Determination of molecular conformation and permeation in skin via IR spectroscopy, microscopy, and imaging

Skin tissue, in addition to its specific use in dermal research, provides an excellent model for developing the techniques of vibrational microscopy and imaging for biomedical applications. In addition to permitting characterization of various regions of skin, the relative paucity of major biological constituents in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin), permits us to image, with microscopic resolution, conformational alterations and concentration variations in both the lipid and protein components. Thus we are able to monitor the effects of exogenous materials such as models for drug delivery agents (liposomes) and permeation enhancers (DMSO) on stratum corneum lipid organization and protein structure. In addition, we are able to monitor protein conformational changes in single corneocytes. The current article demonstrates these procedures, ranging from direct univariate measures of lipid chain conformational disorder, to factor analysis which permits us to image conformational differences between liposomes that have permeated through the stratum corneum from those which have remained on the surface in a reservoir outside the skin.     

Infrared spectroscopic study of stratum corneum model membranes prepared from human ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid domains. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are cholesterol, ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids forming two crystalline lamellar phases. However, only limited information is available on whether the various lipid classes participate in the same crystalline lattices or if separate domains are formed within the lipid lamellae. In this article infrared spectroscopic studies are reported of hydrated mixtures prepared from cholesterol, human CER, and free fatty acids. Evaluation of the methylene stretching vibrations revealed a conformational disordering starting at approximately 60 degrees C for all mixtures. Examination of the rotational ordering (scissoring and rocking vibrations) of mixtures prepared from equimolar cholesterol and CER with a variation in the level of free fatty acids showed that at lower free fatty acid content orthorhombic and hexagonal domains coexist in the lipid lamellae. Increasing the fatty acid level to an equimolar cholesterol/CER/fatty acid mixture reveals the dominant presence of an orthorhombic lattice, confirming x-ray diffraction studies. Replacing the protonated free fatty acid chains by their perdeuterated counterparts demonstrates that free fatty acids and CER participate in the same orthorhombic lattice up to a level of slightly less than 1:1:0.75 cholesterol/CER/free fatty acids molar ratio but that free fatty acids also form separate domains within the lipid lamellae at equimolar ratios at room temperature. However, no evidence for this has been observed at 32 degrees C. Extrapolating these findings to the situation in stratum corneum led us conclude that in stratum corneum, fatty acids and CER participate in the orthorhombic lattice at 32 degrees C, the skin temperature.     

The Lipid Organisation of the Skin Barrier: Liquid and Crystalline Domains Coexist in Lamellar Phases

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.     

Local temperature rises influence in vivo electroporation pore development: a numerical stratum corneum lipid phase transition model

Electroporation is an approach used to enhance transdermal transport of large molecules in which the skin is exposed to a series of electric pulses. Electroporation temporarily destabilizes the structure of the outer skin layer, the stratum corneum, by creating microscopic pores through which agents, ordinarily unable to pass into the skin, are able to pass through this outer barrier. Long duration electroporation pulses can cause localized temperature rises, which result in thermotropic phase transitions within the lipid bilayer matrix of the stratum corneum. This paper focuses on electroporation pore development resulting from localized Joule heating. This study presents a theoretical model of electroporation, which incorporates stratum corneum lipid melting with electrical and thermal energy equations. A transient finite volume model is developed representing electroporation of in vivo human skin, in which stratum corneum lipid phase transitions are modeled as a series of melting processes. The results confirm that applied voltage to the skin results in high current densities within the less resistive regions of the stratum corneum. The model captures highly localized Joule heating within the stratum corneum and subsequent temperature rises, which propagate radially outward. Electroporation pore development resulting from the decrease in resistance associated with lipid melting is captured by the lipid phase transition model. As the effective pore radius grows, current density and subsequent Joule heating values decrease.     

The stratum corneum lipid thermotropic phase behavior.

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of mammalian skin, is considered the least permeable skin layer to the diffusion of water and other solutes. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid multilayer domain is the diffusional pathway for most lipophilic solutes. Fluidization of the lipid multilayers is believed to result in the loss of barrier properties of the stratum corneum. Current investigations address the lipid thermotropic phase behavior in terms of lipid alkyl chain packing, mobility and conformational order as measured by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. A solid-solid phase transition is observed with increased alkyl chain mobility followed by a gel to liquid-crystalline phase transition near 65 degrees C. These results further elucidate the role of lipid fluidity that may contribute to the transport properties of the stratum corneum.     

Glycoproteins modulate adhesion in terminally differentiated keratinocytes

Summary The stratum corneum can be dissociated into single squames by homogenization in ether. We have reaggregated the free corneocytes into a multilayered lamellar structure resembling an intact stratum corneum. The reconstituted stratum corneum reacts with fluorescein-conjugated lectins, unlike the intact tissue. We infer that the lack of binding in the intact tissue is due to masking of saccharide sites by lipids (which are extracted by the ether). In an extension of the procedure, the ether is removed and replaced by acetone. This system permits us to modulate corneocyte reaggregation by the addition of appropriate agents. We have used this system to corroborate our hypothesis that a 40 kD cell-surface glycoprotein (an endogenous lectin specific for amino sugars), which we have isolated from the stratum corneum, is instrumental in adhesion of corneocytes by cross-linking with amino sugar sites on adjacent cells. The reaggregation is inhibited by the antibody to the 40 kD glycoprotein. It is also inhibited by either the addition of amino sugars which bind to the endogenous lectin, or the addition of exogenous lectins specific for amino sugars which bind to the ligand.     

Ethanol effects on the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior.

The stratum corneum is considered to be the diffusional barrier of mammalian skin for water and most solutes. The intercellular lipid multilayer domains of the stratum corneum are believed to be the diffusional pathway for most lipophilic solutes. Fluidization of the lipid multilayers in the presence of ethanol is frequently conceived to result in enhanced permeation. Current investigations address the effect of ethanol on the phase behavior in terms of stratum corneum lipid alkyl chain packing, mobility and conformational order as measured by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Phospholipid multilamellar vesicles were also studied as model systems. There appeared to be no effect of ethanol on either the solid-solid phase transition or the gel phase interchain coupling of the stratum corneum lipids. However, there was a reduction in the mobility of the alkyl chains in the presence of ethanol. Possible mechanistic relationships between the current FTIR spectroscopic results with available literature data of ethanol induced lipophilic solute penetration enhancement through the skin are discussed.     

Role of ceramide structure and its microenvironment on the conformational order of model stratum corneum lipids mixtures: an approach by FTIR spectroscopy

The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of ceramide head group architecture and free fatty acid (another main class of stratum corneum lipids) or protein (keratin), on the lamellar organization of the ceramide auto-associated in model films mimicking lipid organization within the stratum corneum. FTIR spectroscopy is a powerful technique for investigating the structure of such systems. This technique has already been used to characterize phase transitions of the SC and of related model systems. As temperature is known to modify the conformational order of lipids, we used it as a variable parameter to monitor the differences in the conformational stability of ceramides. Our study included four ceramides: ceramide 2, 3, 5 and 6 which differ by their head group architecture. Two kinds of lipid-lipid interactions were studied: non-polar and polar. We noted some structural factors which participated to the organizational behavior: insaturation of alkyl chain, alpha-hydroxyl on fatty acid moiety and sphingosine or phytosphingosine head group. There is a direct interaction of palmitic acid on alkyl chains organization and a weak interaction with polar head group in presence of keratin, both provoking a destabilization of the ceramidic orthorhombic organization.     

Using the method of homogenization to calculate the effective diffusivity of the stratum corneum with permeable corneocytes

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin, which acts as a barrier membrane against the penetration of molecules into and out of the body. It has a biphasic structure consisting of keratinized cells (corneocytes) that are embedded in a lipid matrix. The macroscopic transport properties of the stratum corneum are functions of its microstructure and the transport properties of the corneocytes and the lipid matrix, and are of considerable interest in the context of transdermal drug delivery and quantifying exposure to toxins, as well as for determining the relation of skin disorders to disruption of the stratum corneum barrier. Due to the complexity of the tissue and the difference in length scales involved in its microstructure, a direct analysis of the mass transport properties of the stratum corneum is not feasible. In this study, we undertake an approach where the macroscopic diffusion tensor of the stratum corneum is obtained through homogenization using the method of asymptotic expansions. The biphasic structure of the stratum corneum is fully accounted for by allowing the corneocytes to be permeable and considering the partitioning between the corneocytes and the lipid phases. By systematically exploring the effect of permeable corneocytes on the macroscopic transport properties of the stratum corneum, we show that solute properties such as lipophilicity and relative permeabilities in the two phases have large effects on its transdermal diffusion behavior.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.     

Structure of the skin barrier and its modulation by vesicular formulations

The natural function of the skin is to protect the body from unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. Since the lipids regions in the stratum corneum form the only continuous structure, substances applied onto the skin always have to pass these regions. For this reason the organization in the lipid domains is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid phase behavior is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum crystalline phases are predominantly present, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Both the crystalline nature and the presence of a 13 nm lamellar phase are considered to be crucial for the skin barrier function. Since it is impossible to selectively extract individual lipid classes from the stratum corneum, the lipid organization has been studied in vitro using isolated lipid mixtures. These studies revealed that mixtures prepared with isolated stratum corneum lipids mimic to a high extent stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. This indicates that proteins do not play an important role in the stratum corneum lipid phase behavior. Furthermore, it was noticed that mixtures prepared only with ceramides and cholesterol already form the 13 nm lamellar phase. In the presence of free fatty acids the lattice density of the structure increases. In stratum corneum the ceramide fraction consists of various ceramide subclasses and the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase is also affected by the ceramide composition. Particularly the presence of ceramide 1 is crucial. Based on these findings a molecular model has recently been proposed for the organization of the 13 nm lamellar phase, referred to as "the sandwich model", in which crystalline and liquid domains coexist. The major problem for topical drug delivery is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Therefore, several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily and locally. One of the approaches is the application of drugs in formulations containing vesicles. In order to unravel the mechanisms involved in increasing the drug transport across the skin, information on the effect of vesicles on drug permeation rate, the permeation pathway and perturbations of the skin ultrastructure is of importance. In the second part of this paper the possible interactions between vesicles and skin are described, focusing on differences between the effects of gel-state vesicles, liquid-state vesicles and elastic vesicles.     

Effect of epidermal acylglucosylceramides and acylceramides on the morphology of liposomes prepared from stratum corneum lipids

Epidermal acylglucosylceramides (AGC) and acylceramides (AC) cause aggregation and stacking of stratum corneum lipid liposomes formed from a lipid mixture containing epidermal ceramides (40%), cholesterol (25%), palmitic acid (25%), and cholesteryl sulfate (10%). This demonstrates the ability of these sphingolipids to hold adjacent bilayers in close apposition and their roles in the assembly of lamellar structures in the epidermis. However, AGC and AC in their hydrogenated form also caused aggregation and stacking of the stratum corneum lipid liposomes. This throws into doubt the proposed structural specificity of linoleate in the function of AGC and AC as molecular rivets in the assembly of the epidermal lamellar granules and the stratum corneum intercellular lamellae, respectively.     

Biological and physical factors influencing the successful engraftment of a cultured human skin substitute

Skin tissue may be engineered in a variety of ways. Our cultured skin substitute (Graftskin, living skin equivalent or G-LSE), Apligraftrade mark, is an organotypic culture of skin, containing both a "dermis" and "epidermis." The epidermis is an important functional component of skin, responsible for biologic wound closure. The epidermis possesses a stratum corneum which develops with time in culture. The stratum corneum provides barrier function properties and gives the LSE improved strength and handling characteristics. Clinical experience indicated that the stratum corneum might play an important role in improving the clinical utility of the LSE. Handling and physical characteristics improved with time in culture. We examined the LSE at different stages of epidermal maturation for barrier function and ability to persist as a graft. LSE grafted onto athymic mice before significant development of barrier function did not withstand bandage removal at 7 days postgraft. LSE grafted after barrier function had been established in vitro were able to withstand bandage removal at day 7. Corneum lipid composition and structure are critical components for barrier function. Media modifications were used in an attempt to improve the fatty acid composition of the stratum corneum. The barrier developed more rapidly and was improved in a serum-free, lipid-supplemented condition. Lipid lamellar structure was improved with 10% of the stratum corneum exhibiting broad-narrow-broad lipid lamellar arrangements similar to human skin. Fatty acid metabolism was not appreciably altered. Barrier function in vitro was 4- to 10-fold more permeable than human skin. Epidermal differentiation does not compromise engraftment or the wound healing ability of the epidermis. The stratum corneum provides features beneficial for engraftment and clinical use. (c) 1996 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Elastic Vesicles as a Tool for Dermal and Transdermal Delivery

The main problem in delivery of drugs across the skin is the barrier function of the skin, which is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid layers, the so-called lipid lamellae. When applying drugs onto the skin, the major penetration pathway is the tortuous intercellular route along the lipid lamellae. In order to increase the number of drugs administered via the transdermal route, novel drug delivery systems have to be designed. Among these systems are iontophoresis, electroporation, microneedles, and vesicular systems.     

Elastic vesicles as a tool for dermal and transdermal delivery

The main problem in delivery of drugs across the skin is the barrier function of the skin, which is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid layers, the so-called lipid lamellae. When applying drugs onto the skin, the major penetration pathway is the tortuous intercellular route along the lipid lamellae. In order to increase the number of drugs administered via the transdermal route, novel drug delivery systems have to be designed. Among these systems are iontophoresis, electroporation, microneedles, and vesicular systems.     

Direct visualization of lipid domains in human skin stratum corneum's lipid membranes: effect of pH and temperature

The main function of skin is to serve as a physical barrier between the body and the environment. This barrier capacity is in turn a function of the physical state and structural organization of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. This lipid matrix is essentially composed of very long chain saturated ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Three unsolved key questions are i), whether the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix is constituted by a single gel phase or by coexisting crystalline (solid) domains; ii), whether a separate liquid crystalline phase is present; and iii), whether pH has a direct effect on the lipid matrix phase behavior. In this work the lateral structure of membranes composed of lipids extracted from human skin stratum corneum was studied in a broad temperature range (10 degrees C-90 degrees C) using different techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, fluorescence spectroscopy, and two-photon excitation and laser scanning confocal fluorescence microscopy. Here we show that hydrated bilayers of human skin stratum corneum lipids express a giant sponge-like morphology with dimensions corresponding to the global three-dimensional morphology of the stratum corneum extracellular space. These structures can be directly visualized using the aforementioned fluorescence microscopy techniques. At skin physiological temperatures (28 degrees C-32 degrees C), the phase state of these hydrated bilayers correspond microscopically (radial resolution limit 300 nm) to a single gel phase at pH 7, coexistence of different gel phases between pH 5 and 6, and no fluid phase at any pH. This observation suggests that the local pH in the stratum corneum may control the physical properties of the extracellular lipid matrix by regulating membrane lateral structure and stability.     

Translating chemometric analysis into physiological insights from in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy of the human stratum corneum

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions and acts as a protective barrier for the body against water loss, toxic agents and microorganisms. As most substances permeate the stratum corneum through the lipid regions, lipid organization is considered crucial for the skin barrier function. Here, we investigate the potential of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to describe the composition and organization of the SC. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is finding increasing use in the characterization of skin in biomedical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. In this work, we analyze the spectra using chemometric methods and obtain principal components that correspond to the primary skin constituents: protein (keratin), natural moisturizing factor (NMF), water and lipid contributions in both ordered (orthorhombic) and disordered structural organization. By identifying these important components of the SC, these results highlight the utility of this in vivo, non-invasive, and depth resolved tool at the forefront of skin research.     

Human stratum corneum lipid organization as observed by atomic force microscopy on Langmuir-Blodgett films

The barrier function of skin ultimately depends on the physical state and structural organisation of the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. Ceramides, cholesterol and a broad distribution of saturated long-chain free fatty acids dominate the stratum corneum lipid composition. Additionally, smaller amounts of cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate may be present. A key feature determining skin barrier capacity is thought to be whether or not different lipid domains coexist laterally in the stratum corneum extracellular lipid matrix. In this study, the overall tendency for lipid domain formation in different mixtures of extracted human stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate and cholesteryl oleate were studied using atomic force microscopy (AFM) on Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) films on mica. It is shown that the saturated long-chain free fatty acid distribution of human stratum corneum prevents hydrocarbon chain segregation. Further, LB-films of human stratum corneum ceramides express a pattern of connected elongated domains with a granular domain interface. The dominating effect of both cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate is that of increased ceramide domain dispersion. This effect is counteracted by the presence of free fatty acids, which preferentially mix with ceramides and not with cholesterol. Cholesteryl oleate does not mix with other skin lipid components, supporting the hypothesis of an extra-endogenous origin. In the system composed of endogenous human ceramides and cholesterol plus 15 wt% stratum corneum distributed free fatty acids, i.e., the system mimicking most closely the lipid composition of the stratum corneum extracellular space, LB-films on mica express lateral domain formation.     

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 degrees C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 degrees C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.