On the circulation in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

For a period of 22 months beginning in September 2003, an array of four current profilers were deployed on the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon, a microtidal Caribbean environment characterised by the influence of the Yucatan Current (YC) and a Trade Wind regime. The dataset includes water currents, bottom pressure, and surface waves complemented with coastal meteorological data and surface currents from an acoustic Doppler current profiler moored 12 km offshore. Normal circulation conditions consisted of a surface wave-induced flow entering the lagoon over a shallow reef flat and strong flows exiting through northern and southern channels. This wave induced flow was modulated by a low-frequency sea level change related to a geostrophic response to the YC variability offshore, with tidal and direct wind forcing playing additional minor roles. Under extended summer low-wave height conditions, together with a decrease in sea level from the intensification of the offshore current, the exchange of the lagoon with the adjacent ocean was drastically reduced. Under normal wave conditions (H _S = 0.8 ± 0.4 m, mean ± SD), water residence time was on average 3 h, whereas during Hurricane Ivan’s extreme swell (H _S = 6 m) it decreased to 0.35 h.     

Residence times of neutrally-buoyant matter such as larvae,sewage or nutrients on coral reefs

Coral reef flushing times at an individual reef scale are specified and a general formula to determine these times is developed. The formula is confirmed by comparison with residence times predicted by numerical small-scale reef models, including those from a 4 month unsteady current simulation of John Brewer Reef on Australia's Great Barrier Reef. The method proves to be a satisfactory alternative to the numerical modelling. When neutrally-buoyant material around a reef is removed by the currents, the concentrations decay exponentially. The decay rate depends primarily on free stream current and reef dimensions. Secondary factors are the tidal excursion, shelf depth, lagoon size and residual current in the lee of the reef. These factors, when combined into a decay coefficient, specify the rate of loss of neutrally-buoyant material (e.g. some larvae, pollutants and sewage) from a coral reef and its surrounds. The analytical formula can be used to predict the flushing rates or the percentage of material still remaining on a reef after a selected time interval. We demonstrate that material can remain on or near typical reefs in common weather conditions for several weeks.     

Wave and tidal flushing in a near-equatorial mesotidal atoll

Most of the atolls found worldwide are under microtidal regimes, and their circulation mechanisms are widely documented and well known. Here, we describe the flushing mechanisms of a small-sized mesotidal atoll, based on water-level, wave and current data obtained during two different periods (total of 60 d). Rocas is the only atoll in the South Atlantic Ocean and is built primarily of coralline algae. Two reef passages connect the atoll lagoon to the ocean. Synchronous current profilers were deployed at the two reef passages, one inside and one outside the atoll, to characterize the influence of tides and waves on the circulation. Results showed that wind waves drove a setup on the exposed side of the atoll and that currents were predominately downwind, causing outflow at both reef passages. Waves breaking on the windward side supplied water to the atoll causing the lagoon water level to rise above ocean water level, driving the outflow. However, unlike microtidal atolls, at Rocas Atoll the water level drops significantly below the reef rim during low tides. This causes the reef rim to act as a barrier to water pumping into the lagoon by waves, resulting in periodic activation of the wave pumping mechanism throughout a tidal cycle. As result, inflow occurs in the wider passage during 27% of each tidal cycle, starting at low tides and reversing direction during mid-flood tide when the water level exceeded approximately 1.6 m (while overtopping the atoll’s rim). Our findings show that tides play a direct role in driving circulation on a mesotidal atoll, not only by modulating wave setup but also by determining the duration of wave pumping into the lagoon.

     

Flow through a rough,shallow reef

This paper presents a simple model of wave-driven flow through a coral reef that is characterized by a shallow, wide reef crest and a deeper, but frictional lagoon. Assuming that the dominant momentum balances are between quadratic drag and barotropic pressure gradients, along-lagoon and cross-reef flows are coupled through continuity and through a setup of the water surface in the lagoon that varies in the along-reef direction. Scaling of the governing equations shows that this flow is governed by a single parameter P that expresses the competing effects of cross-reef and along-lagoon drag. When P < 1, the cross-reef flow is nearly constant, whereas when P > 1, only that portion of the reef closest to the pass through the reef crest through which fluid exists the lagoon supports cross-reef flows.     

Physical processes in an Indian Ocean atoll

 Detailed measurements of water levels, and tide and wave-induced currents were undertaken to examine physical processes and their relationship with morphology in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, a medium sized atoll in the Indian Ocean. Results indicate that the atoll structure controls both lagoon circulation and the spatial pattern of energy distribution. Lagoon circulation is tide dominated (currents 16–31 cms^-1) with flushing (2–5 days) of the lagoon occurring through the deep leeward passages. Wave- and tide-driven unidirectional flows through shallow passages (26–65 cms^-1) are important mechanisms of ocean to lagoon water exchange and contribute up to 24% of the lagoon neap tide prism. Reef flats are dominated by wave energy (maximum velocity 140 cms^-1, east) with measurements of the attenuation of wave energy between reef flats and shallow lagoon (80–90%) conforming to measurements from fringing and barrier reefs. Spectral analysis shows that the characteristics of wave energy vary on different sectors of the atoll, with gravity wave energy dominating the east, and infragravity wave energy dominating the southern reef flat and passages. Wave setup at the reef crest is considered to be responsible for an identified 0.1 m higher water level in the southern as opposed to eastern and northern atoll, which promotes higher reef flat growth. Transmission of gravity waves across reef flats requires threshold water depths of 0.65 (east) and 0.70 m (south). The higher southern reef is an effective filter of gravity wave energy for most tidal elevations. Differences in the type and magnitude of physical processes within the atoll are discussed with relation to geomorphic development on Cocos. Accepted: 28 February 1998     

A simple approximation for larval retention around reefs

Estimating larval retention at individual reefs by local scale three-dimensional flows is a significant problem for understanding, and predicting, larval dispersal. Determining larval dispersal commonly involves the use of computationally demanding and expensively calibrated/validated hydrodynamic models that resolve reef wake eddies. This study models variation in larval retention times for a range of reef shapes and circulation regimes, using a reef-scale three-dimensional hydrodynamic model. It also explores how well larval retention time can be estimated based on the “Island Wake Parameter”, a measure of the degree of flow turbulence in the wake of reefs that is a simple function of flow speed, reef dimension, and vertical diffusion. The mean residence times found in the present study (0.48–5.64 days) indicate substantial potential for self-recruitment of species whose larvae are passive, or weak swimmers, for the first several days after release. Results also reveal strong and significant relationships between the Island Wake Parameter and mean residence time, explaining 81–92% of the variability in retention among reefs across a range of unidirectional flow speeds and tidal regimes. These findings suggest that good estimates of larval retention may be obtained from relatively coarse-scale characteristics of the flow, and basic features of reef geomorphology. Such approximations may be a valuable tool for modeling connectivity and meta-population dynamics over large spatial scales, where explicitly characterizing fine-scale flows around reef requires a prohibitive amount of computation and extensive model calibration.     

Current Patterns and the Distribution of Benthic Habitats in a Coastal Lagoon of Mauritius

The oceanography around Mauritius (in the Western Indian Ocean) remains largely unstudied, hence there is an acute scarcity of marine environmental data for management purposes. Rigorous water depth and current measurements were made on a system of grids inside Le Morne lagoon (in the south western part of Mauritius) in March–April 2000 to generate semi-quantitative models of general flow pattern in the form of contour maps using SURFER 6 computer programme. A simultaneous survey on composition of bottom cover was conducted to examine possible relationships with current speed. A separate investigation recorded surface and bottom currents prevailing amongst various habitat types to demonstrate the nature of the resulting damping effect on surface current speed. Significant correlations generated from data analysis were discussed as a basis for real biophysical relationships. Some of the limitations in the current analysis and some of the seemingly contradictory results are acknowledged and addressed in the light of the general assumption that the structure of the lagoon is conditioned by current speeds. Much stronger current speeds just outside the reef (e.g. >0.5 m s⁻¹) than inside the lagoon (e.g. <0.32 m s⁻¹) indicated a substantial slow-down of water current by the reef barrier. Inshore bottom currents were weaker than at the surface and current speed correlated well with water depth. Bottom and surface current directions were generally similar, i.e. going northward during flood tide and southward during ebb. The lagoon would be classified as ‘restricted’, exhibiting well-defined tidal circulation, which is modified by wind forcing. Dense fields of branching Acropora corals slowed down surface current speed by as much as 87%, but the relationship between current speed and bottom cover appears to be variable, depending on the specific location within the lagoon under consideration. The contour plots of the flow pattern model generated reasonably high qualitative modelling of spatial current speed pattern in the lagoon, with stronger currents generally along the reef areas, at the reef passes and in the deeper zones. However, these plots did not match closely those displaying distribution of bottom cover, thus confirming results obtained from pair-wise correlation tests, namely the lack of a significant relationship between current speed and bottom cover. Most of the correlations would appear to represent biological relationships, with different types of communities enabling or excluding other types. Thus, the biophysical structure of the lagoon would be driven a priori by the distribution and abundance of corals rather than current speeds, which contradicts the above hypothesis. Recurrent natural hazards subject the benthic communities to a state of ‘perpetual knock-down and recovery’. Recovery, however, can be seriously impaired by the chronic ongoing degradation of the coastal marine environment of Mauritius. An urgent review of its coastal zone management and protection strategy would be desirable for the island.     

Time scales of circulation and mixing processes of San Francisco Bay waters

Conceptual models for tidal period and low-frequency variations in sea level, currents, and mixing processes in the northern and southern reaches of San Francisco Bay describe the contrasting characteristics and dissimilar processes and rates in these embayments: The northern reach is a partially mixed estuary whereas the southern reach (South Bay) is a tidally oscillating lagoon with density-driven exchanges with the northern reach.The mixed semidiurnal tides are mixtures of progressive and standing waves. The relatively simple oscillations in South Bay are nearly standing waves, with energy propagating down the channels and dispersing into the broad shoal areas. The tides of the northern reach have the general properties of a progressive wave but are altered at the constriction of the embayments and gradually change in an upstream direction to a mixture of progressive and standing waves. The spring and neap variations of the tides are pronounced and cause fortnightly varying tidal currents that affect mixing and salinity stratification in the water column.Wind stress on the water surface, freshwater inflow, and tidal currents interacting with the complex bay configuration are the major local forcing mechanisms creating low-frequency variations in sea level and currents. These local forcing mechanisms drive the residual flows which, with tidal diffusion, control the water-replacement rates in the estuary. In the northern reach, the longitudinal density gradient drives an estuarine circulation in the channels, and the spatial variation in tidal amplitude creates a tidally-driven residual circulation. In contrast, South Bay exhibits a balance between wind-driven circulation and tidally-driven residual circulation for most of the year. During winter, however, there can be sufficient density variations to drive multilayer (2 to 3) flows in the channel of South Bay.Mixing models (that include both diffusive and dispersive processes) are based on time scales associated with salt variations at the boundaries and those associated with the local forcing mechanisms, while the spatial scales of variations are dependent upon the configuration of the embayments. In the northern reach, where the estuarine circulation is strong, the salt flux is carried by the mean advection of the mean salt field. Where large salinity gradients are present, the tidal correlation part of the salt flux is of the same order as the advective part. Our knowledge of mixing and exchange rates in South Bay is poor. As this embayment is nearly isohaline, the salt flux is dominated entirely by the mean advection of the mean salt field. During and after peaks in river discharge, water mixing becomes more dynamic, with a strong density-driven current creating a net exchange of both water mass and salt. These exchanges are stronger during neap tides.Residence times of the water masses vary seasonally and differ between reaches. In the northern reach, residence times are on the order of days for high winter river discharge and of months for summer periods. The residence times for South Bay are fairly long (on the order of several months) during summer, and typically shorter (less than a month) during winter when density-driven exchanges occur.     

Using transplanted oyster (Crassostrea virginica) beds to improve water quality in small tidal creeks: a pilot study

The Eastern oyster, Crassostrea virginica, may improve water quality by filtering large quantities of particulate matter (both organic and inorganic) and nutrients from the overlying water column. Additionally, oyster reefs alter hydrodynamic conditions, further increasing the removal of particulate matter from the water column. This study examined the effects of small-scale oyster additions on sediment loading, chlorophyll a, nutrient concentrations, and flow in small tidal creeks. Two reefs were established in Hewletts Creek, New Hanover County, North Carolina. Total suspended solids (TSS), chlorophyll a, and ammonium were measured upstream and downstream of each created reef and in an adjacent control channel that lacked a reef. Data were collected monthly during ebb tides over a 10-month period between September 2000 and June 2001. In the first month after initial reef placement, mean TSS concentrations downstream of reef placement were slightly lower than those upstream of the reef. Although not statistically significant, TSS concentrations downstream of the reefs were less than upstream concentrations for five out of nine and five out of seven post-reef sampling months for the upland and the lower creek sites, respectively. Chlorophyll a concentrations were not significantly affected by initial reef placement (2×3 m), but were reduced substantially after reef enlargement (3×4 m) in one of the experimental creeks. Reef placement resulted in significant increases in ammonium concentrations downstream of the transplanted-reefs. In addition, deposition of feces and pseudofeces by the oysters resulted in accumulation of finer-grained materials in the treated channel relative to the control channels. Oyster filtration was most effective three hours following high tide, when the ratio of flow discharge to reef surface area was the highest. This work demonstrates that small oyster reefs established and maintained in some small tributary channels can reduce TSS and chlorophyll a concentrations and that the magnitude of the effect may vary over the course of the tidal cycle.     

Distribution of zooplankton during opposite tide fluxes in the lagoon complex of Chelem, Yucatan, Mexico]

Zooplankton was surveyed in a tropical lagoon system of the northern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula in high tide, December (1998) and low tide, March 1999 (northerlies season). Zooplankton biomass was measured, zooplankters were counted, and copepods were identified and quantified. Despite the fact that both months were influenced by winds from the North, they showed a different salinity gradient which developed a particular structure of the zooplankton community. Biomass tended to be accumulated in certain areas apparently because of the high residence time of water in Chelem, the forcing effect of the northerlies, and of the tidal current. Biomass values suggest a relatively high secondary production when compared with other systems of the Yucatan Peninsula. The distribution of the copepods Acartia lilljeborgii and A. tonsa is related to saline conditions and tidal flow. The overall faunistic and hydrologic data suggest that even during a single climatic season, the zooplankton community shows strong changes due to mesoscale hydrological processes.     

Wave-current interactions on a shallow reef (Nicaragua,Central America)

Measurements of wave height and currents associated with normal trade-wind conditions have been made on a linear reef that parallels the northern and northeastern coast of Great Corn Island, eastern shelf of Nicaragua, Central America. Analyses indicate that waves breaking over the reef crest generate lagoonward flow normal to the reef. Average reef-normal flow was in the range of 10 to 20 cm/s; however, individual wave surges reached values of up to 180 cm/s. The strength of the over-the-reef flow is modulated by the tide. Lagoon currents are weak (2–5 cm/s) and change direction with the tide as the lagoon fills and drains. Long-period oscillations in water level (30 s to 20 min) and in the current were observed, and may be important in transporting fine-grained sediments out of the reef-lagoon system. Strong, short-duration surge currents ( <5 s) transport coarse sediment from the breaker zone to the seaward margin of the backreef lagoon.     

Near-surface enrichment of zooplankton over a shallow back reef: implications for coral reef food webs

Zooplankton were 3–8 times more abundant during the day near the surface than elsewhere in the water column over a 1–2.4 m deep back reef in Moorea, French Polynesia. Zooplankton were also significantly more abundant near the surface at night although gradients were most pronounced under moonlight. Zooplankton in a unidirectional current became concentrated near the surface within 2 m of departing a well-mixed trough immediately behind the reef crest, indicating that upward swimming behavior, rather than near-bottom depletion by reef planktivores, was the proximal cause of these gradients. Zooplankton were highly enriched near the surface before and after a full lunar eclipse but distributed evenly throughout the water column during the eclipse itself supporting light as a proximal cue for the upward swimming behavior of many taxa. This is the first investigation of the vertical distribution of zooplankton over a shallow back reef typical of island barrier reef systems common around the world. Previous studies on deeper fringing reefs found zooplankton depletion near the bottom but no enrichment aloft. In Moorea, where seawater is continuously recirculated out the lagoon and back across the reef crest onto the back reef, selection for upward swimming behavior may be especially strong, because the surface serves both as a refuge from predation and an optimum location for retention within the reef system. Planktivorous fish and corals that can forage or grow even marginally higher in the water column might have a substantial competitive advantage over those nearer the bottom on shallow reefs. Zooplankton abundance varied more over a few tens of centimeters vertical distance than it did between seasons or even between day and night indicating that great care must be taken to accurately assess the availability of zooplankton as food on shallow reefs.     

Coral-reef hydrology: field studies of water movement within a barrier reef

Water movement through the framework of Davies Reef, a coral reef in the central Australian Great Barrier Reef, was studied using field and laboratory determinations of permeability, tide gauge measurements of water levels, dye tracers, and pore water chemistry. Flow is driven by current, wind-induced, or tide-induced water level differences which were shown to occur between reef front and lagoon. The reef is hydraulically very heterogeneous with bulk flow occurring through high permeability zones (voids and rubble) at a velocity on the order of 10 m/d. Pore water exchange in less permeable zones occurs at a much slower rate. Vertical components of flow are significant. Chemical data indicate that carbonate precipitation and solution occur so that porosities, permeabilities, and flow paths may change with time. Implications for nutrient transfer through the benthic sediments and for fresh water resources on reef islands are discussed.     

Tidal downwelling and implications for the carbon biogeochemistry of cold‐water corals in relation to future ocean acidification and warming

Cold‐water coral (CWC) reefs are recognized as ecologically and biologically significant areas that generate habitats and diversity. The interaction between hydrodynamics and CWCs has been well studied at the Mingulay Reef Complex, a relatively shallow area of reefs found on the continental shelf off Scotland, UK. Within ‘Mingulay Area 01’ a rapid tidal downwelling of surface waters, brought about as an internal wave, is known to supply warmer, phytoplankton‐rich waters to corals growing on the northern flank of an east‐west trending seabed ridge. This study shows that this tidal downwelling also causes short‐term perturbations in the inorganic carbon (C_T) and nutrient dynamics through the water column and immediately above the reef. Over a 14 h period, corresponding to one semi‐diurnal tidal cycle, seawater pH overlying the reef varied by ca. 0.1 pH unit, while pCO₂ shifted by >60 μatm, a shift equivalent to a ca. 25 year jump into the future, with respect to atmospheric pCO₂. During the summer stratified period, these downwelling events result in the reef being washed over with surface water that has higher pH, is warmer, nutrient depleted, but rich in phytoplankton‐derived particles compared to the deeper waters in which the corals sit. Empirical observations, together with outputs from the European Regional Shelf Sea Ecosystem Model, demonstrate that the variability that the CWC reefs experience changes through the seasons and into the future. Hence, as ocean acidification and warming increase into the future, the downwelling event specific to this site could provide short‐term amelioration of corrosive conditions at certain times of the year; however, it could additionally result in enhanced detrimental impacts of warming on CWCs. Natural variability in the C_T and nutrient conditions, as well as local hydrodynamic regimes, must be accounted for in any future predictions concerning the responses of marine ecosystems to climate change.     

Morphologie, Ökologie und Zonierung von Korallenriffen bei Aqaba, (Golf von Aqaba,Rotes Meer)

The coral reefs of the Gulf of Aqaba are among the most northern ones of the world. This study, the first concerning the east coast of this topographically and hydrographically peculiar sea, considers relationships of biophysiographical and structural reef zones to fundamental abiotic environmental factors. An introduction to paleogeography, geology, petrography, topography, climate and hydrography is followed by terminological definitions used to describe the different reef areas. The investigations were carried out on two transects crossing fringing reefs of different shape. Each transect was 20 m wide and run from the shore over nearly 200 m to the fore reef in about 30 m depth. One reef, a “coastal-fringing reef”, represents an unaltered straight reef flat from shore to the reef edge 60 m away; two large pinnacles reach the surface some 125 m off the shore. The other reef, a “lagoon-fringing reef”, is divided into a 100 m wide lagoon of 0.5–2.3 m depth and a reef crest separated from the former by a rear reef. The reef platform of the lagoon-fringing reef is cut by a system of channels and tunnels; the reef edge is about 135 m off shore. Such water depth, substrate, temperature, illumination and water movement were recorded, about 200 common or dominant species (plants and animals) were collected, their distribution plotted and, together with other data and structural items, charted. Indicator species characterize the biophysiographical zones. Their variation as well as that of the structural and substrate zones depend on different zones of water movement. This basic factor also controls other ecological parameters such as food and oxygen supply as well as temperature and salinity gradients between fore reef and shore. From this point of view the ecological requirements of some indicator and other species and conversely the ecological settings of different reef areas are discussed. The different shapes of both reefs are explained on the basis of a “reef development cycle” — a hypothesis applicable to fringing reefs at unchanging sea level and based on the fact that only a small surf-influenced area of “living reef” is able to compensate for reef destruction: While a young coastal fringing reef is growing outwards, its back reef is gradually altered to a reef lagoon by erosion. After stillstand of seaward expansion the reef crest, too, is cut by a channel system eroded by rip currents. This stage is represented by the lagoon-fringing reef. Isolated pinnacles remain as remnants of the former reef crest; young coastal-fringing reefs develop from the shore. This stage is examplified by the first reef studied. Extension, growth intensity, dominant frame building corals, and the number of species of the Aqaba reefs are compared with those of Eilat and with reefs of the middle Red Sea, South India, Southwest-Pacific and Jamaica.     

Modelling wind driven circulation One Tree Reef,Southern Great Barrier Reef

A vertically integrated numerical model of wind-driven circulation at One Tree Reef is presented. The model is the numerical model SURGE developed originally to study tropical cyclone surge. Current data collected in the reef lagoon and over the reef flats is used to test the model's applicability. The reef topography has been modelled explicitly, rather than using an assumed reef shape, with a grid spacing of 150 m. The model corresponds well to the measured current behaviour. The greatest drawback to use of the model is that, at low tide, currents reverse with depth due to lagoon enclosure and a depth integrated model cannot produce water velocity depth profiles. The model can be used to predict current behaviour in strong wind conditions, such as during a cyclone, and to estimate net flows into and out of the lagoon.     

Responses of algal communities to gradients in herbivore biomass and water quality in Marovo Lagoon, Solomon Islands

Settlement tiles were used to characterise and quantify coral reef associated algal communities along water quality and herbivory gradients from terrestrial influenced near shore sites to oceanic passage sites in Marovo Lagoon, the Solomon Islands. After 6 months, settlement tile communities from inshore reefs were dominated by high biomass algal turfs (filamentous algae and cyanobacteria) whereas tiles located on offshore reefs were characterised by a mixed low biomass community of calcareous crustose algae, fleshy crustose algae and bare tile. The exclusion of macrograzers, via caging of tiles, on the outer reef sites resulted in the development of an algal turf community similar to that observed on inshore reefs. Caging on the inshore reef tiles had a limited impact on community composition or biomass. Water quality and herbivorous fish biomass were quantified at each site to elucidate factors that might influence algal community structure across the lagoon. Herbivore biomass was the dominant driver of algal community structure. Algal biomass on the other hand was controlled by both herbivory and water quality (particularly dissolved nutrients). This study demonstrates that algal communities on settlement tiles are an indicator capable of integrating the impacts of water quality and herbivory over a small spatial scale (kilometres) and short temporal scale (months), where other environmental drivers (current, light, regional variability) are constant.     

Seasonal evolution of the biogeochemical cycle in the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia. Application of a compartmental model

A biogeochemical box model describing the south-west lagoon of New-Caledonia was developed in order to simulate the seasonal cycle of carbon and nitrogen. We used fluxes generated by a 3D hydrodynamic model to simulate horizontal exchanges between boxes and added freshwater influxes as nitrogen sources from the land. Average residence time proved to be less than 11 days for the lagoon as a whole. Standard simulations showed baseline values of chlorophyll a between 0.2 and 0.4 microgram.L-1. Influences of freshwater influxes proved to be significant (increases up to 1 microgram.L-1) only in shallow areas protected from wind exposure and during short periods of heavy rainfall (tropical depressions). Tropical climatic events have reduced impact in space and time and long-term simulations over decades with increased nutrient inputs did not show any significant process of eutrophication. Hydrodynamics seemed to be one of the major control factors with respect to organic matter cycling in the lagoon.     

Hydraulic regime-based zonation scheme of the Curonian Lagoon

The aim of this study was to delineate the spatial zonation of the Curonian Lagoon based on the hydraulic regime and the sediment characteristics. A finite element hydrodynamic model has been applied to the Curonian Lagoon to simulate the circulation patterns for three years. With the help of a transport diffusion model the salinity distribution and the residence times of the Curonian Lagoon have been investigated when forced by river runoff and by wind. The finite element method permitted to follow the details of bathymetry and morphology of the lagoon, describing the areas of special interest with higher resolution. The hydrodynamic model has been validated using in situ water level and salinity measurements. A statistical GIS analysis of the bottom sediment characteristics and the modeled residence times and salinity distribution led to a synthetic hydraulic regime-based zonation scheme. The derived classification scheme is of crucial value for understanding the renewal capacity and biota distribution patterns in the lagoon. Guest editors: A. Razinkovas, Z. R. Gasiūnaitė, J. M. Zaldivar & P. Viaroli European Lagoons and their Watersheds: Function and Biodiversity     

Hydrodynamic characteristics of a fringing coral reef on the east coast of Ishigaki Island,southwest Japan

To investigate the characteristics of currents on a fringing coral reef, a field survey was conducted, mostly under weak wind conditions in summer, on the east coast of Ishigaki Island, southwest Japan, which is encompassed by well-developed fringing reefs. For the same study period, numerical simulations of the current were also performed using a shallow water turbulent flow model with high accuracy reef bathymetry data, which were estimated from high-resolution imagery obtained from satellite remote sensing. The numerical simulation results showed good agreement with the observed data and revealed that the currents have an appreciable magnitude of tide-averaged velocities, even during neap tides, which are governed mostly by wave set-up effects. The results also indicated that temporal variations in velocity and water surface elevation during a tide cycle in the reef exhibit highly asymmetrical patterns; in spring tides especially, the velocities around channels indicate rapid transitions over a short period from peak ebb flow to peak flood flow. The simulations also indicated that a big channel penetrating deeply into the reef attracts the tide-averaged mean flow, even from distant areas of the reef.