A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil‐treated skin by in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

In this study, an extended calculation method for the determination of the water profiles in oil‐treated skin is proposed, which is based on the calculation of the ratio between the Raman band intensities of water (3350‐3550 cm^?1) and keratin Amide I at 1650 cm^?1. The proposed method is compared with the conventional method based on the ratio of the Raman band intensities of water (3350‐3550 cm^?1) and keratin at 2930 cm^?1. The conventional method creates artifacts in the depth profiles of the water concentration in oil‐treated skin, showing a lower amount of water in the upper and intermediate layers of the stratum corneum, which is due to the superposition of oil‐ and keratin‐related Raman bands at 2930 cm^?1. The proposed extended method shows no artifacts and has the potential to determine the water depth profiles after topical application of formulations on the skin.     

Ingestion of coffee polyphenols suppresses deterioration of skin barrier function after barrier disruption,concomitant with the modulation of autonomic nervous system activity in healthy subjects

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of consumption of coffee polyphenols (CPPs) on the autonomic nervous system activity and decreased skin barrier function caused by sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) treatment. In this single-blind, placebo-controlled study, ten healthy male subjects consumed either a beverage containing CPPs or a placebo beverage for four weeks. CPPs significantly suppressed the deterioration in skin barrier function and skin moisture content induced by SDS treatment after the third week. Furthermore, in the heart rate variability analysis, CPPs significantly produced an increase in parasympathetic nervous activity, and a decrease in sympathetic nervous activity after the four weeks of beverage consumption. These results suggest that CPPs might influence the regulation of the autonomic nervous system and contribute to the suppressive effect on deterioration of skin barrier function.     

Isolation of polyphenols from spent coffee grounds and silverskin by mild hydrothermal pretreatment

In this study, a new method for isolation of polyphenols (PP) from spent coffee grounds (SCG) and coffee silverskin (CS) is described. The method consisted of a mild hydrothermal pretreatment at 120°C, for 20 min, using a liquid-to-solid ratio of 20 mL/g. PP (determined as gallic acid equivalents, GAE) were the most abundant components in the extracts produced by this method, corresponding to 32.92 mg_GAE/g_SCG and 19.17 mg_GAE/g_CS, among which flavonoids corresponded to 8.29 and 2.73 mg quercetin equivalents/g of SCG and CS, respectively. Both extracts presented antioxidant activity but the results were higher for SCG extract, probably due to the highest content of PP present. Negligible effects (less than 1% solubilization) were caused by the hydrothermal pretreatment on cellulose, hemicellulose, and protein fractions of these materials. Some mineral elements were present in the extracts, with potassium being the most abundant. Hydrothermal pretreatment under mild conditions was demonstrated to be an efficient method to recover antioxidant PP from coffee residues.     

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000–4000 cm⁻¹ region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration – Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.     

Thematic review series: skin lipids. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors and liver X receptors in epidermal biology

The epidermis is a very active site of lipid metabolism, and all peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) and liver X receptor (LXR) isoforms are expressed in the epidermis. Activation of PPARalpha, -beta/delta, or -gamma or LXRs stimulates keratinocyte differentiation. Additionally, activation of these receptors also improves permeability barrier homeostasis by a number of mechanisms, including stimulating epidermal lipid synthesis, increasing lamellar body formation and secretion, and increasing the activity of enzymes required for the extracellular processing of lipids in the stratum corneum, leading to the formation of lamellar membranes that mediate permeability barrier function. The stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation and permeability barrier formation also occurs during fetal development, resulting in accelerated epidermal development. PPAR and LXR activation regulates keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, and studies have shown that these receptors play a role in cutaneous carcinogenesis. Lastly, PPAR and LXR activation is anti-inflammatory, reducing inflammation in animal models of allergic and irritant contact dermatitis. Because of their broad profile of beneficial effects on skin homeostasis, PPAR and LXR have great potential to serve as drug targets for common skin diseases such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and skin cancer.     

The relationship between water loss,mechanical stress,and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as ‘tightness’, and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α‐helices, a decline in α‐sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics. (© 2015 WILEY‐VCH Verlag GmbH &Co. KGaA, Weinheim)     

Effects of a pyroglutamyl pentapeptide isolated from fermented barley extract on atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in hairless mouse

ABSTRACT

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterized by pruritic and eczematous skin lesions. The skin of AD patients is generally in a dried condition. Therefore, it is important for AD patients to manage skin moisturization. In this study, we examined the effects of orally administered fermented barley extract P (FBEP), which is prepared from a supernatant of barley shochu distillery by-product, on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in AD-like lesions induced in hairless mice using 2,4,6-trinitrochlorobenzene. Oral administration of FBEP increased SC hydration and decreased TEWL in the dorsal skin of this mouse model. Further fractionation of FBEP showed that a pyroglutamyl pentapeptide, pEQPFP comprising all -L-form amino acids, is responsible for these activities. These results suggested that this pyroglutamyl pentapeptide may serve as a modality for the treatment of AD.     

Gastrointestinal absorption and metabolism of apple polyphenols ex vivo by the pig intestinal mucosa in the Ussing chamber

Polyphenols contained in food have various positive effects on human health. The absorption and metabolism of polyphenols in the intestinal tract needs to be studied to estimate these effects. The Ussing chamber technique was used to investigate the transport behavior of apple polyphenols through pig small intestinal mucosa, which served as a model for human gastrointestinal mucosa. The identities and concentrations of polyphenols and their metabolites in the half-chambers (luminal and basolateral) within an incubation period of 4 h were determined by HPLC–MS/MS and HPLC–DAD (DAD = diode-array detection). Flux values were also measured. It was found that 5-caffeoylquinic acid and caffeic acid were absorbed and translocated to the basolateral side (1.9 and 3.7%, respectively), but other compounds, including glycosides of phloretin and quercetin, were observed without translocation. A Ussing chamber utilizing pig small intestinal mucosa is a suitable model for assessing the effect of apple polyphenols on mucosal integrity and nutrition absorption across porcine mucosa.     

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305–315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm^?2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.     

3-Methylbutanoyl and 3-methylbut-2-enoyl disaccharides from green coffee beans (Coffea arabica)

The aerial parts of Teucrium oliverianum yielded two neo-clerodane diterpenoids, teucrolin F and G, together with the known teucrolin E. The previously proposed structure for teucrolin E was revised so that it contains a tetrahydrofuran ring instead of an oxetane ring. This was based on analysis of the NMR spectroscopic data of its diacetate, including its NOE spectra. In addition, the structural assignments of the new diterpenoids were based on 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopic studies, mainly 2D NMR experiments, including homonuclear and heteronuclear correlations.     

Commensal microbiota regulates skin barrier function and repair via signaling through the aryl hydrocarbon receptor

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Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.     

深共熔溶剂提取杨树桑黄多酚类物质工艺优化及提取物抗氧化活性研究

桑黄是一类应用广泛的药用真菌,桑黄多酚具有抗氧化、抗炎和降糖作用。本研究中的杨树桑黄属于桑黄中重要且能栽培的一种。本研究采用深共熔溶剂(deep eutectic solvent,DES)从栽培杨树桑黄子实体中提取多酚类化合物,考察了不同提取条件对提取率的影响。采用氯化胆碱与尿素组成的DES体系对多酚进行提取,并进一步采用响应面法对提取条件进行优化,获得最佳提取工艺参数为21 min、80 ℃、料液比1:260 g/mL。在此条件下,多酚的提取率高达(23.17±0.88) mg/g,远高于传统方法(12.45±1.88) mg/g。最优条件提取的多酚显示了很强的DPPH和ABTS的清除能力。由此可见,采用DES法从杨树桑黄子实体中提取酚类化合物比传统方法更有效。     

Propionibacterium acnes related anti-inflammation and skin hydration activities of madecassoside,a pentacyclic triterpene saponin from Centella asiatica

Madecassoside is a major pentacyclic triterpene saponin from Centella asiatica with multiple pharmaceutical activities. In this study, we focused on its Propionibacterium acnes related anti-inflammation and skin hydration activities, both of which play important roles in skin homeostasis and barrier function. Madecassoside significantly inhibited the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1β, TLR2 and nuclear translocation of NF-κB in P. acnes stimulated THP-1 human monocytic cells. In addition, madecasssoside exhibited significant effects on enhancement of skin hydration through increasing the key moisturizing contributors of aquaporin-3, loricrin and involucrin in HaCaT keratinocytes as well as hyaluronan (HA) secretion in human dermal fibroblasts. The upregulation of HA synthases (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3) and inhibition to ROS formation accounted for the increment of HA content. Together, the in vitro study implied the potential medical and cosmetic application of madecassoside in skin protection.     

黑眶蟾蜍皮肤抗菌肽的制备及其性质

收集黑眶蟾蜍皮肤分泌物,经Sephadex G-25去除大分子蛋白后,利用微量测定法进行抗菌活性分析。结果发现:黑眶蟾蜍皮肤分泌物对革兰氏阳性菌——金黄色葡萄球菌、枯草芽孢杆菌的抑制作用较强,对革兰氏阴性菌中的嗜水气单细胞菌也表现出较强的抑制作用,对溶藻弧菌、副溶血弧菌、河流弧菌、大肠杆菌的抑制相对较弱。利用胰蛋白酶对黑眶蟾蜍皮肤抗菌肽水解后,其抗菌活性消失。将黑眶蟾蜍皮肤抗菌肽在37~95℃和pH 2.5~5.0下保温,发现其抗菌活性成分对热及酸耐受性较强。黑眶蟾蜍皮肤分泌物在低浓度无溶血活性。     

Role of cholesterol sulfate in epidermal structure and function: Lessons from X-linked ichthyosis

X-linked ichthyosis is a relatively common syndromic form of ichthyosis most often due to deletions in the gene encoding the microsomal enzyme, steroid sulfatase, located on the short area of the X chromosome. Syndromic features are mild or unapparent unless contiguous genes are affected. In normal epidermis, cholesterol sulfate is generated by cholesterol sulfotransferase (SULT2B1b), but desulfated in the outer epidermis, together forming a ‘cholesterol sulfate cycle’ that potently regulates epidermal differentiation, barrier function and desquamation. In XLI, cholesterol sulfate levels my exceed 10% of total lipid mass (≈ 1% of total weight). Multiple cellular and biochemical processes contribute to the pathogenesis of the barrier abnormality and scaling phenotype in XLI. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.     

Comparative assessment of solvents and lignocellulolytic enzymes affiliated extraction of polyphenols from the various lignocellulosic agro-residues: identification and their antioxidant properties

Abstract

The present investigation was aimed to utilize lignocellulosic agro-residues and compare the extraction of polyphenols utilizing lignocellulolytic enzymes secreted by Sphingobacterium sp. ksn and with that of the solvents (ethanol, methanol) affiliated methods. The maximum amount of polyphenols, flavonoids and tannins were 94.29, 11.36, and 79.21?g 100?g^?1 respectively, found in the extracts obtained by enzymes affiliated extraction of coffee cherry husk (CCH). The phenolics namely, gallic acid, caffeic acid, coumaric acid, 1-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde were commonly found whereas syringic acid, quercetin, kaempferol, and epicatechin were hardly found in the extracts of agro-residues. The extracts of CCH shown maximum antioxidant properties for DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP. The present study reports that the affiliation of enzymes for the extraction of polyphenols from agro-residues is more efficient than that of the solvents affiliation and CCH as the good source of polyphenols.     

Supplemental feeding of phospholipid-enriched alkyl phospholipid from krill relieves spontaneous atopic dermatitis and strengthens skin intercellular lipid barriers in NC/Nga mice

Plasmalogen (Pls) is a glycerophospholipid derived from alkyl phospholipid (Alk) with antioxidant functions in vivo. The present study investigated the effects of ether phospholipids, such as Pls and Alk, on intercellular lipid barriers in the skin of NC/Nga mice, a model of atopic dermatitis (AD). NC/Nga mice fed Alk showed increased plasma levels of Alk and Pls. The AD-related changes in ceramide composition in the skin were abrogated by oral administration of Alk. Moreover, Alk suppressed skin inflammation in AD mice. These results indicate that Alk partially fortifies the stratum corneum lipid barrier and may be an effective treatment for AD.

Abbreviations: Pls: plasmalogen; PlsCho: choline plasmalogen; PlsEtn: ethanolamine plasmalogen; Alk: alkyl phospholipid; TJ: tight junction; FA: fatty acid; AD: atopic dermatitis; SO: soybean oil; FO: fish oil; DHA: docosahexaenoic acid; EPA: eicosapentaenoic acid; TG: triglyceride; PL: phospholipid; RF: retention factor; AlkCho: choline-type alkyl phospholipid; AlkEtn: ethanolamine-type alkyl phospholipid; LC-MS/MS: liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry; FAR1: fatty acyl-coenzyme (Co)A reductase 1     

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.     

Impact of legume seed extracts on degradation and functional properties of gelatin from unicorn leatherjacket skin

Trypsin inhibitor was extracted from the seed flour of soybean (SB; Glycine max), mung bean (MB; Vigna radiata), cowpea bean (CP; Vigna unguiculata) and adzuki bean (AB; Vigna angularis) using 0.15 M NaCl, followed by heat precipitation at 70 °C. The extract from SB showed the highest specific trypsin inhibitory activity, followed by those from MB, CP and AB, respectively. Based on inhibitory activity staining, molecular weights (MWs) of trypsin inhibitor from SB, MB, CP and AB were 20.1, 14, 10 and 13 kDa, respectively. The SB extract powder (SBEP) containing trypsin inhibitor in the range of 10–100 TIU/g effectively prevented the degradation of γ-, β- and α-chains of collagenolytic proteins of leatherjacket skin subjected to incubation at 50 °C for 30 min. The impact of SBEP on the extraction yield, physical and functional properties of gelatin from leatherjacket skin was investigated. The gelatin extracted in the presence of SBEP contained α₁ and α₂ chains as the predominant components with some degradation peptides. FTIR spectra indicated the significant loss of molecular order of triple helix and higher degradation was found in gelatin extracted in the absence of SBEP. Gelatin extracted in the presence of SBEP had the higher gel strength (232.8–268.5 g) than that extracted in the absence of SBEP (90.4 g). Higher foam stability (FS) but lower emulsion stability index (ESI) was observed in the former. Therefore, the addition of SBEP effectively prevented the degradation of gelatin from the skin of unicorn leatherjacket, thereby yielding the gelatin with improved gel strength and foam stability.