Modelling the stratum corneum lipid organisation with synthetic lipid mixtures: the importance of synthetic ceramide composition

Cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFA) and nine classes of ceramides (CER1-CER9) form the main constituents of the intercellular lipid lamellae in stratum corneum (SC), which regulate the skin barrier function. Both the presence of a unique 13-nm lamellar phase, of which the formation depends on the presence of CER1, and its dense lateral packing are characteristic for the SC lipid organisation. The present study focuses on the lipid organisation in mixtures prepared with CHOL, FFA and a limited number of synthetic CER, namely CER1, CER3 and bovine brain CER type IV (∑CERIV). The main objective is to determine the optimal molar ratio of CER3 to ∑CERIV for the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase. CER3 contains a uniform acyl chain length, whereas ∑CERIV contains fatty acids with varying chain lengths. Using small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD), it is demonstrated that the CER3 to ∑CERIV ratio affects the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase and that the optimal ratio depends on the presence of FFA. Furthermore, the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase is not very sensitive to variations in the total CER level, which is similar to the in vivo situation.     

Human stratum corneum lipid organization as observed by atomic force microscopy on Langmuir-Blodgett films

The barrier function of skin ultimately depends on the physical state and structural organisation of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. Ceramides, cholesterol and a broad distribution of saturated long-chain free fatty acids dominate the stratum corneum lipid composition. Additionally, smaller amounts of cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate may be present. A key feature determining skin barrier capacity is thought to be whether or not different lipid domains coexist laterally in the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. In this study, the overall tendency for lipid domain formation in different mixtures of extracted human stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate were studied using atomic force microscopy (AFM) on Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) films on mica. It is shown that the saturated long-chain free fatty acid distribution of human stratum corneum prevents hydrocarbon chain segregation. Further, LB-films of human stratum corneum ceramides express a pattern of connected elongated domains with a granular domain interface. The dominating effect of both cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate is that of increased ceramide domain dispersion. This effect is counteracted by the presence of free fatty acids, which preferentially mix with ceramides and not with cholesterol. Cholesteryl oleate does not mix with other skin lipid components, supporting the hypothesis of an extra-endogenous origin. In the system composed of endogenous human ceramides and cholesterol plus 15 wt% stratum corneum distributed free fatty acids, i.e., the system mimicking most closely the lipid composition of the stratum corneum extracellular space, LB-films on mica express lateral domain formation.     

Role of ceramide structure and its microenvironment on the conformational order of model stratum corneum lipids mixtures: an approach by FTIR spectroscopy

The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of ceramide head group architecture and free fatty acid (another main class of stratum corneum lipids) or protein (keratin), on the lamellar organization of the ceramide auto-associated in model films mimicking lipid organization within the stratum corneum. FTIR spectroscopy is a powerful technique for investigating the structure of such systems. This technique has already been used to characterize phase transitions of the SC and of related model systems. As temperature is known to modify the conformational order of lipids, we used it as a variable parameter to monitor the differences in the conformational stability of ceramides. Our study included four ceramides: ceramide 2, 3, 5 and 6 which differ by their head group architecture. Two kinds of lipid-lipid interactions were studied: non-polar and polar. We noted some structural factors which participated to the organizational behavior: insaturation of alkyl chain, alpha-hydroxyl on fatty acid moiety and sphingosine or phytosphingosine head group. There is a direct interaction of palmitic acid on alkyl chains organization and a weak interaction with polar head group in presence of keratin, both provoking a destabilization of the ceramidic orthorhombic organization.     

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.     

Arrangement of ceramide [EOS] in a stratum corneum lipid model matrix: new aspects revealed by neutron diffraction studies

The lipid matrix in stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in the barrier function of the mammalian skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). Especially the unique-structured omega-acylceramide CER[EOS] is regarded to be essential for skin barrier properties by inducing the formation of a long-periodicity phase of 130 angstroms (LPP). In the present study, the arrangement of CER[EOS], either mixed with CER[AP] and CHOL or with CER[AP], CHOL and palmitic acid (PA), inside a SC lipid model membrane has been studied for the first time by neutron diffraction. For a mixed CER[EOS]/CER[AP]/CHOL membrane in a partly dehydrated state, the internal membrane nanostructure, i.e. the neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface, was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The membrane repeat distance is equal to that of the formerly used SC lipid model system composed of CER[AP]/CHOL/PA/ChS. By comparing both the neutron scattering length density profiles, a possible arrangement of synthetic long-chain CER[EOS] molecules inside a SC lipid model matrix is suggested. The analysis of the internal membrane nanostructure implies that one CER[EOS] molecule penetrates from one membrane layer into an adjacent layer. A 130 angstroms periodicity phase could not be observed under experimental conditions, either in CER/CHOL mixtures or in CER/CHOL/FFA mixture. CER[EOS] can be arranged inside a phase with a repeat unit of 45.2 angstroms which is predominately formed by short-chain CER[AP] with distinct polarity.     

Molecular dynamics simulations of stratum corneum lipid models: fatty acids and cholesterol

We report the results of an investigation on stratum corneum lipids, which present the main barrier of the skin. Molecular dynamics simulations, thermal analysis and FTIR measurements were applied. The primary objective of this work was to study the effect of cholesterol on skin structure and dynamics. Two molecular models were constructed, a free fatty acid bilayer (stearic acid, palmitic acid) and a fatty acid/cholesterol mixture at a 1:1 molar ratio. Our simulations were performed at constant pressure and temperature on a nanosecond time scale. The resulting model structures were characterized by calculating surface areas per headgroup, conformational properties, atom densities and order parameters of the fatty acids. Analysis of the simulations indicates that the free fatty acid fraction of stratum corneum lipids stays in a highly ordered crystalline state at skin temperatures. The phase behavior is strongly influenced when cholesterol is added. Cholesterol smoothes the rigid phases of the fatty acids: the order of the hydrocarbon tails (mainly of the last eight bonds) is reduced, the area per molecule becomes larger, the fraction of trans dihedrals is lower and the hydrophobic thickness is reduced. The simulation results are in good agreement with our experimental data from FTIR analysis and NIR-FT Raman spectroscopy.     

Effect of dimethyl sulfoxide on the phase behavior of model stratum corneum lipid mixtures

Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), an efficient transdermal enhancer, is proposed to alter the skin barrier by, at least partially, disturbing the lipid phase of the stratum corneum (SC). We have investigated, using differential scanning calorimetry and vibrational microspectroscopy, the effect of DMSO on the phase behavior of a lipid mixture formed by N-palmitoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine, deuterated palmitic acid, and cholesterol, mimicking the SC lipid phase. Our results reveal that DMSO favors the disordering of the lipid acyl chains. Moreover, the effect of DMSO is strongly concentration dependent and this dependence is reminiscent of that describing the DMSO transdermal enhancement. DMSO-induced fluidification affects primarily the fatty acid in the mixture. Therefore, it is proposed that the molecular mechanism of the transdermal transport enhancement caused by DMSO is associated with its H-bonding properties; its presence alters the interfacial H-bond network involving the fatty acid molecules and consequently the cohesive lipid packing.     

Study of human stratum corneum and extracted lipids by thermomicroscopy and DSC

A study on the thermal behavior of human stratum corneum and lipids is described. The use of high scanning rate DSC for both SC and extracted lipids allows the consistent determination of transition temperatures, including those of lower energy. Changes are found both at physiological and higher temperatures. There is a clear correspondence between the thermotropic behavior of these two systems. However, one of the transitions found in human SC (approximately 55 degrees C) is absent in extracted lipids and may be ascribed to those covalently-linked to corneocytes. Lipidic thermotropic behavior is clearly found above 100 degrees C, in which proteins do not play an exclusive role. Changes related to most transitions are observed directly by polarized light thermal microscopy in extracted lipids. This technique also allowed for the observation of large segregated domains in the extracted lipids. A drastic change is observed at approximately 60 degrees C, corresponding to the disruption of the lamellar structure.     

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.     

Coexistence of two domains in intercellular lipid matrix of stratum corneum

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is composed of corneocytes and an intercellular lipid matrix. The matrix acts as both the main barrier and also as the pathway of water, drugs, etc. across the SC. In the mammalian SC, the longitudinal arrangement of the lipid molecules, consisting of long and short lamellar structures with repeat distances of about 13 nm and 6 nm, respectively, has been observed by small-angle X-ray diffraction. In the lateral arrangement of the lipid molecules, hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing has been observed by wide-angle X-ray diffraction. From the systematic study of the temperature dependence of simultaneous small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction patterns, we demonstrate that the intercellular lipid matrix forms two domains, which consist at room temperature of a long lamellar structure with hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing and a short lamellar structure with orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing.     

Coexistence of two domains in intercellular lipid matrix of stratum corneum

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is composed of corneocytes and an intercellular lipid matrix. The matrix acts as both the main barrier and also as the pathway of water, drugs, etc. across the SC. In the mammalian SC, the longitudinal arrangement of the lipid molecules, consisting of long and short lamellar structures with repeat distances of about 13 nm and 6 nm, respectively, has been observed by small-angle X-ray diffraction. In the lateral arrangement of the lipid molecules, hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing has been observed by wide-angle X-ray diffraction. From the systematic study of the temperature dependence of simultaneous small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction patterns, we demonstrate that the intercellular lipid matrix forms two domains, which consist at room temperature of a long lamellar structure with hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing and a short lamellar structure with orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing.     

Modelling the stratum corneum lipid organisation with synthetic lipid mixtures: the importance of synthetic ceramide composition

Cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFA) and nine classes of ceramides (CER1-CER9) form the main constituents of the intercellular lipid lamellae in stratum corneum (SC), which regulate the skin barrier function. Both the presence of a unique 13-nm lamellar phase, of which the formation depends on the presence of CER1, and its dense lateral packing are characteristic for the SC lipid organisation. The present study focuses on the lipid organisation in mixtures prepared with CHOL, FFA and a limited number of synthetic CER, namely CER1, CER3 and bovine brain CER type IV (SigmaCERIV). The main objective is to determine the optimal molar ratio of CER3 to SigmaCERIV for the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase. CER3 contains a uniform acyl chain length, whereas SigmaCERIV contains fatty acids with varying chain lengths. Using small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD), it is demonstrated that the CER3 to SigmaCERIV ratio affects the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase and that the optimal ratio depends on the presence of FFA. Furthermore, the formation of the 13-nm lamellar phase is not very sensitive to variations in the total CER level, which is similar to the in vivo situation.     

Molecular models of the intercellular lipid lamellae from epidermal stratum corneum

The purpose of the present study was to test the hypothesis that the 13 nm trilamellar repeat units within the intercellular spaces of epidermal stratum corneum are composed of lamellae with alternating 5-3-5 nm dimensions as presented in previous models [J. Invest. Dermatol. 92 (1989) 251, P.W. Wertz, Integral lipids in hair and stratum corneum, in: P. Jolles, H. Zahn, H. Hocker (Eds.), Hair: Biology And Structure, Birkhauser Verlag, Basel, 1996, pp. 227-238, Acta Derm.-Venereol., Suppl. 208 (2000) 23]. Electron density profiles were measured from transmission electron micrographs of porcine stratum corneum prepared using ruthenium tetroxide [J. Invest. Dermatol. 92 (1989) 251]. Center-to-center distances of adjacent electron-dense bands as well as adjacent lucent bands were measured. Dense band center-to-center measurements were consistent with a 5-3-5 nm arrangement. However, lucent band center-to-center measurements revealed uniform lamellar thickness. It is suggested that linoleate chains in the central lamella reduce more ruthenium than the predominantly saturated chains in the outer lamellae and that this additional reduced ruthenium accumulates under the polar head group regions. A similar phenomenon involving the sphingosine moieties of the covalently bound ω-hydroxyceramide molecules accounts for the three-band pattern seen between the ends of adjacent corneocytes. It is concluded that the component lamellae of the several types of 13 nm trilamellar units of the stratum corneum are all of equal thickness.     

Molecular models of the intercellular lipid lamellae from epidermal stratum corneum

The purpose of the present study was to test the hypothesis that the 13 nm trilamellar repeat units within the intercellular spaces of epidermal stratum corneum are composed of lamellae with alternating 5-3-5 nm dimensions as presented in previous models [J. Invest. Dermatol. 92 (1989) 251, P.W. Wertz, Integral lipids in hair and stratum corneum, in: P. Jolles, H. Zahn, H. Hocker (Eds.), Hair: Biology And Structure, Birkhauser Verlag, Basel, 1996, pp. 227-238, Acta Derm.-Venereol., Suppl. 208 (2000) 23]. Electron density profiles were measured from transmission electron micrographs of porcine stratum corneum prepared using ruthenium tetroxide [J. Invest. Dermatol. 92 (1989) 251]. Center-to-center distances of adjacent electron-dense bands as well as adjacent lucent bands were measured. Dense band center-to-center measurements were consistent with a 5-3-5 nm arrangement. However, lucent band center-to-center measurements revealed uniform lamellar thickness. It is suggested that linoleate chains in the central lamella reduce more ruthenium than the predominantly saturated chains in the outer lamellae and that this additional reduced ruthenium accumulates under the polar head group regions. A similar phenomenon involving the sphingosine moieties of the covalently bound omega-hydroxyceramide molecules accounts for the three-band pattern seen between the ends of adjacent corneocytes. It is concluded that the component lamellae of the several types of 13 nm trilamellar units of the stratum corneum are all of equal thickness.     

Characterization of overall ceramide species in human stratum corneum

Ceramides (CERs) in human stratum corneum (SC) play physicochemical roles in determining barrier and water-holding functions of the skin, and specific species might be closely related to the regulation of keratinization, together with other CER-related lipids. Structures of those diverse CER species, however, have not been comprehensively revealed. The aim of this study was to characterize overall CER species in the SC. First, we constructed 3D multi-mass chromatograms of the overall CER species, based on normal-phase liquid chromatography (NPLC) connected to electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) using a gradient elution system and a postcolumn addition of a volatile salt-containing polar solvent. The CERs targeted from the 3D chromatograms were structurally analyzed using NPLC-ESI-tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS), which resulted in the identification of 342 CER species in the inner forearm SC. This led to the discovery of a new CER class consisting of alpha-hydroxy fatty acid and dihydrosphingosine moieties, in addition to the 10 classes generally known. The results also revealed that those CERs contain long-chain (more than C(18))-containing sphingoids and a great number of isobaric species. These novel results will contribute not only to physiochemical research on CERs in the SC but also to lipidomics approaches to CERs in the skin.     

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.     

Comprehensive quantification of ceramide species in human stratum corneum

One of the key challenges in lipidomics is to quantify lipidomes of interest, as it is practically impossible to collect all authentic materials covering the targeted lipidomes. For diverse ceramides (CER) in human stratum corneum (SC) that play important physicochemical roles in the skin, we developed a novel method for quantification of the overall CER species by improving our previously reported profiling technique using normal-phase liquid chromatog­raphy-electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (NPLC-ESI-MS). The use of simultaneous selected ion monitoring measurement of as many as 182 kinds of molecular-related ions enables the highly sensitive detection of the overall CER species, as they can be analyzed in only one SC-stripped tape as small as 5 mm × 10 mm. To comprehensively quantify CERs, including those not available as authentic species, we designed a procedure to estimate their levels using relative responses of representative authentic species covering the species targeted, considering the systematic error based on intra-/inter-day analyses. The CER levels obtained by this method were comparable to those determined by conventional thin-layer chromatography (TLC), which guarantees the validity of this method. This method opens lipidomics approaches for CERs in the SC.     

Investigation of the interaction between modified ISCOMs and stratum corneum lipid model systems

The modified ISCOMs, so-called Posintro™ nanoparticles, provide an opportunity for altering the surface charge of the particles, which influences their affinity for the negatively charged antigen sites, cell membranes and lipids in the skin. Hypothetically, this increases the passage of the ISCOMs (or their components) and their load through the stratum corneum. The subsequent increase in the uptake by the antigen-presenting cells results in enhanced transcutaneous immunization. To understand the nature of penetration of Posintro™ nanoparticles into the intercorneocyte space of the stratum corneum, the interaction between the nanoparticles and lipid model systems in form of liposomes and/or supported lipid bilayer was studied. As a lipid model we used Stratum Corneum Lipid (SCL), a mixture similar in composition to the lipids of the intercorneocyte space. By Förster Resonance Energy Transfer (FRET), Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), Electrochemical Impedance Spectroscopy (EIS) and cryo-Transmission Electron Microscopy (cryo-TEM) it was shown that application of nanoparticles to the SCL bilayers results in lipid disturbance. Investigation of this interaction by means of Isothermal Titration Calorimetry (ITC) confirmed existence of an enthalpically unfavorable reaction. All these methods demonstrated that the strength of electrostatic repulsion between the negatively charged SCL and the nanoparticles affected their interaction, as decreasing the negative charge of the Posintro™ nanoparticles leads to enhanced disruption of lipid organization.     

Preparation and characterization of a stratum corneum substitute for in vitro percutaneous penetration studies

The intercellular stratum corneum (SC) lipids form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. A porous substrate covered with synthetic SC lipids would be an attractive model to study percutaneous penetration, hereby replacing native human SC. Prerequisite is that this stratum corneum substitute (SCS) is prepared with a uniform lipid composition and layer thickness. Furthermore, the lipid organization and orientation should resemble that in SC. The objective of this study was to investigate the utility of an airbrush spraying device to prepare a SCS composed of cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids on a polycarbonate filter. The results demonstrate that a proper choice of solvent mixture and lipid concentration is crucial to achieve a uniform distribution of the applied lipids over the filter surface. A smooth and tightly packed lipid layer is only obtained when the equilibration conditions are appropriately chosen. The SCS possesses two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities similar to those present in native SC. The orientation of these lamellae is mainly parallel to the surface of the polycarbonate filter, which resembles the orientation of the intercellular SC lipids. In conclusion, the airbrush technique enables generation of a homogeneous SCS, which ultimately may function as a predictive in vitro percutaneous penetration model.