FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 °C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 °C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Infrared spectroscopy studies of mixtures prepared with synthetic ceramides varying in head group architecture: Coexistence of liquid and crystalline phases

The barrier function of the skin is provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) are present in SC and form highly ordered crystalline lipid lamellae. These lamellae are crucial for a proper skin barrier function. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to examine the lipid organization of mixtures prepared from synthetic CERs with CHOL and FFAs. The conformational ordering and lateral packing of these mixtures showed great similarities to the lipid organization in SC and lipid mixtures prepared with native CERs. Therefore, mixtures with synthetic CERs serve as an excellent tool for studying the effect of molecular architecture of CER subclasses on the lipid phase behavior. In SC the number of OH-groups in the head groups of CER subclasses varies. Furthermore, acylCERs with a linoleic acid chemically bound to a long acyl chain are also identified. The present study revealed that CER head group architecture affects the lateral packing and conformational ordering of the CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures. Furthermore, while the majority of the lipids form a crystalline packing, the linoleate moiety of the acylCERs participates in a “pseudo fluid” phase.     

The phase behaviour of skin lipid mixtures based on synthetic ceramides

The lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), form the main barrier for diffusion of molecules across the skin. The main lipid classes in SC are cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFA) and at least nine classes of ceramides (CER), referred to as CER1 to CER9. In the present study the phase behaviour of four synthetic CER, either single or mixed with CHOL or CHOL and FFA, has been studied using small and wide angle X-ray diffraction. The lipid mixtures showed complex phase behaviour with coexistence of several phases. The results further revealed that the presence of synthetic CER1 as well as a proper composition of the other CER in the mixture were crucial for the formation of a phase with a long periodicity, characteristic for SC lipid phase behaviour. Only a mixture containing synthetic CER1 and CER3, CHOL and FFA showed similar phase behaviour to that of SC.     

The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC) plays a fundamental role in the barrier function of the skin. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. The main lipid classes in the lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to examine the effect of the chain length of FFAs on the thermotropic phase behavior and mixing properties of SC lipids. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman imaging spectroscopy were used to study the mixing properties using either protonated or deuterated FFAs. We selected SC model lipid mixtures containing only a single CER, CHOL and either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs mimicking the FFA SC composition. The single CER consists of a sphingoid base with 18 carbon atoms and an acyl chain with a chain length of 24 carbon atoms. When using lignoceric acid (24 carbon atoms) or a mixture of FFAs, the CER and FFAs participated in mixed crystals, but hydration of the mixtures induced a slight phase separation between CER and FFA. The mixed crystalline structures did not phase separate during storage even up to a time period of 3 months. When using palmitic acid (16 carbon atoms), a slight phase separation was observed between FFA and CER. This phase separation was clearly enhanced during hydration and storage. In conclusion, the thermotropic phase behavior and the mixing properties of the SC lipid mixtures were shown to strongly depend on the chain length and chain length distribution of FFAs, while hydration enhanced the phase separation.     

Modelling the stratum corneum lipid organisation with synthetic lipid mixtures: the importance of synthetic ceramide composition

Cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFA) and nine classes of ceramides (CER1-CER9) form the main constituents of the intercellular lipid lamellae in stratum corneum (SC), which regulate the skin barrier function. Both the presence of a unique 13-nm lamellar phase, of which the formation depends on the presence of CER1, and its dense lateral packing are characteristic for the SC lipid organisation. The present study focuses on the lipid organisation in mixtures prepared with CHOL, FFA and a limited number of synthetic CER, namely CER1, CER3 and bovine brain CER type IV (SigmaCERIV). The main objective is to determine the optimal molar ratio of CER3 to SigmaCERIV for the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase. CER3 contains a uniform acyl chain length, whereas SigmaCERIV contains fatty acids with varying chain lengths. Using small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD), it is demonstrated that the CER3 to SigmaCERIV ratio affects the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase and that the optimal ratio depends on the presence of FFA. Furthermore, the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase is not very sensitive to variations in the total CER level, which is similar to the in vivo situation.     

Modelling the stratum corneum lipid organisation with synthetic lipid mixtures: the importance of synthetic ceramide composition

Cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFA) and nine classes of ceramides (CER1-CER9) form the main constituents of the intercellular lipid lamellae in stratum corneum (SC), which regulate the skin barrier function. Both the presence of a unique 13-nm lamellar phase, of which the formation depends on the presence of CER1, and its dense lateral packing are characteristic for the SC lipid organisation. The present study focuses on the lipid organisation in mixtures prepared with CHOL, FFA and a limited number of synthetic CER, namely CER1, CER3 and bovine brain CER type IV (∑CERIV). The main objective is to determine the optimal molar ratio of CER3 to ∑CERIV for the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase. CER3 contains a uniform acyl chain length, whereas ∑CERIV contains fatty acids with varying chain lengths. Using small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD), it is demonstrated that the CER3 to ∑CERIV ratio affects the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase and that the optimal ratio depends on the presence of FFA. Furthermore, the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase is not very sensitive to variations in the total CER level, which is similar to the in vivo situation.     

The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier.

The lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum (SC) play a key role in the barrier function of the skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). In pig SC at least six subclasses of ceramides (referred to as CER 1, 2-6) are present. Recently it was shown that in mixtures of isolated pig SC ceramides (referred to as CER(1-6)) and CHOL two lamellar phases are formed, which mimic SC lipid organisation very closely [J.A. Bouwstra et al., 1996, J. Lipid Res. 37, 999-1011] [1]. Since the CER composition in SC originating from different sources/donors often varies, information on the effect of variations in CER composition on the SC lipid organisation is important. The results of the present study with mixtures of CHOL including two different CER mixtures that lack CER 6 (CER(1-5) mixtures) revealed that at an equimolar molar ratio their lipid organisation was similar to that of the equimolar CHOL:CER(1-6) and CHOL:CER(1,2) mixtures, described previously. These observations suggest that at an equimolar CHOL:CER ratio the lipid organisation is remarkably insensitive toward a change in the CER composition. Similar observations have been made with equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures. The situation is different when the CHOL:CER molar ratio varies. While in the CHOL:CER(1-6) mixture the lamellar organisation hardly changed with varying molar ratio from 0.4 to 2, the lamellar organisation in the CHOL:CER(1-5) mixtures appeared to be more sensitive to a change in the relative CHOL content, especially concerning the changes in the periodicities of the lamellar phases. In summary, these findings clearly indicate that at an equimolar CHOL:CER molar ratio the lamellar organisation is least sensitive to a variation in CER composition, while at a reduced CHOL:CER molar ratio the CER composition plays a more prominent role in the lamellar phases. This observation may have an implication for the in vivo situation when both the CER composition and the CHOL:CER molar ratio change simultaneously.     

Phase behavior of lipid mixtures based on human ceramides: coexistence of crystalline and liquid phases.

The lipid regions in the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum) form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. In this layer the main lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol (CHOL), and FFA. Previous studies revealed a coexistence of two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 13 nm (referred to as long periodicity phase) and 6 nm (short periodicity phase). Additional studies showed that lipid mixtures prepared with isolated pig ceramides (pigCER) mimic lipid phase behavior in stratum corneum closely. Because the molecular structure of pigCER differs in some important aspects from that of human ceramides (HCER), in the present study the phase behavior of mixtures prepared with HCER has been examined. Phase behavior studies of mixtures based on HCER revealed that in CHOL:HCER mixtures the long periodicity phase dominates. In the absence of HCER1 the short periodicity phase is dominant. Addition of FFA promotes the formation of the short periodicity phase and induces a transition from a hexagonal sublattice to an orthorhombic sublattice. Furthermore, the presence of FFA promotes the formation of a liquid phase. Finally, cholesterol sulfate, a minor but important lipid in the stratum corneum, reduces the amount of cholesterol that phase separates in crystalline domains. From these observations it can be concluded that the phase behavior of mixtures prepared from HCER differs in some important aspects from that prepared from pigCER. The most prevalent differences are the following: i) the addition of FFA promotes the formation of the short periodicity phase; and ii) liquid lateral packing is obviously present in CHOL:HCER:FFA mixtures. These changes in phase behavior might be due to a larger amount of linoleic acid moiety in HCER mixtures compared with that in pigCER mixtures.     

Arrangement of ceramide [EOS] in a stratum corneum lipid model matrix: new aspects revealed by neutron diffraction studies

The lipid matrix in stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in the barrier function of the mammalian skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). Especially the unique-structured omega-acylceramide CER[EOS] is regarded to be essential for skin barrier properties by inducing the formation of a long-periodicity phase of 130 angstroms (LPP). In the present study, the arrangement of CER[EOS], either mixed with CER[AP] and CHOL or with CER[AP], CHOL and palmitic acid (PA), inside a SC lipid model membrane has been studied for the first time by neutron diffraction. For a mixed CER[EOS]/CER[AP]/CHOL membrane in a partly dehydrated state, the internal membrane nanostructure, i.e. the neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface, was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The membrane repeat distance is equal to that of the formerly used SC lipid model system composed of CER[AP]/CHOL/PA/ChS. By comparing both the neutron scattering length density profiles, a possible arrangement of synthetic long-chain CER[EOS] molecules inside a SC lipid model matrix is suggested. The analysis of the internal membrane nanostructure implies that one CER[EOS] molecule penetrates from one membrane layer into an adjacent layer. A 130 angstroms periodicity phase could not be observed under experimental conditions, either in CER/CHOL mixtures or in CER/CHOL/FFA mixture. CER[EOS] can be arranged inside a phase with a repeat unit of 45.2 angstroms which is predominately formed by short-chain CER[AP] with distinct polarity.     

Cholesterol sulfate and calcium affect stratum corneum lipid organization over a wide temperature range

The main diffusion barrier for drugs penetrating through the skin is located in the intercellular lipid matrix in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). The main lipid classes in the SC are ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). The lipids in SC are organized into two lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 13 and 6 nm, respectively. Similar lipid organization has been found with equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures in SAXD studies performed at room temperature. However, one may conclude that the phase behavior of the mixtures is similar to that in SC only when the lipid organization of the lipid mixtures resembles that in SC over a wide temperature range. Therefore, in the present study, the organization of the lipid mixtures has been studied in a temperature range between 20 degrees and 95 degrees C. From these experiments it appeared that at elevated temperatures in equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures a new prominent 4.3 nm phase is formed between 35;-55 degrees C, which is absent or only weakly formed in intact human and pig SC, respectively. As it has been suggested that gradients of pH and cholesterol sulfate exist in the SC and that Ca(2+) is present only in the lowest SC layers, the effect of pH, cholesterol sulfate, and Ca(2+) on the lipid phase behavior has been investigated with lipid mixtures. Both an increase in pH from 5 (pH at the skin surface) to 7.4 (pH at the SC;-stratum granulosum interface) and the presence of cholesterol sulfate promote the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase. Furthermore, cholesterol sulfate reduces the amount of CHOL that is present in crystalline domains, causes a shift in the formation of the 4.3 nm phase to higher temperatures, and makes this phase less prominent at higher temperatures. The finding that Ca(2+) counteracts the effects of cholesterol sulfate indicates the importance of a proper balance of minor SC components for appropriate SC lipid organization. In addition, when the findings are extrapolated to the in vivo situation, it seems that cholesterol sulfate is required to dissolve cholesterol in the lamellar phases and to stabilize SC lipid organization. Therefore, a drop in cholesterol sulfate content in the superficial layers of the SC is expected to destabilize the lipid lamellar phases, which might facilitate the desquamation process.     

Effect of the ω-acylceramides on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes evaluated by X-ray diffraction and FTIR studies (Part I)

The lipid organization in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is important for the skin barrier function. The stratum corneum lipids are composed of ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). In the present study Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) techniques were utilized to evaluate the effect of three C18 fatty acid esterified ω-acylceramides (CER EOS) on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes. FTIR spectra (scissoring and rocking bands) showed as a function of temperature significant line-shape changes for both components assigned to the orthorhombic phase. Second-derivative analyzes revealed a significant decrease in the interchain coupling strength (Δν values) for the samples formed by CER EOS with the linoleate (CER EOS-L) and oleate (CER EOS-O) moiety around 28.5 °C. However, only a gradual decrease in the Δν values was noticed for the mixture formed with CER EOS with the stearate moiety (CER EOS-S) over the whole temperature range. In the absence of CER EOS the decrease started already at 25.5 °C, demonstrating that CER EOS stabilized the orthorhombic lattice. This stabilization was most pronounced for the CER EOS-S. Spectral fittings allowed to evaluate the orientation changes of the skeletal plane within the orthorhombic unit cell (θ values) for a given temperature range. From the best-fit parameters (peak area values), a decrease in the orthorhombic phase contribution to the scissoring band was also monitored as a function of the temperature. SAXS studies showed the coexistence of two lamellar phases with a periodicity of ∼5.5 nm (short periodicity phase, SPP) and ∼12 nm (LPP) in the presence of the CER EOS-L and CER EOS-O. However, no diffraction peaks associated to the LPP were detected for CER EOS-S. While CER EOS-S most efficiently stabilized the orthorhombic phase, CER EOS-L and CER EOS-O promoted the presence of the LPP. Therefore, the presence of all three CER EOS as observed in human stratum corneum may contribute to a proper skin barrier function.     

Localisation of partially deuterated cholesterol in quaternary SC lipid model membranes: a neutron diffraction study

This letter presents our first results in using the benefit of selective deuteration in neutron diffraction studies on stratum corneum (SC) lipid model systems. The SC represents the outermost layer of the mammalian skin and exhibits the main skin barrier. It is essential for studying drug penetration through the SC to know the internal structure and hydration behaviour on the molecular level. The SC intercellular matrix is mainly formed by ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and long- chain free fatty acids (FFA). Among them, CHOL is the most abundant individual lipid, but a detailed knowledge about its localisation in the SC lipid matrix is still lacking. The structure of the quaternary SC lipid model membranes composed of either CER[AP]/CHOL-D6/palmitic acid (PA)/cholesterol sulphate (ChS) or CER[AP]/CHOL-D7/PA/ChS is characterized by neutron diffraction. Neutron diffraction patterns from the oriented samples are collected at the V1 diffractometer of the Hahn-Meitner-Institute, Berlin, measured at 32°C, 60% humidity and at different D₂O contents. The neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface is restored by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The analysis of scattering length density profile is a suitable tool for investigating the internal structure of the SC lipid model membranes. The major finding is the experimental proof of the CHOL localisation in SC model membrane by deuterium labelling at prominent positions in the CHOL molecules.     

Infrared spectroscopic study of stratum corneum model membranes prepared from human ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid domains. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are cholesterol, ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids forming two crystalline lamellar phases. However, only limited information is available on whether the various lipid classes participate in the same crystalline lattices or if separate domains are formed within the lipid lamellae. In this article infrared spectroscopic studies are reported of hydrated mixtures prepared from cholesterol, human CER, and free fatty acids. Evaluation of the methylene stretching vibrations revealed a conformational disordering starting at approximately 60 degrees C for all mixtures. Examination of the rotational ordering (scissoring and rocking vibrations) of mixtures prepared from equimolar cholesterol and CER with a variation in the level of free fatty acids showed that at lower free fatty acid content orthorhombic and hexagonal domains coexist in the lipid lamellae. Increasing the fatty acid level to an equimolar cholesterol/CER/fatty acid mixture reveals the dominant presence of an orthorhombic lattice, confirming x-ray diffraction studies. Replacing the protonated free fatty acid chains by their perdeuterated counterparts demonstrates that free fatty acids and CER participate in the same orthorhombic lattice up to a level of slightly less than 1:1:0.75 cholesterol/CER/free fatty acids molar ratio but that free fatty acids also form separate domains within the lipid lamellae at equimolar ratios at room temperature. However, no evidence for this has been observed at 32 degrees C. Extrapolating these findings to the situation in stratum corneum led us conclude that in stratum corneum, fatty acids and CER participate in the orthorhombic lattice at 32 degrees C, the skin temperature.     

Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?

The lipid organization in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. SC lipids form two lamellar phases with a predominantly orthorhombic packing. In previous publications a lipid model was presented, referred to as the stratum corneum substitute (SCS), that closely mimics the SC lipid organization and barrier function. Therefore, the SCS serves as a unique tool to relate lipid organization with barrier function. In the present study we examined the effect of the orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition on the barrier function of human SC and SCS. In addition, the SCS was modified by changing the free fatty acid composition, resulting in a hexagonal packing and perturbed lamellar organization. By measuring the permeability to benzoic acid as function of temperature, Arrhenius plots were constructed from which activation energies were calculated. The results suggest that the change from orthorhombic to hexagonal packing in human SC and SCS, does not have an effect on the permeability. However, the modified SCS revealed an increased permeability to benzoic acid, which we related to its perturbed lamellar organization. Thus, a proper lamellar organization is more crucial for a competent barrier function than the presence of an orthorhombic lateral packing.     

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.     

The role of ceramide chain length distribution on the barrier properties of the skin lipid membranes

The skin barrier function is provided by the stratum corneum (SC). The lipids in the SC are composed of three lipid classes: ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) which form two crystalline lamellar structures. In the present study, we investigate the effect of CER chain length distribution on the barrier properties of model lipid membranes mimicking the lipid composition and organization of SC. The membranes were prepared with either isolated pig CERs (PCERs) or synthetic CERs. While PCERs have a wide chain length distribution, the synthetic CERs are quite uniform in chain length. The barrier properties were examined by means of permeation studies using hydrocortisone as a model drug. Our studies revealed a reduced barrier in lipid membranes prepared with PCERs compared to synthetic CERs. Additional studies revealed that a wider chain length distribution of PCERs results in an enhanced hexagonal packing and increased conformational disordering of the lipid tails compared to synthetic CERs, while the lamellar phases did not change. This demonstrates that the chain length distribution affects the lipid barrier by reducing the lipid ordering and density within the lipid lamellae. In subsequent studies, the effect of increased levels of FFAs or CERs with a long acyl chain in the PCERs membranes was also studied. These changes in lipid composition enhanced the level of orthorhombic packing, reduced the conformational disordering and increased the barrier of the lipid membranes. In conclusion, the CER chain length distribution is an important key factor for maintaining a proper barrier.     

Coexistence of two domains in intercellular lipid matrix of stratum corneum

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is composed of corneocytes and an intercellular lipid matrix. The matrix acts as both the main barrier and also as the pathway of water, drugs, etc. across the SC. In the mammalian SC, the longitudinal arrangement of the lipid molecules, consisting of long and short lamellar structures with repeat distances of about 13 nm and 6 nm, respectively, has been observed by small-angle X-ray diffraction. In the lateral arrangement of the lipid molecules, hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing has been observed by wide-angle X-ray diffraction. From the systematic study of the temperature dependence of simultaneous small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction patterns, we demonstrate that the intercellular lipid matrix forms two domains, which consist at room temperature of a long lamellar structure with hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing and a short lamellar structure with orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing.     

Coexistence of two domains in intercellular lipid matrix of stratum corneum

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is composed of corneocytes and an intercellular lipid matrix. The matrix acts as both the main barrier and also as the pathway of water, drugs, etc. across the SC. In the mammalian SC, the longitudinal arrangement of the lipid molecules, consisting of long and short lamellar structures with repeat distances of about 13 nm and 6 nm, respectively, has been observed by small-angle X-ray diffraction. In the lateral arrangement of the lipid molecules, hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing has been observed by wide-angle X-ray diffraction. From the systematic study of the temperature dependence of simultaneous small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction patterns, we demonstrate that the intercellular lipid matrix forms two domains, which consist at room temperature of a long lamellar structure with hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing and a short lamellar structure with orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing.