A review on applications of liposomes in textile processing

This review discusses the properties of liposomes and their role in the textile process, including textile preparation and dyeing. Liposomes have a surface activity effect due to a hydrophilic head group and hydrophobic hydrocarbon tail. Its preparations do not tend to foam, which advantageously distinguishes them from other textile auxiliaries. According to the carrier role of liposomes, they can be used in several textile processes such as textile finishing and dyeing with several types of dyes and fibers. Each application is discussed in this review paper. Several types of dyes are encapsulated by liposomes in the dyeing process and their presence indicates that they have retardant and leveling effects according to their gradual release of dyes. In addition, the presence of liposomes in the textile process can improve the mechanical properties of textile products, resulting in better wash fastness properties and leveling effect and handle properties. The best character of liposomes is a reduction in temperature of process resulting to save energy and they are environment degradable materials.     

Chitosan‐templated bio‐coloration of cotton fabrics via laccase‐catalyzed polymerization of hydroquinone

There is an increasing interest in the development of enzymatic coloration of textile fabrics as an alternative to conventional textile dyeing processes, which is successful for dyeing protein fibers. However, unmodified cotton fabrics are difficult to be dyed through enzyme catalysis due to the lack of affinity of biosynthesized dyes to cotton fibers. In order to improve the enzyme‐catalyzed dyeability of cotton fibers, chitosan was used to coat cotton fabrics as template. A novel and facile bio‐coloration technique using laccase catalysis of hydroquinone was developed to dye chitosan‐templated cotton fabrics. The polymerization of hydroquinone with the template of chitosan under the laccase catalysis was monitored by ultraviolet‐vis spectrophotometer on the absorbance of reaction solution. A significant peak of UV‐vis spectrum at 246 nm corresponding to large conjugated structures appeared and increased with increasing the duration of enzymatic catalysis. The effect of different treatment conditions on the laccase‐catalyzed dyeing of cotton fabric was investigated to determine their optimal parameters of laccase‐catalyzed coloration. Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy spectra demonstrated the formation of H‐bond and Schiff base reaction between chitosan and polymerized hydroquinone. Scanning electron microscopy indicated that the surface of dyed cotton fiber was much rougher than that of the control sample. Moreover, X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy also revealed the existence of the chitosan/polymerized hydroquinone complex and polymerized hydroquinone on the dyed cotton fibers. This chitosan‐templated approach offers possibility for biological dyeing coloration of cotton fabrics and other cellulosic materials.     

Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand

The objective of this study was to document the traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing by the Tai-Lao ethnic group in Roi Et province in northeastern Thailand. Traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing is disappearing because of modernization including new lifestyles, urbanization, and the introduction of synthetic colors. Textile dyeing with local plants, however, is experiencing a revival connected to ecotourism and global interest in natural products. To exploit that potential, it is important to preserve the local knowledge related to textile dyeing. We interviewed 60 Tai-Lao informants in 15 villages and 9 districts about their dyeing traditions and the species used through individual semi-structured and focus groups interviews. A total of 56 species in 50 genera and 31 families were used for dyeing cotton and silks; most species belonged to Fabaceae (11 spp., 19%) and Anacardiaceae (5 spp., 9%). Trees (36 spp., 65%) were the best represented life form among the dye plants, followed by shrubs and herbs (8 spp., 16% each), and climbers (4 spp., 7%). Bark was the plant part most commonly used for dyeing (25 spp., 42%) followed by leaves (12 spp., 20%), and fruits (9 spp., 15%). Home gardens were the most common habitat of dye plant (30 spp., 53%) followed by community forests (16 spp., 28%). Indigofera tinctoria L. and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. were the most important dye plant species of the Tai-Lao ethnic group as demonstrated by their high use value index (UV = 0.60). Blue/indigo-blue was the color most informants had common knowledge about with an informant consensus factor (ICF) of 0.92 followed by black with ICF = 0.84. Ten different colors were obtained from the 56 plant species. Brown/pale-brown/golden-brown was the color obtained from most dye plant species (14 spp., 25%) followed by green/pale-green/dark-green (13 spp., 23%). Nine different kinds of mordants were used in the dyeing, including alum, chrome (potassium dichromate; K₂Cr₂O₇), copper sulfate (CuSO₄), iron oxide (Fe₂O₃), tamarind juice (tartaric acid), salt (NaCl), lime (calcium oxide; CaO), ash (potassium hydroxide; KOH), and mud. Among the 56 species used for textile dyeing, three are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, including: Dipterocarpus alatus Roxb. & G.Don, Dipterocarpus obtusifolius Teijsm. ex Miq., and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. Documenting these and other species used for textile dyeing will provide additional arguments for their conservation. It will also help to secure the reappearing tradition of textile dyeing with local plants, and hence support the cultural integrity of the Tai-Lao communities, and serve as an example for other communities in Thailand and elsewhere for preserving their traditional knowledge.     

Crude bacterial extracts of two new Streptomyces sp. isolates as bio-colorants for textile dyeing

Renewed demand for incorporation of natural dyes (bio-colorants) in textile industry could be met through biotechnological production of bacterial pigments. Two new Streptomyces strains (NP2 and NP4) were isolated for the remarkable ability to produce diffusible deep blue and deep red pigment into fermentation medium. Crude mycelial extracts of both strains were used as bio-colorants in conventional textile dyeing procedures avoiding downstream purification procedures. The yields of bio-colorants obtained in this way were 62 and 84 mg per g of mycelia for Streptomyces sp. NP2 and Streptomyces sp. NP4, respectively. Through nuclear magnetic resonance analysis of crude extracts before and after dyeing procedures, it was shown that both extracts contained prodigiosin-like family of compounds that exhibited different dyeing capabilities towards different textile fibers. Polyamide and acrylic fibers were colored to the deepest shade, polyester and triacetate fibers to a noticeable, but much lower shade depth, while cotton and cellulosic fibers stained weakly. These results confirmed that crude bacterial extracts had the characteristics similar to those of ionic and disperse dyes, which was consistent with the identified polypyrrolic prodigiosin-like structures.     

Voltametric monitoring of enzyme-mediated indigo reduction in the presence of various fibre materials

A comparative study of enzyme-mediated indigo reduction is presented as an environmentally-friendly alternative to alkaline sodium dithionite reduction. The effect of the mediator 1,8-dihydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone in enzymatic reduction was studied by means of voltammetry, both in the presence and absence of different textile materials (polyamide 6, polyamide 6,6 and cotton), and compared to chemically reduced indigo. It was observed that bio-catalytic formation of leuco indigo and its exhaustion on substrates is inversely proportional to the pH within the range of 7–11. Additionally, substrate coloration was strongly influenced by the mediator, resulting in in situ formation of leuco indigo. This effect was most pronounced for polyamide substrates. The reuse of an enzyme-mediated reduction bath for dyeing was assessed showing that the levelness of the obtained shade was either excellent or good at pH 9 and 11, respectively. The wash, perspiration, and light color fastness properties of all textile materials dyed with enzymatically-reduced indigo were comparable or even better than those obtained with chemically reduced indigo. The use of enzyme-mediated reduction of indigo combined with potential reuse of the reduction bath represents a cost effective and environmentally-friendly dyeing process that can be applied for the dyeing of natural cellulosic and synthetic polyamide fibres.     

Pretreatment of textile dyeing wastewater using an anoxic baffled reactor

A study on pretreatment of textile dyeing wastewater was carried out using an anoxic baffled reactor (ABR) at wastewater temperatures of 5-31.1 degrees C. When hydraulic retention time (HRT) was 8h, the color of outflow of ABR was only 40 times at 5 degrees C and it could satisfy the professional discharge standard (grade-1) of textile and dyeing industry of China (GB4287-92). The total COD removal efficiency of ABR was 34.6%, 47.5%, 50.0%, 53.3%, 54.7% and 58.1% at 5, 9.7, 14.9, 19.7, 23.5 and 31.1 degrees C, respectively. Besides, after the wastewater being pre-treated by ABR when HRT was 6h and 8h, the BOD5/COD value rose from 0.30 of inflow to 0.46 of outflow and from 0.30 of inflow to 0.40 of outflow, respectively. Experimental results indicated that ABR was a very feasible process to decolorize and pre-treat the textile dyeing wastewater at ambient temperature. Moreover, a kinetic simulation of organic matter degradation in ABR at six different wastewater temperatures was carried through. The kinetic analysis showed the organic matter degradation was a first-order reaction. The reaction activation energy was 19.593 kJ mol(-1) and the temperature coefficient at 5-31.1 degrees C was 1.028.     

Performance of combined process of anoxic baffled reactor-biological contact oxidation treating printing and dyeing wastewater

A study of the treatment of printing and dyeing wastewater was carried out using the combined process of anoxic baffled reactor-biological contact oxidation. The results showed the pH ascended continuously and the oxidation-reduction potential dropped gradually from compartment 1-6 in ABR. When hydraulic retention time was 12h, color removal efficiency was 92% and the color of effluent of ABR could satisfy the professional emission standard (grade-1) of textile and dyeing industry of China. The total COD removal efficiency of the combined process was 86.6% and the COD of effluent could satisfy the professional emission standard (grade-2) of textile and dyeing industry of China.     

Simultaneous Application of Glucose Oxidases and Peroxidases in Bleaching Processes

Peroxidases (POD) are used in textile decoloration and bleaching processes, but these enzymes are unfortunately inactivated rapidly at high hydrogen peroxide concentrations. A new concept has therefore been developed, which is based on a simultaneous application of glucose oxidase and peroxidase. Starting with glucose as a substrate for glucose oxidase (GOD), hydrogen peroxide was generated in situ. The freshly formed substrate H₂O₂ was immediately used by the POD oxidizing colored compounds in dyeing baths. For example, 20 mg of the dyestuff Sirius Supra Blue®FGG 200 % could be decolorized using 125 mg glucose which corresponds to 24 mg hydrogen peroxide. These experiments show that the enzyme cascade works in principle in homogeneous decoloration processes. The enzymes were not degraded by the oxidant, because under these conditions the stationary peroxide concentration is nearly zero over the whole reaction time. Moreover, experiments were carried out to check if this combined system with GOD, glucose and POD could be used even in heterogeneous systems such as the textile bleaching of natural cotton fibers. Starting from 55, a significant higher degree of whiteness (according to Berger) up to 66 could be obtained.     

The Aquatic Environment and Textile Mill Effluents — An Ecological Risk Assessment

Textile mill effluents (TMEs) are wastewater discharges from textile mills that are involved in wet processes such as scouring, neutralizing, desizing, mercerizing, carbonizing, fulling, bleaching, dyeing, printing and other wet finishing activities. TMEs are complex mixtures containing a wide variety of chemicals which have a range of pH, temperature, colour and oxygen demand characteristics. Most wet processing mills in Canada discharge to municipal wastewater collection systems where those effluents receive some form of wastewater treatment. This paper reports the results of a tiered assessment approach that was used to determine the impacts on the aquatic environment of whole effluents discharged by wet processing textile mills in Canada. A conservative assessment indicated that no substantial threat to the aquatic environment was associated with TMEs receiving secondary or tertiary treatment, on- site or at a municipal wastewater treatment plant, prior to discharge to receiving waters. In the case of TMEs receiving only primary treatment or no treatment prior to discharge, a weight-of-evidence risk assessment supported the conclusion that those effluents could produce significant environmental harm in aquatic environments.     

A Carbon Footprint of Textile Recycling: A Case Study in Sweden

Global population growth and rising living standards are increasing apparel consumption. Consequently, consumption of resources and generation of textile waste are increasing. According to the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, textile consumption increased by 40% between the years 2000 and 2009 in Sweden. Given that there is currently no textile recycling plant in Sweden, the aim of this article is to explore the potential environmental benefits of various textile recycling techniques and thereby direct textile waste management strategies toward more sustainable options. Three different recycling techniques for a model waste consisting of 50% cotton and 50% polyester were identified and a life cycle assessment (LCA) was made to assess the environmental performance of them. The recycling processes are: material reuse of textile waste of adequate quality; separation of cellulose from polyester using N‐methylmorpholine‐N‐oxide as a solvent; and chemical recycling of polyester. These are compared to incineration, representing conventional textile waste treatment in Sweden. The results show that incineration has the highest global warming potential and primary energy usage. The material reuse process exhibits the best performance of the studied systems, with savings of 8 tonnes of carbon dioxide equivalents (CO₂‐eq) and 164 gigajoules (GJ) of primary energy per tonne of textile waste. Sensitivity analyses showed that results are particularly sensitive to the considered yields of the processes and to the choice of replaced products. An integration of these recycling technologies for optimal usage of their different features for treatment of 1 tonne of textile waste shows that 10 tonnes CO₂‐eq and 169 GJ of primary energy could be saved.     

Bioremediation concepts for treatment of dye containing wastewater: a review

Synthetic dyes are extensively used in wide range of industries amongst which textile processing industries are the major consumers. Large amounts of dyes are lost in wastewaters of these industries during dyeing and subsequent washing steps of textiles. These dyes are resistant to de gradation by conventional wastewater treatment plants and are released into environment untreated thus causing pollution of surface and ground waters in the areas of the world harboring such industries. Presence of color in wastewaters has become major environmental concern and stringent discharge standards are being enforced on release of colored wastewaters in environment. The seriousness of the problem is apparent from the magnitude of the research done in this field in last decade. Increasing number of microorganisms are being described for their ability to decolorize and degrade artificial dyes and novel bioremediation approaches for treatment dye bearing wastewaters are being worked out. In this review we have investigated potential microbial processes for developing feasible remediation technology to combat environmental pollution due to dye bearing wastewaters.     

Lichen purple—an annotated bibliography

This bibliography lists and contains comments on publications describing the textile dyeing applications and organic chemistry of purple dyes derived from lichens. Elsewhere in this issue such colorants are termed orcein; the usage “lichen purple” reflects the historical emphasis of the work described. Note that commentary by CJC is placed after the bibliographic information in italics.     

Cultivation and use of isatis tinctoria L. (Brassicaceae) in Southern Italy

Isatis tinctoria L. (Brassicaceae), commonly known as wood, is a biennial species with erect stem, hastate leaves, and yellow flowers clustered in racemes. Fruits are pendulous siliques. This species, probably indigenous of southeastern Asia, was used for the extraction of a dyeing agent called “indigo.” Wood was introduced in ancient times in Italy and the first records of its cultivation date back to the Roman period. For many centuries, wood cultivation remained stable, but grew dramatically in the eighteenth century. In that century, the Societá Economiche established by Bourbons encouraged the cultivation of it in Southern Italy. Near Caserta, in Campania region (Italy), a factory for the extraction of dyeing agents was established and the dye was used in textile production in San Leucio (Caserta). The cultivation of I. tinctoria is abandoned today, although this species grows spontaneously as a weed in Italy. The authors discuss the history of wood and some ancient extractive and dyeing methods.     

Effect of proteolytic enzyme on dyeing of wool with madder

In recent years, the use of low-environmental impact biotechnology giving rises to new types of treatment in the textile industry. The use of protease enzymes to improve some physical and mechanical properties such as smoothness, drapeability, dyeing affinity and water absorbency is particularly interesting. In this research, wool yarns were first treated with different concentrations of protease enzymes in water solution including 1, 2, 4 and 6% o.w.f. for 60 min. The dyeing process was then carried out on the treated yarns with madder (50% o.w.f.). Tensile strength of treated yarns was decreased due to enzyme treatment and it continued to decrease with an increase in enzyme concentration in solution. The L^* values decreased for the samples treated with enzyme. The wash and light fastness properties of samples were measured according to ISO 105-CO5 and Daylight ISO 105-BO1. The washing fastness properties of treated samples were not changed. In the case of light fastness properties, it was increased a little for 4% and 6% enzyme treated samples.     

Differential decolorization of textile dyes in mixtures and the joint effect of laccase and cellobiose dehydrogenase activities present in extracellular extracts from Funalia trogii

The largest part of the bio-decolorization investigations have been performed to date on a single dye without exploring the behavior in complex mixtures as the real dyeing baths. Therefore, mixtures of dyes belonging to azo and anthraquinonic classes, chosen among the most utilized in textile wool dyeing, were employed for comparative enzymatic decolorization studies using the extracellular extracts from the white rot fungus Funalia trogii, to understand how the concomitant presence of more than one dye could influence their degradation course and yield.Fungal extracts containing laccase activity only were capable to partially decolorize dyes mixtures from the different classes analyzed. The deconvolution of the decolorization with time allowed to monitor the degradation of the single dyes in the mixtures evidencing a time dependent differential decolorization not observed for the singles alone. Some dyes in the blend were in fact decolorized only when the most easily converted dyes were largely transformed. These experiments would allow to help the dyeing factories in the selection of the most readily degraded dyes.Since F. trogii grown on different media and activators shows diverse levels of expression of the redox enzymes laccase and cellobiose dehydrogenase (CDH), the dyes mixtures recalcitrant to decolorization by laccase activity alone, were subjected to the combined action of extracts containing laccase and CDH. The use of CDH, in support to the activity of laccase, resulted in substantial decolorization increases (>84%) for all the refractory dyes mixtures.     

Synthetic dye decolourization by white rot fungi

Synthetic dyes are integral part of many industrial products. The effluents generated from textile dyeing units create major environmental problems and issues both in public and textile units. Industrial wastewater treatment is one of the major problems in the present scenario. Though, the physical and chemical methods offer some solutions to the problems, it is not affordable by the unit operators. Biological degradation is recognized as the most effective method for degrading the dye present in the waste. Research over a period of two decades had provided insight into the various aspects of biological degradation of dyes. It is observed that the white rot fungi have a non-specific enzyme system, which oxidizes the recalcitrant dyes. Detailed and extensive studies have been made and process developed for treatment of dye containing wastewaters by white rot fungi and their enzyme systems. An attempt is made to summarize the detailed research contributions on these lines.     

Lichen purple—an annotated bibliography

This bibliography lists and contains comments on publications describing the textile dyeing applications and organic chemistry of purple dyes derived from lichens. Elsewhere in this issue such colorants are termed orcein; the usage “lichen purple” reflects the historical emphasis of the work described. Note that commentary by CJC is placed after the bibliographic information in italics.     

Indigenous knowledge of dye-yielding plants among Bai communities in Dali,Northwest Yunnan,China

Background

Bai people in the Dali Prefecture of Northwest Yunnan, China, have a long history of using plant extracts to dye their traditional costumes and maintain this culture for posterity. However, the development of modern technology, while vastly improving the dyeing efficiency, is also replacing indigenous knowledge which threatens the indigenous practice, causing the latter disappearing gradually. This study sought to examine the indigenous knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing in Bai communities, so as to provide a foundation for their sustainable development.

Methods

We conducted a semi-structured interview among 344 informants (above age 36) selected through a snowball sampling method. Free lists and participant observation were used as supplementary methods for the interviews. Three quantitative indicators (informant consensus factor [ICF], use frequency, and cultural importance index [CI]) were used to evaluate the indigenous knowledge of the dye-yielding plants.

Results

Twenty-three species belonging to 19 plant taxonomic families were used for dye by Bai communities. We summarized them into four life forms, eight used parts, five colors, three processing methods, and four dyeing methods. Among them, Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) O. Kuntze was the most traditional dyeing plant and has an important cultural value. Location, age, and gender were found to have a significant effect on indigenous knowledge, and the dyeing knowledge was dynamic and influenced by social factors.

Conclusions

Diverse plant resources and rich indigenous knowledge of textile dyeing persist at settlements of Bai communities in Dali Prefecture. However, high labor costs and thinning market of traditional products that use plant dye cause repulsion toward traditional practice. To that, a good income in other profession attracts indigenous people to shift from their tradition of making plant-based dye and associated cultural systems at risk of extinction. More research for market development for products that use plant-based dye is necessary for the conservation of this valuable knowledge and biodiversity protection in Bai communities.

     

Partially purified bitter gourd (Momordica charantia) peroxidase catalyzed decolorization of textile and other industrially important dyes

The aim of this study was to evaluate the enzymatic action of partially purified bitter gourd peroxidase for the degradation/decolorization of complex aromatic structures. Twenty-one dyes, with a wide spectrum of chemical groups, currently being used by the textile and other important industries have been selected for the study. Here, for the first time we have shown peroxidases from Momordica charantia (300 EU/gm of vegetable) to be highly effective in decolorizing industrially important dyes. Dye solutions, containing 50-200 mg dye/l, were used for the treatment with bitter gourd peroxidase (specific activity of 99.0 EU/mg protein). M. charantia peroxidases were able to decolorize most of the textile dyes by forming insoluble precipitate. When the textile dyes were treated with increasing concentration of enzyme, it was observed that greater fraction of the color was removed but four out of eight reactive dyes were recalcitrant to decolorization by bitter gourd peroxidase. Step-wise addition of enzyme to the decolorizing reaction mixture at the interval of 1h further enhanced the dye decolorization. The rate of decolorization was enhanced when the dyes were incubated with fixed quantity of enzyme for increasing times. Decolorization of non-textile dyes resulted in the degradation and removal of dyes from the solution without any precipitate formation. Decolorization rate was drastically increased when the textile and other industrially important non-textile dyes were treated with bitter gourd peroxidase in presence of 1.0 mM 1-hydroxybenzotriazole. Complex mixtures of dyes were prepared by taking three to four reactive textile and non-textile dyes in equal proportions. Each mixture was decolorized by more than 80% when treated with the enzyme in presence of 1.0 mM 1-hydroxybenzotriazole. Our data suggest that the peroxidase/mediator system is an effective biocatalyst for the treatment of effluents containing recalcitrant dyes from textile, dye manufacturing, dyeing and printing industries.     

Implementation of a biotechnological process for vat dyeing with woad

The traditional process for vat dyeing with woad (Isatis tinctoria L.) basically relies on microbial reduction of indigo to its soluble form, leucoindigo, through a complex fermentative process. In the 19th century, cultivation of woad went into decline and use of synthetic indigo dye and chemical reduction agents was established, with a consequent negative impact on the environment due to the release of polluting wastewaters by the synthetic dyeing industry. Recently, the ever-growing demand for environmentally friendly dyeing technologies has led to renewed interest in ecological textile traditions. In this context, this study aims at developing an environmentally friendly biotechnological process for vat dyeing with woad to replace use of polluting chemical reduction agents. Two simple broth media, containing yeast extract or corn steep liquor (CSL), were comparatively evaluated for their capacity to sustain the growth and reducing activity of the strain Clostridium isatidis DSM 15098(T). Subsequently, the dyeing capacity of the CSL medium added with 140?g?L(-1) of woad powder, providing 2.4?g?L(-1) of indigo dye, was evaluated after fermentation in laboratory bioreactors under anaerobic or microaerophilic conditions. In all fermentations, a sufficiently negative oxidation/reduction potential for reduction of indigo was reached as early as 24?h and maintained up to the end of the monitoring period. However, clearly faster indigo dye reduction was seen in the broth cultures fermented under strict anaerobiosis, thus suggesting the suitability of the N(2) flushing strategy for enhancement of bacterial-driven indigo reduction.