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1.
A vertically integrated numerical model of wind-driven circulation at One Tree Reef is presented. The model is the numerical model SURGE developed originally to study tropical cyclone surge. Current data collected in the reef lagoon and over the reef flats is used to test the model's applicability. The reef topography has been modelled explicitly, rather than using an assumed reef shape, with a grid spacing of 150 m. The model corresponds well to the measured current behaviour. The greatest drawback to use of the model is that, at low tide, currents reverse with depth due to lagoon enclosure and a depth integrated model cannot produce water velocity depth profiles. The model can be used to predict current behaviour in strong wind conditions, such as during a cyclone, and to estimate net flows into and out of the lagoon.  相似文献   

2.
To investigate the characteristics of currents on a fringing coral reef, a field survey was conducted, mostly under weak wind conditions in summer, on the east coast of Ishigaki Island, southwest Japan, which is encompassed by well-developed fringing reefs. For the same study period, numerical simulations of the current were also performed using a shallow water turbulent flow model with high accuracy reef bathymetry data, which were estimated from high-resolution imagery obtained from satellite remote sensing. The numerical simulation results showed good agreement with the observed data and revealed that the currents have an appreciable magnitude of tide-averaged velocities, even during neap tides, which are governed mostly by wave set-up effects. The results also indicated that temporal variations in velocity and water surface elevation during a tide cycle in the reef exhibit highly asymmetrical patterns; in spring tides especially, the velocities around channels indicate rapid transitions over a short period from peak ebb flow to peak flood flow. The simulations also indicated that a big channel penetrating deeply into the reef attracts the tide-averaged mean flow, even from distant areas of the reef.  相似文献   

3.
Wave-current interactions on a shallow reef (Nicaragua,Central America)   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
Measurements of wave height and currents associated with normal trade-wind conditions have been made on a linear reef that parallels the northern and northeastern coast of Great Corn Island, eastern shelf of Nicaragua, Central America. Analyses indicate that waves breaking over the reef crest generate lagoonward flow normal to the reef. Average reef-normal flow was in the range of 10 to 20 cm/s; however, individual wave surges reached values of up to 180 cm/s. The strength of the over-the-reef flow is modulated by the tide. Lagoon currents are weak (2–5 cm/s) and change direction with the tide as the lagoon fills and drains. Long-period oscillations in water level (30 s to 20 min) and in the current were observed, and may be important in transporting fine-grained sediments out of the reef-lagoon system. Strong, short-duration surge currents ( <5 s) transport coarse sediment from the breaker zone to the seaward margin of the backreef lagoon.  相似文献   

4.
 Detailed measurements of water levels, and tide and wave-induced currents were undertaken to examine physical processes and their relationship with morphology in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, a medium sized atoll in the Indian Ocean. Results indicate that the atoll structure controls both lagoon circulation and the spatial pattern of energy distribution. Lagoon circulation is tide dominated (currents 16–31 cms-1) with flushing (2–5 days) of the lagoon occurring through the deep leeward passages. Wave- and tide-driven unidirectional flows through shallow passages (26–65 cms-1) are important mechanisms of ocean to lagoon water exchange and contribute up to 24% of the lagoon neap tide prism. Reef flats are dominated by wave energy (maximum velocity 140 cms-1, east) with measurements of the attenuation of wave energy between reef flats and shallow lagoon (80–90%) conforming to measurements from fringing and barrier reefs. Spectral analysis shows that the characteristics of wave energy vary on different sectors of the atoll, with gravity wave energy dominating the east, and infragravity wave energy dominating the southern reef flat and passages. Wave setup at the reef crest is considered to be responsible for an identified 0.1 m higher water level in the southern as opposed to eastern and northern atoll, which promotes higher reef flat growth. Transmission of gravity waves across reef flats requires threshold water depths of 0.65 (east) and 0.70 m (south). The higher southern reef is an effective filter of gravity wave energy for most tidal elevations. Differences in the type and magnitude of physical processes within the atoll are discussed with relation to geomorphic development on Cocos. Accepted: 28 February 1998  相似文献   

5.

Water renewal exerts a preponderant role in eutrophication, yet few hydrodynamic indicators exist for performing quick and cost-effective assessments of ecosystem vulnerability. Using field data, we closed the water budget of a shallow coral reef lagoon recently exposed to high levels of nutrient loading that triggered green tides. Then, we tested the relevance of modelling flushing-time, a proxy of water renewal, from oceanic and atmospheric open access data. Water inflows in the lagoon were mainly driven by waves breaking on exposed reefs, but tide and wind also influenced water renewal during low-wave periods. Modelling flushing-time as a function of the wave features (significant wave height, direction, and period), tide, and wind direction provided the most convincing model, with greater contribution of wave height, and adequately reproduced observations for an independent dataset. Using this model to hindcast flushing-time over the period 2000–2019 highlighted that green tides that recently struck the area in January 2018 and June 2019 followed periods of slow water renewal, which therefore contributed to amplify the blooms. The analysis also demonstrated that renewal events even slower than those recorded in 2018–2019 are frequent in this lagoon, which highlights the high vulnerability of this UNESCO World Heritage Site to other pulses of nutrient loading. Since the methodology developed in this study can be easily applied to many other coastal barrier and fringing reefs, it offers a promising perspective for quick and cost-effective assessments of coral reef vulnerability to eutrophication and other ecosystem crises magnified by slow water renewal.

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6.
For a period of 22 months beginning in September 2003, an array of four current profilers were deployed on the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon, a microtidal Caribbean environment characterised by the influence of the Yucatan Current (YC) and a Trade Wind regime. The dataset includes water currents, bottom pressure, and surface waves complemented with coastal meteorological data and surface currents from an acoustic Doppler current profiler moored 12 km offshore. Normal circulation conditions consisted of a surface wave-induced flow entering the lagoon over a shallow reef flat and strong flows exiting through northern and southern channels. This wave induced flow was modulated by a low-frequency sea level change related to a geostrophic response to the YC variability offshore, with tidal and direct wind forcing playing additional minor roles. Under extended summer low-wave height conditions, together with a decrease in sea level from the intensification of the offshore current, the exchange of the lagoon with the adjacent ocean was drastically reduced. Under normal wave conditions (H S = 0.8 ± 0.4 m, mean ± SD), water residence time was on average 3 h, whereas during Hurricane Ivan’s extreme swell (H S = 6 m) it decreased to 0.35 h.  相似文献   

7.

Most of the atolls found worldwide are under microtidal regimes, and their circulation mechanisms are widely documented and well known. Here, we describe the flushing mechanisms of a small-sized mesotidal atoll, based on water-level, wave and current data obtained during two different periods (total of 60 d). Rocas is the only atoll in the South Atlantic Ocean and is built primarily of coralline algae. Two reef passages connect the atoll lagoon to the ocean. Synchronous current profilers were deployed at the two reef passages, one inside and one outside the atoll, to characterize the influence of tides and waves on the circulation. Results showed that wind waves drove a setup on the exposed side of the atoll and that currents were predominately downwind, causing outflow at both reef passages. Waves breaking on the windward side supplied water to the atoll causing the lagoon water level to rise above ocean water level, driving the outflow. However, unlike microtidal atolls, at Rocas Atoll the water level drops significantly below the reef rim during low tides. This causes the reef rim to act as a barrier to water pumping into the lagoon by waves, resulting in periodic activation of the wave pumping mechanism throughout a tidal cycle. As result, inflow occurs in the wider passage during 27% of each tidal cycle, starting at low tides and reversing direction during mid-flood tide when the water level exceeded approximately 1.6 m (while overtopping the atoll’s rim). Our findings show that tides play a direct role in driving circulation on a mesotidal atoll, not only by modulating wave setup but also by determining the duration of wave pumping into the lagoon.

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8.
Henderson Island, in the Pitcairn Group, preserves a Pleistocene atoll physiography with the rim of the raised reef structure, supporting spur and groove topography, enclosing a central lagoon. Excellent preservation of coral reef communities occurs along the ancient atoll rim and within the central lagoon. The previously interpreted depositional nature of the fossil atoll structure is herein corroborated with geomorphologic and stratigraphic evidence from previously un-visited portions of the island. Stratigraphic and lateral facies relationships indicate a physiographic zonation which includes spur and grooves, outer reef flat, lagoon margin, and an interior lagoon with patch reefs. The in situ occurrence and zonation of reef coral communities around the periphery and within the interior of the island appear to reflect the original physiography of the atoll lagoon, with the most pronounced reef development on the SE side of the original atoll. Stratigraphic units which comprise the raised atoll lagoon structure represent different time intervals, so the atoll lagoon structure formed during various sea level fluctuations. The modern atolls of the Pitcairn Group, Oeno and Ducie, provide some comparisons (similarities and differences) with the fossil lagoon on top of Henderson Island.  相似文献   

9.
This paper presents a simple model of wave-driven flow through a coral reef that is characterized by a shallow, wide reef crest and a deeper, but frictional lagoon. Assuming that the dominant momentum balances are between quadratic drag and barotropic pressure gradients, along-lagoon and cross-reef flows are coupled through continuity and through a setup of the water surface in the lagoon that varies in the along-reef direction. Scaling of the governing equations shows that this flow is governed by a single parameter P that expresses the competing effects of cross-reef and along-lagoon drag. When P < 1, the cross-reef flow is nearly constant, whereas when P > 1, only that portion of the reef closest to the pass through the reef crest through which fluid exists the lagoon supports cross-reef flows.  相似文献   

10.
Using a hierarchical multi-scale survey design, we examined the spatial patterns of reef fish communities and tested ecological models concerning the relative importance of reef geomorphology and anthropogenic pressure possibly driving community structure. Canonical redundancy analysis was used as a form of multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) to asses differences in reef fish community composition at two spatial scales: broad (105 m) and intermediate (104 m). Surveys were conducted on the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula (Mexican Caribbean fringing reef), including regions and reefs which differed in geomophologic structure and human use. Seven hundred and fourteen line transects were distributed among 13 reef localities belonging to different regions established a priori. Transects covered four types of reef habitat: lagoon, front, slope, and terrace. Tests of significance were based on permutation procedures. Significant differences among regions were found for the lagoon, slope, and terrace fish communities, consistent with the geomorphologic model, but it is only in the reef lagoon that they were consistent with the anthropogenic model, which may indicate an effect of coastal human activities. Significant differences among reefs within regions were observed, which could be associated with local environmental gradients. Canonical nested MANOVA was an appropriate method for testing ecological hypotheses about the functioning of complex biological systems. The use of a surveying strategy that explicitly incorporated the spatial structure represents an important contribution of this paper to coral reef fish ecology.  相似文献   

11.
This paper investigates the potential of remotely sensed data to map turbidity in a coral reef lagoon and to calibrate a numerical model of fine suspended-sediment transport. Simultaneous measurements of turbidity depth-profile and above-water spectral reflectance integrated according Landsat 7 ETM+ band 2 spectral sensitivity provide a linear regression relationship for the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia (r2=0.95, n=40). This relationship is applied to an empirically atmospherically corrected Landsat ETM+ image of the lagoon acquired on October 23, 2002. A comparison between Landsat estimates of turbidity and concurrent measurements at 14 stations indicates that the mean standard error in the satellite-estimated turbidity is 17.5%. The numerical model introduced in Douillet et al. (2001) is used to simulate the transport of fine suspended sediments in the lagoon in October 2002. A calibration of the erosion rate coefficient required by the model is proposed using in situ turbidity profiles and the remotely sensed turbidity field. In situ data are used to tune locally the erosion rate coefficient, while satellite data are used to determine its spatial zonation. We discuss necessary improvements in coupled studies of fine-sediment transport in coastal zones, namely relationships between turbidity and sediment concentration, integration of wave influence in the model, and correction of bottom reflection in satellite data processing.  相似文献   

12.
 Current records from three surveys at Bora Bay, Miyako Island, all showed strong unidirectional flows. Ocean water entered the lagoon over the shallower western half of the reef flat and exited the lagoon through a channel on the eastern side. Fourier transform of one of the survey data sets showed that this unidirectional flow is modulated on a cycle with a period half as long as the dominant M2 tidal cycle. The prominent features of the observed time-series current profiles were well reproduced using a numerical simulation that includes a depth dependent formulation of the wind-wave forced cross-reef water flow. The water residence times of the lagoon varied from 1.5 h to 3.7 h when calculated directly from the modeled current field, and from 2.0 h to 9.3 h when calculated as the time required for modeled particles to exit the lagoon. These residence times are surprisingly short and may help to explain how this reef supports high net organic production. Furthermore, the short particle residence times show the importance of analyzing currents on time scales smaller than the dominant tidal cycle to understand the fate of organic material produced in coral reefs. Accepted: 1 March 1998  相似文献   

13.
D. Daby 《Hydrobiologia》2006,556(1):47-60
The oceanography around Mauritius (in the Western Indian Ocean) remains largely unstudied, hence there is an acute scarcity of marine environmental data for management purposes. Rigorous water depth and current measurements were made on a system of grids inside Le Morne lagoon (in the south western part of Mauritius) in March–April 2000 to generate semi-quantitative models of general flow pattern in the form of contour maps using SURFER 6 computer programme. A simultaneous survey on composition of bottom cover was conducted to examine possible relationships with current speed. A separate investigation recorded surface and bottom currents prevailing amongst various habitat types to demonstrate the nature of the resulting damping effect on surface current speed. Significant correlations generated from data analysis were discussed as a basis for real biophysical relationships. Some of the limitations in the current analysis and some of the seemingly contradictory results are acknowledged and addressed in the light of the general assumption that the structure of the lagoon is conditioned by current speeds. Much stronger current speeds just outside the reef (e.g. >0.5 m s−1) than inside the lagoon (e.g. <0.32 m s−1) indicated a substantial slow-down of water current by the reef barrier. Inshore bottom currents were weaker than at the surface and current speed correlated well with water depth. Bottom and surface current directions were generally similar, i.e. going northward during flood tide and southward during ebb. The lagoon would be classified as ‘restricted’, exhibiting well-defined tidal circulation, which is modified by wind forcing. Dense fields of branching Acropora corals slowed down surface current speed by as much as 87%, but the relationship between current speed and bottom cover appears to be variable, depending on the specific location within the lagoon under consideration. The contour plots of the flow pattern model generated reasonably high qualitative modelling of spatial current speed pattern in the lagoon, with stronger currents generally along the reef areas, at the reef passes and in the deeper zones. However, these plots did not match closely those displaying distribution of bottom cover, thus confirming results obtained from pair-wise correlation tests, namely the lack of a significant relationship between current speed and bottom cover. Most of the correlations would appear to represent biological relationships, with different types of communities enabling or excluding other types. Thus, the biophysical structure of the lagoon would be driven a priori by the distribution and abundance of corals rather than current speeds, which contradicts the above hypothesis. Recurrent natural hazards subject the benthic communities to a state of ‘perpetual knock-down and recovery’. Recovery, however, can be seriously impaired by the chronic ongoing degradation of the coastal marine environment of Mauritius. An urgent review of its coastal zone management and protection strategy would be desirable for the island.  相似文献   

14.
Offshore reef systems consist of individual reefs, with spaces in between, which together constitute the reef matrix. This is the first comprehensive, large-scale study, of the influence of an offshore reef system on wave climate and wave transmission. The focus was on the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Australia, utilizing a 16-yr record of wave height from seven satellite altimeters. Within the GBR matrix, the wave climate is not strongly dependent on reef matrix submergence. This suggests that after initial wave breaking at the seaward edge of the reef matrix, wave energy that penetrates the matrix has little depth modulation. There is no clear evidence to suggest that as reef matrix porosity (ratio of spaces between individual reefs to reef area) decreases, wave attenuation increases. This is because individual reefs cast a wave shadow much larger than the reef itself; thus, a matrix of isolated reefs is remarkably effective at attenuating wave energy. This weak dependence of transmitted wave energy on depth of reef submergence, and reef matrix porosity, is also evident in the lee of the GBR matrix. Here, wave conditions appear to be dependent largely on local wind speed, rather than wave conditions either seaward, or within the reef matrix. This is because the GBR matrix is a very effective wave absorber, irrespective of water depth and reef matrix porosity.  相似文献   

15.
This study aimed to investigate the spatial structure of nocturnal fish communities at settlement on coral reefs in Moorea Island lagoon, French Polynesia; and the temporal consistency of habitat selection between winter (April to June 2001) and summer (November 2001). The Moorea lagoon was divided into 12 habitat zones (i.e., coral reef zones), which were distinct in terms of depth, wave exposure, and substratum composition. Nocturnal visual censuses among the 12 habitats found that the recently settled juveniles of 25 species recorded were dispatched among three communities spatially distributed according to the distance from the reef crest (reef crest, barrier reef, and fringing reef communities). This spatial communities structure of nocturnal juveniles was consistent in both winter and summer and would be explained primarily by a current gradient in Moorea lagoon (current speed was high near the reef crest and decreased towards the beach) and by the topographic characteristics of reef zones. Among the 25 species, 13 were recorded in both winter and summer. A comparison of the spatial distribution between summer and winter for 13 species that occurred during both seasons found that only 4 differed between the two seasons. For these species, habitat selection would be organized primarily by some stochastic processes such as inter- and intraspecific competition, predation, and food availability. Overall, the present study allowed us to highlight that most nocturnal coral reef fish juveniles at Moorea Island exhibited striking patterns in their distribution and current and topographic characteristics of reef zones might exert considerable influence on the distribution of fishes.  相似文献   

16.
A coupled three-dimensional physical-biological model was developed in order to simulate the ecological functioning and potential impacts of land-derived inputs in the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia. This model considered pelagic biogeochemical cycling of organic matter, taking into account advection and diffusion processes driven mainly by local wind fields and freshwater discharges. Modeled phytoplankton dynamics were strongly correlated with both freshwater nutrient inputs and wind-driven hydrodynamic processes, the latter resulting in a large input of oceanic water from the southeast part of the lagoon under trade wind conditions. In situ data obtained during the summer (January 1998) under trade wind conditions supported predicted concentration gradients along several coast to reef transects and provided a validation of the coupled physical-biogeochemical model. An additional sensitivity analysis showed that the alteration of the biogeochemical parameters did not strongly affect the results of the model. Freshwater inputs of nutrients were simulated using a realistic scenario corresponding to the summer rainy season of 1997–1998 in New Caledonia. Despite occasional flooding events from the main rivers considered in these simulations, no significant meso-scale phytoplankton bloom was identified. Hydrodynamically driven dispersion and rapid uptake of nutrients by phytoplankton were sufficient to spatially constrain the impact of river inputs and maintain oligotrophic conditions. The fine spatial grid of our three-dimensional model demonstrated that eutrophication in the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia is confined to the most restricted coastal embayments, while most of the lagoon experiences sustained oligotrophic conditions.  相似文献   

17.
Water movement through the framework of Davies Reef, a coral reef in the central Australian Great Barrier Reef, was studied using field and laboratory determinations of permeability, tide gauge measurements of water levels, dye tracers, and pore water chemistry. Flow is driven by current, wind-induced, or tide-induced water level differences which were shown to occur between reef front and lagoon. The reef is hydraulically very heterogeneous with bulk flow occurring through high permeability zones (voids and rubble) at a velocity on the order of 10 m/d. Pore water exchange in less permeable zones occurs at a much slower rate. Vertical components of flow are significant. Chemical data indicate that carbonate precipitation and solution occur so that porosities, permeabilities, and flow paths may change with time. Implications for nutrient transfer through the benthic sediments and for fresh water resources on reef islands are discussed.  相似文献   

18.
A comparison of Kenyan reefs of different historical and observed levels of fishing exploitation showed that more exploited reef lagoons had greater sea urchin densities and sizes, fewer and smaller fish and less coral cover. In the most exploited lagoon the biomass of the burrowing sea urchin Echinometra mathaei increased five fold during the previous 15 years. An ecological study of the three most common omnivorous sea urchin species inhabiting hard substrate within these reef lagoons (E. mathaei, Diadema savignyi and D. setosum) suggests that they are ecologically separated by predation and avoid predators and competitors by occupying different size burrows or crevices within the lagoon. Predator removal through fishing activities may result in ecological release of the sea urchins and result in competitive exclusion of weaker competitors. The most exploited reef had a nearly monospecific barren of E. mathaei living outside burrows suggesting that E. mathaei may be the top competitor. Its ecological release appears to lead to a decrease in live coral cover, increased substrate bioerosion and eventually a loss of topographic complexity, species diversity, fish biomass and utilizable fisheries productivity. Data from the outer reef edge were more difficult to interpret but may indicate similar patterns. Within this area, physical stresses such as waves and currents may be a greater controlling force in regulating fishing activities and coral reef community structure.  相似文献   

19.
In the Madang Lagoon, on the northern coast of Papua New Guinea (PNG), distinct groups of foraminifera, defined by numerical Q-mode cluster analysis of foraminiferal species occurrences, occupy four major environments and sedimentary regimes, generally aligned parallel to the coast: (1) the harbor and bay inlets, which have large fresh-water runoff and organic detrital inputs; (2) the fringing reefs along the west side of the lagoon which are influenced by coastal factors such as overhanging mangroves or fresh-water runoff; (3) the central lagoon floor which is over 50 m deep and covered with fine sand and patch reefs rising from it; and (4) the reef barrier with adjacent live coral-covered fore-reef slope and generally sandy back-reef slope. The four clusters are also mirrored in both species richness and Fisher alpha diversity analysis. Cluster 4 includes 79 species of large, thick-shelled miliolids, robust agglutinated species, calcarinids, and amphisteginids (Fisher α ≥20) that occur on the coral-rich barrier reef and back-reef. Cluster 3 has 50 species (Fisher α=8–20) and occupies the central lagoon floor. Cluster 2 has 25 or fewer species (Fisher α=2–6) and occurs on the shallow fringing reefs. Cluster 1 is the least diverse (≤7 species, Fisher α ≤2) and occurs in the harbors and bays in the mouths of larger rivers and streams. The larger, endosymbiont-bearing foraminifera (alveolinellids, soritids, amphisteginids, nummulitids, and calcarinids) generally live on the back- and fore-reef slopes and in the lagoon, avoid the organic-rich coastal and harbor habitats, and preferentially dwell in well-lit environments to the bottom of the lagoon. The river mouths and bays are unusual for reef systems because of their high organic content, which creates low-oxygen and nutrient-rich conditions. Here the foraminiferal fauna is dominated by only a few and, for the most part, particularly thin-shelled and highly fragile species. Each faunal group contains a number of numerically abundant indicator species that do not occur in other faunal clusters. This implies low horizontal transport rates within the reef and lagoon complex and signifies that faunal mixing among the cluster groups is limited. Foraminiferal death assemblages may thus be autochthonous and retain information regarding the original community structure. They may also preserve environmental information useful in paleoecological studies and they are good ecological indicators of reef and lagoon habitats.  相似文献   

20.
Morphological and photosynthetic performance were analyzed in species of the genus Caulerpa from an exposed coral reef and a sheltered reef lagoon. Morphological characters, such as distance between modules, number of modules, stolon branches and rhizoid clusters per centimeter of stolon, indicated a uniformity among species within a specific habitat. "Guerilla," or diffusive, growth forms were characteristic for lagoon species and "phalanx," or compact, growth forms for reef species. Differences in photosynthesis were found between Caulerpa species. Sun-tolerant species were found on the reef, and both sun- and shade-tolerant species were present in the lagoon. In the lagoon, shade-tolerant species, such as C. lanuginosa J. Agardh, were found growing in the understory, and sun-tolerant species, such as C. paspaloides (Bory) Greville, formed the canopy. C. cupressoides (West in Vahl) C. Agardh was the only species found in both environments; it showed higher photosynthetic rates and a compressed morphology when growing on the reef and lower photosynthetic rates and expanded morphology for lagoonal ramets. These results suggest that C. cupressoides possesses a broad phenotypic ability to acclimate to lagoonal and reef settings in comparison to other Caulerpa species, enhancing its ecological success in this particular system.  相似文献   

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