Biosurfactants in cosmetic formulations: trends and challenges

Cosmetic products play an essential role in everyone’s life. People everyday use a large variety of cosmetic products such as soap, shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, skin care, perfume, make-up, among others. The cosmetic industry encompasses several environmental, social and economic impacts that are being addressed through the search for more efficient manufacturing techniques, the reduction of waste and emissions and the promotion of personal hygiene, contributing to an improvement of public health and at the same time providing employment opportunities. The current trend among consumers is the pursuit for natural ingredients in cosmetic products, as many of these products exhibit equal, better or additional benefits in comparison with the chemical-based products. In this sense, biosurfactants are natural compounds with great potential in the formulation of cosmetic products given by their biodegradability and impact in health. Indeed, many of these biosurfactants could exhibit a “prebiotic” character. This review covers the current state-of-the-art of biosurfactant research for cosmetic purposes and further discusses the future challenges for cosmetic applications.     

HEPARIN IN ACUTE MYOCARDIAL INFARCTION—Observations Indicating the Potential Advantages of Using It as the Sole Anticoagulant in Therapy

There is a considerable body of experimental evidence that heparin is superior as an anticoagulant to any prothrombin depressing drugs. Furthermore its lipemia-clearing action affords other benefits which result from the removal of fat from the bloodstream. Important among these beneficial effects is the increased tissue and myocardial oxygen consumption which results from the injection of heparin in atherosclerotic patients.Because of these advantages of heparin over oral anticoagulants, the use of heparin as the sole anticoagulant for three weeks in patients with severe acute myocardial infarction was evaluated as opposed to the customary therapy where heparin is given for several days and then oral anticoagulants are used. The mortality in the dicoumarin treated group was 38 per cent, as compared with 28 per cent in the patients who received only heparin for three weeks.     

CARCINOMA OF THE EYELID TREATED BY IRRADIATION—Analysis of 157 Primary and 22 Recurrent Cases

The eyelid is a frequent site for skin cancers of the face. Its location presents certain special problems in treatment from a cosmetic and functional standpoint. If untreated, a major deformity with possible loss of sight can result. This paper is a report of our treatment with irradiation of 157 primary tumors and 22 recurrent tumors. In 98 per cent of patients there was control of the tumor for more than five years and a good cosmetic and functional result.     

Physicians' Use of Relative Value Studies,Report of Bureau of Research and Planning

Data tabulated from the Study of the Characteristics of Physicians in California, conducted by the C.M.A. Bureau of Research and Planning, show that over 70 per cent of all physicians in active private practice utilize the Relative Value Studies, with over 41 per cent stating that they use it “all or most of the time.” Use figures range from almost 78 per cent of physicians who participate in some form of prepayment program to under 53 per cent of physicians who do not participate in any such program.Eighty per cent of all physicians in private practice who use the RVS expressed general satisfaction, with 11.8 per cent dissatisfied and 8.2 per cent stating no opinion as to their satisfaction. Of the 80 per cent who expressed satisfaction, two out of three use the RVS all or most of the time.     

Voluntary Health Insurance Coverage in California, 1961: A Report of the Bureau of Research and Planning, California Medical Association

Almost 7 out of every 10 of the estimated population of 16.2 million persons in California, were covered under some form of voluntary health insurance at the end of 1961. The forms of protection included hospital, surgical, regular medical and major medical expense benefits. The per cent of the civilian population of California covered for surgical benefits was slightly over 66 per cent, while 56 per cent were covered for regular medical expense benefits. Comparable percentages for the United States are approximately 74 per cent (hospital), 69 per cent (surgical), and 51 per cent (regular medical). While the percentage of the State's population covered for hospital and surgical expenses is below that for the United States, it is higher for regular medical expense benefits. The rate of increase in coverage for the different forms of health care protection in California exceeded the rate of population growth during the one-year period ending 1961. The foregoing summary and the information in the accompanying text, does not reflect the total number of persons in California who receive or are eligible for health care services. A large variety of government financed programs on local, state and federal levels either finance or provide such services to an estimated 40 to 50 per cent of the California population, which does not have voluntary health insurance coverage. No current data are available regarding the number of persons who do not desire voluntary health insurance coverage for a variety of personal or financial reasons.     

Upper eyelid skin grafting: an effective treatment for lagophthalmos following blepharoplasty

Patients who have undergone upper blepharoplasty occasionally develop anterior lamellar insufficiency, which can result in lagophthalmos, corneal decompensation, and even blindness. Historically, skin grafts in the upper eyelid have been considered a last-resort procedure because of poor cosmetic outcomes. Poor cosmetic outcomes result from the traditional practice of placing the skin graft above the eyelid crease. This article describes a surgical technique for upper eyelid skin grafting in which the graft is placed in a supraciliary position. Presented are results of a retrospective study of 20 patients (31 eyelids) who underwent supraciliary upper eyelid skin grafting. The postoperative results were evaluated by examining the improvement in lagophthalmos, the improvement of keratopathy and comfort of the patient, and the cosmetic appearance of the graft. Upper eyelid skin grafting using this surgical technique is an effective and cosmetically acceptable method to improve corneal integrity and comfort in patients who have corneal exposure from insufficient anterior lamella after upper eyelid or eyebrow surgery.     

EARLY DIAGNOSIS OF MALIGNANT MELANOMA OF THE SKIN

About five per cent of all malignant lesions of the skin are malignant melanomas. The poor prognosis associated with this malignant lesion emphasizes the importance of early diagnosis. A large proportion of malignant melanomas arise in preexisting lesions such as junction nevi, precancerous melanoses and, much more rarely, blue nevi. Early malignant changes in these precursor lesions include increasing pigmentation, enlargement, thickening, crusting, bleeding, ulceration, tumor formation, and development of satellite lesions.Many pigmented, and some non-pigmented, lesions of the skin must be differentiated from malignant melanoma. Since even with radical surgical treatment the prognosis of malignant melanoma is poor, junction nevi which are subject to continual trauma or have signs of probable malignant degeneration should be prophylactically excised.     

The Present-Day Usage of Pneumothorax in the Treatment of Pulmonary Tuberculosis

The patient with tuberculosis must heal himself. Collapse measures help in the healing process by making the environment of the tubercle bacilli in the lungs more intolerant of multiplication and spread. The usage of pneumothorax has decreased; ten years ago it was used for over 50 per cent of patients, now for less than 10 per cent. This reduction in usage is not a condemnation of the procedure but an index of the more judicious application of the treatment as adjuvant to other accepted forms of therapy. Pneumothorax, because it is so versatile and flexible, lends itself most effectively to combination with other collapse procedures. Its use for well selected purposes is still indicated, but in much more narrow limits than previously applied.     

Results of irradiation in cancer of the lip,tongue and ear

CANCER OF THE LIP: The primary lesion can be controlled by irradiation in approximately 80 per cent of cases. For lesions with metastases there is only about a 25 per cent chance of five-year arrest (irradiation of the primary lesion followed by excision of involved nodes). CANCER OF THE TONGUE: Lesions in the anterior two-thirds are controllable by irradiation in about 50 per cent of cases if the nodes are not involved; the salvage is only about 15 per cent if the nodes are involved (nodes treated surgically). Lesions in the posterior third of the tongue are seldom controlled in the author's experience. CANCER OF THE EAR (AURICLE): Five-year arrest of basal-cell lesions should be attained by irradiation in about 80 per cent of cases; of squamous-cell lesions in about 60 per cent. If the lesion is extensive, radiation does not offer a superior cosmetic result to operation and entails danger of late chondronecrosis. Therefore extensive lesions are probably best treated surgically. In either event, it appears probable that results of irradiation can be improved by the use of more adequate fields and greater fractionation.     

RESULTS OF IRRADIATION IN CANCER OF THE LIP,TONGUE AND EAR

Cancer of the lip: The primary lesion can be controlled by irradiation in approximately 80 per cent of cases. For lesions with metastases there is only about a 25 per cent chance of five-year arrest (irradiation of the primary lesion followed by excision of involved nodes).Cancer of the tongue: Lesions in the anterior two-thirds are controllable by irradiation in about 50 per cent of cases if the nodes are not involved; the salvage is only about 15 per cent if the nodes are involved (nodes treated surgically). Lesions in the posterior third of the tongue are seldom controlled in the author''s experience.Cancer of the ear (auricle): Five-year arrest of basal-cell lesions should be attained by irradiation in about 80 per cent of cases; of squamous-cell lesions in about 60 per cent. If the lesion is extensive, radiation does not offer a superior cosmetic result to operation and entails danger of late chondronecrosis. Therefore extensive lesions are probably best treated surgically. In either event, it appears probable that results of irradiation can be improved by the use of more adequate fields and greater fractionation.     

Clobetasol propionate solid lipid nanoparticles cream for effective treatment of eczema: formulation and clinical implications

In the present study clobetasol propionate (Cp) was loaded as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN), incorporated it in suitable cream base and evaluated in vitro and its performance clinically against equivalent marketed formulation. Cp was incorporated into SLN by high-pressure homogenization technique and characterized for mean particle size, surface morphology and per cent drug entrapment. Drug permeation and skin uptake studies from Cp creams were carried out in a validated Franz static diffusion cell across human cadaver skin (HCS). Sixteen chronic eczema patients were enrolled in a controlled double blind clinical trial. Optimized Cp-SLN was smooth and spherical under scanning electron microscopy; with average particle size of 177 nm and per cent drug entrapment of 92.05%. In vitro permeation studies revealed lower mean flux value and higher skin uptake of Cp from Cp-SLN cream compared to marketed drug cream. Both formulations were found to be responsive to manifestations of chronic eczema, while Cp-SLN cream prepared in this investigation registered significant improvement in therapeutic response (1.9 fold; inflammation, 1.2 fold; itching) in terms of per cent reduction in degree of inflammation and itching against marketed cream. Further clinical trials are required to ascertain the efficiency of the present formulation.     

CIRRHOSIS OF THE LIVER—Clinical Course in 2,377 Patients at San Francisco General Hospital

The records of 2,377 patients with Laennec''s cirrhosis were reviewed for the period 1947-1957. The chief presenting symptom was ascites in 46 per cent, bleeding in 23 per cent, coma in 18 per cent, jaundice in 9 per cent, and both jaundice and ascites in 4 per cent. Nearly half of the patients died during the period under study—one-third from hepatic failure, one-third from gastrointestinal bleeding, and one-third from other causes, most of which were related to alcoholism.Massive gastrointestinal bleeding occurred in 21 per cent of the patients at some time in their clinical course, and in the 10 per cent of these in whom ulcer was demonstrated, one-fifth died as a result of the hemorrhage. Of those presumed to be bleeding from esophageal varices, 64 per cent died at the first hemorrhage and 10 per cent at subsequent hemorrhages; 85 per cent of all those who bled from varices were dead at the end of one year, and 91 per cent were dead at the end of three years.The survival curve of a group of patients who bled once and were good operative risks but had received no operative treatment was compared to the survival curve for entire group who survived the first hemorrhage. The three-year survival in the good risk group was 47 per cent; for the group as a whole it was 30 per cent. The difference in mortality rate was primarily due to an increased number of deaths from hepatic failure in the combined group, whereas 60 per cent of the good risk group died of recurrent gastrointestinal hemorrhage.As 86 per cent of those who were to die of gastrointestinal bleeding did so at the first hemorrhage, it was concluded that any decided improvement in the salvage rate achievable by operation must come from some means of diagnostic forecast of the likelihood of bleeding, with resort to prophylactic operation in such cases.     

Dynamic arm swinging in human walking

Humans tend to swing their arms when they walk, a curious behaviour since the arms play no obvious role in bipedal gait. It might be costly to use muscles to swing the arms, and it is unclear whether potential benefits elsewhere in the body would justify such costs. To examine these costs and benefits, we developed a passive dynamic walking model with free-swinging arms. Even with no torques driving the arms or legs, the model produced walking gaits with arm swinging similar to humans. Passive gaits with arm phasing opposite to normal were also found, but these induced a much greater reaction moment from the ground, which could require muscular effort in humans. We therefore hypothesized that the reduction of this moment may explain the physiological benefit of arm swinging. Experimental measurements of humans (n = 10) showed that normal arm swinging required minimal shoulder torque, while volitionally holding the arms still required 12 per cent more metabolic energy. Among measures of gait mechanics, vertical ground reaction moment was most affected by arm swinging and increased by 63 per cent without it. Walking with opposite-to-normal arm phasing required minimal shoulder effort but magnified the ground reaction moment, causing metabolic rate to increase by 26 per cent. Passive dynamics appear to make arm swinging easy, while indirect benefits from reduced vertical moments make it worthwhile overall.     

THE DISTRIBUTION OF COCCIDIOIDOMYCOSIS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

In coccidioidin skin test surveys among persons of high school age in Saugus, Canoga Park, Banning and Palm Springs areas the average incidence of positive reaction was 15 per cent. Although considerably less than the 68 per cent incidence reported among high school students of Kern County, it is high enough to indicate pockets of relatively high endemicity in Southern California below the San Joaquin Valley.Histoplasmin tests were performed on most of the persons tested with coccidioidin in this survey. The over-all incidence of positive reaction in the group was 7.6 per cent. Most of the subjects with positive reaction to histoplasmin gave a history of having previously lived in some area in the central United States where histoplasmosis is known to be endemic.A few subjects who had positive reaction to coccidioidin tests and who had lived in areas known to be endemic for coccidioidomycosis but not for histoplasmosis, also had positive reaction to histoplasmin. However, the induration produced was always smaller than that caused by the coccidioidin reaction, and there was minimal confusion in interpreting the tests.     

Ethnobotany,leaf anatomy,essential oil composition and antibacterial activity of Pteronia onobromoides (Asteraceae)

Available ethnobotanical information on Pteronia onobromoides (first recorded in 1685) indicates that the plant was once of considerable cultural and commercial importance and that it was powdered, mixed with fat, and applied to the skin for cosmetic and/or medicinal purposes. Sâb, as well as Son or San, are considered to be the original Nama names for this aromatic bush and also the origin of various names for San people, such as Sonqua and Bushman. A study of the leaf anatomy showed that essential oil is produced in globose oil glands situated below some of the vascular bundles in the spongy parenchyma, adjacent to the palisade parenchyma. The oil is relatively complex but contains a combination of myrcene, limonene, 1,8-cineole and p-cymene as main compounds, with smaller amounts of sabinene, trans-linalooloxide, linalool, terpinen-4-ol, α-terpineol, eugenol, thymol and α-phellandrene. Dichloromethane extracts exhibited antibacterial activity (especially against Staphylococcus epidermidis) with MIC values as low as 0.83 mg/ml. Other solvent extracts and the essential oil itself were less active. The results show that the traditional method of mixing powdered leaves with fat and applying it to the skin may have had deodorant, disinfectant and medicinal benefits.     

Disability under social security; medical evaluation and decision as to rehabilitation

Recent amendments to the Social Security Act give privileges to persons who are found to be disabled. In California, the State Bureau of Vocational Rehabilitation has responsibility for determining whether or not an applicant is disabled within the meaning of the Act. Each applicant must submit medical evidence provided by his own physician or by a hospital. The evidence is reviewed by both a physician and a counselor, who determine not only whether disability exists but also whether rehabilitation services might be helpful. In the first 9,000 cases in which determinations were made, 49 per cent of applicants were found to be disabled and 51 per cent not; but in recent months the proportion found disabled has increased. Diseases of the circulatory system and nervous system, including late effects of cerebrovascular accidents, were the largest groups of conditions causing disability. Psychoneurotic conditions and orthopedic and respiratory disorders were next in order. Some 10 to 15 per cent of applicants were referred for rehabilitation services, but of these only about one in six is accepted for rehabilitation, and only half of those accepted actually receive the services. Thus, it appears that only one per cent of workers applying for disability benefits are getting the services made available through state and federal sources to restore them to productive employment. Physicians need to be alert to opportunities provided in programs such as these to utilize all facilities to round out the full cycle of medical care.     

DISABILITY UNDER SOCIAL SECURITY—Medical Evaluation and Decision as to Rehabilitation

Recent amendments to the Social Security Act give privileges to persons who are found to be disabled. In California, the State Bureau of Vocational Rehabilitation has responsibility for determining whether or not an applicant is disabled within the meaning of the Act. Each applicant must submit medical evidence provided by his own physician or by a hospital. The evidence is reviewed by both a physician and a counselor, who determine not only whether disability exists but also whether rehabilitation services might be helpful.In the first 9,000 cases in which determinations were made, 49 per cent of applicants were found to be disabled and 51 per cent not; but in recent months the proportion found disabled has increased. Diseases of the circulatory system and nervous system, including late effects of cerebrovascular accidents, were the largest groups of conditions causing disability. Psychoneurotic conditions and orthopedic and respiratory disorders were next in order.Some 10 to 15 per cent of applicants were referred for rehabilitation services, but of these only about one in six is accepted for rehabilitation, and only half of those accepted actually receive the services. Thus, it appears that only one per cent of workers applying for disability benefits are getting the services made available through state and federal sources to restore them to productive employment. Physicians need to be alert to opportunities provided in programs such as these to utilize all facilities to round out the full cycle of medical care.     

REACTIONS TO INSECT ALLERGENS—The Incidence of Response to Testing Among Allergic and Nonallergic Persons

Positive reactions to skin tests with extracts of various insects were found to be significantly higher in 200 patients with allergic disease than in 150 nonallergic controls.Forty-seven per cent of the allergic group had positive reaction to bee, 46 per cent to house fly, 39.5 per cent to moth, 29.5 to ant and 28.5 to aphid. Ant and house fly extract caused the greatest number of severe reactions (4+), with moth second and bee third.Because extracts of nonstinging insects caused reaction almost as often and as strong as stinging insects, it may be inferred that sensitization is due to inhaled insect particles. There appeared to be no necessary connection between a history of having been stung and a strong skin test reaction to bee protein.Testing for insect sensitivity appears a good way to get diagnostic information that can enhance the effectiveness of treatment.     

The costs and benefits of screening for congenital hypothyroidism in Wisconsin

Abstract

A comprehensive benefit‐cost analysis of the screening program to detect newborns with congenital hypothyroidism in Wisconsin is presented. Congenital hypothyroidism, if left undetected and untreated at an early age, can have serious irreversible effects on the growth and development of the brain. The monetary costs of the detection and treatment program for congenital hypothyroidism were compared with the projected benefits (avoided costs) that result from the prevention of the mental retardation associated with the disorder. Future costs and benefits were determined using a 4 per cent, 7 per cent, and 10 per cent rate of discount. Net benefits (benefits minus costs) for detecting and treating one individual with congenital hypothyroidism were approximately $98,200 ($141,700 ‐ $43,500) using the 7 per cent rate of discount. Net benefits for detecting the 13 individuals with congenital hypothyroidism in 1981–1982 totaled $1,277,000.     

Enhanced transdermal delivery of a dipeptide by dermaportation

Poor skin permeability and stability limits the application of peptides to the skin. Enhanced skin permeation could offer new therapies for a range of dermatological and cosmetic applications. The aim of this study was to investigate the application of a novel magnetic field enhancement technology to peptide delivery across the skin. Ala-Trp was used as a model dipeptide. Stability of the dipeptide in a range of conditions and with exposure to skin was determined. Dermaportation-magnetic field technology increased the in vitro permeability coefficient of Ala-Trp across human epidermis from 7.7 x 10(-4) cm/h with passive diffusion to 1.94 x 10(-2) cm/h with Dermaportation. Ala-Trp was unstable with exposure to human epidermis. Following permeation across the epidermis, a degradation product was detected in the receptor solution with the amount increasing up to 6 h. Given the susceptibility of peptides to degradation in the skin it is essential that they are delivered rapidly across the skin in order to maximize the opportunity for delivery of the native peptide. Dermaportation offers a potential new delivery method for skin delivery of peptides for a range of dermatological and cosmetic applications.