Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact Stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy is useful in investigating the lateral organization of Stratum corneum (SC) lipids in full-thickness skin. Based on studies of the thermotropic phase transitions in n-tricosane and in excised human skin, the temperature dependence of the CH2 scissoring bandwidth emerged as a measure of the extent of orthorhombic and hexagonal phases. This dependence provides a simpler measure of the lateral order in lipid assemblies than the common spectroscopic approaches based on difference spectra, curve fitting of the CH2 scissoring region, and the position of the CH2 stretching vibrations. It has the advantages of ease of determination, relatively low variability, and high discriminative power for the type of lateral intermolecular chain packing. A comparison of the lateral organization of the lipids at the SC surface of mammalian skin using the scissoring bandwidth revealed considerable differences between human abdominal skin (containing mostly orthorhombic phases), porcine ear skin (containing mostly hexagonal phases), and reconstructed human epidermis (containing mostly disordered phases). This parameter also correctly described the different effects of propylene glycol (minimally disturbing) and oleic acid (formation of a highly disordered phase) on the SC lipids in excised human skin. The procedure described here is applicable to in vivo studies in the areas of dermatology, transdermal drug delivery, and skin biophysics.     

Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?

The lipid organization in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. SC lipids form two lamellar phases with a predominantly orthorhombic packing. In previous publications a lipid model was presented, referred to as the stratum corneum substitute (SCS), that closely mimics the SC lipid organization and barrier function. Therefore, the SCS serves as a unique tool to relate lipid organization with barrier function. In the present study we examined the effect of the orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition on the barrier function of human SC and SCS. In addition, the SCS was modified by changing the free fatty acid composition, resulting in a hexagonal packing and perturbed lamellar organization. By measuring the permeability to benzoic acid as function of temperature, Arrhenius plots were constructed from which activation energies were calculated. The results suggest that the change from orthorhombic to hexagonal packing in human SC and SCS, does not have an effect on the permeability. However, the modified SCS revealed an increased permeability to benzoic acid, which we related to its perturbed lamellar organization. Thus, a proper lamellar organization is more crucial for a competent barrier function than the presence of an orthorhombic lateral packing.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 °C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 °C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 degrees C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 degrees C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.     

The influence of two azones and sebaceous lipids on the lateral organization of lipids isolated from human stratum corneum

The main problem with topical application of compounds to administer drugs to and regulate drug levels in a human body, is the barrier formed by the intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC). In a search for possibilities to overcome this barrier function, a good understanding of the organization and phase behavior of these lipids is required. SC lipid model studies especially provide a wealth of information with respect to the lipid organization and the importance of certain subclasses of lipids for the structure. Previously, we have shown that electron diffraction (ED) provides detailed information on the lateral lipid packing in both intact SC (G.S.K. Pilgram et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 113 (1999) 403) and SC lipid models (G.S.K. Pilgram et al., J. Lipid Res. 39 (1998) 1669). In the present study, we used ED to examine the influence of two azones and sebaceous lipids on the lateral phase behavior of lipids isolated from human SC. We established that human SC lipids are arranged in an orthorhombic packing pattern. Upon mixing with the two enhancers the orthorhombic packing pattern was still observed; however, an additional fluid phase became more apparent. In mixtures with sebaceous lipids, the presence of the hexagonal lattice increased. These findings provide a basis for the mechanism by which these enhancers and sebaceous lipids interact with human SC lipids.     

Molecular arrangements in sphingolipids. Thermotropic phase behaviour of tetracosanoylphytosphingosine

The phase behaviour of a ceramide species containing C₁₈-phytosphingosine and C₂₄-fatty acid was studied by X-ray diffraction methods, in order to elucidate the packing principles of lipids with unequally long hydrocarbon chains. Six solid phases were observed. In five of them, the ceramide molecules have an extended, V-shaped conformation and pack in single layer arrangements with the sphingosine and fatty acid chains forming separate matrices. Differences between these phases are mainly due to thermotropic changes in packing efficiency and thus in tilt of the hydrocarbon chains. The chain packing undergoes transitions from triclinic (T|) to monoclinic (M|) and hexagonal, and between orthorhombic (O⊥) and hexagonal subcell arrangements, respectively. Only one case was observed, in which the molecules pack with their two chains parallelly stacked in a double layer arrangement in which the long fatty acid tails deeply interdigitate between the two opposite layer halves. In a natural membrane containing different lipids, however, long fatty acid tails probably arrange randomly and contribute to the formation of a liquid hydrocarbon zone in the center of the bilayer.     

Lipid lateral diffusion and membrane heterogeneity

The pulsed field gradient (pfg)-NMR method for measurements of translational diffusion of molecules in macroscopically aligned lipid bilayers is described. This technique is proposed to have an appreciable potential for investigations in the field of lipid and membrane biology. Transport of molecules in the plane of the bilayer can be successfully studied, as well as lateral phase separation of lipids and their dynamics within the bilayer organizations. Lateral diffusion coefficients depend on lipid packing and acyl chain ordering and investigations of order parameters of perdeuterated acyl chains, using ²H NMR quadrupole splittings, are useful complements. In this review we summarize some of our recent achievements obtained on lipid membranes. In particular, bilayers exhibiting two-phase coexistence of liquid disordered (l_d) and liquid ordered (l_o) phases are considered in detail. Methods for obtaining good oriented lipid bilayers, necessary for the pfg-NMR method to be efficiently used, are also briefly described. Among our major results, besides determinations of l_d and l_o phases, belongs the finding that the lateral diffusion is the same for all components, independent of the molecular structure (including cholesterol (CHOL)), if they reside in the same domain or phase in the membrane. Furthermore, quite unexpectedly CHOL seems to partition into the l_dand l_o phases to roughly the same extent, indicating that CHOL has no strong preference for any of these phases, i.e. CHOL seems to have similar interactions with all of the lipids. We propose that the lateral phase separation in bilayers containing one high-T_m and one low-T_m lipid together with CHOL is driven by the increasing difficulty of incorporating an unsaturated or prenyl lipid into the highly ordered bilayer formed by a saturated lipid and CHOL, i.e. the phase transition is entropy driven to keep the disorder of the hydrocarbon chains of the unsaturated lipid.     

Translating chemometric analysis into physiological insights from in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy of the human stratum corneum

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions and acts as a protective barrier for the body against water loss, toxic agents and microorganisms. As most substances permeate the stratum corneum through the lipid regions, lipid organization is considered crucial for the skin barrier function. Here, we investigate the potential of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to describe the composition and organization of the SC. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is finding increasing use in the characterization of skin in biomedical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. In this work, we analyze the spectra using chemometric methods and obtain principal components that correspond to the primary skin constituents: protein (keratin), natural moisturizing factor (NMF), water and lipid contributions in both ordered (orthorhombic) and disordered structural organization. By identifying these important components of the SC, these results highlight the utility of this in vivo, non-invasive, and depth resolved tool at the forefront of skin research.     

Novel lipid mixtures based on synthetic ceramides reproduce the unique stratum corneum lipid organization

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin protect the body from uncontrolled water loss. In human stratum corneum (SC), two crystalline lamellar phases are present, which contain mostly cholesterol, free fatty acids, and nine types of free ceramides. Previous studies have demonstrated that the SC lipid organization can be mimicked with model mixtures based on isolated SC lipids. However, those studies are hampered by low availability and high interindividual variability of the native tissue. To elucidate the role of each lipid class in the formation of a competent skin barrier, the use of synthetic lipids would offer an alternative. The small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction results of the present study show for the first time that synthetic lipid mixtures, containing only three synthetic ceramides, reflect to a high extent the SC lipid organization. Both an appropriately chosen preparation method and lipid composition promote the formation of two characteristic lamellar phases with repeat distances similar to those found in native SC. From all synthetic lipid mixtures examined, equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids equilibrated at 80 degrees C resemble to the highest extent the lamellar and lateral SC lipid organization, both at room and increased temperatures.     

Coexistence of two domains in intercellular lipid matrix of stratum corneum

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is composed of corneocytes and an intercellular lipid matrix. The matrix acts as both the main barrier and also as the pathway of water, drugs, etc. across the SC. In the mammalian SC, the longitudinal arrangement of the lipid molecules, consisting of long and short lamellar structures with repeat distances of about 13 nm and 6 nm, respectively, has been observed by small-angle X-ray diffraction. In the lateral arrangement of the lipid molecules, hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing has been observed by wide-angle X-ray diffraction. From the systematic study of the temperature dependence of simultaneous small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction patterns, we demonstrate that the intercellular lipid matrix forms two domains, which consist at room temperature of a long lamellar structure with hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing and a short lamellar structure with orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing.     

Effect of the ω-acylceramides on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes evaluated by X-ray diffraction and FTIR studies (Part I)

The lipid organization in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is important for the skin barrier function. The stratum corneum lipids are composed of ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). In the present study Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) techniques were utilized to evaluate the effect of three C18 fatty acid esterified ω-acylceramides (CER EOS) on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes. FTIR spectra (scissoring and rocking bands) showed as a function of temperature significant line-shape changes for both components assigned to the orthorhombic phase. Second-derivative analyzes revealed a significant decrease in the interchain coupling strength (Δν values) for the samples formed by CER EOS with the linoleate (CER EOS-L) and oleate (CER EOS-O) moiety around 28.5 °C. However, only a gradual decrease in the Δν values was noticed for the mixture formed with CER EOS with the stearate moiety (CER EOS-S) over the whole temperature range. In the absence of CER EOS the decrease started already at 25.5 °C, demonstrating that CER EOS stabilized the orthorhombic lattice. This stabilization was most pronounced for the CER EOS-S. Spectral fittings allowed to evaluate the orientation changes of the skeletal plane within the orthorhombic unit cell (θ values) for a given temperature range. From the best-fit parameters (peak area values), a decrease in the orthorhombic phase contribution to the scissoring band was also monitored as a function of the temperature. SAXS studies showed the coexistence of two lamellar phases with a periodicity of ∼5.5 nm (short periodicity phase, SPP) and ∼12 nm (LPP) in the presence of the CER EOS-L and CER EOS-O. However, no diffraction peaks associated to the LPP were detected for CER EOS-S. While CER EOS-S most efficiently stabilized the orthorhombic phase, CER EOS-L and CER EOS-O promoted the presence of the LPP. Therefore, the presence of all three CER EOS as observed in human stratum corneum may contribute to a proper skin barrier function.     

Micron-scale assessment of molecular lipid organization in human stratum corneum using microprobe X-ray diffraction

Lipid and protein components of the stratum corneum (SC) are organized in complex supramolecular arrangements. Exploring spatial relations between various possible substructures is important for understanding the barrier function of this uppermost layer of epidermis. Here, we report the first study where micro-focus X-ray scattering was used for assessing fine structural variations of the human skin barrier with micrometer resolution. We found that the scattering profiles were unchanged when scanning in the direction parallel to the SC surface. Furthermore, small-angle scattering profiles did not change as a function of depth in the SC, confirming that the lipid lamellar spacings remained the same throughout the SC. However, the wide-angle scattering data showed that the orthorhombic phase was more abundant in the middle layers of the SC, whereas the hexagonal phase dominated in the surface layers both at the external and the lowest part of the SC; i.e., the lipids were most tightly packed in the middle region of the SC. Taken together, our results demonstrate that microprobe X-ray diffraction provides abundant information about spatial variations of the SC lipid structure and thus may be a promising tool for assessing the effects of topical formulations on the barrier function of skin.     

Lipid domain formation and non-lamellar structures associated with varied lysylphosphatidylglycerol analogue content in a model Staphylococcal plasma membrane

Dipalmitoyl-3-aza-dehydroxy-lysylphosphatidylglycerol (DP3adLPG), is a chemically stable synthetic analogue of the bacterial lipid lysylphosphatidylglycerol (LPG), designed as a substitute for the notoriously labile native lipid in biophysical investigations. In Staphylococcus aureus, LPG is known to play a role in resistance to antibiotics by altering membrane charge properties in response to environmental stress, but little is known about how LPG influences other bilayer physicochemical properties or lateral organisation, through the formation of complexes with lipids such as phosphatidylglycerol (PG). In this study we have investigated the different phases formed by biomimetic mixtures of 3adLPG and PG in different thermotropic states, using neutron diffraction and electron microscopy. In a DPPG/DP3adLPG 70:30 mol% mixture, two distinct lamellar phases were observed below the lipid melting transition: L_β′ 1 and L_β′ 2 with respective periodicities of 82 and 62 Å. Increasing the proportion of DP3adLPG to mimic the effects of environmental stress led to the disappearance of the L_β′ 1 phase and the formation of an inverse hexagonal phase. The compositions of these different phases were identified by investigating the thermotropic properties of the two mixtures, and probing their interaction with the antimicrobial peptide magainin 2 F5W. We propose that the observed polymorphism results from the preferential formation of either triplet PG-3adLPG-PG, or paired PG-3adLPG complexes, dependent upon the mixing proportions of the two lipids. The relevance of these findings to the role native LPG in S. aureus, are discussed with respect to their influence on antibiotic resistance and lateral membrane organisation.     

Brewing of saké from rice and rice-koji defatted by supercritical carbon dioxide treatment

Saké was brewed using rice and rice-koji defatted by extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide (SCCO₂). Extraction with SC:CO₂ at 300 atm and 40°C decreased the total contents of lipids of 90%- and 80%-polished rice to levels comparable to those of 80%- and 70%-polished rice. Addition of 5 wt% ethanol to SCCO₂ further decreased the total lipids. SCCO₂ extraction also removed lipids from rice-koji without decreasing its enzymatic activities. SCCO₂ treatment of rice improved the quality of saké, but SCCO₂ treatment of rice-koji did not.     

Transmembrane Protein (Perfringolysin O) Association with Ordered Membrane Domains (Rafts) Depends Upon the Raft-Associating Properties of Protein-Bound Sterol

Because transmembrane (TM) protein localization, or nonlocalization, in ordered membrane domains (rafts) is a key to understanding membrane domain function, it is important to define the origin of protein-raft interaction. One hypothesis is that a tight noncovalent attachment of TM proteins to lipids that have a strong affinity for ordered domains can be sufficient to induce raft-protein interaction. The sterol-binding protein perfringolysin O (PFO) was used to test this hypothesis. PFO binds both to sterols that tend to localize in ordered domains (e.g., cholesterol), and to those that do not (e.g., coprostanol), but it does not bind to epicholesterol, a raft-promoting 3α-OH sterol. Using a fluorescence resonance energy transfer assay in model membrane vesicles containing coexisting ordered and disordered lipid domains, both TM and non-TM forms of PFO were found to concentrate in ordered domains in vesicles containing high and low-T_m lipids plus cholesterol or 1:1 (mol/mol) cholesterol/epicholesterol, whereas they concentrate in disordered domains in vesicles containing high-T_m and low-T_m lipids plus 1:1 (mol/mol) coprostanol/epicholesterol. Combined with previous studies this behavior indicates that TM protein association with ordered domains is dependent upon both the association of the protein-bound sterol with ordered domains and hydrophobic match between TM segments and rafts.