accounted for simply by continuation of the prealternate moult. Instead, a third, presupplemental moult must occur, in which red-marked feathers replace some scapular and especially mantle feathers that were acquired in a prealternate moult only 1–3 months earlier. Great Knot sexes show little size and plumage dimorphism, whereas two other sandpipers that have supplemental plumages (Ruff Philomachus pugnax and Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica ) are thought to be highly sexually selected. Bidirectional sexual selection may therefore be involved in the evolution of a supplemental plumage in Great Knots.     

Versatility and continuity in the songs of thrushes Turdus spp.

A relationship between continuity and versatility was proposed by Hartshorne as a general feature of song organization in birds and argued to be linked to the avoidance of habituation (the monotony threshold principle). Thrushes of the genus Turdus vary greatly in song repertoire size, from the Redwing with a single song phrase to the Song Thrush which normally possesses well over 100 (Table 1), so that this group is well suited to looking for such a relationship. Recordings of 14 Turdus species were used to do so. Species in which successive songs do differ were indeed found to sing with shorter intervals between songs, though no equivalent relationship was found at the level of individual sound elements. There was a suggestion that species might fall into two contrasting groups without intermediates, one with continuous and highly varied songs and the other with discrete and simple songs. It is suggested that the relationship between continuity and versatility is a real phemomenon but that it is unlikely to be explained in the way that Hartshorne proposed. More likely is the hypothesis that continuous and varied songs have evolved primarily as mate attractants through sexual selection, while the principal role of discrete and simple songs is in communication between males.     

Migration and moult in Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler

From 1987 to 1989, 11 passerine species caught during their autumn migration on the Mettnau peninsula at Lake Constance (SW Germany) were examined for weight, visible fat deposition and actual fat load using a Soxhlet extraction. From the amount of fat deposited, mean theoretical flight ranges were calculated. Visible stored fat is only deposited in large quantities towards the end of the migration period. Before migration, the mean fat content stored in relation to fat-free dry weight ranges from 9–12%, whereas during migration it ranges from 13–30%. There is no difference between long- and short-distance migrants. A weight change cannot be accounted for exclusively by fat deposition. The mean weight of first-captures was low in all species. Only 5 of the 11 species studied gained weight more or less extensively during the migration period. All species showed an increase in fat deposition during migration. Since 1972, a marked annual decrease in average body weight during migration was found in the Reed Warbler. On average, water content in relation to fat-free dry weight is between 208 and 254% during migration and between 216 and 270% during the premigration period. For the species studied at Mettnau, mean theoretical flight range is 49 to 85 km during the pre-migration period and 84 to 216 km during migration (n = 211 birds). An average flight range of up to 100 km implies short migrational ‘legs’ from Lake Constance to the nearby Swiss midlands, which is probable if only parts of the small fat reserves are utilized during their flight. Because birds have to increase their initial fat stores considerably to reach and cross the Mediterranean, a low fat deposition rate may lead to problems before they reach their winter quarters. Short flight ranges are discussed in connection with trends of decreasing populations in central Europe.     

Relationships among timing of moult,moult duration and feather mass in long‐distance migratory passerines

Moult is a costly but necessary process in avian life, which displays two main temporal patterns within the annual cycle of birds (summer and winter moult). Timing of moult can affect its duration and consequently the amount of material invested in feathers, which could have a considerable influence on feather structure and functionality. In this study, we used two complementary approaches to test whether moult duration and feather mass vary in relation to the timing of moult. Firstly, we conducted a comparative study between a sample of long‐distance migratory passerine species which differ in moult pattern. Secondly, we took advantage of the willow warbler's Phylloscopus trochilus biannual moult, for which it is well‐known that winter moult takes longer than summer moult, to assess between‐moult variation in feather mass. Our comparative analysis showed that summer moulting species performed significantly shorter moults than winter moulters. We also detected that feathers produced in winter were comparatively heavier than those produced in summer, both in between‐species comparison and between moults of the willow warbler. These results suggest the existence of a trade‐off between moult speed and feather mass mediated by timing of moult, which could contribute to explain the diversity of moult patterns in passerines.     

The timing of breeding and moult of the Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica

The Lesser Striped Swallow seems to have two different breeding populations. The birds south of 10°s breed largely during the spring and summer (July to April) and moult from about April to August. Birds further north breed throughout the year, but mainly during the first seven months of the year. Moult in the birds north of 10°s is from July to February when few birds are breeding. There seem to be two clearly defined moulting populations, with the southern breeding population moulting largely south of 10°s and the east African breeding population moulting largely north of the equator. In both populationsmoult and breeding seem to be separated in time, at least at the individual level.     

Timing and duration of moult in three populations of Purple Sandpipers Calidris maritima with different moult/migration patterns

Timing and duration of primary moult in three populations of Purple Sandpipers Calidris maritima were described and discussed in relation to the birds’ need to complete moult before the onset of winter, when resources are required for survival. We predicted that moult would be completed earlier by birds wintering at higher latitudes. The south Norwegian breeding population, which moults and winters along the coast of east Britain (54–57°N) had a mean starting date of 21 July for primary moult (16 July for females and 24 July for males), a mean duration of 61 days, and completed on 20 September. Resident Icelandic (64–65°N) birds had a mean starting date of 22 July for primary moult (17 July for females and 25 July for males), a mean duration of 51 days, and completed on 11 September. Birds moulting in north Norway (70°N) arrived in north Norway in suspended primary moult or without having started moult, and completed it there. They had a mean completion date of 2 November for primary moult (31 October for females and 3 November for males). Starting date and duration could not be estimated because some suspended moult for an undetermined period, but it was thought that they started in late August. It is likely that most originated from Russia. The onset of moult appears to be set by the end of breeding and there is little overlap in these two events. The earlier start of moult by females in all three populations may be because they abandon the males when the chicks hatch, leaving the males to attend the chicks. Although the duration of primary moult followed the expected trend, being fastest in north Norway and slowest in Britain, the onset of moult was so late in north Norway that they had an unexpectedly late completion date, despite their rapid moult. The late completion of primary moult in north Norway suggests that wintering in the far north may not pose the energetic constraints on Purple Sandpipers that had previously been supposed.     

Wingbeat frequency and flap-pause ratio during natural migratory flight in thrushes

Powered flapping flight has evolved independently in many differenttaxa. For flapping fliers, wingbeat parameters such as frequencyand amplitude are the primary determinants of these animals’energetic expenditure during flight. Here we present data onwingbeat frequency and amplitude for three New World thrushspecies during 15 entire nocturnal migratory flights over theMidwestern United States. Using continuous (non-pulsing) radiotransmitters, we were able to measure wingbeat frequency andrelative amplitude of wingbeats as well as the characteristicsof flap-pauses. Contrary to previous telemetric findings, allof the individuals we followed used both flapping-only and flap-pauseflight. During migratory flights, wingbeat frequency, effectivewingbeat frequency, and amplitude were highest during initialascent. Effective wingbeat frequency and amplitude were lowestduring final descent. We show that identification of speciesbased solely on characteristics of the wingbeat e.g., duringradar studies, can be difficult because variables such as wingbeatfrequency and amplitude, wingbeat pausing, and pattern of beatsand pauses vary between individuals of the same species andeven within individual flights. We also show that observed wingbeatfrequencies were lower than those predicted by theoretical models.We speculate that this may be because theoretical predictionsare generally based on (1) data from larger birds and (2) datafrom diurnal flights. We found that diurnal wingbeat frequenciesof thrushes were generally higher than were those during nocturnalmigratory flight. Finally, we suggest that rather than remainingat a single altitude during flight or climbing slightly as theoreticalmodels predict, thrushes often moved up and down in the aircolumn, perhaps searching for favorable atmospheric conditions.     

The biannual primary moult of Willow Warblers Phylloscopus trochilus in Europe and Africa

The Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus is one of the few bird species that undergoes two primary moults a year, a post-nuptial moult in the breeding area and a moult in the wintering area. Primary-moult data for Willow Warblers from Finland, Sweden, Britain, the Netherlands, Belgium. Guinea-Bissau, Uganda, Kenya, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa are analysed. The parameters of primary moult (mean starting date, standard deviation of starting date, and duration) are estimated using the techniques of Underhill & Zucchini (T.988 Ibis 1 30: 358–372) and Underhill, Zucchini & Summers (1990 Ibis 132: 118-12 3). The scheduling of moult in relation to theother main components of the annual cycle, breeding and migration, is considered. The mean durations of post-nuptial moult for P. t. trochilus and P. t. acredula are 36.5 and 38.3 days, respectively; the start and termination of moult for P. t. trochilus are about 3.5 days later for each degree of latitude northwards, and the start and termination of moult for P. t. acredula, are about 10 days later than that of the most northerly populations of P. t. trochilus studied. Females start their postnuptial moult about 10 days later than males. Southward migration commences as soon as post-nuptial moult is complete. There is an increasing constraint on the timing of breeding and post-nuptial moult events at higher latitudes, leading to overlap between them. The duration of pre-nuptial moult is longer than that of post-nuptial moult, and is completed shortly prior to northward migration.     

The timing of breeding and moult of the Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica

The Lesser Striped Swallow seems to have two different breeding populations. The birds south of 10°S breed largely during the spring and summer (July to April) and moult from about April to August. Birds further north breed throughout the year, but mainly during the first seven months of the year. Moult in the birds north of 10°S is from July to February when few birds are breeding. There seem to be two clearly defined moulting populations, with the southern breeding population moulting largely south of 10°S and the east African breeding population moulting largely north of the equator. In both populations moult and breeding seem to be separated in time, at least at the individual level.     

The effects of delaying the start of moult on the duration of moult, primary feather growth rates and feather mass in Common Starlings Sturnus vulgaris

In many species of birds there is a close relationship between the end of breeding and the start of moult. Late-breeding birds therefore often start to moult late, but then moult more rapidly. This is an adaptive mechanism mediated by decreasing day lengths that allows late-breeding birds to complete moult in time. This study asked how these birds complete moult of the primary feathers more rapidly, and the consequences of this on the mass of primary feathers. Common Starlings Sturnus vulgaris were induced to moult rapidly in one of two ways. In the first experiment, one group was exposed to artificially decreasing photoperiods from the start of moult, whereas the control group remained on a constant long photoperiod. The second experiment was a more realistic simulation. Two groups were allowed to moult in an outdoor aviary. One group started to moult at the normal time. In the other, the start of moult was delayed by 3 weeks with an implant of testosterone. The duration of moult was significantly reduced in both the group experiencing artificially decreasing photoperiods and the group in which the start of moult was delayed. The faster moult rate was achieved by moulting more feathers concurrently. The rate of increase in length of each of the primary feathers, and their final length, did not differ between groups. The rate at which total new primary feather mass was accumulated was greater in more rapidly moulting birds, but this was insufficient to compensate for the greater numbers of feathers being grown concurrently. Consequently, the rate of increase in mass of individual feathers, and the final feather mass, were less in the rapidly moulting birds. A 3-week delay in the start of moult is not an unrealistic scenario. That this caused a measurable decrease in feather mass suggests that late-breeding birds are indeed likely to suffer a real decrease in the quality of plumage grown during the subsequent moult.