Effect of ceramide acyl chain length on skin permeability and thermotropic phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Stratum corneum ceramides play an essential role in the barrier properties of skin. However, their structure-activity relationships are poorly understood. We investigated the effects of acyl chain length in the non-hydroxy acyl sphingosine type (NS) ceramides on the skin permeability and their thermotropic phase behavior. Neither the long- to medium-chain ceramides (8-24 C) nor free sphingosine produced any changes of the skin barrier function. In contrast, the short-chain ceramides decreased skin electrical impedance and increased skin permeability for two marker drugs, theophylline and indomethacin, with maxima in the 4-6C acyl ceramides. The thermotropic phase behavior of pure ceramides and model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesterol sulfate was studied by differential scanning calorimetry and infrared spectroscopy. Differences in thermotropic phase behavior of these lipids were found: those ceramides that had the greatest impact on the skin barrier properties displayed the lowest phase transitions and formed the least dense model stratum corneum lipid membranes at 32°C. In conclusion, the long hydrophobic chains in the NS-type ceramides are essential for maintaining the skin barrier function. However, this ability is not shared by their short-chain counterparts despite their having the same polar head structure and hydrogen bonding ability.     

The stratum corneum lipid thermotropic phase behavior.

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of mammalian skin, is considered the least permeable skin layer to the diffusion of water and other solutes. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid multilayer domain is the diffusional pathway for most lipophilic solutes. Fluidization of the lipid multilayers is believed to result in the loss of barrier properties of the stratum corneum. Current investigations address the lipid thermotropic phase behavior in terms of lipid alkyl chain packing, mobility and conformational order as measured by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. A solid-solid phase transition is observed with increased alkyl chain mobility followed by a gel to liquid-crystalline phase transition near 65 degrees C. These results further elucidate the role of lipid fluidity that may contribute to the transport properties of the stratum corneum.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum.

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while alpha-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified omega-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T2) at a slightly lower temperature (68 degrees C) than human skin (74 degrees C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

Local temperature rises influence in vivo electroporation pore development: a numerical stratum corneum lipid phase transition model

Electroporation is an approach used to enhance transdermal transport of large molecules in which the skin is exposed to a series of electric pulses. Electroporation temporarily destabilizes the structure of the outer skin layer, the stratum corneum, by creating microscopic pores through which agents, ordinarily unable to pass into the skin, are able to pass through this outer barrier. Long duration electroporation pulses can cause localized temperature rises, which result in thermotropic phase transitions within the lipid bilayer matrix of the stratum corneum. This paper focuses on electroporation pore development resulting from localized Joule heating. This study presents a theoretical model of electroporation, which incorporates stratum corneum lipid melting with electrical and thermal energy equations. A transient finite volume model is developed representing electroporation of in vivo human skin, in which stratum corneum lipid phase transitions are modeled as a series of melting processes. The results confirm that applied voltage to the skin results in high current densities within the less resistive regions of the stratum corneum. The model captures highly localized Joule heating within the stratum corneum and subsequent temperature rises, which propagate radially outward. Electroporation pore development resulting from the decrease in resistance associated with lipid melting is captured by the lipid phase transition model. As the effective pore radius grows, current density and subsequent Joule heating values decrease.     

Transepidermal water loss: the signal for recovery of barrier structure and function

Previous studies have demonstrated that perturbations in barrier function stimulate epidermal lipid synthesis and that this increase can be prevented by occlusive membranes. These observations suggest that epidermal lipid synthesis might be related to barrier function and raised the question whether transcutaneous water flux might regulate epidermal lipogenesis. In the present study we first abrogated the barrier with acetone, and then compared the rate of repletion of stainable lipids, barrier recovery, and epidermal lipogenesis in animals covered with occlusive membranes or vapor-permeable membranes versus uncovered animals. Acetone treatment of hairless mice removed stainable neutral lipids from the stratum corneum, with repletion evident both biochemically and histochemically within 48 hr in uncovered animals. In contrast, when the animals were covered with an occlusive membrane, the usual return of stratum corneum lipids was aborted. Since application of vapor-permeable membranes allowed normal lipid repletion, occlusion alone is not responsible for the inhibition of lipid repletion. Acetone treatment also perturbed epidermal barrier function, which returned to normal in uncovered animals in parallel with the reappearance of stratum corneum lipid. However, when animals were covered with an occlusive membrane, barrier function did not recover normally. In contrast, occlusion with vapor-permeable membranes allowed barrier function to recover normally. Finally, whereas occlusive membranes prevented the characteristic increase in epidermal lipid synthesis that follows barrier perturbation, epidermal lipid synthesis was increased in animals covered with a vapor-permeable membrane. These results point to transepidermal water flux itself as the signal that regulates epidermal lipid synthesis, which is associated first with the redeposition of stratum corneum lipids and then the normalization of stratum corneum barrier function.     

Direct visualization of lipid domains in human skin stratum corneum's lipid membranes: effect of pH and temperature

The main function of skin is to serve as a physical barrier between the body and the environment. This barrier capacity is in turn a function of the physical state and structural organization of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. This lipid matrix is essentially composed of very long chain saturated ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Three unsolved key questions are i), whether the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix is constituted by a single gel phase or by coexisting crystalline (solid) domains; ii), whether a separate liquid crystalline phase is present; and iii), whether pH has a direct effect on the lipid matrix phase behavior. In this work the lateral structure of membranes composed of lipids extracted from human skin stratum corneum was studied in a broad temperature range (10 degrees C-90 degrees C) using different techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, fluorescence spectroscopy, and two-photon excitation and laser scanning confocal fluorescence microscopy. Here we show that hydrated bilayers of human skin stratum corneum lipids express a giant sponge-like morphology with dimensions corresponding to the global three-dimensional morphology of the stratum corneum extracellular space. These structures can be directly visualized using the aforementioned fluorescence microscopy techniques. At skin physiological temperatures (28 degrees C-32 degrees C), the phase state of these hydrated bilayers correspond microscopically (radial resolution limit 300 nm) to a single gel phase at pH 7, coexistence of different gel phases between pH 5 and 6, and no fluid phase at any pH. This observation suggests that the local pH in the stratum corneum may control the physical properties of the extracellular lipid matrix by regulating membrane lateral structure and stability.     

Gas flux through human skin: effect of temperature, stripping, and inspired tension

The flux of He and O2 through intact adult human skin was measured at various inspired concentrations and skin temperatures. The skin surface was then stripped with cellophane tape to alter the diffusional conductance of the stratum corneum. He flux for stripped skin was used to estimate skin perfusion as a function of local temperature, and diffusional conductance for O2 was estimated from O2 flux and perfusion. The flux of He or O2 at constant skin temperature can be related to inspired concentration by a simple linear model. Increasing surface temperature in the range 33-43 degrees C produced a much larger increase in O2 flux than in He flux for intact skin. Skin stripping greatly increased skin O2 flux. Estimated skin conductance for O2 showed a more marked temperature dependence than estimated skin perfusion. The results suggest that raising skin temperature in the range 38-43 degrees C has only a modest effect on skin perfusion and that stratum corneum conductance may have a major role in the large increase of O2 flux with temperature.     

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: Lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while α-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified ω-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition (T₂) at a slightly lower temperature (68 °C) than human skin (74 °C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.     

Lipid chain dynamics in stratum corneum studied by spin label electron paramagnetic resonance

The lipid chain motions in stratum corneum (SC) membranes have been studied through electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy of stearic acid spin-labeled at the 5th, 12th and 16th carbon atom positions of the acyl chain. Lipids have been extracted from SC with a series of chloroform/methanol mixtures, in order to compare the molecular dynamics and the thermotropic behavior in intact SC, lipid-depleted SC (containing covalently bound lipids of the corneocyte envelope) and dispersion of extracted SC lipids. The segmental motion of 5- and 12-doxylstearic acid (5- and 12-DSA) and the rotational correlation time of 16-doxylstearic acid (16-DSA) showed that the envelope lipids are more rigid and the extracted lipids are more fluid than the lipids of the intact SC over the range of temperature measured. The lower fluidity observed for the corneocyte envelope, that may be caused mainly due to lipid-protein interactions, suggests a major contribution of this lipid domain to the barrier function of SC. Changes in the activation energy for reorientational diffusion of the 16-DSA spin label showed apparent phase transitions around 54 degrees C, for the three SC samples. Some lipid reorganization may occur in SC above 54 degrees C, in agreement with results reported from studies with several other techniques. This reorganization is sensitive to the presence of the extractable intercellular lipids, being different in the lipid-depleted sample as compared to native SC and lipid dispersion. The results contribute to the understanding of alkyl chain packing and mobility in the SC membranes, which are involved in the mechanisms that control the permeability of different compounds through skin, suggesting an important involvement of the envelope in the skin barrier.     

Ethanol effects on the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior.

The stratum corneum is considered to be the diffusional barrier of mammalian skin for water and most solutes. The intercellular lipid multilayer domains of the stratum corneum are believed to be the diffusional pathway for most lipophilic solutes. Fluidization of the lipid multilayers in the presence of ethanol is frequently conceived to result in enhanced permeation. Current investigations address the effect of ethanol on the phase behavior in terms of stratum corneum lipid alkyl chain packing, mobility and conformational order as measured by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Phospholipid multilamellar vesicles were also studied as model systems. There appeared to be no effect of ethanol on either the solid-solid phase transition or the gel phase interchain coupling of the stratum corneum lipids. However, there was a reduction in the mobility of the alkyl chains in the presence of ethanol. Possible mechanistic relationships between the current FTIR spectroscopic results with available literature data of ethanol induced lipophilic solute penetration enhancement through the skin are discussed.     

Role of lipids in the formation and maintenance of the cutaneous permeability barrier

The major function of the skin is to form a barrier between the internal milieu and the hostile external environment. A permeability barrier that prevents the loss of water and electrolytes is essential for life on land. The permeability barrier is mediated primarily by lipid enriched lamellar membranes that are localized to the extracellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lipid enriched membranes have a unique structure and contain approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids with very little phospholipid. Lamellar bodies, which are formed during the differentiation of keratinocytes, play a key role in delivering the lipids from the stratum granulosum cells into the extracellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Lamellar bodies contain predominantly glucosylceramides, phospholipids, and cholesterol and following the exocytosis of lamellar lipids into the extracellular space of the stratum corneum these precursor lipids are converted by beta glucocerebrosidase and phospholipases into the ceramides and fatty acids, which comprise the lamellar membranes. The lipids required for lamellar body formation are derived from de novo synthesis by keratinocytes and from extra-cutaneous sources. The lipid synthetic pathways and the regulation of these pathways are described in this review. In addition, the pathways for the uptake of extra-cutaneous lipids into keratinocytes are discussed. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 degrees C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 degrees C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations

The lipids of mammalian stratum corneum are known to be important regulators of skin permeability. Since the human stratum corneum displays remarkable regional variations in skin permeability, we assessed the total lipid concentration, the distribution of all major lipid species, and the fatty acid composition in Bligh-Dyer extracts from four skin sites (abdomen, leg, face, and sole) that are known to display widely disparate permeability. Statistically significant differences in lipid weight were found at the four sites that were inversely proportional to their known permeability. In all four sites, among the polar lipids, the stratum corneum contained negligible phospholipids, but substantially more cholesterol sulfate (1-7%) than previously appreciated. As in the stratum corneum from other mammals, the bulk of the lipids consisted of neutral (60-80%) and sphingolipids (15-35%). Of the neutral lipids, free sterols (4- to 5-times greater than esterified sterols), free fatty acids, triglycerides, and highly nonpolar species (n-alkanes and squalene) predominated. n-Alkanes, which were present in greater quantities than previously appreciated, comprised a homologous series of odd- and even-chained compounds ranging from C19 to C34. The sphingolipids comprised over 80% ceramides vs. lesser quantities of glycosphingolipids. In all four sites, the sphingolipids were the major repository of long-chain, saturated fatty acids. The neutral lipid:sphingolipid ratio generally was proportional to the known permeability of each site: higher neutral lipids and lower sphingolipids generally were associated with superior barrier properties. These studies provide: 1) the first detailed, quantitative analysis of human stratum corneum lipids and 2) information about the variability in lipid composition at four skin sites with known differences in permeability. The latter results suggest that variations in neutral lipids, rather than sphingolipids, may underlie local variations in skin permeability.     

Responding phospholipid membranes--interplay between hydration and permeability.

Osmotic forces are important in regulating a number of physiological membrane processes. The effect of osmotic pressure on lipid phase behavior is of utmost importance for the extracellular lipids in stratum corneum (the outer part of human skin), due to the large gradient in water chemical potential between the water-rich tissue on the inside, and the relative dry environment on the outside of the body. We present a theoretical model for molecular diffusional transport over an oriented stack of two-component lipid bilayers in the presence of a gradient in osmotic pressure. This gradient serves as the driving force for diffusional motion of water. It also causes a gradient in swelling and phase transformations, which profoundly affect the molecular environment and thus the local diffusion properties. This feedback mechanism generates a nonlinear transport behavior, which we illustrate by calculations of the flux of water and solute (nicotine) through the bilayer stack. The calculated water flux shows qualitative agreement with experimental findings for water flux through stratum corneum. We also present a physical basis for the occlusion effect. Phase behavior of binary phospholipid mixtures at varying osmotic pressures is modeled from the known interlamellar forces and the regular solution theory. A first-order phase transformation from a gel to a liquid--crystalline phase can be induced by an increase in the osmotic pressure. In the bilayer stack, a transition can be induced along the gradient. The boundary conditions in water chemical potential can thus act as a switch for the membrane permeability.     

Structure of lamellar lipid domains and corneocyte envelopes of murine stratum corneum. An X-ray diffraction study

The lipid of the outermost layer of the skin is confined largely to the extracellular spaces surrounding the corneocytes of the stratum corneum where it forms a multilamellar adhesive matrix to act as the major permeability barrier of the skin. Knowledge of the molecular architecture of these intercellular domains is important for understanding various skin pathologies and their treatment, percutaneous drug delivery, and the cosmetic maintenance of the skin. We have surveyed by X-ray diffraction the structure of the intercellular domains and the extracted lipids of murine stratum corneum (SC) at 25, 45, and 70 degrees C which are temperatures in the vicinity of known thermal phase transitions [Rehfeld, S. J., & Elias, P. M. (1982) J. Invest. Dermatol. 79, 1-3]. The intercellular domains produce lamellar diffraction patterns with a Bragg spacing of 131 +/- 2 A. Lipid extracted from the SC and dispersed in excess water does not produce a simple lamellar diffraction pattern at any temperature studied, however. This and other facts suggest that another component, probably a protein, must be present to control the architecture of the intercellular lipid domains. We have also obtained diffraction patterns attributable to the protein envelopes of the corneocytes. The patterns suggest a beta-pleated sheet organizational scheme. No diffraction patterns were observed that could be attributed to keratin.     

Avian epidermal differentiation: role of lipids in permeability barrier formation

Though avian skin is known to possess a highly lipogenic epidermis, little is known about its permeability barrier function. We correlated epidermal barrier function, fine structure and lipid biochemistry in the pigeon, Columbia livia, and compared these features with terrestrial mammalian systems. Whereas barrier function, as assessed by transepidermal water loss was not as efficient as in mammals, both groups shared certain morphological features including substantial compartmentalization of lipids in stratum corneum intercellular domains. Avian intercellular lipids derive from extrusion of intracellular non-membrane-bound droplets from lowermost corneocytes, rather than by secretion of lamellar discs from multigranular bodies, as previously reported in some avians, and in mammals. Instead, both the internal lamellae and the limiting membranes of multigranular bodies appear to degenerate, leading to the formation of non-membrane-bound droplets. The lipid content of avian epidermis and stratum corneum demonstrates important similarities to terrestrial mammals, i.e. abundant sphingolipids, a paucity of phospholipids, and abundant neutral lipids, but also certain striking differences, i.e. persistence of glycosphingolipids and triglycerides into the stratum corneum. Thus, avian stratum corneum forms a two-compartment system of lipid-depleted cells embedded in non-polar-lipid enriched intercellular domains, analogous to mammals. But, in contrast to mammals, the highly attenuated corneocytes of avians, which results from a paucity of keratin filaments, produce a 'straws-and-mortar' tissue, rather than the 'bricks-and-mortar' tissue of mammals.     

Study of human stratum corneum and extracted lipids by thermomicroscopy and DSC

A study on the thermal behavior of human stratum corneum and lipids is described. The use of high scanning rate DSC for both SC and extracted lipids allows the consistent determination of transition temperatures, including those of lower energy. Changes are found both at physiological and higher temperatures. There is a clear correspondence between the thermotropic behavior of these two systems. However, one of the transitions found in human SC (approximately 55 degrees C) is absent in extracted lipids and may be ascribed to those covalently-linked to corneocytes. Lipidic thermotropic behavior is clearly found above 100 degrees C, in which proteins do not play an exclusive role. Changes related to most transitions are observed directly by polarized light thermal microscopy in extracted lipids. This technique also allowed for the observation of large segregated domains in the extracted lipids. A drastic change is observed at approximately 60 degrees C, corresponding to the disruption of the lamellar structure.     

Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?

The lipid organization in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. SC lipids form two lamellar phases with a predominantly orthorhombic packing. In previous publications a lipid model was presented, referred to as the stratum corneum substitute (SCS), that closely mimics the SC lipid organization and barrier function. Therefore, the SCS serves as a unique tool to relate lipid organization with barrier function. In the present study we examined the effect of the orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition on the barrier function of human SC and SCS. In addition, the SCS was modified by changing the free fatty acid composition, resulting in a hexagonal packing and perturbed lamellar organization. By measuring the permeability to benzoic acid as function of temperature, Arrhenius plots were constructed from which activation energies were calculated. The results suggest that the change from orthorhombic to hexagonal packing in human SC and SCS, does not have an effect on the permeability. However, the modified SCS revealed an increased permeability to benzoic acid, which we related to its perturbed lamellar organization. Thus, a proper lamellar organization is more crucial for a competent barrier function than the presence of an orthorhombic lateral packing.